Magnesium deficiency week 3-4 flower?

Raven121415

Well-Known Member
I am guessing this to be a mag deficiency, but would like to be certain before treating. Strains are Holy Grail Kush, Kandy Kush, and Euforia. I am in 5 gal buckets with soil that was recycled and reamended with rabbit poo bedding mix composted roughly 2 months into the soil prior to planting, Garden Tone was ammended into the soil prior to transplanting into 5 gal buckets from 1 gal pots. Vegged from seed roughly 8 weeks under 8 bulb 4' T5 until placed under 1000w HPS Oct. 4th. Plants are about 2'-2 1/2' wide and about 18"-24" tall. Transplanted into 5 gal buckets and added 2/3 cup Garden Tone on 9-11. Gave a banana peel tea around Oct. 6th. The big fan leaves on 1 Kandy girl went yellow all the way up and down the stalk. I top dressed again with 2/3 c Garden Toneand 1/4 c EWC on Tuesday working this into the top 1" or so of soil. My assumption is the K from the tea caused the mg to depleat quickly causing a def. Should I water with a tsp per gal water to give them a boost? Also, was going to reapply another banana peeland EWC aerated tea next week since I am only week 3-4 on most. The 1st pic is of the lightest one in color. Leaves began to droop like she was underwatered, then lightened in color. After the topdress color began toimprove, but the leaves began to curl up at the tips. Then yesterday after a water theleaves began to fold like a canoe. Thanks in advance for any advice or input.
 

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vostok

Well-Known Member
Unstable uncooked soil is my 'guess'

guess don't work tho

experience does

add some calmag to a spritz bottles hake with warm water and spray a plant

if it goes green in say 2 hours

you are correct

but my monies say otherwize!

if the above fails as thisi is unstable and organic

I'd replant in a dilute mix of foxfarm oc and 30% perlite

water well

no nutes ever

good luck
 

Raven121415

Well-Known Member
I mixed 1 tsp to a gallon of ro water and foliar sprayed while using a cooking spoon to block the buds to avoid spraying them and they seem to be turning around. Leaves are looking greener and I noticed my mylar was loose in that corner and flapping from the fan and I think it was causing a hotspot and causing heat stress.
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
I am guessing this to be a mag deficiency, but would like to be certain before treating. Strains are Holy Grail Kush, Kandy Kush, and Euforia. I am in 5 gal buckets with soil that was recycled and reamended with rabbit poo bedding mix composted roughly 2 months into the soil prior to planting, Garden Tone was ammended into the soil prior to transplanting into 5 gal buckets from 1 gal pots. Vegged from seed roughly 8 weeks under 8 bulb 4' T5 until placed under 1000w HPS Oct. 4th. Plants are about 2'-2 1/2' wide and about 18"-24" tall. Transplanted into 5 gal buckets and added 2/3 cup Garden Tone on 9-11. Gave a banana peel tea around Oct. 6th. The big fan leaves on 1 Kandy girl went yellow all the way up and down the stalk. I top dressed again with 2/3 c Garden Toneand 1/4 c EWC on Tuesday working this into the top 1" or so of soil. My assumption is the K from the tea caused the mg to depleat quickly causing a def. Should I water with a tsp per gal water to give them a boost? Also, was going to reapply another banana peeland EWC aerated tea next week since I am only week 3-4 on most. The 1st pic is of the lightest one in color. Leaves began to droop like she was underwatered, then lightened in color. After the topdress color began toimprove, but the leaves began to curl up at the tips. Then yesterday after a water theleaves began to fold like a canoe. Thanks in advance for any advice or input.
Hi, I have been using rabbit manure for a while now and recently I started to have my soil tested. Compost and manure usually run high in Potassium and Phosphorous, so using the banana peels didn't help you any. I have been having potassium toxicity and it looks like Mg def because K locks-out Mg. I found out that all I really needed was to cut the compost with Pro-Mix. When I got my soil tested, everything was high so I just needed a buffer and ProMix does not have fertilizer but it is PH'ed unlike peat moss. I would suggest cutting your compost with ProMix and get your aeration to 40-50%. I am back on track after several years of frustration. I used peat moss instead of Promix my first time and it depleted Ca, Mg, and threw my PH below minimum levels.

Funny story, I was using coco coir based worm castings. I had a sample of soil that I used before and after the grow, and the used soil was sky high on potassium and sodium. It took me a minute but I remembered that I used a healthy top-dressing of the EWC. I am going to switch to leaf mold compost for my worm bedding now. Our soil is high in potassium to begin with, so adding more throws it into K tox. Cheers!!!
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Also, the CEC values of my compost was in the 40's. Which means that it is way too far on the clay side. Aeration helped with that. I am running about 50% aeration now, it's just the chunky perlite because I cannot find pumice locally and it is crazy expensive to ship.

Let me know how that Kandy Kush turns out for you. I had it back in 2012 and it made my whole house smell like a skunk. When I bought another pack(fem) they were not as loud and seemed more kushy. I still have a pack of Regular that I have been holding for about 2yrs now...
 

Raven121415

Well-Known Member
Hi, I have been using rabbit manure for a while now and recently I started to have my soil tested. Compost and manure usually run high in Potassium and Phosphorous, so using the banana peels didn't help you any. I have been having potassium toxicity and it looks like Mg def because K locks-out Mg. I found out that all I really needed was to cut the compost with Pro-Mix. When I got my soil tested, everything was high so I just needed a buffer and ProMix does not have fertilizer but it is PH'ed unlike peat moss. I would suggest cutting your compost with ProMix and get your aeration to 40-50%. I am back on track after several years of frustration. I used peat moss instead of Promix my first time and it depleted Ca, Mg, and threw my PH below minimum levels.

Funny story, I was using coco coir based worm castings. I had a sample of soil that I used before and after the grow, and the used soil was sky high on potassium and sodium. It took me a minute but I remembered that I used a healthy top-dressing of the EWC. I am going to switch to leaf mold compost for my worm bedding now. Our soil is high in potassium to begin with, so adding more throws it into K tox. Cheers!!!
You are absolutely right. I learned this the hard way. After I foliar sprayed with the epsom I added another banana peel tea, and as I'm sure you can guess, the leafe curl came back and now is worse than last time. I also know now that I also have a P deficiency. I now know that I need to watch my balance of Ca, P, and K. I am just getting into organics and unfortunately followed another members ill advice on the banana tea. I was just trying to keep it simple with the Garden Tone and ro water origionally. I am now ending week 5 and my buds seem to have stopped growing. I am kinda at a loss as to where to fo from here as I cannot seem to find any "quick fix" for P deficiency.
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
You are absolutely right. I learned this the hard way. After I foliar sprayed with the epsom I added another banana peel tea, and as I'm sure you can guess, the leafe curl came back and now is worse than last time. I also know now that I also have a P deficiency. I now know that I need to watch my balance of Ca, P, and K. I am just getting into organics and unfortunately followed another members ill advice on the banana tea. I was just trying to keep it simple with the Garden Tone and ro water origionally. I am now ending week 5 and my buds seem to have stopped growing. I am kinda at a loss as to where to fo from here as I cannot seem to find any "quick fix" for P deficiency.
I hate guessing anymore, but I would assume that your P problem is more of a lock-out issue than a deficiency. I had to dilute my compost pretty good. I used a ratio of 1:1:1 of compost:ProMix:Perlite to get myself on track. Soil testing is only $25 at https://www.spectrumanalytic.com/.. I would stay away from their recommendations though, it is all stuff like copper sulfate, iron sulfate, and Calcium sulfate(gypsum). All of that sulfate drove my PH down to 5 and it had a high amount of calcium, so I couldn't adjust the PH. So, I ended up dumping the batch. I was low in trace minerals mostly, so I used Kelp the 2nd time, but this was not my rabbit compost...

My rabbit compost was great on everything but it had too much P and K. I freaked out and spent almost $1k on a pallet of soil from Build-a-Soil Modern mix w/ Fisy Oly compost. I ran a batch and had problems so I got it tested also. It also was high in PH, K, P, and low in trace elements. Really, my home-made rabbit compost was way closer than the store bought stuff. I have more that I started recently. ProMix is very expensive around here, so I am going to gather a lot more leaves this time around and maybe use organic feather meal. My rabbit manure was low in N and that was probably from leaching off in the compost.

I cant stress enough, you are most likely suffering from toxicity rather than deficiency! Clackmas Cootz method is low in P because he believes that P hinders the growth of fungus like the Myco. A good Myco population will transfer P to the root system and you can have less P in the soil that way...
 

Raven121415

Well-Known Member
I hate guessing anymore, but I would assume that your P problem is more of a lock-out issue than a deficiency. I had to dilute my compost pretty good. I used a ratio of 1:1:1 of compost:ProMix:Perlite to get myself on track. Soil testing is only $25 at https://www.spectrumanalytic.com/.. I would stay away from their recommendations though, it is all stuff like copper sulfate, iron sulfate, and Calcium sulfate(gypsum). All of that sulfate drove my PH down to 5 and it had a high amount of calcium, so I couldn't adjust the PH. So, I ended up dumping the batch. I was low in trace minerals mostly, so I used Kelp the 2nd time, but this was not my rabbit compost...

My rabbit compost was great on everything but it had too much P and K. I freaked out and spent almost $1k on a pallet of soil from Build-a-Soil Modern mix w/ Fisy Oly compost. I ran a batch and had problems so I got it tested also. It also was high in PH, K, P, and low in trace elements. Really, my home-made rabbit compost was way closer than the store bought stuff. I have more that I started recently. ProMix is very expensive around here, so I am going to gather a lot more leaves this time around and maybe use organic feather meal. My rabbit manure was low in N and that was probably from leaching off in the compost.

I cant stress enough, you are most likely suffering from toxicity rather than deficiency! Clackmas Cootz method is low in P because he believes that P hinders the growth of fungus like the Myco. A good Myco population will transfer P to the root system and you can have less P in the soil that way...
What do you feed your rabbits? I use very little commercial feed. Mostly fresh hay (timmothy dominant, rye grass, and alfalfa mix), and let the kids pick clover and stuff to feed them. We also feed them fress veggies from the garden as well. However, as it gets colder, they then are fed mostly commercial pellets and water with hay as a treat. Still mix in veggies occasionally, but most of the produce scraps from the store are going in compost and worm bins. I am trying to be as self sustainable as I can in a true organic cycle of life type of way. However, the store bought produce and feed pellets are not 100% organic.
 

Raven121415

Well-Known Member
I currently have seedlings going. My new soil mix I am going to try something like 3 parts Pro-Mix Ultimate Organic, 3 parts Perilite, 2 parts compost, 2 parts EWC, and 1 c Gypsum per cf. I am looking to add blood and bone meal, kelp meal, and soft rock phosphates for nute amendments. I currently have my seedlings in some cheap organic soil. It's supposed to be good stuff. Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss, Processed Pine Bark (I screened out the chunks), Processed Forrest Products and/or Composted Rice Hulls, Reed-Sedge Peat, Earthworm Castings, Dolamite Lime, and organic ferts. It's rated at 0.06-0.09-0.06 Derived from: Poultry Litter, Feather Meal, and Worm Castings. While my soil is cooking I will topdress and work into top 2-3" of currently used soil outside the dripline with Espoma Bio-Tone Starter Plus. It recommends 3/4 tbsp per qt of soil. I am hoping that will help me get through this next run with simple teas to aid along the way. I veg for quite a while and hope that my 10 gal pots will all be nice and cooked by the time these seedlings are ready for transplant.
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Still mix in veggies occasionally, but most of the produce scraps from the store are going in compost and worm bins.
I have been feeding the rabbits my veggie scraps and using the manure in the compost. I found out that my rabbit's favorite food is bananas, so that could account for some of the K issues. I usually have a lot of banana peels in my compost also... I really don't think that you will need ewc with compost and my compost is usually full of worms anyways. Just leave a way for the worms to get into the compost pile. Keep it covered with a tarp and they will show up in masses on rainy days.

Here is my last soil test. It is not the rabbit manure compost but it is from "Build-a-Soil" and it is no better than what I started with. The manure compost was near perfect in everything but P and K, which were at Toxic levels.
DSC00832.JPG


Here is my worm bin with the compost to the left behind the fence.
DSC00395.JPG
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I collected manure from a commercial rabbit farm to start my worm bin. I found that using rabbit bedding is better for composting. The worm population started to increase after I added leaves and hay to the worm bin. We have chickens, so I crush the egg shell and add it to here also. I found that egg shells crush easier after you bake them lol...DSC00369.JPG
 

Raven121415

Well-Known Member
I have been feeding the rabbits my veggie scraps and using the manure in the compost. I found out that my rabbit's favorite food is bananas, so that could account for some of the K issues. I usually have a lot of banana peels in my compost also... I really don't think that you will need ewc with compost and my compost is usually full of worms anyways. Just leave a way for the worms to get into the compost pile. Keep it covered with a tarp and they will show up in masses on rainy days.

Here is my last soil test. It is not the rabbit manure compost but it is from "Build-a-Soil" and it is no better than what I started with. The manure compost was near perfect in everything but P and K, which were at Toxic levels.
View attachment 4040357


Here is my worm bin with the compost to the left behind the fence.
View attachment 4040359
View attachment 4040369

I collected manure from a commercial rabbit farm to start my worm bin. I found that using rabbit bedding is better for composting. The worm population started to increase after I added leaves and hay to the worm bin. We have chickens, so I crush the egg shell and add it to here also. I found that egg shells crush easier after you bake them lol...View attachment 4040370
We have chickens and ducks also. I have been using the pine bedding from my brooder box to start my compost. I have that all in bins right now. I have only used egg shells, coffe grounds and filters, and produce scraps. I also added a bit of oyster shell I give my layers so it would have time to break down with the compost and be usable by the time my compost is finished since I have read it could take uo to a year for it to become usable. I am not really sure how well my bins will break down over the winter though as it has already gotten down to the low and mid 30's already.

Here are a few pics of my ladies now. They are like week 6-7 now. Going to go another 2-3 weeks I think. The other 3 are still a week-2 behind this 1.
 

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MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
I am looking to add blood and bone meal, kelp meal, and soft rock phosphates for nute amendments.
Drop the Rock Phosphate, it will cause some major problems lol... I had a real bad exp with this stuff. I had the best grow ever from my soil, then I recycle it and that is when I started having problems. It takes 12mo to start breaking down, so I was able to get a good 2 uses out of it before the rock P started breaking down. I also used greensand at the time, K was off the charts also because of it...
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
I had better luck when I was using the Nutrient kits from Build-a-soil. It was when I started adding greensand and rock phosphate that I started to F everything up.

Craft Blend weighs about 8.3 Ounces per cup

Ingredients all Equal by Weight:

  1. Thorvin Premium Kelp Meal
  2. Ahimsa Neem/Karanja Cake
  3. Alfalfa Meal
  4. CalPhos
  5. Camelina Meal
  6. Crustacean Meal
  7. Fish Meal
  8. 3x Fish Bone Meal
  9. Soybean Meal
  10. Sul-Po-Mag (Also Known as K-Mag or Langbeinite)
  11. Malted Barley Grains (3 Varieties)
  12. Azomite
  13. Basalt - Local Colorado
  14. Gypsum
  15. Oyster Flour
Adding up all of the Approximate NPK values published for these products from the manufacturer and then dividing by the amount of parts we end up with a very niceNPK guesstimate of 4-4-2. Once we get the blend tested we will publish actual results.

https://buildasoil.com/collections/amendments/products/buildasoil-craft-blend-nutrient-pack
 
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