Killing Root Rot

i81two

Well-Known Member
So now im a little confused. i had a root rot or what was more like stem rot at the root ball of my flowering plants. I nursed them to harvest and got lucky with a couple of them.

I worry that my mothers have it. They seem to be doing well but if they have it my clones are probably doomed. Or are they ?

Can i use clorox or not ?

And if so, how much ?
 

doctorwsj

Member
So I bought a chlorine test kit (strips) 0 -10 PPM.

I added about 30ml to 45 gallon reservoir and basically no reading, I ultimatly had to add 100 + ml and then I received a 1 PPM reading but only for about 5 or 10 minutes then not detectable again.

So is it oxidizing my nutrients that quick or what am i not understanding about this. I thought I should be able to have a residuale 1 PPM level but OMG how much would that require?

I then tool just 25ml to a 55 gallons of clean water and it retained a residual of 2 PPM for over a day so far??

Please explain someone....
 

RickWhite

Well-Known Member
Pythium is an opportunistic pathogen. That means it attacks weak plants. You can take clones which can overcome the problem but it can be difficult due to the susceptible nature of the new root growth.

I started another thread on here somewhere - I will summarize. First, clone in cool, well aerated, low PH solution around 5.5-5.7. All these things help slow the multiplication of the Pythium. A clone machine is probably very useful given the aerobic condition.

You can also experiment with soaking cuttings in a mild bleach solution first. Around 5 drops / gal should work.

I can tell you that if you can get clones to take and you are careful, they can make a 100% recovery. If you have a prize strain this might be worth it. Oh, and as I have learned, always keep a mom in some good well aerated soil or soil less. Hydroponics can cause quick, dramatic growth but it can just as easily cause quick, catastrophic failure. Soil type mediums are much more forgiving.
 

doctorwsj

Member
Pythium is an opportunistic pathogen. That means it attacks weak plants. You can take clones which can overcome the problem but it can be difficult due to the susceptible nature of the new root growth.

I started another thread on here somewhere - I will summarize. First, clone in cool, well aerated, low PH solution around 5.5-5.7. All these things help slow the multiplication of the Pythium. A clone machine is probably very useful given the aerobic condition.

You can also experiment with soaking cuttings in a mild bleach solution first. Around 5 drops / gal should work.

I can tell you that if you can get clones to take and you are careful, they can make a 100% recovery. If you have a prize strain this might be worth it. Oh, and as I have learned, always keep a mom in some good well aerated soil or soil less. Hydroponics can cause quick, dramatic growth but it can just as easily cause quick, catastrophic failure. Soil type mediums are much more forgiving.
Thanks!! :idea:
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
So now im a little confused. i had a root rot or what was more like stem rot at the root ball of my flowering plants. I nursed them to harvest and got lucky with a couple of them.

I worry that my mothers have it. They seem to be doing well but if they have it my clones are probably doomed. Or are they ?

Can i use clorox or not ?

And if so, how much ?
The first thing you do is cut past (and out) the diseased tissue. Then treat.
 

Maitreyah

Member
So I bought a chlorine test kit (strips) 0 -10 PPM.

I added about 30ml to 45 gallon reservoir and basically no reading, I ultimatly had to add 100 + ml and then I received a 1 PPM reading but only for about 5 or 10 minutes then not detectable again.

So is it oxidizing my nutrients that quick or what am i not understanding about this. I thought I should be able to have a residuale 1 PPM level but OMG how much would that require?

I then tool just 25ml to a 55 gallons of clean water and it retained a residual of 2 PPM for over a day so far??

Please explain someone....
I'm dealing with the same issue, seems like I'm adding alot of clorox to just get 1ppm and it doesnt last long in the system probably from all the aeration..
So I'm with ya on having this explained by someone, dont want to get too crazy with the bleach :-?
 

RickWhite

Well-Known Member
Update:

I am now working with 2nd generation clones taken from lightly infected plants and they are still struggling during cloning. I don't know if survival rate will ever be what it was.

For now, I suggest starting with way more clones than you wish to keep.
 
Fatman, is the chlorine solution also safe to use in a cloner before the roots have formed? should I use a lighter solution in that case?
 

smokedup12

Active Member
K been following this post for a while, had a pytium maybe water mold problem. White snot floating in rez and airstone eventually getting on the roots. The roots would then be so covered in snot they would brown and die. I checked light leaks, montered temps, added h202, bleach, root excelerator, plantacilan. cleaning rez and roots constantly with nothing working. I would say about 70 percent infected in my dwc system. Finaly ran into a product called Guardian Angel. Shit works wonders. Bleach seemed to work alright but the out break was so bad it just couldnt stop it. My plants made a "FULL" recovery within the last few weeks of flower. ill have a few pics soon.
 

smokedup12

Active Member
Hard to tell but all the above roots were blacked and root rotted. gardian angel was able to recover the plants and by the end of flower was brand new white roots that were not effected at all by the snot.

Highly reccomend for anyone fighting pythium, white snot, water mold
 

Attachments

Coals

Active Member
To kill a pythium infection 2ppm chlorine is required with a second dosage 30 min after the initial doseage.

Pythium is commonly carried by fungus gnats, and beneficials will not kill a pythium infection like some nutrient companies would like you to beleive. They simply compete for food and can help to keep pythium in check.

Heres some good reading:

http://www.agf.gov.bc.ca/cropprot/pythium.htm

check out all the different kinds of pythium!
 

SnOoPXIV

Active Member
sometimes its because of your root temps its a common newb mistake am probaly guessing your res temps is below 70f try getting a water chiller and keep the res temp between 65f and 68f
 

SnOoPXIV

Active Member
gets some azamax it should clear Pythium up
To kill a pythium infection 2ppm chlorine is required with a second dosage 30 min after the initial doseage.

Pythium is commonly carried by fungus gnats, and beneficials will not kill a pythium infection like some nutrient companies would like you to beleive. They simply compete for food and can help to keep pythium in check.

Heres some good reading:

http://www.agf.gov.bc.ca/cropprot/pythium.htm

check out all the different kinds of pythium!
 

Cissy

Active Member
Rather than telling us to add 2 or 4 PPM to our reservoirs, would any of you know how much bleach would be needed per gallon in order to raise it roughly 2-4 PPM? As in ____ML, rather than just suggesting we add a "few drops". I have a large reservoir and I don't want to sit there counting hundreds of drops. lol

Also, how often do we add it? Just one time or do we need a maintenance dose?

ty
 

doctorD2

Member
I have a flower and veg room with flood & drain tables, 2 separate 40 gallons res. I had a killer case of root rot, after frantic research I decided to just add 12 oz. of H2O2 and fresh R/O water to my veg res. after flushing with florakleen. It did not kill anything! and the rumors that it kills is crap, The vegging plants recovered in a week with white roots. I replaced water with mild nutes and first time using Great White beneficial bacteria, this shit rocks!!!! Plants have come back and now I have zero problems in both Veg and flower rooms. I use AN nutes 1 and 2 for both rooms but sensizyme in flower res. while Great white in Veg. Kickin Ass!!!!!!!! The cause of root rot was most likely over watering, PH, and strong nutes! cut watering in 1/2 now roots race to find moisture.
 
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