Need some opinions please light burn?

neef

Well-Known Member
hello all!

I need input as to what causing a couple of my girls to look like the pics.

They are in coco fed the canna line at 700 ppm 5.7 ph, under a dimmable 1000 air cooled hood withoutt the glass running at 750 watts then turned up to 1000 for 6 hours of the light cycle (experiment, but ccouldnthat be the problem?) the only 2 plants that are showing these signs are on the outer edge of the tent.

Thanks,
Neef
 

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Johnei

Well-Known Member
Magnesium issue of some kind. Either there is none, or there is but it's locked out from some pH problem. That's what I see, only you know what you're feeding, how strong, how often, runoff or not, pH of water in, pH of runoff, etc. etc. somethin Mg related.

You actually have multiple issues not just Mg. is what I see. I think you have a pH issue. Final answer.

edit- Try raising your pH to 5.9/6.0 ish
 
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im4satori

Well-Known Member
I agree

id raise the ph and keep it between 6.0 to 6.5

the top is some kind of micro nute def for some reason

its hard to say it could be iron, zinc or manganese

give us a pic of the entire plant

your nutes

is that the canna coco a&b ?
how many mls per gallon?
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
Yeah, 6.0-6.5 is probably even better, I was being conservative, considering if it is a low pH condition, a little higher than usual to compensate right now would probably be best.
I concur.
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
ive read conflicting info on coco ph

many people say 5.5 to 6.0

but ive read in literature 6.0 to 6.5

since I don't grow in coco I don't usually debate it without personal experience
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
^EXACTLY!!!

I hear so much conflicting info out there on the proper coco pH also, exactly man, peeps doing 5.5 to 6.. and the 6 - 6.5 crew saying it;s fine. The few times I used coco, I used 6.1 pH and didn't chase it, worked out ok.
 

neef

Well-Known Member
I'm am feeding along with this schedule in pic. I'm in veg phase 2 just didn't include the canna boost. Came out to be about 700-750 don't remember exactly and I'm not by my trustee notebook. Ph of water + nutes is 5.7 but I've never measured the runoff as I top feed collect the waste and discard it. I'll measure it after today's feeding. From my research I figured the second pic was showing some kind of phosphorus deficiency. But I'm open to input.
 

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Johnei

Well-Known Member
Just some blahblah for ya.

2nd pic, you see how there is a banding apearence that is almost white blotches in between the veins like steps with the center line going up the leaf blade that is still dark, losing its color from the outside going in towards the middle but veins remaining green, then leaves gets dry at the edges and crumble, I'm looking mainly at, in the 2nd pic, the left most single leaf blade of that leaf. And the problem is on the older lower leaves and would move up when/if that leaf drops continuing to affect the larger leaves only. I beleive this is Mg deficiency, I am actually certain it is, but the cause, can be a few things, as mentioned, and cure I don't beleive is just dumping some Mg on them because you've got other shit goin on.

Then in 1st pic, that is some wierd shit, it's like a micronutrient deficiency at the same time only affecting the top of the plant, immobile, sticking with the newest leaves, this all tells me you have pH issue either just out of range, or an excess of nutrients that drove the pH out of range due to high salt content(salinity) then I read you use 5.7 in coco, and if salts are too much, or fed too often, and they built in the medium, this would drive pH down even further than 5.7, which I feel is already low. Then looking at some charts of nutrients and pH, where at certain pH certain elements are locked out, and other pH values they are available, Mg gets locked out at lower pH. It's all pointing me to advise you raise your pH that you use, and check the runoff pH and EC strength coming out the bottom, to see where things stand.

Not only do I want to just give insctruction like you hand someone a book and they just follow what it says, I'm trying to explain in depth my reasoning behind my assesment so you have an understanding where I'm coming from.

sorry for so much blahblah, that's just me. Is it the weed, I don't know. Probably.
:joint:
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
they definitely could use some food, your best bet maybe would be to mix up a 1/2 strength nutrient solution at pH6.1-6.2 and water them heavily flushing lots of extra solution through the pot and then cut some of that fresh 1/2 strength solution 50/50 with water, ph'd properly again if you need to, and give them a mist with it also, away from the hot lamps until they dry. I think this is your quick fix. then dont touch em for a while, no more water too soon.
 

neef

Well-Known Member
Johnei I appreciate the response and your time. Thanks I'll try that plan of attack and keep rui posted
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
No problem, helping to figure things out through pictures online is hard sometimes and can jump in all kinds of directions, but my last post I beleive is what will ultimately work for you.
Good luck.
 

714steadyeddie

Well-Known Member
hello all!

I need input as to what causing a couple of my girls to look like the pics.

They are in coco fed the canna line at 700 ppm 5.7 ph, under a dimmable 1000 air cooled hood withoutt the glass running at 750 watts then turned up to 1000 for 6 hours of the light cycle (experiment, but ccouldnthat be the problem?) the only 2 plants that are showing these signs are on the outer edge of the tent.

Thanks,
Neef
Ease up on the nutes but keep the same cal mag dose.

In my experience with coco it can handle ph swings 5.5-6.5 but I like to stay right at 5.9-6.1 seems to be the sweet spot. I ph and ppm every feed
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
Should I throw some molasses or white shark in for the micros?
I would just use the main base nutrients at half strength right now no matter what that EC comes to and flush threw to set pH in medium higher than the 5.7 you were feeding and it may even be lower than 5.7 pH coming out the bottom which is why we want lots of runoff with balanced nutrient mix to set the medium back up in optimal pH range and then 50/50 the mix (so will be 1/4strength) and mist with that same balanced main nutrient as well for a quicker response foliar application. Save that other stuff for after improvement happens in my opinion.

I would put any microbe product you want to use in a bucket of water with the molasses and bubble it with an aquarium air pump for 24-36hrs max then use it like that it will grow out the microbes to insane levels before application. ;) bucket/airpump bubble using pure water with no chlorine that would impede/kill the microbes. But later on.

(edit- Don't spray them with nutrient solution under the hot lamps, you don't want the light to shine into the water droplets and act like a magnifying glass on the water droplets and burn. Nutrient water has more chance of this happening than fresh water, but away from the lights until they dry and this won't happen.)
 
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neef

Well-Known Member
So I fed them a half solution of what's was listed under veg phase 2. Ended up being around 454 ppm at 6.14 ph and 20 degrees C. The runoff read as 508 ppm with 5.97 and 22 degrees C. We will see where that's takes us later today.
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
Hey man, the top wierd shit, I do indeed think it's light burn now no matter what I said before about maybe being some micro nutrient issue at the top, since then been researching learning more about it and just wanted to advise you to try n lift lights for a few days to deal with that issue up there and see if there is any improvement near the top of the plant. Is that wierd yellow banding thing at the top leaves only happening pretty much directly under the lights and nothing like that on the bottom lower leaves, the Mg issue down low with crusty brown is something else, not light burn. Feed them next time again the same strength and pH 6.1 and check runoff again, will tell a lot and your in and out ec and pH is so close and stable and at at a low level it's not too much twice in a row becazuse they need the food. This next watering will tell us wusup, having the 2 measurements this watering and next. This is my advise. Ok cu in a bit when they dry and ready for next watering.

They're hungry, and I think you have light burn. Final answer.

And the reason the light burn happens is because there is low food in the leaves to process the light energy and under strong intense lights what food IS in the leaf is used up very fast and can't replenish and produce chlorophyl fast enough to stay green, because they need nutrients. So when fed properly as I suggested to do twice in a row low dose to be careful before we knew for sure wusup, the lights can be lowered again.

This is the full picture of what I believe happened.
 
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Johnei

Well-Known Member
Between now and next watering I wold spray them with a 1/4 strength nutrient solution at proper pH, but not under the intense lights, put em back after they dry up and dont quick dry the foliar spray with a fan on them, wont absorb that way will just leave water spots. Everything else I said still stands.

Not drenched, just a full coverage all around the plant couple good mists of the solution. ;)
 

neef

Well-Known Member
Hey man, the top wierd shit, I do indeed think it's light burn now no matter what I said before about maybe being some micro nutrient issue at the top, since then been researching learning more about it and just wanted to advise you to try n lift lights for a few days to deal with that issue up there and see if there is any improvement near the top of the plant. Is that wierd yellow banding thing at the top leaves only happening pretty much directly under the lights and nothing like that on the bottom lower leaves, the Mg issue down low with crusty brown is something else, not light burn. Feed them next time again the same strength and pH 6.1 and check runoff again, will tell a lot and your in and out ec and pH is so close and stable and at at a low level it's not too much twice in a row becazuse they need the food. This next watering will tell us wusup, having the 2 measurements this watering and next. This is my advise. Ok cu in a bit when they dry and ready for next watering.

They're hungry, and I think you have light burn. Final answer.

And the reason the light burn happens is because there is low food in the leaves to process the light energy and under strong intense lights what food IS in the leaf is used up very fast and can't replenish and produce chlorophyl fast enough to stay green, because they need nutrients. So when fed properly as I suggested to do twice in a row low dose to be careful before we knew for sure wusup, the lights can be lowered again.

This is the full picture of what I believe happened.
I would agree with light burn due to malnourishment. There are soil pants (for a side by side comparison) that are closer to the light and aren't being burnt. The new growth on the supposed "light burn plants" looks get nice and green with no discoloration
 
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