Hermie Prone Plants? No problem!

bigbudheadshrimp

Well-Known Member
Chemdawg D used to be a problem for me. It would always hermie real bad early-mid flower. I'm talking beyond nanners, I'm talking pollen sacks every other node. But I keep growing Chem D because it smells, tastes, looks super dank, and is very potent. But best of all the yield, almost 3 pounds per light! So I obviously was doing something right but hermies kept being an issue, UNTIL NOW! Keep reading.

1. Prepare foliar spray.
( Add 30mL of Monterey Florel and 1 drop of dish soap per gallon of filtered water. Adjust to 4.5 pH. Use within 4 hours, spray degrades quickly.)

2. Light foliar spray during lights on.
(Repeat weekly starting 1 week before flower. Stop 2 weeks before harvest.)

That's it. Completely seedless buds. How does it work? When you foliar spray during lights on the active ingredient in Florel, Ethephon, starts to evaporate into ethylene, a natural plant hormone, causing the plants to stop seed production, dry out nanners and pollen sacks, grow tighter nodes, grow roots faster, and also finish flowering about a week earlier. At higher concentrations it can cause female flowers on male plants, awesome for male breeding selection.
 

SlimeOnDeck

New Member
1. Prepare foliar spray.
( Add 30mL of Monterey Florel and 1 drop of dish soap per gallon of filtered water. Adjust to 4.5 pH. Use within 4 hours, spray degrades quickly.)

2. Light foliar spray during lights on.
(Repeat weekly starting 1 week before flower. Stop 2 weeks before harvest.)

That's it. Completely seedless buds. How does it work? When you foliar spray during lights on the active ingredient in Florel, Ethephon, starts to evaporate into ethylene, a natural plant hormone, causing the plants to stop seed production, dry out nanners and pollen sacks, grow tighter nodes, grow roots faster, and also finish flowering about a week earlier. At higher concentrations it can cause female flowers on male plants, awesome for male breeding selection.
But what's the dish soap for?
 

bigbudheadshrimp

Well-Known Member
The soap makes the spray stick to the leaves better, giving the Florel's Ethephon time to evaporate into ethylene. I believe Dutch Master sells a product called Saturator, which is basically dish soap diluted in water, for over $50 a liter. Dutch Master also makes a product called Reverse, which is basically diluted Florel, for $100 a liter.
 

SlimeOnDeck

New Member
T
The soap makes the spray stick to the leaves better, giving the Florel's Ethephon time to evaporate into ethylene. I believe Dutch Master sells a product called Saturator, which is basically dish soap diluted in water, for over $50 a liter. Dutch Master also makes a product called Reverse, which is basically diluted Florel, for $100 a liter.
Thanks for the pointers. I'll check it out.
 

DemonTrich

Well-Known Member
im doing the same thing to an entire room to prevent a light leak hermie issue. dutch masters reverse has now been discontinued. Optic Foliar SWITCH is the same exact formula as reverse. reverse cost was 28.00, switch is 21.00. im using the saturator with the switch, as im not paying for the "switch" brand additive. its basically all the same (dish soap type. if using dish soap, do NOT use antibacterial soap.

my next spray is in 4 days.


I might check out the florel if its cheaper to keep on hand for next time. hope there isn't a next time.

edit:
you say you spray all thru 1 week before harvest. holy crap, that's a ton of work and a lot of spray. switch is 2 sprays and your done (1st spray then 10 days later).
 

hydrogreen65

Well-Known Member
The soap makes the spray stick to the leaves better, giving the Florel's Ethephon time to evaporate into ethylene. I believe Dutch Master sells a product called Saturator, which is basically dish soap diluted in water, for over $50 a liter. Dutch Master also makes a product called Reverse, which is basically diluted Florel, for $100 a liter.
You might want to actually read the ingredients before you go making dumb ass comments like that.
Hell, reading your whole post, you're wrong on price too. lmao
 

DemonTrich

Well-Known Member
fully saturate every leaf with the lights ON. MUST be lights on as the stamas need light to open and absorb the product.

also, product must be used with-in 15 mins of mixing the 2 products.
 

bigbudheadshrimp

Well-Known Member
You might want to actually read the ingredients before you go making dumb ass comments like that.
Hell, reading your whole post, you're wrong on price too. lmao
Fact is Dutch Masters describes Saturator as a wetting agent. I'd rather use dish soap, does the job and is much cheaper. Same reason I use pool shock (calcium hypochlorite) instead of Clear Rez in my aero cloner. I'd be crazy to pay $20 for 16oz when a $4 bag of Shock N Swim makes 450 gallons of it. And Florel does the job. A day after spraying nanners start dying. Not one damn seed in my whole 10k watt grow of Chemdawg D. Went from full on male pollen sacks and nanners to just a few nanners late in flower and not one seed. And my bad if I got the pricing wrong.
 

bigbudheadshrimp

Well-Known Member
im doing the same thing to an entire room to prevent a light leak hermie issue. dutch masters reverse has now been discontinued. Optic Foliar SWITCH is the same exact formula as reverse. reverse cost was 28.00, switch is 21.00. im using the saturator with the switch, as im not paying for the "switch" brand additive. its basically all the same (dish soap type. if using dish soap, do NOT use antibacterial soap.

my next spray is in 4 days.


I might check out the florel if its cheaper to keep on hand for next time. hope there isn't a next time.

edit:
you say you spray all thru 1 week before harvest. holy crap, that's a ton of work and a lot of spray. switch is 2 sprays and your done (1st spray then 10 days later).
I stop 2-3 weeks before harvest on strains like Chemdawg D that like to hermie bad. But I also use it for its many other benefits. More nodes, more roots, reduced stretch, late flower defoliation, and reduced flowering time. Without it my Chemdawg D finishes in 10 weeks vs 9.
 

401bigsm0ke

Well-Known Member
I stop 2-3 weeks before harvest on strains like Chemdawg D that like to hermie bad. But I also use it for its many other benefits. More nodes, more roots, reduced stretch, late flower defoliation, and reduced flowering time. Without it my Chemdawg D finishes in 10 weeks vs 9.
fully saturate every leaf with the lights ON. MUST be lights on as the stamas need light to open and absorb the product.

also, product must be used with-in 15 mins of mixing the 2 products.
Lol thank you makes a lot more sense now
ay this stuff switch works?? i gota hermie that is starting to pollinate the rest of room there about to flower there autos.. dont wanna get rid of them so you guys used this switch stuff and it gets rid of seed pollination etc?? im getting a couple seeds on bottom branches just been cutting off not to bad but i want it to get rid of pollenation
 

DemonTrich

Well-Known Member
I went thru 15 bottle of switch and 6 bottles of dutch farms reverse in over 10 flower cycles. NOTHING WORKED!!!! its snake oil IMO. I tried everything I could think of and after asking some more experienced growers on some forums for advise, we couldn't come up with something that worked to save this strain. so the strain was culled, im just glad I have a 1/2oz saved in a vacuum sealed mason jar for emergencies. this was my personal medicating plants that saved my ass for 4 years. now I have nothing, and back to pharmaceutical drugs :(

I think I still have a couple (maby 2 unopened) bottles of switch and the dutch farms penetrator if you would like them FREE. I will never use them again and they are collecting dust on my "junk" shelf.
 

401bigsm0ke

Well-Known Member
I went thru 15 bottle of switch and 6 bottles of dutch farms reverse in over 10 flower cycles. NOTHING WORKED!!!! its snake oil IMO. I tried everything I could think of and after asking some more experienced growers on some forums for advise, we couldn't come up with something that worked to save this strain. so the strain was culled, im just glad I have a 1/2oz saved in a vacuum sealed mason jar for emergencies. this was my personal medicating plants that saved my ass for 4 years. now I have nothing, and back to pharmaceutical drugs :(

I think I still have a couple (maby 2 unopened) bottles of switch and the dutch farms penetrator if you would like them FREE. I will never use them again and they are collecting dust on my "junk" shelf.
i would take the two for free lol but im from ri.
but the switch didnt even slow down seed pollination thats wat i want it for cuz i think one hermied but i wanna keep it cuz i got a very few plants right now to begin with. just starting out.
 

DemonTrich

Well-Known Member
ill gladly ship, but the person must pay for shipping (I doubt its considered hazardous, but it may be, who knows). but its free. I paid 27.00 a bottle for the switch and 21 for the penetrator (basically high priced soapy water)
 

Farmer CBD

Member
I'm about to try Optic Foliar Switch for the first time on friday, as I've discovered a couple hermies 3 weeks into flower, and want to try to save them.

The bottle says NOT to adjust the PH or dilute with H20, but I''m seeing on here that you recommend 30ml/gal, and to adjust the PH to 4.5? Just wondering what the point of that is??
 

blowinmaryfast

Well-Known Member
Fact is Dutch Masters describes Saturator as a wetting agent. I'd rather use dish soap, does the job and is much cheaper. Same reason I use pool shock (calcium hypochlorite) instead of Clear Rez in my aero cloner. I'd be crazy to pay $20 for 16oz when a $4 bag of Shock N Swim makes 450 gallons of it. And Florel does the job. A day after spraying nanners start dying. Not one damn seed in my whole 10k watt grow of Chemdawg D. Went from full on male pollen sacks and nanners to just a few nanners late in flower and not one seed. And my bad if I got the pricing wrong.
Hey bud sorry to revive an old thread but I'm having a big problem. Week four and there are open pollen sacks all over the bottoms of my plant where I lollipopped. Buds still swelling and triched out. I've used floral on many greenhouse crops at around 500ppm. Seen the flowers drop branching increase and some burn too. So I want to know is it safe to spray at least the bottoms of my plants. They're all dialed I don't want to lose a lb or two! Would you recommend using florel or just spray with water ever other day and pick them. I've had clones for the last 6 years so I'm totally new to this! Hope you can help man.
 
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