eugenedaily
Member
Like I said my leaves are turning yellow in flower and I'm trying to figure out what the problem is can somebody please help me
My leaves are turning yellow with brown spots in flower
- Thread starter eugenedaily
- Start date
greasemonkeymann
Well-Known Member
hmmm, could be a couple things, I've seen damage like that when the cation balance is off, usually from too much potassium from like a "flower" nutrient..
or it could be poor aeration, or too dense of soil..
or it could be overwatering too.
did you add any nutrient with a lot of potassium in it?
or any nutrients with abnormal amounts or lopsided ratios of magnesium?
i'd need more info to see if i have any advice for ya man
soil mix?
containers? proper drainage? any recent changes/nutrients?
eugenedaily
Member
The only thing I was using was tiger bloom and ph water around 6.5 I'm using fox farm ocean forest with perlite and the buckets drain
greasemonkeymann
Well-Known Member
ahhh i see....
how often and at what strength?
also it's not really organic man...
here is whats in it, i'd be betting on a cation issue more than likely.
it's also relatively funny that they have castings in there... like that's useful when it's anaerobic, sealed, and used in conjunction with chelating chemicals...
not bustin your balls man, more just pointing it out that it's sooooo obvious that hydro companies really don't understand or simply don't give a shit about how and why organics are used..
anyways...
the magnesium i'd be concerned with... not sure what planet they live on where the magnesium is used in larger amounts than the potassium..
or calcium either..
Ingredients: Calcium nitrate, magnesium nitrate, ammonium nitrate, ammonium phosphate, potassium phosphate, potassium nitrate, earthworm castings, Norwegian kelp, iron EDTA, zinc EDTA, manganese EDTA, copper EDTA, chelating agent, disodium ethylenediamine tetra acetate (EDTA), sodium borate and sodium molybdate.
greasemonkeymann
Well-Known Member
leach the soil mix.
see if there is any amount of dark runoff, it'd also potentially help if there is/was a cation imbalance or toxicity issue with the mag that is locking out other nutrients.
i need to know what is in your soil mix man...
any advice given without that piece of information is going to be a guess at best.
that being said my money is on a cation issue or an undissolved solids issue
eugenedaily
Member
The soil is just fox farm ocean forest and I have perlite mixed with it thats it and when I make my water to water them I use 5 gallon of ph water an an plastic spoon full of the tiger bloom. The plants are autoflowers. I read that they need less nutes I'm really just trying to learn this is my first grow
eugenedaily
Member
The last 2 waters have been just water I thought I might have been using too much nutes
iHearAll
Well-Known Member
did you recently have an over watering episode? or maybe a hot day? in my grows, if i have over watered and left a spill tray full, itll get all fucked looking and when the plant resumes normal the leaves will kinda die on the tips.
but really from my understanding, fox farm ocean floor is plenty strong to grow an auto through the finish. i have seen auto grows where people cut the FFOF with a base soil and perlite and STILL dont add anything else through harvest.
so, just water with plain pH'd water through the end and it should finish up fine. even if you have a few crap leaves come harvest you can just cut them out with scissors. bud should be fine smoke.
the key to auto grow was pot sizes, not soil strength.
but really from my understanding, fox farm ocean floor is plenty strong to grow an auto through the finish. i have seen auto grows where people cut the FFOF with a base soil and perlite and STILL dont add anything else through harvest.
so, just water with plain pH'd water through the end and it should finish up fine. even if you have a few crap leaves come harvest you can just cut them out with scissors. bud should be fine smoke.
the key to auto grow was pot sizes, not soil strength.
eugenedaily
Member
I get some days where it might get 85 87 in the tent I'm in texas I got a ac window unit running to it but some times it freezes up and doesnt blow as cold. And I had no idea about the pot size I just threw them in some 5 gallon buckets from lowes lol
greasemonkeymann
Well-Known Member
ahh, ok, so does that mean you were feeding at every water prior to that?
how long have they been in the 5 gallon?
and to be sure, and pardon the stupid question, but you did make drainage holes in that bucket right?
hopefully a bunch of them too?
I am fairly certain you are overfeeding them my man, a 5 gallon of FFOF should damn near get em to finish
Don't feel bad though, learn from it, and like anything apply that experience to the next grow.
i'd say probably 90% of new growers do the exact same thing, in fact i'd say it's the number one most common error
shit i see experienced growers do that alllll the time, probably a good 50% of the "problem with plants, please help" type posts are due to the fact that they are feeding lopsided chelated chemicals in an inert media with no buffering capability, and they not only feed too much, but too often..
funny thing is the most common "remedy" suggested to those is "add _____ or add ____"
always add, add, add...
eugenedaily
Member
I've been in the 5 gallon pots from the start
eugenedaily
Member
What size pot should I go with next time I will still be doing the auto flowers again
greasemonkeymann
Well-Known Member
you should try and hit the "reply" part when responding, otherwise it won't tell me what you are saying.
soo drainage holes?
and how often were you feeding?
eugenedaily
Member
Yea theres plenty of drain holes in each bucket atleast 10 in each one and I am watering every 3 days or so just when ever they seem dry no set schedule
greasemonkeymann
Well-Known Member
no not watering man, feeding.
how often are you feeding it the nutrients?
eugenedaily
Member
I was feeding then everytime I was watering
eugenedaily
Member
But the last 2 waters have been straight ph water my first thought was I was burning them
greasemonkeymann
Well-Known Member
ahh shit..
well, that's the problem then
nearly 100% certain.
you want to leach the media, like yesterday
run SMALL amounts of water through it, over the course of a day, at least three separate times.
i'd do that at least one time, and it should rebound in about 48-72 hrs or so.
do NOT water large amounts all at once.
the key with leaching the media is that you want to water very slowly, making sure the water drains through the areas you are watering
reason that is crucial is that a lot of water at once tends to not only displace the aeration, but it also goes to the sides of the container first and down the sides and out the drain holes before actually soaking the soil media.
in fact i use a turkey baster for this process
small amounts of water at a time.
observe the runoff, ideally it should be lightly colored or clear, NOT like tea
but alllll that magnesium is likely the problem, a cation imbalance/issue can fuck you good..
don't ask how i know this...
leaching the soil is a bit different than a normal watering though
a leaching is essentially a "washing" of the media, and you must do it with large amounts of run-off, done slowly over the course of a day.
after all that is finished it's advised to allow the plant to drain at an angle, that will ensure you aren't leaving the soil too wet.
So lean it against something, and put it in a drain catch or plate or whatnot
after it's not dripping its a good idea to put the plant near a fan gently blowing on it to help evaporate all that massive amount of water in it
depending on ambient humidity it may be also a good idea to lightly scrape away or simply agitate the surface soil to make sure it doesn't create a surface tension issue which can happen sometimes after large amounts of water is used (due to the smaller particles in the soil restricting as they dry)
make sense?
eugenedaily
Member
How much water do you think I should use per pot? And thank you very much for the information your sharing.
greasemonkeymann
Well-Known Member
another thing worth mentioning is that after a leaching it's not uncommon to need an application of a soluble form of nitrogen, mainly because nitrogen is easily washed away in a soil, and that's exactly what your goal is, to wash away nutrients.
so it's likely you'll need a il boost of it in a week or so, but don't add ANYTHING until you see improvement, which is to be expected in a couple days or so, and it'll be the new growth that will be an obvious different shade than the rest of the plant
once that growth is seen, and once it's observed as a lighter shade of green, then you can add a LITTLE nitrogen..
juuuuust a lil though man