Discussion in 'Drain-To-Waste Hydro' started by im4satori, Jun 7, 2015.
How long will this actually last (stay usable)?
Check out alibaba for the injectors, looks like they have some for factory farming chickens.
Old post but you have professional greenhouse experience dont you satori? If u dont u sure do sound like it. What a pro. Nice thread.
Trying to learn. Was wondering what book or books you recommend
Bump. Good read, I gotta get me up to speed on dosers. I didn't before because RDWC, but now I'm in soilless and this is making a great deal of sense.
back again sorry I was gone for a long while
no I have no pro green house experience... but I have read a lot and made many mistakes that taught me a good bit
the doser I use are advertised for chicken use ... theyre the least expensive and have worked well for years without service... the only down side would be the mixing ratio is fixed at 128:1 where as the high dollar dosers you can change the ratio
A PRACTICAL GUIDE FOR SOILESS GROWER
J. BENTON JONES JR.
it seems advanced and took me a long while to grasp it, but I eventually did
its strange to think back on how hard it was for me to figure it out and now it seems so basic to me
nope no professional experience
sorry I never got back to you friend
nutes generally last a very very long time
several years at minimum
I have considered options allowing N leaching in late flower
what I thought to do is mix 2 sets of stock solution (4 containers)
and just switching the doser tube over to the other stock container at week 4 or 5 or 6 or whatever
so the first set of two stock containers would feed the first part of the flower cycle and the second set of two stock container could feed the later part of the flower cycle to reduce N or leach N
but after years of doing it both ways (I started out in recirc) I find the benefits to adjusting the nutrient ratio to leach N is unnecessary and has little to no baring on the finish product
in my experience the only need to leach is if your feeding to high an EC... if your EC remains low and within range you wont need to leach
I also find... I can control or reduce N in the plant simply by allowing the ph to climb and stay between 6.2 and 6.5.. which naturally happens in the medium samples as you reduce watering late into flower
the reduction in watering frequency and shorter watering durations will cause the medium ph to rise a great deal
recently I have adjusted my watering schedule... I used to water 1 min an hour but this casues an EC climb within the medium because im not getting enough fluid thru the cube to rinse out the old
so now I set my solution ph to 5.5 I water 5 minutes every 4 hours and the medium ph stays good at 5.8 ish
Im currently feeding an EC or .08 and the medium samples are like 0.7 which is awesome
you can see from the pics the leaves are slightly torched or twisted... this was the result of a quick ph swing/change
I started with a new product Pekacid
and had to figure out how much to mix to get the ph correct...
the ph in the medium was running a bit high 6.5 causing zinc, Mn, and Fe to be locked out
I lowered the ph of the stock solution using sulfuric acid and gave them a foliar feed of peters s.t.e.m. 1/4 tsp per gallon
the yellowing at the top (micro def) corrected itself over night but I got a little bit of leaf curl
all these plants are satori f2 and only a few days into 12/12
satori x satori (made by me)
fan leaves are huuuuge
my first time growing the f2s
I took the lower branches for clones to sex them
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