Minisplit install help, quick question.

Let me begin by saying I may not be an HVAC tech but I have my BSME and am fully qualified. But this install doesn't make sense from what I was taught. Also I've always done all my own work. Over a dozens light controllers. I can read P&ID and so on.... I'm qualified lol

Now my snag Specifically involves the power. I have some kilmaire 4 ton heat pump units. The 48" tall ones. It's single phase and just goes to one evap. It comes pre charged, prevaccummed and with flared connections. I'm powering both units separately. So the outdoor will be a #6-2 wire to 60 amp fuse box. The outdoor unit max amp is 50. The instructions say to use a 55 amp breaker. I'm assuming for startup surge / overcurrent protection. My electric said this is fine...

Now, once I remove the access panel there's an array of terminals. The "remote" wires totally make sense. So does the indoor unit power and lineset install.

But the outdoor units power does not.

Instruction manual says to hook up to L1 L2 and ground. Fair enough. But I double check everything. On the other end of those terminals is factory 12 AWG wiring.

So I'm like wtf? Makes no sense. And I don't feel comfortable connecting the unit until I figure this out.

Now I can only see one side of the circuit board ATM.

If anyone's willing to help me with this just let me know and I'll p.m. you. I would feel much more comfortable.

Any help would be greatly appreciated guys.

I would hate to have to call an HVAC Tech. I prefer discretion. I don't need to compromise my location and have it become public knowledge like medicropper ya know.

Just let me know,

Peace, Love & Respect

Jay

Is it 220 or 110?

jayjay777 said:

Let me begin by saying I may not be an HVAC tech but I have my BSME and am fully qualified. But this install doesn't make sense from what I was taught. Also I've always done all my own work. Over a dozens light controllers. I can read P&ID and so on.... I'm qualified lol

Now my snag Specifically involves the power. I have some kilmaire 4 ton heat pump units. The 48" tall ones. It's single phase and just goes to one evap. It comes pre charged, prevaccummed and with flared connections. I'm powering both units separately. So the outdoor will be a #6-2 wire to 60 amp fuse box. The outdoor unit max amp is 50. The instructions say to use a 55 amp breaker. I'm assuming for startup surge / overcurrent protection. My electric said this is fine...

Now, once I remove the access panel there's an array of terminals. The "remote" wires totally make sense. So does the indoor unit power and lineset install.

But the outdoor units power does not.

Instruction manual says to hook up to L1 L2 and ground. Fair enough. But I double check everything. On the other end of those terminals is factory 12 AWG wiring.

So I'm like wtf? Makes no sense. And I don't feel comfortable connecting the unit until I figure this out.

Now I can only see one side of the circuit board ATM.

If anyone's willing to help me with this just let me know and I'll p.m. you. I would feel much more comfortable.

Any help would be greatly appreciated guys.

I would hate to have to call an HVAC Tech. I prefer discretion. I don't need to compromise my location and have it become public knowledge like medicropper ya know.

Just let me know,

Peace, Love & Respect

Jay

Click to expand...

make this super simple for u
do u have a high low pressure gauge and a pump able to suck out the lines
if the answer is yes then ........keep going
if the answer is no then do what u can and call a hvac guy (the final part is going to be releasesing the gas into the system if u do not have the gear from say BHO processing it is not worth u buying it for this 1 time use it is much cheaper to hire a hvac guy they do the steps and u are covered if anything happends in 6months )

It's all 240v. Makes no sense to me but i called manfacturer. They weren't able to give me answers in detail they just said to hook up a number 6 wire to L1 L2. So.... That's what I'm going to do lol...

N yes, I'm going to vacuum pump it myself. I got everything for $140 or do. Hvac guy wanted 200 per unit.

I got nylog for $10. Pump was $70. Gauges were $50 and 5/16 adapter...

I'm using it all and may just return it...

jayjay777 said:

It's all 240v. Makes no sense to me but i called manfacturer. They weren't able to give me answers in detail they just said to hook up a number 6 wire to L1 L2. So.... That's what I'm going to do lol...

N yes, I'm going to vacuum pump it myself. I got everything for $140 or do. Hvac guy wanted 200 per unit.

I got nylog for $10. Pump was $70. Gauges were $50 and 5/16 adapter...

I'm using it all and may just return it...

Click to expand...

u got a link for a cheap high low pressure gauge .........60 on amazon and a pump that is 729 to 1200


i got to ask the pump u are using a refrigant pump correct not just a simple purge pump even those are 99 to 250

I was told it doesn't matter if your vacuum pump is 2.5 or 9 cfh. Just get the line down to 500 microns....?

Yes it's a 410/134 pump.

But the pump has nothing to do with refrigerant. You release that after it's vacuumed to my understanding

when you opened the outside unit, is there terminals that read L1 and L2?
there should be those, then the terminals that connect the indoor and outdoor unit, usually 3 wires
can you post a pic of terminals?

does refrigerant smell kind of foul/sweet?

after sitting through a winter, something's off with this minisplit. seems to run fine, just smells more than i'd like so I shut it off without running it unattended for any period of time.

also, a pump down should not be necessary if your lines come pre charged.
as far as your breakers go, you use a 55 amp breaker that is recommended, you use a 60 amp disconnect box because they don't come in 50 amp, but you would use 50 amp fuses in the 60 amp box.

ovo said:

does refrigerant smell kind of foul/sweet?

after sitting through a winter, something's off with this minisplit. seems to run fine, just smells more than i'd like so I shut it off.

Click to expand...

usually from water sitting in the trough, grows algae. I would clean the indoor unit real good. then run it and check temps coming out after about 10 min.

Dr.Nick Riviera said:

usually from water sitting in the trough, grows algae. I would clean the indoor unit real good. then run it and check temps coming out after about 10 min.

Click to expand...

will do. thanks. haven't ever run this system but someone else did for several years

I found an HVAC guy who'll do them all for $300. Minus well let him do it. God bless Craigslist....

Also it said precharged and prevaccummed and preflared.

But what they meant was that the evap was vaccuumed prior to shipping. When I took off the plastic nuts air began to leak and I began to panic, I called them. They said that it will need vacuum pumped. The evap was done like that for quality purposes, like to ensure any for of moisture is in there...

But ya. L1,L2 is main power (50amps)
While L1(1) & L2(2) is power to evap. They said just use a 60 amp box and fuses as the evap pulls 2.5 amps.

What bothered me is all this wiring inside is 12#awg. But I guess a light controllers is the same way. No full of #6 wiring....

But the holes are for 1/2 conduit. Kinda hard to get #6-uf thru that plus the other wire so I "reamed" out the hole for 3/4" conduit. Looks and fits perfect. Almost done with them.

Only thing I did do wrong is anchor without drain. Oops! Gotta fix em lol. Smfh....

Also there's only 4 wires in my lineset.
L1,L2,S1,S2....

Theres no ground wire. So I'm gonna just ground it. Didn't make sense tho. I did consider powering evap separately but the company tech was very suggestive on this.

Also curious what would X,Y & E be for?

Makes sense...

Sort of....

I never heard of that to be honest.

I do know if you run an extensive length of wire you'll get a voltage drop.

The L1 and L2 are power the green is ground its 240v you dont need to use 6 gauge wire to connect the power. If you are you are using a 20a breaker you dont need anything bigger than 12 gauge wire
#6 wire is for 50-70A http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wire-gauges-d_419.html

qballizhere said:

The L1 and L2 are power the green is ground its 240v you dont need to use 6 gauge wire to connect the power. If you are you are using a 20a breaker you dont need anything bigger than 12 gauge wire
#6 wire is for 50-70A http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wire-gauges-d_419.html

Click to expand...

You misunderstood everything. Thank you tho.

I did S1 & S2 and just grounded to green screw.

Im almost positive that it is right,

But any input is greatly appreciated.

Peace Love n Respect

Jay

jayjay777 said:

View attachment 3970145

I did S1 & S2 and just grounded to green screw.

Im almost positive that it is right,

But any input is greatly appreciated.

Peace Love n Respect

Jay

Click to expand...

I only see 1 problem. You used the indoor unit ground wire for s1 and now the indoor unit is not grounded.
probably not a big deal, but it is the unit that makes water and probably should be grounded.

That's where I was confused.

Either I ground it the usual way and only use s1.

Or I ground to screws on both ends and use S1 & S2.

Not sure.

There were no installation directions, well they were but there very vague.

Inside there's also an X, Y & E.

I am assuming those terminals are for when you use multiple zones.

I don't know If S1 is on/off while s2 is for crank case heater.

I can't find much online for this specific unit.

If anyone can answer this I would really appreciate it.

Thanks guys.