New soil mix/Charging biochar

CaptainT

Active Member
Im currently mixing 150L of a coots based soil and id like to add 7L of biochar. My current mix is
20L growstones
15L pumice (would have used more but price was too high until spring)
25L leca clay hydro pellets
60L peat
20L worm castings
10L compost
6 cup neem meal
6 cup kelp flour
6 cup crab meal
24 cup mineral mix ( Basalt, Carbonatite, Oyster, Soft Rock & Woolastonite)

I have alfalfa meal and bsf frass id like to incorporate into the mix or biochar. Just not sure on amounts to mix in. What would be a good option for charging the biochar?
Any suggestions on additions to the mix? Still have lots of everything but the pumice. Will be growing mkultra or MkultraXbubblegum

:bigjoint:
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
You could dry-charge it in a pre measured pile of castings or compost with a bit of nutrients. That's how I like to do it.

Or you could do a tea.. bit riskier but faster.

As for your alfalfa meal, I would go light or skip that and just do a tea if and when you see the need.
Unless you don't mind the extra leafage.

The bsf frass is great stuff, and can be added to each plant separately at any time.. or you can add some to the soil and get them established early, or my favourite option, both.

And you're using myco fungi as well, right, the endo type(s)?

You're also running at 4% kelp of total volume, I would tone it down to 1% and add another 1% as a spike or layer. Same goes for neem, imo. Although I would love to see what happens at 3%.. I've been meaning to try it.
 

CaptainT

Active Member
Haha you caught that goof on the neem/kelp/crab I actually used 1/2c per cuft so 3c each in total and have 14L biochar to add so mix is about 6 cuft. Left out the alfalfa. I do have endo fungi was planning on applying to seeds when germinating and roots when transplanting.
How much bsf per cuft would you add to this mix or can that go in a dry charge biochar?
Given everything except the biochar/bsf/alfalfa is now mixed, what would be ideal ratios for the dry charge. I dont want to end up with too much compost/ewc in the mix.
 

stoned-monkey

Well-Known Member
Maybe charge your biochar with humic/fulvic acid and minerals. Next time maybe split or replace neem with alfalfa. Alfalfa has natrual grow hormone. Frass sounds great to add on as you go for a little pick me up.
 

Serverchris

Well-Known Member
Know this is an old thread but wanted to see if CaptainT would share his ratio of minerals in his mineral mix.

Your one of the few people other than myself I've seen using wollastonite.
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
You could just do the charge with amended compost or castings.. turn in pile every few days, for a good 2 or 3 weeks.

Then you could just topdress that as you go, and mulch. Mega support for bacteria and fungi.

The bsf, I like to keep it out of the global mix, and use it dry, about a tsp for small plants and a TBSP once they get bigger. Then just sprinkle on top, and water in. Causes beneficial reactions for about 5 subsequent waterings this way.

If you have any other questions just tag me, brotha. @CaptainT

Congrats on your twins BTW!
 

CaptainT

Active Member
I went with the premixed rock dust blend from blackswallowsoil.com
I checked with them and its an even mix of the 5 rock dusts posted above. They recommend 2 cups of this mix + 1 cup gypsum + 1 cup oyster shell flour per cuft.
I just went with 4 cups of the blend and it worked out fine.

Thanks DonT, I ended up charging with compost/castings and all went well. The bsf def perks them up.
C883B3E0-4DC7-467D-AE3F-5B46E0064AF2.jpeg 34D8B047-769F-45BE-A361-2972F0841377.jpeg
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
I went with the premixed rock dust blend from blackswallowsoil.com
I checked with them and its an even mix of the 5 rock dusts posted above. They recommend 2 cups of this mix + 1 cup gypsum + 1 cup oyster shell flour per cuft.
I just went with 4 cups of the blend and it worked out fine.

Thanks DonT, I ended up charging with compost/castings and all went well. The bsf def perks them up.
View attachment 4202478 View attachment 4202479
You're welcome man. . glad to help. Hats to you too, great job.

Ok nice.. so you went with 4 cups of the: Basalt, Carbonatite, Oyster, Soft Rock & Woolastonite blend, and skipped the 1C Gypsum (& the extra OSF)?
 

CaptainT

Active Member
You're welcome man. . glad to help. Hats to you too, great job.

Ok nice.. so you went with 4 cups of the: Basalt, Carbonatite, Oyster, Soft Rock & Woolastonite blend, and skipped the 1C Gypsum (& the extra OSF)?

Yes thats correct, i figured that mix included enough ph buffers. I had no idea they recommend the added oyster/gypsum. I asked black swallow soil about the blend this week after serverchris asked about it.
Next time i use the blend ill try the added oyster/gypsum
 

Serverchris

Well-Known Member
Thanks alot man, my last soul I used 1 cup of gypsum per cubic foot and my sulfer levels were off the chart, like 5 times too high, made some adjustments and going to try it again.
 

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
Thanks alot man, my last soul I used 1 cup of gypsum per cubic foot and my sulfer levels were off the chart, like 5 times too high, made some adjustments and going to try it again.
FWIW, I got turned on to gypsum/sulfur from growing garlic a good bit before it was mentioned much on canna forums and what eventually worked best for me was a light application (1/4 - 1/2cup/cf), when making the mix and a decent top dress in very early spring (late Feb, early March), when the garlic was just coming out of dormacy and growth was kicking in. The garlic bulbs don't form till near harvest and that's when the really take up the sulfur.

Garlic also prefers a pH of ~6.7 and a well limed mix was a must. That seemed more important in the early stages of planting and growth before dormancy. Garlic does have a long grow season of ~8 months, way longer than mj, but still there are lessons to be taken.

For the first 4-5 months there is not much growth above ground, but massive root development during dormancy. The Ca from the lime and gypsum really come in here. Heavy amendments, not so much.

The healthy top dressings done in Feb/March come into play about a month later when the soil warms and explosive above ground growth begins roughly compared to the start of flowering in canna. THAT'S when the NPK and extra sulfur and such are really utilized and needed.

Am I making any sort of sense? Or just howling at the moon? :o :dunce:

Wet
 

CaptainT

Active Member
6381F6CC-CB52-4431-9573-1FBDCB9452B8.jpeg Found these growing from the bottom of my fabric pot, second run with the soil mix in this thread. Must be some good things growing in this soil

Def making sense Wetdog, thanks for the info
 
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