Let's play Name That Deficiency!!

petert

Well-Known Member
ive got 3-4 plants showing this nastiness in a grow area with 17 plants. The other plants are green and lush.. I've combed over the plants with a 30x and 60x hand held scope and don't see the borg anywhere.
I'm thinking it's a micro nutrient deficiency.. but they are getting what the other 13-14 plants are getting!
They're in native soil that's been amended, and to this point I've only given them some "One Shot" Nectar for the Gods" and water.
The two pics are from a Lemon OG and Bubba's GiftIMG_0125.JPGIMG_0125.JPG
 

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petert

Well-Known Member
I would be checking my water supply,something is lockedout lots of purple in the first pics
I'll double check.. but my water supply is farming irrigation water directly from a river, so it can fluctuate, but the PH usually runs between 6.2 -6.6.

And why only 3-4 plants and not all of them?
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
pH too high locking out micros even if theyre there, which could lead to more problems along the lines of overdose on some, under on others, balance off no access to micros.

or if these are different strain from the good plants, or patch, maybe these like lower pH, or pH is fine and these strains just want more micros, or both, they are connected.

/gal
4tbsp WormCastings
1tbsp KelpMeal
1tsp sucanat or 1tsp Molasses

and if you have it extra boost of micros++
1tbsp AlfalfaMeal

or use AlfalfaMeal and not the KelpMeal, I do both.

if you have
1tsp RockDust or Azomite. GlacialRockDust#1, preferred.

bubble for 24hrs-48hrs max
no dilution
Foliar all plants with it
soil drench problem plants.

if soil pH is ussue like mentioned, full light dusting over problem plant with DolomiteLime powder
every 3-4 weeks scratched in, watered in.

Top dress problem plants with double dose handfuls of wormcastings, scratched in at their base.
(This will add humus to help rebuild balance, and add micronutrients etc.)

(Used up ingredients from tea brew bag/nylon/cheescloth, add to base of problem plants.)

Hope this helps.

:joint:
 
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norcal mmj

Well-Known Member
They are right, deficiencies start at the bottom and on old fan leafs. Lock out, over fertilization or some kind of stress is causing the problem.
 

MMJ Dreaming 99

Well-Known Member
If you can, buy a cheap microscop or microscope phone ap.

I thought I had a nute defec. Ran the microscope and it was russet mites. They are invisble to the naked eye. I beat the little bastards and brought it in but caused damage. Always check under your leaves.
 

petert

Well-Known Member
If you can, buy a cheap microscop or microscope phone ap.

I thought I had a nute defec. Ran the microscope and it was russet mites. They are invisble to the naked eye. I beat the little bastards and brought it in but caused damage. Always check under your leaves.

I've dealt with Russets before. I'll probably deal with them again!

I did a Herculean Harvest flush water PH'd to 6.4
Will do johnie's foliar spray ( thanks for that advise)
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
I've dealt with Russets before. I'll probably deal with them again!

I did a Herculean Harvest flush water PH'd to 6.4
Will do johnie's foliar spray ( thanks for that advise)
To be absolutely thorough continued from my last post, it may not be happy news, but this foliar spray is most llikely not a one hit wonder fixer upper, and that's why I recommended a nice top dressing of worm castings also an attack from all fronts and watering in left over tea brew as well. In the state those plants are in, I would do this foliar as a regimen a few times in a row, since it could take 48hrs to brew, I would do it a few times back to back when brew is ready until the plants are where you want them.(I have never burned anything with this but still, some people are not so precise with measurements so I will say it; Be careful that the 1tablespoon/gal for Alfalfa, and even Kelp, are not gone over, Alfalfa can be strong shit, and Kelp can be salty, and also strong. Later brews can change tbsp's to tsp's as you see them better with new growth and not needing as high dosage. Don't brew for too little time either, and brew in smallest amount of water possible with highest amount of air as possible, then dilute back to normal if you have to before using for the super oxygen at brew time, it will produce better end.) Organics is slower, gently, and more powerful in the end, works within plant processes, instead of forcefully against them, is my thought about that.
(edit--better light and more often than trying to hit them with something super strong, which allows for multiple applications without worry.)

Another suggestion could be a spray of some liquid kelp product, or micronutrient product in a bottle, but in my view, this is an inferior quick fix bandaid and you'll have issues again or need to keep using product always and doesn't build soil and plant health up as well as brewing it yourself in the presence of the other organisms and ingredients in the brew.
GoodLuck.
 
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MMJ Dreaming 99

Well-Known Member
Post#2 above,
that last pic.

Notice even the lower tops have the issue, even with big fan leaves as 'sun screen',
so it can't be from sunburn type thing. it's immobile micronutrient issue.
The cause,
??
The people I have seen who do well with outdoor - protect their roots from heat and sun burn with straw aeound root base and maun stalk.
 

petert

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the great advise Johnei and MMJDream!

On a shittie not "The Borg" has been detected in my Greenhouse!
The battle has begun!!
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
worm casting tea foliar spray can also help against the borg.. the leaves the borg suck juices from will be coated inside and out with organisms, and if lucky, organisms that will inhibit and push borg out. So many different orgasims in a tea brew, depending on so many factors including where ingredients came from, what worms were fed etc. type of compost, kelp ocean source etc. etc. and certain beneficial bugs can help, if they're in the brew who knows, why diversity when brewing is so important, for me. WormCasting foliar will also strengthen plant immune response so even if borg present, they won't make such an impact so fast and may leave from plant immune system alone pushing them out.(especially outdoors where other weaker plant treats can be close by for them without the unwanted microbial inoculation to their gut) GoodLuck.
 
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Johnei

Well-Known Member
There doesn't seem to be any long term or major mite damage on the leaves(in those photos) so my guess is deficiency and imbalance was there first and mites are attacking weakened not prime health plant/s. I don't think the chlorotic leaf issues up top were caused by mite damage.
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
sry to hijack the thread but i couldn't pm you @Johnei
by the way the first plant has zinc defficiency, fert lightly with some nute rich in zinc, for the second plant it's an iron defficiency, it is normal when that babe experiences rapid growth, if you can fix it by lightly adding some iron rich nute or just leave it, chances it stops by itself, look on your schedule for what could have caused this, flusht/ph fluctuation
good catch


the banding or stripes of yellow and green are zinc def or lockout from ph issues

im wondering how the original thread starter made out after a couple weeks
did you check the PH?

foliar feeding with micro nute mix a few times would help get you by until you get the ph corrected if that's what it be

for example peters s.t.e.m.

https://customhydronutrients.com/soluble-trace-element-mix-8-oz-p-796.html?cPath=1_50_51_32

dose at not more than 0.2 grams per gallon and spray
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
sry to hijack the thread but i couldn't pm you @Johnei
by the way the first plant has zinc defficiency, fert lightly with some nute rich in zinc, for the second plant it's an iron defficiency, it is normal when that babe experiences rapid growth, if you can fix it by lightly adding some iron rich nute or just leave it, chances it stops by itself, look on your schedule for what could have caused this, flusht/ph fluctuation
@Johnei is M.I.A
:cool:
 
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