Geyapex LM-P4 Unboxing and Under the Hood

Heya Rollitup. I received my test unit from Geyapex today and wanted to show off a bit, especially "under the hood".

So, here's how it came, less the top foam:

http://imgur.com/Q8bx1Z7

Nicely packed, there was even a small hole in the box and it didn't even come close to the unit.

Now, here's the money shot:

http://imgur.com/wupjciZ

Literally the cleanest manufacture I've seen from made-in-china lights. I've nitpicked a few things, but it's significantly better than many DIY jobs - exactly like you'd expect from a good manufacturer.

Most importantly, here's the driver, a genuine Mean Well:

http://imgur.com/6NnInal

This is usually the first corner to get cut on lights like this, so it's good to see that Geyapex didn't try to save money with no-name drivers.


Here's some close ups of the other internals:

A close-up of the heatsink:

http://imgur.com/kUWHWbL

Close up of the lens assembly (retaining ring off)

http://imgur.com/4NC89An

And several shots of the wiring:

http://imgur.com/HQxQxni

Separate fan driver, clean wiring to all components.

http://imgur.com/GyOHqNH

http://imgur.com/C3cDynI

And finally, the COB:

http://imgur.com/TVUq4LS

a little excess thermal paste, but it's of the graphite/carbon type (good!) and is very securely mounted.



Overall I give the build quality a 9.5/10.

I'll be happy to answer any questions too.


Also, here's a link to the full album with my comments:

https://imgur.com/a/8z9tl

The brown and blue wire coming from your driver connect to a red and black wire with a quick splice. On the red and black side the insulation has been stripped to far back and leaves the wire exposed. You need to cover the exposed wire or cut the wire back to the correct length. If this comes into contact with a metal piece you could short your light.

ichabod crane said:

The brown and blue wire coming from your driver connect to a red and black wire with a quick splice. On the red and black side the insulation has been stripped to far back and leaves the wire exposed. You need to cover the exposed wire or cut the wire back to the correct length. If this comes into contact with a metal piece you could short your light.

Click to expand...

I saw that too but it's my bad, not Geyapex's. I'd moved the splice when taking a picture and it pulled just a hair.

It's not really possible for that to contact metal even as pictured, 1mm is exposed and the heat sinks are too distant for anything to touch

is the chassis properly grounded?

Why isnt the driver earth connected? Why is there exposed wire ? Messy wiring tucked under the driver? what a mess.

As others have said the wiring is a little sloppy but not the end of the world for someone capable of cleaning that up providing the unit is sold at the right price. If being sold as a premium priced product then it would be a bit of a piss take.
My biggest concern would be heat. I may be being over cautious here but I would have liked to have seen a fan over each heat-sink rather than 2 centrally placed fans for 4 cobs. I bet they create a fair amount of noise as well.
Again possibly not the end of the world if the unit is sold at the right price. All the niggles I have with this I could personally put right quite easily if the unit is not being sold for an absorbent amount.

CobKits said:

is the chassis properly grounded?

Click to expand...

Yes it is, the ground from the wall is connected to the casing by the yellow-green wire leading to the exhaust fan mounting screw.

key4 said:

Why isnt the driver earth connected? Why is there exposed wire ? Messy wiring tucked under the driver? what a mess.

Click to expand...

The ground from the wall connects to the chassis/case and the driver is mounted to the case. Because the driver's enclosure is also conductive and attached to ground, no further grounding is required.

It's something to nit-pick over, but not vital. If you look inside fixtures from other light manufacturers, the no-name drivers don't even have a ground and the steel casing is directly connected to ground.

As for the rest, the slightly exposed wires from the driver was caused by me moving the wiring to check it all out, not from the factory.

I guarantee you that you use appliances in your day to day life (for years) that look a lot like this inside.

kushedy said:

My biggest concern would be heat. I may be being over cautious here but I would have liked to have seen a fan over each heat-sink rather than 2 centrally placed fans for 4 cobs. I bet they create a fair amount of noise as well.
Again possibly not the end of the world if the unit is sold at the right price. All the niggles I have with this I could personally put right quite easily if the unit is not being sold for an absorbent amount.

Click to expand...

The fans do create some noise for sure, can't really hear it over my exhaust fan though. I'm a legal medical grower and my tent is not in my bedroom, so it's a non-issue for me. Its in the same neighborhood as the noise from my Mars 300s.

I definitely understand the concern about the fans being located away from the sinks though. In the short time I had it running yesterday (~1hr) it didn't get warmer than my passively cooled Vero fixture. I plan to keep an eye on the temperatures, though I don't have a contactless thermometer so can't give accurate measures.

I can't speak for the cost - I didn't pay for the light, only shipping.

A lot of people were skeptical of this light. Glad to see you have a thread on it!
@whytewidow

I will have a thread up shortly for the LM-P6, I had it running full blast and temps were a non issue after 12 hours. These things are super bright! Can't wait to see what it can do. Only issue so far is that it is very heavy for my flimsy tent but the yoyo hangers includes can definitely do the job.

It looks like a nice piece of hardware and all, but isn't this just more of the same? Arent there a half dozen fixtures very similar to this line already out there, at similar price points?

I'm not looking to pick a flght here, just curious what sets this light apart from the others?

Doctor Derp said:

It looks like a nice piece of hardware and all, but isn't this just more of the same? Arent there a half dozen fixtures very similar to this line already out there, at similar price points?

I'm not looking to pick a flght here, just curious what sets this light apart from the others?

Click to expand...

As with anything, there is always competitors. At first glance it appears much better constructed then the amazon ones and certainly most mars units. Price point for the LM-P6 is roughly 380 usd with shipping and it pulls 364 watts from the wall. I think these will fit perfectly for someone who can't afford the best of the best but don't want a shitty blurple which are in the same price range...time will tell though

DankBudzzz said:

As with anything, there is always competitors. At first glance it appears much better constructed then the amazon ones and certainly most mars units. Price point for the LM-P6 is roughly 380 usd with shipping and it pulls 364 watts from the wall. I think these will fit perfectly for someone who can't afford the best of the best but don't want a shitty blurple which are in the same price range...time will tell though

Click to expand...

The hlg 240 is a 250 watt driver right? So almost 120 watts running those 2 fans, eek!

Doctor Derp said:

It looks like a nice piece of hardware and all, but isn't this just more of the same? Arent there a half dozen fixtures very similar to this line already out there, at similar price points?

I'm not looking to pick a flght here, just curious what sets this light apart from the others?

Click to expand...

I'm on the same train of thought as DankBudzzz - a more expensive fixture or decent DIY fixture will outperform the LM-P4 I received.

The construction is definitely superior to a Mars/Roledro light and the cost is not really all that high in comparison for the better quality.

dbrn32 said:

The hlg 240 is a 250 watt driver right? So almost 120 watts running those 2 fans, eek!

Click to expand...

Yeah, it has a 250W max output, but the fans don't run off of it. There's a separate transformer (black box between the fans and power connections) that converts the AC input to 12V 800ma DC. This will be the same DC transformer used in the LM-P6 as there's 3 fan connects.

ZeroTrousers said:

I'm on the same train of thought as DankBudzzz - a more expensive fixture or decent DIY fixture will outperform the LM-P4 I received.

The construction is definitely superior to a Mars/Roledro light and the cost is not really all that high in comparison for the better quality.



Yeah, it has a 250W max output, but the fans don't run off of it. There's a separate transformer (black box between the fans and power connections) that converts the AC input to 12V 800ma DC. This will be the same DC transformer used in the LM-P6 as there's 3 fan connects.

Click to expand...

Ya, but you said 360+ from the wall right? We're in agreement that the driver is 250 watts max, and it's what 95% efficient?

It's probably more like 200 watts to the cobs, 10-20 watts driver loss, and we'll call it close to 150 watts for the fans.....

No thanks!

dbrn32 said:

Ya, but you said 360+ from the wall right? We're in agreement that the driver is 250 watts max, and it's what 95% efficient?

It's probably more like 200 watts to the cobs, 10-20 watts driver loss, and we'll call it close to 150 watts for the fans.....

No thanks!

Click to expand...

DankBudzzz has the LM-P6, which drives 6 COBs each at around 50W, plus 3 fans on a separate transformer and then there's the efficiency loss for the driver. That makes up for 360ish watts at the wall pretty easily

I've got the LM-P4 which has only 4 cobs, I would expect it to draw 220-240 watts at the wall (won't be able to put a kill-a-watt on it till this weekend).

It does make sense

ZeroTrousers said:

DankBudzzz has the LM-P6, which drives 6 COBs each at around 50W, plus 3 fans on a separate transformer and then there's the efficiency loss for the driver. That makes up for 360ish watts at the wall pretty easily

I've got the LM-P4 which has only 4 cobs, I would expect it to draw 220-240 watts at the wall (won't be able to put a kill-a-watt on it till this weekend).

It does make sense

Click to expand...

Yep, I missed that lol. Sorry!

Makes more sense, and sounds reasonable now.

To me it's still not worth 120 bucks to pay for shipping. I bet it doesn't produce yield. It's from overseas. And an American company said they were shady as fuck. And they booted them. That was enough for me. But good luck with it.

im 99% sure the HLGs are NOT case grounded apart from the 4 hex-looking spots on the bottom. ill throw a meter on one in a bit.

light is ok but if i wanted one of those id prob hit up @Rahz

at least you know youre getting top bin and solid safe build quality

i cant say im too down with the semi-passive cooling. most designs like this crank the case fans right onto the heatsinks for good turbulent airflow