General Organics -

I have been trying to look around and find posts on the General Organics nutrient line-up but they are few and far between, and then when I do find some they get off topic real fast. So, I thought I would try to start a new thread but with a little bit different of a subject. I am wondering how everyone that uses these nutrients, uses them. Does everyone follow the Feed Chart provided with them, or does anyone go by PPM instead? I have noticed that if you go by their printed Schedule the nutrients PPM will be pretty low, like below 500ppm almost every time. I have read all over, in many different books and other growers comments, that with much of the grow cycle you will be using over 900 and even 1000pmm, with some people even talking about using 1500ppm or more. So 500ppm with the General Organics line-up seems pretty low, and I have only been using these nutrients for a couple of plants now and I cannot seem to get them dialed in during Flower. It doesn't seem to matter if I under-feed, follow the chart exactly, or over-feed....my plants always seem to go real shitty during flowering with these nutrients and I can't figure out what the F*** is going on. I still have enough nutrients to do like 6 more plants, and I only do 2 at a time in a little tent in my bedroom, so if I can't start to find out why I keep having the exact same problems every time in Flower mode with these nutrients with in my next 3 cycles then I am done with them. Like I said, I have tried quite a few different ways of how much to feed these things but always run into problems in Flower, they look amazing all through out Veg but turn crappy about 2 weeks into Flower and keep going down hill from there.

So, let's get a little Discussion going with all the General Organics users out there. How does everyone use them? What kind of soil or mix do you use? How do you start with them? Do you use half of what the printed schedule says at first and then work up to what it says, or do you work up to the Heavy Feeding amounts Printed on the bottles? Or do you ignore the Schedule and go by the PPM? Do you use them for every watering, or once a week with a non-nutrient watering in between? Or do you do a Feed - Feed - Water Schedule all the way through? Do you use all of the nutrients and additives or just the CaMg, Grow, and Bloom? Do you put CaMg in your non-nutrient waterings if using R/O water? Do you do a flush after the Veg cycle when switching to the Flowering schedule? Do you even need to do a flush at all, either during or at the end, since they are "organics"? *As long as they are not used too excessively I mean* Does anyone Foilar Feed with them, if so, with what and how much of it? Do you pH your solution before using or not? *I know the company says you don't need to, and I haven't since I have been using them, but I keep having problems with them so I am wondering if anyone does do it and if it has hurt or helped their crops* Are there any other products that you like to mix in to your solution outside of the General Organics line-up? I am starting to run dry on things to to ask so if anyone can think of anything they want to add or whatever, go for it. In the meantime, let's see if we can get some posts going, I'm sure I can't be the only person looking for better answers than what have already been posted in other forums and threads.
 

CosbyKryptonite

New Member
I originally bought the General Organics "GO BOX" and used it on my last four grows with Pro-Mix BX and doubled the application rates on the box, which is the same as the instructions for heavy feeding on the bottles.
I have had decent success with them.
I began preparing the Pro-mix by adding 20% (by volume) worm castings. I would then prepare the Diamond Black according to the instructions and saturate the mix to a degree suitable for transplanting. My routine was feed-water-water/molasses-feed . I did not flush prior to flowering. Just followed the instructions for "transition week four" but used 2 tsp each Grow and Bloom instead of straight Bloom. That just seemed like more of a "transition" to me. I definitely suggest flushing at least a week before harvest. I mean geeze, the shit smells like a carps asshole, I don't want to know how it tastes. I would flush when using any fertilizer IMO. However, now I have moved to Flora Nova because im poor and and my buddy gave it to me. I think "organic" tastes better but im not gonna be a big hippie about it. So far it seems to be working well. but i still use the bio root and cal mag.
I'm not sure as to the details but some folks argue that they're not truly organic due to how the ingredients are derived. That's what the guy at my grow shop told me.
I sure would like to hear others experiences with GO and agree that this thread is long overdue.
 

justugh

Well-Known Member
they are great for soil ....or DWC

do not use them with anything that has a pump and filter it will clog since well squid is not ment to go tho a filter 20 times


depends on the plant strain u are growing i have autos.......they only like 1/4 to 1/2 the str so far the system has worrked great for me the rooting i use 1 ml of this almost every watering and the diamond black ......my ph was floating at 7 for 2 weeks finally it hit 6.0 6.5 with 3 feedings of that stuff

i have also been using Co2 water with my feedings ...............the Co2 seems to keep the surface of the dirt from getting hard and 1 feeding of co2 3 days later i checked the plant that got it was 2 cms taller then the one that got just the water nurtient mix
 

CosbyKryptonite

New Member
They claim that it is already ph balanced and that adjustments are not necessary. I didn't use a ph tester, just mixed with store bought distilled water by the gallon. No problem. Strain was Power Kush from Dinafem which has always been a mediocre performer to say the least no matter what nutrient regiment I utilize.
 
Hey guys, ok heres the deal. These nutrients are semi*organic and is the reason for your low ppm count when your mixxing a batch up for the girls, only conductive solids will make ppm rise, you will never get a true reading of organic nutrients on a ppm meter. Also they say not to ph your nutrients because they assume your medium is ph buffered with lime and a soild colony of bennys and fungi which do the job of balancing the soils ph, the problem is they dont tell people that and people dont truly understand organics so what happens when your plants turn to shit is almost always this.........you have an organic soil but have been watering with tap water that kills the microbeastie life in your soil everytime you water .....well thats like taking the ph buffer out of the mix if you will because those are the little guys that feed on the organic matter and keep the ph in check......sooooo with all the microbes dead you poor in your nutrients on feeding day that are really acidic (like 5.0) and there are no microbes to "fix" the ph and then your screwed ....now your soil ph is around 5.0 mabey even lower with no way for it to balance out, then you start to get ph lockout and nutrient problems....plants start to yellow , leaves twist vains get brown spots and if not fixxed death comes soon after.....so when growing organic make sure your soil microbes are alive and kickin and you have some lime or lots of microbes. Hope that helps
 

fuih8u

Member
I have been trying to look around and find posts on the General Organics nutrient line-up but they are few and far between, and then when I do find some they get off topic real fast. So, I thought I would try to start a new thread but with a little bit different of a subject. I am wondering how everyone that uses these nutrients, uses them. Does everyone follow the Feed Chart provided with them, or does anyone go by PPM instead? I have noticed that if you go by their printed Schedule the nutrients PPM will be pretty low, like below 500ppm almost every time. I have read all over, in many different books and other growers comments, that with much of the grow cycle you will be using over 900 and even 1000pmm, with some people even talking about using 1500ppm or more. So 500ppm with the General Organics line-up seems pretty low, and I have only been using these nutrients for a couple of plants now and I cannot seem to get them dialed in during Flower. It doesn't seem to matter if I under-feed, follow the chart exactly, or over-feed....my plants always seem to go real shitty during flowering with these nutrients and I can't figure out what the F*** is going on. I still have enough nutrients to do like 6 more plants, and I only do 2 at a time in a little tent in my bedroom, so if I can't start to find out why I keep having the exact same problems every time in Flower mode with these nutrients with in my next 3 cycles then I am done with them. Like I said, I have tried quite a few different ways of how much to feed these things but always run into problems in Flower, they look amazing all through out Veg but turn crappy about 2 weeks into Flower and keep going down hill from there.

I have had this exact same problem. Things do good during veg for a couple months but a couple weeks into flower they start to lose their leaves and fall over on their own weight (with no buds really at this point). The dried bud is airy and not dense.
Recently I have started doubling the nutrients. This seems to be helping but its too early to tell. I use RO water so I have always doubled up on the cal mag.
How'd your grow turn out?
 

GreenSummit

Active Member
week 4-5 for me usually looks like this: (for non supersoil plants, as i do both methods)

3ml protekt
15-20 ml biothrive bloom
9-10 ml CaMg+
5ml BioBud
12 ml fish emulsion 5-1-1
10ml florablend

for my transition from veg to flower they get veg nutes the whole first week of flower.

3ml Protekt
15-20ml BioThrive Grow
7-9ml CaMg+ depending
10ml BioRoot
5ml BioWeed
10-12ml fish emulsion 5-1-1

*i use RO water and I never pH anything. I use a mix of cheap ProMix (the orange bag) with some humus, mushroom compost, EWC's, azomite and lime. I found I had a lot of problems with yellowing and low nitrogen in flower before i replaced their BioMarine with a 5-1-1 fish emulsion, it made a huge difference for me. I also was having problems before I began mixing azomite in with my soil. I think these are better nutes for soil than soiless, but thats just my experience.

hope this helps. i have been using these nutes for almost a year now. shoot me a pm if you have more specific questions.
 

GreenSummit

Active Member
also if you use peat it is pointless to use the diamond black, as peat breaks down into the same acids over time. so much damn hype in the nute world.
 
Hey guys, ok heres the deal. These nutrients are semi*organic and is the reason for your low ppm count when your mixxing a batch up for the girls, only conductive solids will make ppm rise, you will never get a true reading of organic nutrients on a ppm meter. Also they say not to ph your nutrients because they assume your medium is ph buffered with lime and a soild colony of bennys and fungi which do the job of balancing the soils ph, the problem is they dont tell people that and people dont truly understand organics so what happens when your plants turn to shit is almost always this.........you have an organic soil but have been watering with tap water that kills the microbeastie life in your soil everytime you water .....well thats like taking the ph buffer out of the mix if you will because those are the little guys that feed on the organic matter and keep the ph in check......sooooo with all the microbes dead you poor in your nutrients on feeding day that are really acidic (like 5.0) and there are no microbes to "fix" the ph and then your screwed ....now your soil ph is around 5.0 mabey even lower with no way for it to balance out, then you start to get ph lockout and nutrient problems....plants start to yellow , leaves twist vains get brown spots and if not fixxed death comes soon after.....so when growing organic make sure your soil microbes are alive and kickin and you have some lime or lots of microbes. Hope that helps
this is exactly what happened to me with go 4.5ph in starting water of 7.1 i dont see why my soil shouldnt be alive ffof added moist worm c.,alaska humus, powdered humus, green sand, zho then act tea and it sits for a month, it maybe because there 1 gal plants and this much soil wont buffer it, i still think it needs phing or allot of oystershell powder, adding extra dolomite has caused issues
 

MrRobbyRob

Well-Known Member
Well unlike many others, I've been using GO for about 1 1/2 years, feeding according to the chart (with every watering) and I've had my best harvests using it. I typically grow in soil or promix, whatever my local shop has, I use tap water, and I definitely do not adjust the PH. My only issue with it is my wife doesn't like the smell- although I don't mind it. The only other nutrients I've really given a fair try to was Roots Organic, which I also liked, but had a couple of issues with it. (In fairness, it may have been me, nor the Roots) as I was fairly inexperienced at the time. I've also used super soil, but when misused, you can really fry a plant! At any rate, the GO is a good product in my book. I feel I may give hempy a try and go full synthetic, as I tire of constantly fighting fungus gnats and the like, but I would recommend GO to anyone looking to keep it pretty easy...
 

efc

New Member
Just done a organic grow,I used biobizz allmix soil n'biobizz grow/bloom,even tho blooms not omir,it still organic,I started giving nutes at 1/4 stengtnt,afta 3 weeks,n I ph every think even tho they say don't,just fed water,den nutes,den water etc,I still giv grow up to 5/6 weeksinto flower,as well of bloom of cause,same as the grow just build up slow,like they say more is less,mix nutes in same container also,I kept my last plant in a 7 n' a half liter pot,got 35 g dry ,I fed em 2 n'half liters of water/nutes every 3/4 days,also insted of doin a strate flush,leech insted,I'm gonna be using fish mix for part veg,bat quano n mollasses part flower also on next grow,all biobizz products.wotks for me,using seeds also.
 

wood780

Well-Known Member
with the go box how soon should i start feeding the seedlings im growing in promix with a little organic worm castings added
 

MrRobbyRob

Well-Known Member
"imo" perhaps it is a waste of money, however, when I can harvest a pound off of $400 in electricity and $120 in nutrients, its all sort of relative, you know? The ease of use, the fact I don't have to brew or bubble or check PH, makes me think the $7.50 or so I spend per ounce on nutrients the least of my worries... My time, frankly, is worth more than that...
 

Positivity

Well-Known Member
I've grown with all kinds of stuff. I like general organics, works well for me. I'd love to have some comfrey or nettles outside but none available right now.

this is my take on general organics. The feeding schedule didn't work at all for me.

In soil...if r/o water calmag at 2 tsp
In veg
5ml grow
5ml bloom
tbl molasses or sugar product (took health to next level)

that simple recipe can grow them very healthy. At this strength if your soil is hot you can burn the plants, just feed a little at a time and note plants reaction. If it's not hot a every other watering scheme works well.

in flower
5ml grow (plants will yellow without grow)
5ml bloom
2ml bloombastic (GO benefits greatly from a bloom booster, your choice of which one)
1 tbl molasses/sugar

The only trick to flower with the GO line I find is when to change the ratio a little. At roughly halfway, longer on long flowering strains, cut out the grow and double the bloom to 10ml. The plant will begin a slow fade noticeable in about a week.

In coco the only difference is you need to feed more often. Still giving plain water breaks as the plant needs. Or you can water with runoff, keeping the ppm in the coco at a steady level. That leads to really explosive growth in my experience, especially when aerated for a day first. Might not be standard issue organic tea but the results speak for themselves. Personally I don't bubble anymore, it works good enough without.

I've used just GO with no boosters and harvested without a flush. Still burns clean and high quality just not as swelled up. With boosters a 2 week flush or you may get some black ash and coughers.


Anyways thats my take on GO. I've used fox farm, flora nova, supersoil, recycled soil, gh salts, dyna grow, guanos, etc. Never tried canna, wish I could, it probably is the best. GO is some good shit..

Hope it helps a little..
 

Cannabadass

Member
Just thought I'd chime in about the RO water. I know this is an old thread but one thing the community has definitely figured out is that if you use RO water YOU MUST REMINERALIZE WITH Cal Mag to 200ppm. Then add any Cal Mag called for in your recipe to that. You must remineralize your RO water. This hit so many of my friends and myself who thought they would try RO and we had nothing but problems until we figured this out.
 

since1991

Well-Known Member
I have been trying to look around and find posts on the General Organics nutrient line-up but they are few and far between, and then when I do find some they get off topic real fast. So, I thought I would try to start a new thread but with a little bit different of a subject. I am wondering how everyone that uses these nutrients, uses them. Does everyone follow the Feed Chart provided with them, or does anyone go by PPM instead? I have noticed that if you go by their printed Schedule the nutrients PPM will be pretty low, like below 500ppm almost every time. I have read all over, in many different books and other growers comments, that with much of the grow cycle you will be using over 900 and even 1000pmm, with some people even talking about using 1500ppm or more. So 500ppm with the General Organics line-up seems pretty low, and I have only been using these nutrients for a couple of plants now and I cannot seem to get them dialed in during Flower. It doesn't seem to matter if I under-feed, follow the chart exactly, or over-feed....my plants always seem to go real shitty during flowering with these nutrients and I can't figure out what the F*** is going on. I still have enough nutrients to do like 6 more plants, and I only do 2 at a time in a little tent in my bedroom, so if I can't start to find out why I keep having the exact same problems every time in Flower mode with these nutrients with in my next 3 cycles then I am done with them. Like I said, I have tried quite a few different ways of how much to feed these things but always run into problems in Flower, they look amazing all through out Veg but turn crappy about 2 weeks into Flower and keep going down hill from there.

So, let's get a little Discussion going with all the General Organics users out there. How does everyone use them? What kind of soil or mix do you use? How do you start with them? Do you use half of what the printed schedule says at first and then work up to what it says, or do you work up to the Heavy Feeding amounts Printed on the bottles? Or do you ignore the Schedule and go by the PPM? Do you use them for every watering, or once a week with a non-nutrient watering in between? Or do you do a Feed - Feed - Water Schedule all the way through? Do you use all of the nutrients and additives or just the CaMg, Grow, and Bloom? Do you put CaMg in your non-nutrient waterings if using R/O water? Do you do a flush after the Veg cycle when switching to the Flowering schedule? Do you even need to do a flush at all, either during or at the end, since they are "organics"? *As long as they are not used too excessively I mean* Does anyone Foilar Feed with them, if so, with what and how much of it? Do you pH your solution before using or not? *I know the company says you don't need to, and I haven't since I have been using them, but I keep having problems with them so I am wondering if anyone does do it and if it has hurt or helped their crops* Are there any other products that you like to mix in to your solution outside of the General Organics line-up? I am starting to run dry on things to to ask so if anyone can think of anything they want to add or whatever, go for it. In the meantime, let's see if we can get some posts going, I'm sure I can't be the only person looking for better answers than what have already been posted in other forums and threads.
Organic nutrients are near impossible to get an accurate electrical conductivity (TDS) reading. What the ppm's say or suggested is off...way off. Just go with tue chart mixing. Dont even bother with taking a tds reading.
 
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