Help a girl choosing quantum board/driver

[Green.Lady]

I dont undersand this, the meanwell elg240 have 240w, i want to run 2 qb at 1750mah, how you guys say its 100w per board?

 

[bakedPotatoe]

Nope, there has been no proof. Just a screenshot of a text of someone claiming it was the board they made for HLG even though it doesn't look at all like any HLG board...

Maybe because they cant make it like HLG boards because of legal reasons wow....
The force left you along time ago by the looks...

 

[Prawn Connery]

I cant use the elg 240 1750mah for 2 of this boards right ? Each board have 69.6V x2=139.2 and the other board they make are 68v x2 =136 and the driver have 137v max lol tight fit

OK, so each LM561C diode has a maximum rating of 3V @ 200mA, which is 0.6W (3V x 0.200A = 0.6W).

But for each drop in current there is also a small drop in voltage.

So for example, if you run them at half current, which is 100mA, then the voltage drops to 2.85V. Your diode is now using 2.85V x 0.100A = 0.285W

Do you see how even though it is exactly half the current, the diode is using less than half the power (W)?

There is a scale on the LED datasheet here on page 23 (Forward Current vs Forward Voltage) that shows you this relationship, which is where I am getting my figures from: http://www.samsung.com/global/business/business-images/led/file/product/products/201607/Data_Sheet_LM561C_Rev.7.0.pdf

Based on that LM561C datasheet, your boards are maximum rated at 72V @ 2800mA for 201.6W.

This is based on 24S x 14P or (24S x 3V) x (14P x 0.2A) = 201.6W

But here is where things get interesting: you said your boards were rated 69.6V @ 2100mA, which is 75% of max. But at 75% max, you board should be rated at about 70.2V (24 x 2.925).

So, it looks like the information you have been given maybe slightly incorrect.

 

[Shawndeadhead]

I dont undersand this, the meanwell elg240 have 240w, i want to run 2 qb at 1750mah, how you guys say its 100w per board?

Your wanting to run 3 boards at 100w each ?
Get the Meanwell HLG-320
But if your serious about building your own light go on to YouTube
And check out Growmau5 his early first videos will explain everything about mAh (miliamp hours) V(volts) all the other stuff you don't have a grasp on.
Not to be rude but I already see it happening here, I won't be a jerk and point out which ones, but you have already been given horrible advice in these posts. Everyone sees a pretty girl and gets some rush thinking they are going to help you and some of it's going to set you back. You saw my lights (I built those after watching a ton of growmau5 videos) you saw my plants what would I know right lol. Seriously though check out his channel
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPSwmwj8ZLXObtBJmz-76rw

 

[Prawn Connery]

I dont undersand this, the meanwell elg240 have 240w, i want to run 2 qb at 1750mah, how you guys say its 100w per board?

It's very confusing, but if you go to the ELG-240-C datasheet, you will see the ELG series is rated at 240w using 200-305V mains, but is derated to 180W for 100-180V mains.

In most of Europe you have 220V mains, so you can get the full 240W. In the US they have 110V mains, so can only get 180W.

ELG datasheet here: http://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=ELG-240-C

This restriction doesn't apply to the HLG series drivers.

The ELG-240-C1750 is max rated at 137V

The HLG-240-H1750 is max rated at 143V

If you use the ELG driver and two boards in series, then divide 137V by 2 = 68.5V for each board. Then divide that by 24 (24 diodes in series) = 2.85V per diode.

When each diode is supplied 2.85V (have a look at the Samsung datasheet), then it is limited to about 105mA. Multiply this by 14 (14 series in parallel) = 1470mA per board. Multiply this by 68.5V = 100.7W per board.

The HLG-240-H1750 will not limit your voltage, because at full power it will be drawing just over 69V per board for a total of 138V, or just over 120W per board for 240W total.

In reality, you will get more than 240W out of a HLG-240 driver, as they have been tested at up to 260W.

Randomblame has made a good suggestion and you will get much better results with 2x HLG-240 drivers than only one.

 

[Prawn Connery]

Your wanting to run 3 boards at 100w each ?

She didn't say that.

Not to be rude but I already see it happening here, I won't be a jerk and point out which ones, but you have already been given horrible advice in these posts. Everyone sees a pretty girl and gets some rush thinking they are going to help you and some of it's going to set you back.

It's not that at all. She started a thread and a few people immediately started rubbishing her choice of board instead of actually addressing her question.

If she wants to use the boards, that's her choice. If she wants to use one or two drivers, 240 or 320, that's her choice. Those who have been trying to help have merely crunched the numbers to offer suggestions that fit in with her plans.

If you think she should be building COBs instead of boards or strips, then by all means, put a proposal together, cost it, and maybe it will be even better than what she has planned.

Me? I built strip lights with a couple of HLG-240s because that was the most cost-efficient option I could come up with based on where I live and what my requirements were. I've already been through all this and am sharing what I've learned.

you have already been given horrible advice in these posts

We've all got thick skin here. What's the horrible advice, and what would you suggest is better?

 

[Randomblame]

just so you're aware, A type drivers are dimmable as well, they have a built in potentiometer on the driver you can dim with a small screwdriver. A type drivers are also able to turn up higher than the wattage displayed and B drivers are not.

my 2x HLG-320 can turn up to almost 700 watts, if you had 2x HLG-320 B drivers your max would be 640

You make a good point but I can not fully agree here.
If you let the dimming circuit(blue and white wire) open B-series goes also above the ratings. Like you can see on the screenie below, the output can be up to 108%. This means a simple two pole switch next to the dimmer poti could be used to switch the dimming function on and off and use the drivers full potential.
Most b-drivers I've tested are between 105 and 106%, I'm pretty sure a HLG-320H-Cxxxxb can go up to 340w with open dimmer circuit.

 

[Randomblame]

What about the ELG-240 series?

I agree about the HLG-240 series - I've got three of them now. 1 for veg and 2 for flowering (cheaper than a HLG-480).

I like the ELG series because one could use the dimmer to switch the driver completely off. This is useful if you plan to use an arduino controller because you do not need separate relays to switch the light off.

I did recommend the HLG series simply because of it's better effiency (94% vs. 93%) and they match better with two of these 70v boards because of the slightly higher vf.

 

[Green.Lady]

@Prawn Connery thanks very mutch for explaining all this stuff i guess you trying to burn the rest of my brains lolol and your are right about the info of the board, was slighty wrong, i was talking with the salesman and have news about the boards and this is actualy the most accurated
1.pcb size 305mm*355mm
2.volts 67.2v
3. Max current 2800
4. Watts 160w
5. Circuit 24 series 14 parallel

That means i can use elg 240 1750mah right ?

Thanks you have been very helpfull

 

[DankaDank]

You make a good point but I can not fully agree here.
If you let the dimming circuit(blue and white wire) open B-series goes also above the ratings. Like you can see on the screenie below, the output can be up to 108%. This means a simple two pole switch next to the dimmer poti could be used to switch the dimming function on and off and use the drivers full potential.
Most b-drivers I've tested are between 105 and 106%, I'm pretty sure a HLG-320H-Cxxxxb can go up to 340w with open dimmer circuit.
View attachment 4049690

I tested with a multi-meter that adding a 10k resistor to 100k pot, bumps an extra 80ma to my HLG-185h-c1400b. I'm sure having total resistance of 110k achieves a similar effect as having open dim leads.

 

[Randomblame]

@Prawn Connery thanks very mutch for explaining all this stuff i guess you trying to burn the rest of my brains lolol and your are right about the info of the board, was slighty wrong, i was talking with the salesman and have news about the boards and this is actualy the most accurated
1.pcb size 305mm*355mm
2.volts 67.2v
3. Max current 2800
4. Watts 160w
5. Circuit 24 series 14 parallel

That means i can use elg 240 1750mah right ?

Thanks you have been very helpfull

Better take the HLG-240, you need more vf.
A vf of 67,2v means each LED get's 2,8v, this still does not match with the datasheet(only the very rare AY voltage bin would offer such low voltage).
67,2v @ 1,4A, okay, but at 2,8A 24 A1 diodes would need 72v.

 

[Green.Lady]

Better take the HLG-240, you need more vf.
A vf of 67,2v means each LED get's 2,8v, this still does not match with the datasheet(only the very rare AY voltage bin would offer such low voltage).
67,2v @ 1,4A, okay, but at 2,8A 24 A1 diodes would need 72v.

Damn you @Randomblame ! You ruin my happiness eheh the elg its a lot cheaper than hlg thats why iam aiming to elg, the guy from HS told me it was workable lol and told that was well 2.8v*24s=67.2 and i trust you more than him ehe i guess ive no escape from hlg 240 ehe

 

[Randomblame]

I tested with a multi-meter that adding a 10k resistor to 100k pot, bumps an extra 80ma to my HLG-185h-c1400b. I'm sure having total resistance of 110k achieves a similar effect as having open dim leads.

Yepp?! I did not know that but somehow it sounds logical. Hmm, I could save a buck for the switch next time and simple choose one with 110k.
I wonder why I did not even think of testing it ...?

I always take a bunch of ten e3ay B100k linear poti's to find one or two suitables because they are cheap.(1,90$)
Thanks for that info!
Much apprechiated!

 

[Randomblame]

Damn you @Randomblame ! You ruin my happiness eheh the elg its a lot cheaper than hlg thats why iam aiming to elg, the guy from HS told me it was workable lol and told that was well 2.8v*24s=67.2 and i trust you more than him ehe i guess ive no escape from hlg 240 ehe

You also have to keep in mind that the voltage depends on the operating temperatures. If you switch on the lamp at 20°C room temperature, it needs a few volts more, until it has warmed up. And if you exceed the voltage of the driver, it will automatically turn the current down anyway or turn completely off. It's always better to have a few volts of head room, IMO.

 

[Prawn Connery]

@Prawn Connery thanks very mutch for explaining all this stuff i guess you trying to burn the rest of my brains lolol and your are right about the info of the board, was slighty wrong, i was talking with the salesman and have news about the boards and this is actualy the most accurated
1.pcb size 305mm*355mm
2.volts 67.2v
3. Max current 2800
4. Watts 160w
5. Circuit 24 series 14 parallel

That means i can use elg 240 1750mah right ?

Thanks you have been very helpfull

Yeah, Randomblame is right - those numbers don't add up.

67.2V x 2.8a = 188.16W, not 160W.

Maybe those boards don't have LM561C diodes. The fact the manufacturer keeps giving you the wrong information sounds a little bit suspicious.

Ask him what is the maximum voltage at maximum current and see what he says.

 

[Green.Lady]

You also have to keep in mind that the voltage depends on the operating temperatures. If you switch on the lamp at 20°C room temperature, it needs a few volts more, until it has warmed up. And if you exceed the voltage of the driver, it will automatically turn the current down anyway or turn completely off. It's always better to have a few volts of head room, IMO.

Iam not giving up going to ask to HS salesman to make me a pcb with less volts lool kidding

Yeah, Randomblame is right - those numbers don't add up.

67.2V x 2.8a = 188.16W, not 160W.

Maybe those boards don't have LM561C diodes. The fact the manufacturer keeps giving you the wrong information sounds a little bit suspicious.

Ask him what is the maximum voltage at maximum current and see what he says.

Iam so sorry iam so dumb :/ Ok,iam going to ask him, i only ask him about the voltage this time and i put the rest of the old info that he gave me when i first talk with him, i didnt thought when i post

 

[Moflow]

Iam not giving up going to ask to HS salesman to make me a pcb with less volts lool kidding

Iam so sorry iam so dumb :/ Ok,iam going to ask him, i only ask him about the voltage this time and i put the rest of the old info that he gave me when i first talk with him, i didnt thought when i post

By the time you get this conundrum sorted those boards will be obsolete.........
Lol

 

[Green.Lady]

By the time you get this conundrum sorted those boards will be obsolete.........
Lol

Ehehe this week iam going to order all just waiting for the awser from hs to tell you this time all the correct data

 

[Moflow]

Ehehe this week iam going to order all just waiting for the awser from hs to tell you this time all the correct data

Only kidding lol
Hopefully you'l be up n running shortly

 

[Shawndeadhead]

She didn't say that.



It's not that at all. She started a thread and a few people immediately started rubbishing her choice of board instead of actually addressing her question.

If she wants to use the boards, that's her choice. If she wants to use one or two drivers, 240 or 320, that's her choice. Those who have been trying to help have merely crunched the numbers to offer suggestions that fit in with her plans.

If you think she should be building COBs instead of boards or strips, then by all means, put a proposal together, cost it, and maybe it will be even better than what she has planned.

Me? I built strip lights with a couple of HLG-240s because that was the most cost-efficient option I could come up with based on where I live and what my requirements were. I've already been through all this and am sharing what I've learned.


We've all got thick skin here. What's the horrible advice, and what would you suggest is better?

Actually I didn't tell her to use cobs Bec that's what I use, I actually asked her had she gotten her boards up and running and how she liked them.
Then I see 20 guys giving bad advice with hopes of getting cyberlaid or some dumb shit. She's confused with everything being thrown at her so instead of giving her more useless information she doesn't understand just to try and keep contact with her like these posers here, I gave her a link to YouTube page and videos that actually explain all the things she's asking about not try to confuse her worse with fake knowledge. Fucking high school in this place lol.
BTW copy and pasting data sheets and pdf's shows you know how to copy and paste doesn't mean you actually know shit about anything, your trying to tell someone who doesn't understand these things on what to buy.
You idiots are gonna get the poor girl killed when she's trying to put together a light she doesn't understand anything about because no one took the time to listen and go oh wow she just said she doesn't understand most of this stuff, so you keep selling her on diy equipment that could easily kill her until she slows down and learns the basics of what these terms being used means and the dangers about working with electricity, then one of the drivers one of your suggested is a freaking open frame driver, you would never use an open frame driver any where near a grow op.
I'm truly hoping she has someone with knowledge to assembly her boards for her, make no doubt any power supply pushing the kinda volts we are can and will kill you if you don't know what your doing.
Excuse the fuck out of me for seeing a dangerous situation happening and addressing it instead of thinking about pussy like the rest of you.