Late flower deficiencie help pics

Slow Bud growth week 7 looking for help. I'm using cali magic at 200 PPM so I don't know if it's Calcium deficiency on using reverse osmosis water dwc.
It's also not eating ppm's go from 400 to 550 within a day or two. I've noticed the pH drop drastically from 6.2 to hi fours low fives over night.
 

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macsnax

Well-Known Member
For some reason I can't expand your pics. But from pics 3 & 4 it looks like it.... Like I said though I can't see all that well.
 
For some reason I can't expand your pics. But from pics 3 & 4 it looks like it.... Like I said though I can't see all that well.
Thanks anyway I appreciate the help it's Moxie seeds lemon OG I'm already using 200 PPM of calimagic do you think it's a toxicity and not a deficiency like I'm using too much cali magic. I had the same thing happened to my blue dream and I never figured out what it was. I PH to 6.0 6.1 or 6.2 and give lots of cow mad because I heard that's what ogZ like
 

macsnax

Well-Known Member
I don't know hydro that well. My advice is limited, I just came across this in the "new post" section. I wish I could be more help. Nothing eats at me worse than a problem I can't figure out. I'm sure a hydro vet will chime in.
 

gxsmit8

Well-Known Member
Thanks anyway I appreciate the help it's Moxie seeds lemon OG I'm already using 200 PPM of calimagic do you think it's a toxicity and not a deficiency like I'm using too much cali magic. I had the same thing happened to my blue dream and I never figured out what it was. I PH to 6.0 6.1 or 6.2 and give lots of cow mad because I heard that's what ogZ like
i would say ur ph is too high and is calcium defeciency, in hydro plants wont take in cal when ph above 6.2, or at least thats my experience
 

FennarioMike

Well-Known Member
When I mix cali magic to instruction, I get about 400 ppm on the 700 scale. I'm thinking you're on the deficient end.

This pics look like classic ca/mg deficiency.

Mix silica first, then ca/mg, then nutes - then adjust pH to 5.8 for DWC.
 
The plant will not eat I did a rez change last night at 5.8 ph Cal Mag at 100 ppm and AN a&b 50 ppm total 150 ppm then checked it this morning and it said 180 ppm 6.5ph
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
The plant will not eat I did a rez change last night at 5.8 ph Cal Mag at 100 ppm and AN a&b 50 ppm total 150 ppm then checked it this morning and it said 180 ppm 6.5ph
have you tried a 24hr flush? i've had a few dwc plants that kinda get stuck like yours. after the flush, they usually start eating again.
 
have you tried a 24hr flush? i've had a few dwc plants that kinda get stuck like yours. after the flush, they usually start eating again.
Last week I did a 2 hour flush with clearex recommended dosage. That didn't work. Yesterday I started off with a very low PPM Cal Mag and base nutrients 150 ppm tonight at 12 p.m. will be 24 hours hopefully it starts eating sometime soon because I only have one week after this one. It's an 8-week strain because I ran into this problem will it finish in 8 weeks or would I have to go longer
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Is this just a few lower leaves or something as the plant looks great overall.

I've read a few threads about people's plants going to crap after using clearex. Don't know why anyone would want to do that.

All the DWC I've done the pH will climb to about 6.2 then I'd knock it back to about 5.4 when I topped up and let it creep up again.
 
Its the leaves more closest to the light very few at the bottom but there are some at the bottom. Today is the end of a 24-hour flush with pure water & 100 PPM of Cal Mag and 50 PPM of advanced nutrients a & b. I didn't use the clearex this time
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
You are planning to raise the ppm of the nutes aren't you? CalMag is not a magic bullet as many here seem to think.

I once did a side by side grow in DWC with two tubs full of plants. One tub never got a nute change for the whole grow and the other got two complete changes. The one that was never changed did as good or better than the one that did so now I change once after the stretch and all I do is drain and refill with fresh flowering nutes. When I'm about a week or two from the chop I drain out enough nutes and top up with RO water so I have about 300ppm left. I tent to harvest all the big stuff near the top and then let the stuff lower down green up and ripen a bit more before finishing them off and they need a bit of food for that. A long drying period with a slow cure gives a nice smooth smoking product.
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
I once did a side by side grow in DWC with two tubs full of plants.
i've read about alot of peeps that do the same thing w/o changing for the whole grow.

explain somehting: how does the NPK not get out of whack? it seems like you'd have too much N at some point and too little P etc. as the plant goes thru it's flower cycle.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
explain somehting: how does the NPK not get out of whack? it seems like you'd have too much N at some point and too little P etc. as the plant goes thru it's flower cycle.
I just make sure that there's some of everything in there so the plant can take what it needs. People grow decent plants using 20-20-20 dry ferts and you can bet that's not perfect but there is enough of everything so the plants grow fine. Things like N deficiency show up so fast it's easy to correct for it. I just kind of mentally adjust what I give them knowing what they will need according to their stage of growth. For a nOOb it probably won't work so good but I grew my first buds in 1978 and as an avid reader and grower I've learned a hell of a lot since then. :)

Almost every grow I do has some level of experimentation going on and from each I learn a little more. Reading and participating in the forums adds to that. The last couple of grows including this one I've been experimenting with using a 50/50 mix of ProMix HP that has no nutes and ProMix potting soil or their Veg and Herb mix that has quite a bit of organic nutes. Feeding with AN 2 - part and 3 - part nutes Works OK but no where's near the yields I have always got with DWC so the plan now is to build two RDWC setups this fall to have one on each side of a 4x8 grow space that will be used strictly for flowering. One side will have nutes appropriate for early flowering and the stretch while the other side will be using later flowering nute mixes. My current grow room will be used to veg the plants for transfer to the flowering room.

One thing I can say with certainty is there is no good reason to change nutes every freakin week for the first month or more after putting clones in hydro. They barely eat anything at first so all you accomplish is making whoever is selling the nures richer. As they get bigger and the ppm drops or you want to raise the ppm just measure out smaller amounts of nutes in the same ratio you would use for a new batch and add that to your pail/tub/reservoir until your target ppm is reached.

For any nOObs just starting in hydro get the pH Perfect nutes and use RO water for a care-free grow. The base nutes aren't going to cost much if any more than GH and you won't be making Miracle-Gro/Mon$anto richer. A liter each of the 3 - part will grow you a couple pounds of pot at least for around $60. I recently bought the 4L jugs of each for $120 for all 3. Rhino Skin for silica and Big Bud are the only two supplements from AN I use. I do want to try their Bud Factor X tho as a couple bigger growers I know swear by it. Any old CalMag will do and you need very little of that. Some epsom salts once in a while and in late flowering will supply some extra S and Mg for pennies.

:peace:
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
The plant will not eat I did a rez change last night at 5.8 ph Cal Mag at 100 ppm and AN a&b 50 ppm total 150 ppm then checked it this morning and it said 180 ppm 6.5ph
Did yuo pH the water straight out of the tap?
While it is under pressure in the pipes it can hold more CO2, being an acid this brings the pH down. When you pour it in a bucket and let it stand for a while the pH will increase as the CO2 gasses off.
If you pH the water as it comes out, it may bounce up in the process.

You could use a trick from the aquarium trade, get a secondhand CO2 bottle and regulators, a Milwaukee or similar pH controller and use CO2 to adjust pH in your res automatically.
 
You are planning to raise the ppm of the nutes aren't you? CalMag is not a magic bullet as many here seem to think.

I once did a side by side grow in DWC with two tubs full of plants. One tub never got a nute change for the whole grow and the other got two complete changes. The one that was never changed did as good or better than the one that did so now I change once after the stretch and all I do is drain and refill with fresh flowering nutes. When I'm about a week or two from the chop I drain out enough nutes and top up with RO water so I have about 300ppm left. I tent to harvest all the big stuff near the top and then let the stuff lower down green up and ripen a bit more before finishing them off and they need a bit of food for that. A long drying period with a slow cure gives a nice smooth smoking product.
Awesome
 
Did yuo pH the water straight out of the tap?
While it is under pressure in the pipes it can hold more CO2, being an acid this brings the pH down. When you pour it in a bucket and let it stand for a while the pH will increase as the CO2 gasses off.
If you pH the water as it comes out, it may bounce up in the process.

You could use a trick from the aquarium trade, get a secondhand CO2 bottle and regulators, a Milwaukee or similar pH controller and use CO2 to adjust pH in your res automatically.
I use a reverse osmosis filter 0 ppm
 
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