Help Me Prepare this Warehouse! (Insulation, Exhaust, Deconstruction....)

Sorry, I should have mentioned that this is a legal medical grow. I don't want the neighbours knowing, but the authorities can snoop all they like.

dazed76 said:

make sure you vent your exahust at a good place youll b seeing vapour clouds coming out cause of the temp difference hmmm you could jsut run 5 1000w no exhaust just a dehumidier though that would probably work but you have to test your temp status so you dont run into any probs

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How would that work? I don't get that. I don't think I even mentioned the dimensions, did I?

dazed76 said:

get used ballast and lights 10 or so and veg veg veg 24hrs a day that way your temp will b around 20 celcious, make clones and sell them to make money fro you project when you have 15 gran together properly insulate your room and buy new gear.

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That would be a possibility, but no one wants clones until about February.

fdd2blk said:

mine was about $100.

exhaust, ......... View attachment 255523 View attachment 255524


intake, ...... View attachment 255526 View attachment 255527






the smoke is bad.

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What is that 2nd pic? The one that looks like a big speaker?
And are there any particular specifications I should ask for at the hardware store? The room I'm isolating is 2,300 cubic feet, and I'm covering roughly 870 square feet of walls, ceiling, and floors.

Gamberro said:

Sorry, I should have mentioned that this is a legal medical grow. I don't want the neighbours knowing, but the authorities can snoop all they like.


How would that work? I don't get that. I don't think I even mentioned the dimensions, did I?

That would be a possibility, but no one wants clones until about February.


What is that 2nd pic? The one that looks like a big speaker?
And are there any particular specifications I should ask for at the hardware store? The room I'm isolating is 2,300 cubic feet, and I'm covering roughly 870 square feet of walls, ceiling, and floors.

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it's just a cardboard box with a piece of black nylon stocking over it. it is my "light trap". keeps light from shining inside my box thru my exhaust fan.

I just went all-out. Bought a $90 "TurboAire". At least the fucker will flow 11,000 cubic feet of air every minute. That could empty my entire space in 4 minutes, or fill it in less than half a minute.

Ordered a 1000W, now working with one 1000W MH, two 1000W HPS's. Also looking into the possibility of buying multiple economy 150W HPS's.

The most important thing you can do is not adding more insulation. It is blocking the air from entering the insulated cavity. You will do your self more good putting A closed cell formula insulation , like Dow Styrofoam on the outside of the walls you built than by adding more insulation in the side walls. The information is contained in the book. This Old House, I think Bob Villa and the crew wrote it. Tape all of the joints that are not tounge and groove.
Did you get the water figure out. VV

VictorVIcious said:

The most important thing you can do is not adding more insulation. It is blocking the air from entering the insulated cavity.

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Actually, it's so cold outside and I have a great exhaust, so for the moment I'm considering the cracks my "intake vents". I've read that this is doable, but correct me if I'm wrong. For my vapor barrier, I'm using panda film.

VictorVIcious said:

You will do your self more good putting A closed cell formula insulation , like Dow Styrofoam on the outside of the walls you built than by adding more insulation in the side walls.

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Like on top of the wall? Please explain, if it's not too much trouble.

VictorVIcious said:

Tape all of the joints that are not tounge and groove.
Did you get the water figure out. VV

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Yeah I have no idea what you mean by tongue and groove but uh... I have a reservoir that will provide almost 2 gallons per plant, and there's a massive hole in the floor. I think it was actually used for plant drainage by the previous owners (the setup of this place is just too suspicious), so if it worked for them I suppose I'll try it out as well.

The recommended r-value for insulation of side walls in our area is an r-19. you can not get an r-19 inside of a 2x4 wall. You can add Sytrofoam to the outside of the wall to get to that r- value and tounge and groove is just a method that they use to butt together securly, you may end up with pieces that butt together instead, just tape that joint and air will only be exchange at the point you want it to. VV

Thanks dude I'm taking your advice. Do you know how much per 10 sq. ft. is foam board?

down here the thicker stuff is like 12 and the thinner 8 per 4'x8'

I like your designing, similar to what I hope to do with the room within a room thing

slackjack said:

down here the thicker stuff is like 12 and the thinner 8 per 4'x8'

I like your designing, similar to what I hope to do with the room within a room thing

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Thanks for the help & props, primo. The other cool thing is this whole setup is left with the option of expandability, you know? So we may be ballin on a budget, but when we want to make it a bigger op, all we do is run to the hydro shop and lay down some more plastic.
I'll be sure to send up pics as long as I don't twitch on shit, I got to feel real safe. Even medical growers got to watch theyy back in this climate unfortunately. Failing that I'll toss up the plans.

Hey man i have this same issue what i did was just insulated as best i could and then threw a couple heaters in front of my intake.. between this and the fiberglass you should be ok i think.

Yeah! Draw up some plans for us, please!

PotRoastDinner said:

Hey man i have this same issue what i did was just insulated as best i could and then threw a couple heaters in front of my intake.. between this and the fiberglass you should be ok i think.

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A COUPLE? Well I'll dodge that at least, what with having a wood furnace to help out, but there's no way I can deal with that kind of energy. I'm already at 2KwH.

I'll draw the plans up over winter break, no doubt. I should be headin out today to check out the place, got two more rolls of batting and some 10-gauge extension cord. I'm thinking of throwing another 1000W right into the mix tho, in which case my electrical situation will get somewhat more complex.

I am sure it won't be anything we can't handle, I did install all of the electric in my shop from the new meter I put the pole in for through final inspection, its 200amp service. VV

Shit, for real, advice on that would be excellent man. I know nothing about wiring, or significantly little in any case, and my dad thinks he knows everything.
Doesn't it just feel great to be a part of the most exclusive forum on the world wide internets?

Gamberro said:

Shit, for real, advice on that would be excellent man. I know nothing about wiring, or significantly little in any case, and my dad thinks he knows everything.
Doesn't it just feel great to be a part of the most exclusive forum on the world wide internets?

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Okay, so I'm going to have to call in that favour from my RIU homies.
I want to fit 3Kw per hour into the shed so I can have heat and two lights, but even approaching 2000 watts, the fuse is going when the second heater starts to rev up- no lights on. So getting the room I plastic'd off from the rest even above freezing is a mission for that single heater. There are other fuses available, but I would love to be able to fit a lot of voltage into that shed (like 10kW), and I do not want to pay 6 grand to have a line put into the ground.
If I have to spend $500 on a heavy-amp above-ground cord then fine, but I need to get this shit hooked up in the next two weeks.