bullisok
Well-Known Member
because i want them to be able to be turn on and off different colors, so like in the last half of flower i can turn the royal blues off and turn on 24 deep reds.
Growmau5's BML Spydr clone: a diy led build
- Thread starter Growmau5
- Start date
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Okay, in this case you need a 48v driver.
This is a part of the pdf you will found below:
"The LDD driver has a minimum voltage drop of 3V to function properly. This means if the input is 45VDC, the maximum voltage output is 45VDC-3VDC = 42VDC. The output voltage going to an LED string connected to an LDD must be greater than 2V and less than 52V."
Also make sure the LEDs are proper isolated from the frame. This chinese 1w/3w pcbs are often not isolated and can easily make trouble if they get contact to the frame. Thermal pads are a good
This is a part of the pdf you will found below:
"The LDD driver has a minimum voltage drop of 3V to function properly. This means if the input is 45VDC, the maximum voltage output is 45VDC-3VDC = 42VDC. The output voltage going to an LED string connected to an LDD must be greater than 2V and less than 52V."
Also make sure the LEDs are proper isolated from the frame. This chinese 1w/3w pcbs are often not isolated and can easily make trouble if they get contact to the frame. Thermal pads are a good
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bullisok
Well-Known Member
Thanks man thats what i thought and yes all my diodes are from UK and have the thermal stickers on them and the driver i was looking at getting for them is the LRS-100-48.
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BarefootBud
Member
I realize I'm behind. Took years off and now I come back to this!
Took awhile to kinda find my way around. See what was new and improved.
I have no doctorate, no experience with electronics but I am a science nut and have found the new technology so very exciting!!
I understand the McCree curve, the light wavelengths and how that relates to the Kelvin scale of light temperature. How 'white light' is actually 'the whole visible light spectrum' , so the whiter the light, the more 400-700nm wavelengths are represented. Just need to enhance what the current 'white' lights output as far as spectrum.
Now that Fluence (and others) have now added IR and UV as well as a smattering more green and yellow to fill in the spectrum, I'm chomping at the bit to build a light with a few IR, and UV in the ranges closest to the visible spectrum. All 3v LEDs
2-2700K – 3000K, 1-3500K – 4100K, 2-5000K – 6500K, fill in the far ends of the Kelvin scale with colored LEDs. Some in the 385-450nm range, some in the 650-750nm range with the IR and UV finishing it off.
Even several groups or 'cobs' of LEDs made up of the lights mentioned. The white LEDs 1000ma, colored 700ma, uv/ir 350ma. Just throwing sh*t out there.
Trying to follow your tutorials here and on YouTube but am stuck trying to decide if I should make the drivers all constant voltage, DC input and output then power them all from a main power supply?
I realize your a busy guy, but , IMHO, you are the most knowledgeable person I've run across concerning this subject, @Growmau5 !
Took awhile to kinda find my way around. See what was new and improved.
I have no doctorate, no experience with electronics but I am a science nut and have found the new technology so very exciting!!
I understand the McCree curve, the light wavelengths and how that relates to the Kelvin scale of light temperature. How 'white light' is actually 'the whole visible light spectrum' , so the whiter the light, the more 400-700nm wavelengths are represented. Just need to enhance what the current 'white' lights output as far as spectrum.
Now that Fluence (and others) have now added IR and UV as well as a smattering more green and yellow to fill in the spectrum, I'm chomping at the bit to build a light with a few IR, and UV in the ranges closest to the visible spectrum. All 3v LEDs
2-2700K – 3000K, 1-3500K – 4100K, 2-5000K – 6500K, fill in the far ends of the Kelvin scale with colored LEDs. Some in the 385-450nm range, some in the 650-750nm range with the IR and UV finishing it off.
Even several groups or 'cobs' of LEDs made up of the lights mentioned. The white LEDs 1000ma, colored 700ma, uv/ir 350ma. Just throwing sh*t out there.
Trying to follow your tutorials here and on YouTube but am stuck trying to decide if I should make the drivers all constant voltage, DC input and output then power them all from a main power supply?
I realize your a busy guy, but , IMHO, you are the most knowledgeable person I've run across concerning this subject, @Growmau5 !
