My first Grandaddy Purp Grow (Not a noob NE more)

sublbc

Well-Known Member
Alright everybody,

I have posted here before when I was a noob and I felt that it would be better to give back to you all and update you with what I have done. I plan to complete my first Purple Grandaddy Grow (which will be my 5th overall) and will share all pics, specs and final dry weight of my grow. Pics that I have now are weak because of my shitty camera. I plan on getting high quality pics in future posts.

First, the setup:

2X (yes 2) - Deep H2O cultivation + drip feed systems

each includes:

HYDROHUT Deluxes 8 X 4 (7' tall) (for flowering)
15 X 5 gallon buckets with baskets (for 15 plants)
25 gallon res
3X 400W full spectrum MH lights
3X Sunleaves Aurora 6 reflectors
NK-2 sub pump
Sunleaves Air pump for 15 airstones
dedicated res air pump with 2 stones
3 X 6 inch oscillating ceiling fans (mounted in each corner)
2 X 6"inline fans (approx 310 CFM)
1 X analog photosensitive cycle-stat timer (for watering)

1X 4X4X7 HYDROHUT (Vegetative Growth room)

2 Sunblaze 44 CFL lighting arrays (4 bulbs each)
4 X 2 drainging tray
25 gallon res
air pump w/ 2 stones
NK2 sub pump
water heater (78 degree)
1X 19" oscillating fan
1X 4" inline fan
1X cloning hood (50 or so clone capacity)
1 X analog photosensitive cycle-stat timer (for watering)
3 X white 3 gallon square pots ( for 3 moms)
20X plant sites for vegetive plants

1X HYDROHUT (mini) Drying and curing room
1 X 4" inline fan

All of the fans are connected to a custom manifold which vents all of the air out of the room. This is essential for both heat and humidity control. Ambient temps never exceed 75 and humidity is 50% or below at all times.

Max temps in the Veg room are 80 with RH of <50%. Flowering rooms are a bit warmer usually maxing out at about 84 with good RH. To all of you starting out tring to go big, KEEP TEMPS AND HUMIDITY IN CHECK AT ALL TIMES!!!! Powder mildew, leaf damage and root rot is a motherfucker and can be avoided if you address your enviroment. I had to add a 12,500 BTU AC unit and a high velocity fan to get my shit in check. This has been the greatest upgrade I have made since I started this in January. Dont fuck with heat. Any consecutive days of temps over 90 will kill your shit or damage it heavily. Sad thing is that the damage may not be realised until days after things are corrected. Also, please do not try to aimlessly kill mildews and funguses with sprays if RH is your issue. Over spraying things like Bi-Carb, Serenade and other things will realy fuck up your plant especially the later you are in flowering. In fact do not even spray them with water if you can avoid it. Only spray when you need to! The only spray that I use is Messenger and Floramite (in the 2nd week to keep spider mites at bay) and I pray that the Flora mite will get me through the grow with only one application. Keeping your enviroment cool and dry is a great way to eliminate the need for all of these sprays. DO NOT LEARN THIS LESSON THE HARD WAY!

My setup is designed to be harvested every 30 days so each HH delux is set to 12/12 with the plants being started 30 days apart from one another. Evey room is doing something, be it vegging, starting clones or flowering. Having the seperate veggie room is key to making this setup work. I can keep 3 full sized mothers and 20 veggie plants. The best 15 are selected then moved into the flower room. The remaining 5 are then transfered to the outdoor garden :)

A SELECTIVE BREEDING program is huge when trying to acheive large yields and easy grows. Of my 40 clones, the best 20 are chosen to be taken from small rockwool cubes and transplanted to 4"X4"X4" cubes to be vegged. Of those 20 transplanted plants, the best 15 are selected to move on into the flowering room. NEVER put yourself in a situation where you are taking 100 clones to then flower into 100 plants. You are always going to have some plants that will not make the grade and it is expensive (especially indoors) to waste precious money and resources on flowering a shit plant. It will more than likely be over taken by other stronger plants and will cause you problems down the road. Only the fittest should have the right to flower which is why a selective breeding program is so important.

I just cut down my critical mass grow and now I am ready to start my PG grow. All tubing and water containers (including the res and the buckets) are to be cleaned with H2O2 before being re-assembeled. My grow medium for this grow is going to be a mixture of Coco and perlite. My previous grow was with Hydroton which had good results but I have been hearing that better yields and tastes can be achieved with Coco. THe main reason why I am going back is because of coco's ability to retain beneficial biologicals as well as nutrients for the plant to uptake. You also have to water it less and I think that the roots seem to mass up more effectively with Coco.

In order to avoid the coco falling through the bio basket I will be using wooven Coco baskets made by GH. These are neat little contraptions that will keep your DWC system safe from clogging. THey allow plenty of space for root droppage and I hope that they work as advertised. The remaining space in the bio basket will be filled with H2O2 rinsed hydroton.

1/2" tubing is used for the water return lines and the top feed drip system in the flower rooms while the veg is a more simple top feed drip system with run off recycle.

As far as nutes go I am using:

for Flower:
Botanicare's Pure Blend Pro Bloom (30ml per gallon)
Botanicars's Liquid Karma (12ml per gallon)
Fox Farm additives : Open Sesame, Beastie Bloomz, and Cha Ching
Cutting Edge Solutions : Hum Tea (when needed)
Hygrozyme : First 2 weeks only

for Veg:
Botanicare's Pure Blend Pro Grow (30 ml per gallon)
Botanicare's Liquid Karma (12 ml per gallon)
Hygrozyme
Hum Tea

I must say that I have become very good at vegging but could use a little help for the flowering process. THere are some things that I am going to try and would like some input from all of you.

First off, to get the DWC started, 30 gallons of pre mixed solution must be pumped in the bucket system with a 10 gallon res left over giving me a total of 40 gallons in the system. I plan on starting the bucket system on GROW nutes and the res on BLOOM nutes. I am doing this to avoid possible N defenciency as well as tring to avoid shock to my plants. Is this a good idea?

I also plan to add a 4th 400MH light to the system to give me more light and better yields while not going to overboard with the bills.

Like I said b4 please feel free to post. I will be getting a new camera in a day or so to give you all better pics.

See you all soon!

Sub
 

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sublbc

Well-Known Member
An FYI, please ignore the other post. I tried to edit the original and for whatever reason it made a duplicate. This post is the one that I will be building on and will contain the full context. Will be transplanting this afternoon so stay tuned.

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courtcourt420

Well-Known Member
So you have bred the purp. I love it. I've heard that grandaddy purp is just 2 bomb ass purps bred together, that true?. Ive got some baby purps and god buds right now. they're taking forever.
 

sublbc

Well-Known Member
Not sure about the breed since these clones were given to me. I just know that they are Grandaddy Purples. Popular strain in my area though that commands top dollar.
 

sublbc

Well-Known Member
Well just finished my transplants. 20 critical mass clones have been moved to the 4" rockwool cubes and the purple grandaddy's are now under the HID's.

To answer my own question about nutes in transition, Botanicare reccomends going with 1/2 Bloom and 1/2 Grow for the first week (15ml of each per gallon for a total of 30ml each).

I will add pics once I have totally finished everything. I need to do cleanup first and I also need to work on a drip line issue.

Thanks,

Sub
 

sublbc

Well-Known Member
Well the transplant is complete and the plants are looking great!!!! They have all turned up their leaves to draw closer to the light which is currently set at their maximum height. I will lower the light gradually until it reaches about 18 to 20" over the tops. This is done so that the plants can adapt to the HID lights after spending so much time under CFL's.

For all of you new growers using a DWC system with bio-buckets, I must reccomend that all of you change your air stones every grow round. After looking at them this time I was noticing a signifigant drop in water movement. This was caused by clogging in the stones. Getting lots of frothy air in your buckets is essential in root development and feeding. Ignoring this can cause rot and really sucks. It is worth it to spend the extra $2 per stone to get them all changed. A small price to pay to sleep at night. FYI I am using small air stones provided by Eco plus.

Also since I am using a single pump to power 15 buckets, I have decided to use a dedicated dual output mini pump to airiate the res. The only draw back to this is that you cannout monitor the res to see if your pump is working.

So far though it looks like the baskets are doing their job. There is almost no coco leaking into my water system.

Using Botanicare's Ready Grow (moisture formula) I currently have my waterings set for 0.5 minutes on and 4 hours off which gives me approx 4 waterings a day. I am not sure yet if I plan to increase the # of waterings or the duration so some input is welcomed from anyone who is doing a DWC similiar to mine. Just to let you know, I mixed in a little Hydroton into my coco to improve water retention. I didn't think it would hurt anything and I had a TON of Hydroton left over.

I will be adding Hum Tea soon but I have not done it yet because of a possibility of residual H2O2 in my system which may kill off some of my biologicals. I will be adding it directly to the plants tomorrow though since the H2O2 should have fully dissipated by then.

Got some pics below for you to see hope you all like them. I included some pics of my new Critical Mass clones that I just moved to the drip system and into their larger rookrool cubes.

Will post more pics again as things start to change.

Till then,

Sub
 

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