Nevergood's high power garden

Godfather420

Well-Known Member
I have gotten use to it.
I never thought I would be using these guys a an example for why I am changing things some. I have read a bit on this, but have always ignored it and set everything to 50% humidity. Since I have been running CO2 and leds, the room is set to 83*F, but 50% humidity making my mini split and dehumidifier fight each other, both are 750w @120v and I am only running 1500w of light. I know if I don't have the dehu that high, neither turn on that often. So I am starting with 75% humidity for now.
I've been running my veg rooms ( MH) for years at 65-70) and flower rooms (MH and HPS) at 55-68 for years. My strains have NEVER responded as well to low humidity like others claim. I thought I was the only one for along time that new about VPD or at least that cared to look at the chart thats been around for ages. But It definitely increase the possible of PM and Botrytis. CAUTION!!!! You really need to have your environment in check when playing around with higher humidity's. A slight miscalculation such as setting your dehumidifier to 70 and not realizing that it kicks on at 75 and off at 70 can put you in a danger zone. 75 is dangerous (IMHO) to achieve why running sealed rooms because air exchanges typically don't take place. I use a misting system for around pools hooked-up to my filtered water that mist my room. 100% humidity in 20 seconds. I control it with my sentinel controller.

I run sealed rooms and it is possible to do this with success, but tread lightly :bigjoint:
 
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nevergoodenuf

Well-Known Member
Thanks GF, I am trying to keep it on the lower side of the VPD. At first I did have to play with the dehu settings, but my humidity/temp/co2 controller is old and the dials are as accurate as I would like. It gets tricky trying to get the humidity right when on a cold day, it takes the dehu to get the temps to the 80* or the lights have to be on an hour or more. I have another temp controller I might see if I can work into the equation. The dehu is hooked to the co2 on/off plug, co2 bottle is hooked to wall plug co2 controller and my fans are hooked to the humidity/temp/co2 controller. So the dehu shuts of at night along with the co2 and the fans take over for the dehumidifying.
 

89ers

Member
Do you follow VPD throughout flowering? I was considering it but I thought humidity should be a lot lower in flowering but according to the chart i should be around 65 humidity for a room temp of 75deg F and that seems kinda high.
 

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
How's the garden doing bud?
Where do you get your metal used to make your reflectors?
I need to make reflectors to go around my Amares & was hoping to get the shiny stuff rather then white aluminum. I have an 8' break & am good @ bending metal.
Thanks! Hope All's well.
 

nevergoodenuf

Well-Known Member
Sorry guys, I just haven't had the time or energy for this forum. Everything got so busy these last couple months that I lost my last run to PM. Long hours and I wasn't spraying good enough to control the spread. Ended up with the side I could see clean and clear of PM, but the back sides were still covered. I ended up throwing everything away.
The room never was finished after the small expansion and I had a bunch of smaller sheets of panda plastic tacked to the walls. Lots of places for bugs and mold to hide. The other is use was having things against the walls. It might have maximized my room but was harder to spray thoroughly and check for problems.
I was able to put up some panda plastic with minimal seam, plus it is stapled and glued now (single 10'x25' and 2 10'x10' sheets). I also didn't like my fan setup, so completely revised that. The intake (8" Hyperfan) is using the wall and studs as ducting and has a hepa filter at floor level. The air travels up the wall and exits at the top of the room. The exhaust is still pulling from the ceiling and out a carbon filter (another 8" Hyperfan) into the attic. Since the room can run sealed/CO2, I have also added a scrubber/UV-C disinfection light/dirt trap. Here I am also using the wall for ducting. The UV-C light is mounted mid wall and a 6' hyperfan and carbon filter up top. This is on every other hour. The intake/exhaust will be used with the CO2, but only to control humidity. I try not to use the dehumidifier if I don't have to (750w dehu for 1500w of light, not if I can help it). Since a $20 bottle of CO2 can last from 2+ to 4 weeks, it's no lose. When I used to use an 8" MaxCan Fan Pro and 8" booster, I was over 200watts. Now, with the fans turned down some for noise, this complete system of fans and UV light doesn't draw more than 150 watts.
The room will only be using 3 3'x3' trays and around 1500 total watts.
 

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nevergoodenuf

Well-Known Member
My too, thanks. I have a couple Bubba Kush almost ready to flip and should be getting GG4 in the other 2 3'x3' trays. I did want one more tray, but when I put it in there, it was just to crowded. I will just make each 3'x3' tray have 4'x4' net. Most likely 500-640w per tray.
 

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
Thank you guys! I'll check it out.
Sorry guys, I just haven't had the time or energy for this forum. Everything got so busy these last couple months that I lost my last run to PM. Long hours and I wasn't spraying good enough to control the spread. Ended up with the side I could see clean and clear of PM, but the back sides were still covered. I ended up throwing everything away.
The room never was finished after the small expansion and I had a bunch of smaller sheets of panda plastic tacked to the walls. Lots of places for bugs and mold to hide. The other is use was having things against the walls. It might have maximized my room but was harder to spray thoroughly and check for problems.
I was able to put up some panda plastic with minimal seam, plus it is stapled and glued now (single 10'x25' and 2 10'x10' sheets). I also didn't like my fan setup, so completely revised that. The intake (8" Hyperfan) is using the wall and studs as ducting and has a hepa filter at floor level. The air travels up the wall and exits at the top of the room. The exhaust is still pulling from the ceiling and out a carbon filter (another 8" Hyperfan) into the attic. Since the room can run sealed/CO2, I have also added a scrubber/UV-C disinfection light/dirt trap. Here I am also using the wall for ducting. The UV-C light is mounted mid wall and a 6' hyperfan and carbon filter up top. This is on every other hour. The intake/exhaust will be used with the CO2, but only to control humidity. I try not to use the dehumidifier if I don't have to (750w dehu for 1500w of light, not if I can help it). Since a $20 bottle of CO2 can last from 2+ to 4 weeks, it's no lose. When I used to use an 8" MaxCan Fan Pro and 8" booster, I was over 200watts. Now, with the fans turned down some for noise, this complete system of fans and UV light doesn't draw more than 150 watts.
The room will only be using 3 3'x3' trays and around 1500 total watts.
PM is terrible. I seemed to have cured the problem using Organicide Plant Dr. It's a systemic curative & preventative & is organic. Mono & Di-Potasium is known to have huge anti-fungal properties.
I treated my veg w/ it last wk & it removed the wart on my finger that's been there for the past 3-4 yrs. actually thinking about soaking my feet in it to rid this rot-foot I get seasonally.
I'm not a fan of Panda-Wrap on the walls. It creates condensation between the 2 I feel & like you said, traps unwanted stuff.
That Mini-split you got there could be your de-hu, keeping the room around 60% during lights on if you hook a condensate pump to it. That's what I did w/ mine & am doing now w/ my crappy stand-up AC's. (Couldn't get the mini-split installer over fast enough) I only use the de-hu during lights off & once my exhaust is set up I may not need it then either.
Hate my inefficient Stand-up AC's. Need 2600w (28,000BTU = 22,000 real BTU) to cool 4500 of LEDs. And that might not cut it in the summer.
If these led comp. would just make the drivers remote (out of the grow room) then LEDs would truly run cool. It's not the diodes or cobs killing us in a sealed room, it's the Mu-Fu drivers.
My hps ballasts stayed outside the room & I could run 6000+ w hps vented off 22,000BTU Stand-up (=18,000 real BTU's).
Well, best of luck on this next one. I found running the Ozone generator for 24hrs. In the sealed room W/O plants between runs will kill any floating spores.
 

randydj

Well-Known Member
Hybrid:

I hear this all of the time about drivers and heat! I have my drivers outside of the room on my DIY cob lights and the lights produce a lot of heat in fact 700 watts worth for 14 - 50 watt cobs. It is a misconception that leds do not produce heat - they do and guess what it is exactly the same amount as any other 700 watt source of light! It is a law of energy. In physics, the law of conservation of energy states that the total energy of an isolated system remains constant—it is said to be conserved over time. Energy can neither be created nor destroyed; rather, it transforms from one form to another. So if you put 700 watts of energy in a closed room eventually it will all be lost as heat because that is the only form of energy we let out of our rooms.

Now to why people think leds are cooler - they do not emit very much infrared light. We cannot see infrared light but we can sense it in the form of heat. We feel infrared and so do our plants. This is the reason we need to keep MH/HPS farther from our plants because they do produce more infrared. Infrared for the most part is wasted energy since other than warming the plant it is not very useful for photosynthesis. So with leds you can get more efficient light energy in the PAR range. But eventually all of that energy is going to leave the room as heat.
 

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
Hybrid:

I hear this all of the time about drivers and heat! I have my drivers outside of the room on my DIY cob lights and the lights produce a lot of heat in fact 700 watts worth for 14 - 50 watt cobs. It is a misconception that leds do not produce heat - they do and guess what it is exactly the same amount as any other 700 watt source of light! It is a law of energy. In physics, the law of conservation of energy states that the total energy of an isolated system remains constant—it is said to be conserved over time. Energy can neither be created nor destroyed; rather, it transforms from one form to another. So if you put 700 watts of energy in a closed room eventually it will all be lost as heat because that is the only form of energy we let out of our rooms.

Now to why people think leds are cooler - they do not emit very much infrared light. We cannot see infrared light but we can sense it in the form of heat. We feel infrared and so do our plants. This is the reason we need to keep MH/HPS farther from our plants because they do produce more infrared. Infrared for the most part is wasted energy since other than warming the plant it is not very useful for photosynthesis. So with leds you can get more efficient light energy in the PAR range. But eventually all of that energy is going to leave the room as heat.
True. Taking the drivers out would help allot though. Either that or venting the light, or both.
They produce about 1.5 x as much ambient heat as my vented hps. Being non-vented w/ drivers enclosed.
I feel IR has allot more to do w/ BIG bud production then some people think.
 
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randydj

Well-Known Member
Leds do put out some IR but not much. What a lot of led users do not realize is that they need to run their grow room 5°F to 7°F warmer with leds to makeup for the missing IR heat compared to HID lamps. This brings the canopy (leaf) temperature up to where it should be. Perhaps this is a contributing factor for smaller buds? My personal experience with HID is from many years ago and the genetic improvements since then make those past experiences invalid. I just got almost 1.4gpw on this grow so I don't see bud size as a problem with leds.
DSC00523.JPG DSC00534.JPG
Fast Bud Green Crack Auto
 

Godfather420

Well-Known Member
Thank you guys! I'll check it out.

PM is terrible. I seemed to have cured the problem using Organicide Plant Dr. It's a systemic curative & preventative & is organic. Mono & Di-Potasium is known to have huge anti-fungal properties.
I treated my veg w/ it last wk & it removed the wart on my finger that's been there for the past 3-4 yrs. actually thinking about soaking my feet in it to rid this rot-foot I get seasonally.
I'm not a fan of Panda-Wrap on the walls. It creates condensation between the 2 I feel & like you said, traps unwanted stuff.
That Mini-split you got there could be your de-hu, keeping the room around 60% during lights on if you hook a condensate pump to it. That's what I did w/ mine & am doing now w/ my crappy stand-up AC's. (Couldn't get the mini-split installer over fast enough) I only use the de-hu during lights off & once my exhaust is set up I may not need it then either.
Hate my inefficient Stand-up AC's. Need 2600w (28,000BTU = 22,000 real BTU) to cool 4500 of LEDs. And that might not cut it in the summer.
If these led comp. would just make the drivers remote (out of the grow room) then LEDs would truly run cool. It's not the diodes or cobs killing us in a sealed room, it's the Mu-Fu drivers.
My hps ballasts stayed outside the room & I could run 6000+ w hps vented off 22,000BTU Stand-up (=18,000 real BTU's).
Well, best of luck on this next one. I found running the Ozone generator for 24hrs. In the sealed room W/O plants between runs will kill any floating spores.
One of the Issues with building LED Fixtures is the fact that led''s are powered by dc current. Unfortunately this gets a lil expensive and inefficient sending long runs of dc power. But there is a way. Water-cooling! See sig below
 

Godfather420

Well-Known Member
Hybrid:

I hear this all of the time about drivers and heat! I have my drivers outside of the room on my DIY cob lights and the lights produce a lot of heat in fact 700 watts worth for 14 - 50 watt cobs. It is a misconception that leds do not produce heat - they do and guess what it is exactly the same amount as any other 700 watt source of light! It is a law of energy. In physics, the law of conservation of energy states that the total energy of an isolated system remains constant—it is said to be conserved over time. Energy can neither be created nor destroyed; rather, it transforms from one form to another. So if you put 700 watts of energy in a closed room eventually it will all be lost as heat because that is the only form of energy we let out of our rooms.

Now to why people think leds are cooler - they do not emit very much infrared light. We cannot see infrared light but we can sense it in the form of heat. We feel infrared and so do our plants. This is the reason we need to keep MH/HPS farther from our plants because they do produce more infrared. Infrared for the most part is wasted energy since other than warming the plant it is not very useful for photosynthesis. So with leds you can get more efficient light energy in the PAR range. But eventually all of that energy is going to leave the room as heat.
Hybrid:

I hear this all of the time about drivers and heat! I have my drivers outside of the room on my DIY cob lights and the lights produce a lot of heat in fact 700 watts worth for 14 - 50 watt cobs. It is a misconception that leds do not produce heat - they do and guess what it is exactly the same amount as any other 700 watt source of light! It is a law of energy. In physics, the law of conservation of energy states that the total energy of an isolated system remains constant—it is said to be conserved over time. Energy can neither be created nor destroyed; rather, it transforms from one form to another. So if you put 700 watts of energy in a closed room eventually it will all be lost as heat because that is the only form of energy we let out of our rooms.

Now to why people think leds are cooler - they do not emit very much infrared light. We cannot see infrared light but we can sense it in the form of heat. We feel infrared and so do our plants. This is the reason we need to keep MH/HPS farther from our plants because they do produce more infrared. Infrared for the most part is wasted energy since other than warming the plant it is not very useful for photosynthesis. So with leds you can get more efficient light energy in the PAR range. But eventually all of that energy is going to leave the room as heat.
And also, Led lights create light more efficiently. up to 30% more efficiently. So, when you compare par on a hps to an equivalent par valued LED, it will create less heat.
 

bakedPotatoe

Active Member
And also, Led lights create light more efficiently. up to 30% more efficiently. So, when you compare par on a hps to an equivalent par valued LED, it will create less heat.
Thank fck a person with a brain..in there head......
If you look at the waste from a HPS its some where in the 40 percent mark im sure,so that 40 percent wasted energy and heat straight up...
 
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