Introducing CobKits.com - specializing in DIY and Citizen COBs

CobKits said:

why would you put 2 driver leads to one wago?

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I have 2 drivers. I'm combining the leads to use a single extension cord.

So for the 1st connection: Live from driver 1, Live from driver 2, Live from extension cord.
I'll do the same with the ground and neutral with their own connector if that makes sense.

Oh on the AC side, roger that

yeah wagos are plenty rated for AC

get yourself a junction box and some strain reliefs while youre at it

CobKits said:

Oh on the AC side, roger that

yeah wagos are plenty rated for AC

get yourself a junction box and some strain reliefs while youre at it

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CobKits said:

Oh on the AC side, roger that

yeah wagos are plenty rated for AC

get yourself a junction box and some strain reliefs while youre at it

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What about galvanic corrosion between the copper and aluminum in the Wago connector? Or am I being overly paranoid?

kaivorth said:

What about galvanic corrosion between the copper and aluminum in the Wago connector? Or am I being overly paranoid?

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Yes..........., oxide layer, and no corrosive water(salt) contact hopefully

PSUAGRO. said:

Yes..........., oxide layer, and no corrosive water(salt) contact hopefully

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Why is it against building code to wire copper to aluminum then? (Sorry if I'm being a pain, this stuff just intrigues me) I tend to ask why a lot..

kaivorth said:

Why is it against building code to wire copper to aluminum then? (Sorry if I'm being a pain, this stuff just intrigues me) I tend to ask why a lot..

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Wait a second I'm an idiot. The wires off the meanwell are Tin coated copper aren't they? (COBkits pointed this out earlier I think)

I think you are mistaking the solder

kaivorth said:

Wait a second I'm an idiot. The wires off the meanwell are Tin coated copper aren't they? (COBkits pointed this out earlier I think)

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Bingo

I've stripped them there just copper wires that have been tin coated so there easier to work with you will have no problem with corrosion.

CobKits said:

which driver? 185-36A?

all of them are rated for full life at 70C. if you can keep your hand on it its less than 70C. airflow never hurts electronics tho

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Yes the 185-36a...it was running at 110*f at peak which is well below 70*c. I did a conversion and it's running at about 44*c

easy breezy. remember these are designed to live in hot fixtures. just by keeping it in any sort of open air it should live damn near forever

Hey Cobby, have you looked at Getian again lately? I got their latest sample price sheet and it seems like they have some good offerings. I'm not sure if they've updated their lineup since you last tested them.

Bigger order on the way. Making the full conversion from HPS over to 3500 90CRI. If anyone is on the fence, do it. Been running HPS 6 years and it only took two weeks to convince me once I built out a small fixture for one of my tents. Cobkits has been great with communication thus far and just wanted to say thanks again.

What solder iron do you guys recommend for soldering 16GA solid copper wire?

I can email them i guess. they'd need a new gen to hang with whats out there. they were ok cobs but at the time citi had em beat on price/performance. its expensive and a pain in the ass to import things where citi and luminus do that for me. their 22mm chips would be like a buck or two at most less than citi1212 and i dont think theyd be as efficient unless they made a new gen that bumped them 10% or more. their 1825-equivalent chip is 100V which i dont like

kaivorth said:

What solder iron do you guys recommend for soldering 16GA solid copper wire?

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i like my digital weller station but these tekpowers look decent for $50 and il bet they take the same tips

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TekpowerTP936D-40-Watts-Digital-Soldering-Station-working-as-Weller-WLC100-/201688740179?hash=item2ef595f153:g:vgkAAOSwYIxX~fUx

WolverineGrower said:

Bigger order on the way. Making the full conversion from HPS over to 3500 90CRI. If anyone is on the fence, do it. Been running HPS 6 years and it only took two weeks to convince me once I built out a small fixture for one of my tents. Cobkits has been great with communication thus far and just wanted to say thanks again.

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this should be one of the bigger luminus rooms i cant wait to see it

Hi, I searched RIU looking for more information about the CXM-22 and found in this thread the data sheet for the CXM-22 and CXB3590:

I wanted to compare the Output Flux for 3500K (80 CRI) for both COBs.


The CXM-22 sheet says: 1,100mA and specified at Tj = 85ºC (I guess 50v, meaning 39,6W)

Typ.(85C): 8,530
Min.(85C): 7,935
Typ.(Calculated 25C): 9,215

It gives 8,530/39.6 = 215 lm/W



The CXB3590 sheet says: 36 V (If = 2400 mA, TJ = 85 °C) (86,4W)

Group: CD
Flux(lm) @85C: 12,000
Flux(lm) @25C: 13,237

It gives 12,000/86,4 = 138 lm/W


It seems that the CXB3590 gives more total lm than the CXM-22, and also that the CXB3590 is less efficient in terms of lm/W. Is it right?

the luminus is not 39W more like 55W at 1100 mA

also youre comparing a chip at different wattage. theres no reason a chip needs to be operated at the datasheet spec current. both of those are in spec when operated past 100W

when compared at a given wattage, cxm22 is about 2-3% more efficient than CXB3590 at all wattages by my tests

How long can you run the citizen 1212's for continuously? And is the a specific amount of time that they should be rested?

SuperHI TnT said:

How long can you run the citizen 1212's for continuously?

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forever

SuperHI TnT said:

And is the a specific amount of time that they should be rested?

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no properly designed LED fixture ever needs to rest