Jacks (JR Peters) nutrients

im4satori

Well-Known Member
keep in mind

the veg formula is what id call a safe EC on the high side

the bloom formula is very very hot and meant to be cut to reduce the EC
personally I would cut the bloom formula down by 35% but I run my EC at 1.0 to 1.2


the bloom is 2:1:3 NPK

and calcium to magnesium 2:1

the calcium is a little bit on the top end (90ppm ideal) but still with in a 10ppm margin

K: Ca : Mg 3:2:1
 
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im4satori

Well-Known Member
again; this is very very hot and meant to be cut

if you want to run close to a 1:1:2 npk ratio in late bloom

(by the time you ph adjust with phosphoric acid your P will be cloe or the same as the N)
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
when comparing the different recipes you have to take into account the amount of heat in the mix

the veg recipe has total active elemental ppm of about 450ppm (not to be confused with what your ppm pen measures)

the bloom mix formulas are at 550ppm which is significantly higher EC
when you cut the ppm of the bloom formula to match the EC of the veg mix the numbers are easier to compare (apples to apples)

it can be misleading try to compare the two when one is hotter than the other
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
ttystik drawing.png
ORANGE
enter the amount of gallons to be mixed

in RED
product name first column
grams per gallon second column
grams per designated reservoir size third column (multiplies grams per gallon x the reservoir size entry in orange)


PINK
all the elements

BLUE
converts the % info into PPMs of each element combined in your solution
so you can see how many ppm of nitrogen your adding and compare that to how many ppm of potassium your adding
then compare the levels of nitrogen or whatever between each time I post a new ratio

those numbers being balance between each other is more important than anything

so the ratio between n : p : K

looking at the numbers in blue

N 120ppm : P60ppm K: 180ppm (give or take 10ppm)

that's a 2:1:3 ratio between npk

the bottom number in blue it the total active elements in your mix... that number is more valuable than all the ppm and EC pens in the world

if you use the calculator and track what your adding and use the active elemental ppm as your gauge as to what is more or less you can throw your EC/ppm pen away

if you don't have the calculator and you just want to follow a recipe you have to use the EC/ppm pen as a gauge to identify a set point to use in terms of strength
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
keep in mind

the veg formula is what id call a safe EC on the high side

the bloom formula is very very hot and meant to be cut to reduce the EC
personally I would cut the bloom formula down by 35% but I run my EC at 1.0 to 1.2


the bloom is 2:1:3 NPK

and calcium to magnesium 2:1

the calcium is a little bit on the top end (90ppm ideal) but still with in a 10ppm margin

K: Ca : Mg 3:2:1
RATIOS, bro! Every recipe is in parts, not grams. To be honest, I don't even know what the 'full strength' EC would be to the recipe, it's irrelevant to my purposes.
 
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ttystikk

Well-Known Member
View attachment 3890046
ORANGE
enter the amount of gallons to be mixed

in RED
product name first column
grams per gallon second column
grams per designated reservoir size third column (multiplies grams per gallon x the reservoir size entry in orange)


PINK
all the elements

BLUE
converts the % info into PPMs of each element combined in your solution
so you can see how many ppm of nitrogen your adding and compare that to how many ppm of potassium your adding
then compare the levels of nitrogen or whatever between each time I post a new ratio

those numbers being balance between each other is more important than anything

so the ratio between n : p : K

looking at the numbers in blue

N 120ppm : P60ppm K: 180ppm (give or take 10ppm)

that's a 2:1:3 ratio between npk

the bottom number in blue it the total active elements in your mix... that number is more valuable than all the ppm and EC pens in the world

if you use the calculator and track what your adding and use the active elemental ppm as your gauge as to what is more or less you can throw your EC/ppm pen away

if you don't have the calculator and you just want to follow a recipe you have to use the EC/ppm pen as a gauge to identify a set point to use in terms of strength
I've had a lot of knowledgeable people tell me that I'm shooting for 3:2:4 NPK ratios.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
View attachment 3890046
ORANGE
enter the amount of gallons to be mixed

in RED
product name first column
grams per gallon second column
grams per designated reservoir size third column (multiplies grams per gallon x the reservoir size entry in orange)


PINK
all the elements

BLUE
converts the % info into PPMs of each element combined in your solution
so you can see how many ppm of nitrogen your adding and compare that to how many ppm of potassium your adding
then compare the levels of nitrogen or whatever between each time I post a new ratio

those numbers being balance between each other is more important than anything

so the ratio between n : p : K

looking at the numbers in blue

N 120ppm : P60ppm K: 180ppm (give or take 10ppm)

that's a 2:1:3 ratio between npk

the bottom number in blue it the total active elements in your mix... that number is more valuable than all the ppm and EC pens in the world

if you use the calculator and track what your adding and use the active elemental ppm as your gauge as to what is more or less you can throw your EC/ppm pen away

if you don't have the calculator and you just want to follow a recipe you have to use the EC/ppm pen as a gauge to identify a set point to use in terms of strength
I use an EC pen every time I mix my nutrients, as well as a pH meter. Don't you? So I mix to the recipe's called for ratios, dilute to desired EC and adjust pH last.
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
ttystikminus25.png

speaking in reference to the bloom formula

here is the same mix ratio minus 25% of each product

this ends with a total active element (452ppm) about the same as the veg mix (so the mix should yield about the same EC)

the ratios are still npk 3:2:1

i use my EC pen only to check my waste to compare to the feed solution and on occasion i run a very small recirculating system and i might check the solution to see if theres an EC rise or fall thru the week... but i rely on the calculator to determine the strength of my nutrient mix
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
3-2-4

like
99 ppm N
66 ppm P
132 ppm K

that what the numbers look like for 3-2-4

the number 33 goes into the N 3x
33 goes into the P 2x
33 goes into the K 4x

theres nothing wrong with that formula

it puts more P in the ratio.... which isn't really needed especially if your adjust ph with phosphoric acid

its essentially the same formula plus or minus the ph adjustment

my formula give you a starting ratio of 2:1:3 npk
by the time you add 1.5 mls per gallon of phosphoric acid the ratios changes to the 3-2-4
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
ttystik324.png

here is a 3-2-4 not accounting for the PH adjustment of phosphoric

the only real change is the P is higher ...which you don't really need

the iron in the 5-11-26 mix is already on the lower end raising the P up might give you issues with iron uptake

i wouldn't mix it this way the reduction in the mix only lowers the iron more

the 5-11-26 mix works better at the 2-1-3 ratios perfectly

and like i said by the time you ph adjust your there
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
So, keeping firmly in mind these are meant as ratios, not exact recipes, what do you think I should change if anything?

VEG
2 parts 5-11-26 mix
2 parts calcium nitrate
1 part mag sulfate, aka epsom salts

BLOOM
2.5 parts mix
2 parts calcium nitrate
1 part epsom
.5 MKP, monopotassium phosphate

LATE BLOOM last 2 weeks
2.5 parts mix
1.6 calcium nitrate
.75 epsom
.75 MKP
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
just look at the numbers in the column designated blue

look at the numbers change from post to post
to start
watch the ratio between NPK and see how it changes...

then look at the ratios between K:Ca:Mg and see how they change....
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
i wouldn't change a thing

just dilute the hot mix to your preferred EC

mix it your way (hot) or mix it my way (25%less) its the same ratios and there about perfect

only thing that changes is the EC

another way to look at it would be

if you mix your recipe for 75 gallon... but added it to 100 gallons of water (25% more) youd be about what I feed in EC (between 1.0 and 1.2)and still at the same ratios
 
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ttystikk

Well-Known Member
i wouldn't change a thing

just dilute the hot mix to your preferred EC

mix it your way (hot) or mix it my way (25%less) its the same ratios and there about perfect

only thing that changes is the EC

another way to look at it would be

if you mix your recipe for 75 gallon... but added it to 100 gallons of water (25% more) youd be about what I feed in EC (between 1.0 and 1.2)and still at the same ratios
I mix the recipe x 50, then fill a 30 gallon trash can until I get to EC 2.2 - 2.4.
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
I mix the recipe x 50, then fill a 30 gallon trash can until I get to EC 2.2 - 2.4.
only difference between what your mixing and what im mixing is the EC

you use double what I use

cant imagine why your plants would need double what mine need when mine show no signs of def at EC 1.2

if I drop down to 1.0 is see some def...
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
your EC could likely need to be higher than mine since your in a different medium but I cant see how it would need to be double
 
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