How to make low quality hashish?

Hey.

How would you make hashish if you want more mass out of it?

I'm not interested about the best or most efficient way to separate trichomes from leaves, but I'm interested about getting as much mass out of the finished product as possible, while at the same time I'd like to still be able to call it hashish, you know.

What would be the method?

geee, um, quick wash buds/scraps in iso, pour through a screen into a glass dish, evap and scrape up. heat/press/cool/done

I use a tamisium extraction unit with all my extra buds. I dont keep scraps but buds break up, dont get distributed, etc.
I also have an awesome pollen shaker that produces high quality kief. I warm and press my kief with my oil until its a beautiful hashy consistency. Its the best we ever had, blows the old cellophane/red ribbon hash of yesteryear away

Dry sift through a larger micron screen.

chemphlegm said:

geee, um, quick wash buds/scraps in iso, pour through a screen into a glass dish, evap and scrape up. heat/press/cool/done

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That sounds weird.. reminds me how you make iso oil. I'd like it to have more hashy texture, not oily.

macsnax said:

Dry sift through a larger micron screen.

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How many microns do you recommend?

Screen really dry buds so you end up with more plant material. More mass and less quality. Only question I have....Why?

Helmut79 said:

That sounds weird.. reminds me how you make iso oil. I'd like it to have more hashy texture, not oily.

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pay attention to the "screen" my man, you choose how much junk you want in it, the stuff that holds the oil together, by the size of the screen you choose aye?

Helmut79 said:

How many microns do you recommend?

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get a set of bubble bags....and return all the material you want, as much as you want, as crappier a product you need, a look you strive for. this is so simple stupid, like making low quality hash, I gotta believe you're joking right?

've read that most people prefer hash that has been filtered through 90 microns, and 120 microns seem to be smokable too, but most people still categorize it as edible. Makes sense?

One more question. How many and what size micron filters should it go through before using 120 microns, if 120 microns is what I'm striving for?

https://www.rollitup.org/t/the-french-cannoli-hash-thread.648510/

Frenchy's way is cool, no separation into hordes of meshes. He collects all together for a full spectrum experience.

Helmut79 said:

've read that most people prefer hash that has been filtered through 90 microns, and 120 microns seem to be smokable too, but most people still categorize it as edible. Makes sense?

One more question. How many and what size micron filters should it go through before using 120 microns, if 120 microns is what I'm striving for?

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directions are always included in bubble bag kits. trial and error, google. we here are into making high quality marijuana products sorry.

WeedFreak78 said:

Screen really dry buds so you end up with more plant material. More mass and less quality. Only question I have....Why?

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I would assume he's selling it and wants to get the most out of it. But I don't think he will end up with that much more to justify an inferior product.

Buy a cheap camp washer....fill it with ice and water... Add trim or whatever low quality shit ya want to a work bag... Throw work bag into camp washer and run it for 15 min cycle, two or three times. Drain into bubble bags /5 gallon bucket rig.
The trick is to get a 8 bag bubble bag... Doesn't cost much more then the 5 bag... Keep the bottom bag for yourself. Mix the other 6 or 7 top bags together.... You will get a lot of "hash" looking product that burns slow and bubbles.... But really your "hash" will have a decent amount of filler in it from the top couple of bubble bags. I toss the shit from the top couple of bags myself... But mixed in it can really increase your weight.

never put the bags in the ice....
You just want the trim/flowers and ice water, the ice is not there to grind anything. That is why you use as little ice as you can get away with to cool the water.

You don't need a million bags.
190 throw stuff on this away or back into the water
160 Keep for edibles.
42 this is for your harvest
25(optional) edibles.

ANC said:

never put the bags in the ice....
You just want the trim/flowers and ice water, the ice is not there to grind anything. That is why you use as little ice as you can get away with to cool the water.

You don't need a million bags.
190 throw stuff on this away or back into the water
160 Keep for edibles.
42 this is for your harvest
25(optional) edibles.

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I have always added a good amount of ice plus water. Finding the right mix is important as I don't want to grind the herb if it's possible to.... but I have never had that problem. I assume grinding herb would result in my larger screens catching organic material which they don't. Or I would see organic material from grinding the herb at the the bottom of the the camp washer, which I don't. Few videos on YouTube show the same procedure of adding ice to your wash water.... Anyways I agree that one should avoid adding so much ice that they grind their herb. I find the perfect ice to water ratio will make a froth at the the top of the water line appear.

Skip all the bags but the 220 Micron bag, use dry ice instead of water/ice.

MATS
1- 220 micron bag
1- clean/sanitzed 5 gallon bucket.
3-4 lbs of dry ice
1- pair heavy insulated gloves - cooking gloves or alike to handle dry ice
1- hammer to smash dry ice into smaller 2-3 inch chunks
1- large glass table top or piece of plexy glass (to shake the bag over)
1- 3-4 inch paint scrapper or alike (to collect resin into a pile)

Add your trimings/ground plant material and chunks of dry ice into the bucket.
Fit your bag over the bucket and shake/twirl bucket around for about 4 mins (keeping bucket upright!)
With the bag still over the bucket, flip upside down and let/help all the contents sift trough the mesh onto your table or surface.
Scrape the resin over to a nice pile or into a container and repeat the above steps until your sastifed with the amount of resin or you run out of dry ice.

HANDLE DRY ICE WITH CARE AND THICK ASS GLOVES

RatKing said:

Buy a cheap camp washer....fill it with ice and water... Add trim or whatever low quality shit ya want to a work bag... Throw work bag into camp washer and run it for 15 min cycle, two or three times. Drain into bubble bags /5 gallon bucket rig.
The trick is to get a 8 bag bubble bag... Doesn't cost much more then the 5 bag... Keep the bottom bag for yourself. Mix the other 6 or 7 top bags together.... You will get a lot of "hash" looking product that burns slow and bubbles.... But really your "hash" will have a decent amount of filler in it from the top couple of bubble bags. I toss the shit from the top couple of bags myself... But mixed in it can really increase your weight.

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I think I'd toss the first one (190 microns) and mix it all together below 190 microns. What do you think, how much hash could I potentially get this way from 100g of trimmings for example? I got no fan leaves in my trimmings - only leaves covered with crystals.

Can you tell me how much could I expect from 100g? Maybe about 50g? More? Less?

I wouldn't use anything below 40 odd for anything but medibles. And you will not often find a 220 resin gland so, not sure what the rest of the bigger stuff is that method would collect.

About 5g if you have good material

50g off 100g of trim? Even if you did dry ice and had a boatload of contaminates you will be lucky to get 20g back. If you wanted something most people would want to smoke more like 5-10g from 100g trim.

Helmut79 said:

How many microns do you recommend?

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The best way to get tons of "dirty" hash IMO is to drysift. I use a metal 220 micron screen stretched across a square foot of inch and a half pine from Home Depot. Costed less than 20 bucks to build. I built set of screens that stack onto each other with smaller micron sizes going down to 100u to clean the hash but I just use the 220u most often.
If the material is fresh & dry enough just a quick 3 minute bounce on the screen yields high quality kief hash; subsequent wastes will have more contams as the material gets beat up. I put the whole screen with the trims on top inside a freezer for 30mins before doing the first bounce which helps knock trichs off with less effort.
Dry sift is so easy to make and such a delicious treat. You can press the kief by hand or with a heat source between parchment paper if you wanted solid hashish but a low contaminant "first bounce" kief will solidify in a small jar over time if simply allowed to cure for a week or 2.