LEC - Light-Emitting Ceramic

rkymtnman

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
How long was each ON cycle on your timer when running these lights?
Click to expand...
rkymtnman said:
day 1: i had it on for an hour. came in to take a peek and the 2 closest to it were droopy and the leaves had already got a leathery look to them. DOH!

i tried going down to 15 mins jsut a few times a day which was better. but the 2 plants on the opposite side weren't getting any UV so i backed up and punted and got the 2 footer instead and suspended it . much even coverage now
Click to expand...
i just flipped to 12/12 on this grow so i'm thinking 15 mins on during the 4 hours a day (the middle of 12/12) where the sun puts off the most uv. i still haven't got it dialed in yet.

my near disaster with the 4 footer was last grow. should be better now that it is suspended and 2 ft from canopy
 
rkymtnman

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
I bet!

@RM3 said they were no joke and I believe him.
Click to expand...
true dat!

i'm curious if anybody has tried the uv timing to be more like the Sun where they tell you don't go out between 10am and 2pm as it'sthe highest uv output? start at maybe a couple minutes for each of the 4 hours and work up to 15 mins in that same 4 hour window.

so much to try, so little time!
 
MichiganMedGrower

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
MeGaKiLlErMaN said:
I can relate with the last part, now that it's 12/12 I'm like.. Well I have to stay up till 10pm or get up before 10am lol which works well with my work schedule.

I want to have the most efficient flower room possible. So as I stated g/W is somewhat important for myself as it demonstrates how much I get from the power I used. I've only ever Veged for just short of 2 months at my longest but I did not see much of a difference from that and 1 month. I'll check some more into the longer veg times.

Push for yield on good genetics and I think you will be quite happy, you get great results and your patience will love it. Mine prefer Pineapple Express, OG Kush, GG#4, and soon Dark Plasma I would imagine.
Click to expand...
my yield goes up the better I water only when they need it and feed as close to their full needs without using too much. And I believe proper transplanting is key. I can transplant with no stress now. New nodes grow in a few hours after.

And maximizing the light footprint and canopy height makes a huge difference in yield. I never try to stretch their light and space. And never too close either.

But everything I do is time consuming. Time wasting even. I only do this now though. If I had a day job I would have to compromise some of my technique.

Hard to believe this but I am mostly feeding half as much to plants literally twice as productive. They looked good before but now they express more potency flavor smell and size.

Better root ball. Better uptake. Bigger healthier plant results.

Way more improvement than lighting or additives.

Of the 5 plants that I watered/fed last night only 3 got the same nute mixture. And they all got individual gallons mixed and their runoff removed and checked right away.

And they all needed their stands adjusted for height.

Honestly if the pot didn't keep getting better it is getting rediculious.
 
MichiganMedGrower

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
There are different types of 315W CMH lamps out there. Some are open rated and some are NOT. DO NOT use non open rated lamps in open fixtures!

UV output is negligible with any of these options; the added blue is responsible for the extra frost on these.

If you wanna run UV, you know who to talk to about supplemental lighting!
Click to expand...
Yes you wanna look to any horticultural department that studies indoor lighting at a university. The science of uv and plants has been well known for years.

And according to the data. The added blue only helped a little. The "little" uv all the way through flowering in the room is enough to make a difference. The blue light helps more with terpenes and leaf health. The smell and flavor improvement was noticed immediately. But it is not known to increase thc no matter what Internet hobbiest says so.
 
MichiganMedGrower

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
About added uv. Many commercial marijuana grows use finishing lamps in place of their regular De HPS for the last 2 weeks.

The lamps are usually a high color temp and include some uv. It does not take much to get the increase.

This has shown the increase in terps and up to 4% more potency.

Using them longer has not shown additional improvement.
 
MeGaKiLlErMaN

MeGaKiLlErMaN

Well-Known Member
MichiganMedGrower said:
my yield goes up the better I water only when they need it and feed as close to their full needs without using too much. And I believe proper transplanting is key. I can transplant with no stress now. New nodes grow in a few hours after.

And maximizing the light footprint and canopy height makes a huge difference in yield. I never try to stretch their light and space. And never too close either.

But everything I do is time consuming. Time wasting even. I only do this now though. If I had a day job I would have to compromise some of my technique.

Hard to believe this but I am mostly feeding half as much to plants literally twice as productive. They looked good before but now they express more potency flavor smell and size.

Better root ball. Better uptake. Bigger healthier plant results.

Way more improvement than lighting or additives.

Of the 5 plants that I watered/fed last night only 3 got the same nute mixture. And they all got individual gallons mixed and their runoff removed and checked right away.

And they all needed their stands adjusted for height.

Honestly if the pot didn't keep getting better it is getting rediculious.
Click to expand...
I understand what you're doing however I grow in hydro and only add what the plants take up. This way they don't go deficient but also they only take up what they need and don't get burnt.

Same concept I think but hydro uses less water and is a lot less labor. Auto top off with ones RO water and just add nutes to the level required.
 
MichiganMedGrower

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
MeGaKiLlErMaN said:
I understand what you're doing however I grow in hydro and only add what the plants take up. This way they don't go deficient but also they only take up what they need and don't get burnt.

Same concept I think but hydro uses less water and is a lot less labor. Auto top off with ones RO water and just add nutes to the level required.
Click to expand...
I understand. But I could never grow all these different strains like I do with full hydro. Hand watered hydro like grow stones could work but then I would miss my organic base.

And I am positive plants benefit from a large array of trace elements. Much larger than fertilizer itself can have.

Do use use humic or seaweed in any form?
 
MichiganMedGrower

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
rkymtnman said:
they really should be properly labeled then. lol. i see the difference now. much more yellow on the left for sure.

the sunsystem lec has a vertical bulb orientation right?
Click to expand...
Sorry for my error. :-)

And yes the 315 hangs vertical. Growers house carries a Galaxy dimmable ballast and a new remote sun system reflector now at a competetive price.

Here is a pic from when I was installing it.

image.png
 
MeGaKiLlErMaN

MeGaKiLlErMaN

Well-Known Member
MichiganMedGrower said:
I understand. But I could never grow all these different strains like I do with full hydro. Hand watered hydro like grow stones could work but then I would miss my organic base.

And I am positive plants benefit from a large array of trace elements. Much larger than fertilizer itself can have.

Do use use humic or seaweed in any form?
Click to expand...
Nope I keep it simple, MaxiGrow Series, Calmag (AN), and Mammoth P. that only changed it up recently for the P. But it makes a huge difference.
 
MichiganMedGrower

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
Johnny Lawrence said:
Why not? I've run multi strain rooms before.


Like?
Click to expand...
There are hundreds of trace elements that we know of in organic matter like seaweed and rock dust and such. There are a max of 16 in chemical feed. And none in a nuetral mix.

The medical testing is proving that more elements and even more variety of even nitrogen sources can effect the cannabanoid and terpene content.

I did all this research on my old computer and would have to start re researching to find all the links I had saved but the info is all out there.

For instance they are finding that manganese affects cbd content and another trace element increases thc in their nutrient tests. And it is not sulfer.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top