New style Samsung LM561C Board

[Instant Pot]

Thanks for the responses, guys. What temperature would you all advise going with for a flower room...3500k? 4000k? 3000? Hotter? Is it worth mixing 3500k AND 4000k?

One guy did a Spydr/Fluence "clone" build, and mixed 3000k and 3500k (on EACH 1 inch aluminum channel piece), but wiring/soldering looks like it would be a nightmare...thoughts?

Again, NOT my pic...from someone else's build.

 

[Humple]

Thanks for the responses, guys. What temperature would you all advise going with for a flower room...3500k? 4000k? 3000? Hotter? Is it worth mixing 3500k AND 4000k?

One guy did a Spydr/Fluence "clone" build, and mixed 3000k and 3500k (on EACH 1 inch aluminum channel piece), but wiring/soldering looks like it would be a nightmare...thoughts?

Again, NOT my pic...from someone else's build.

Not much point in mixing 3000k and 4000k - tests have shown that this mix is equivalent to straight 3500k. Personally, I'm quite happy with either 3000k or 3500k for seed-to-harvest.

 

[ANC]

Just get 3K. They work awesome.

 

[PhenoMenal]

i went with 3000k for flower, 6500k for veg, and dimmable (via potentiometer but next time ill just get a driver with built-in dimmer) so for the first time in my growing over the years i can now fade between summer and winter,(and fade down during very hot summer days, or seedlings etc) - im loving this new degree of freedom
I agree though that the 3000k is the way to go if you can only go with one type - max love during flowering!

 

[sixixix]

Any opinions on these, with the added 730, 660, 460 and 365nm diodes?

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/DIY-240w-LED-grow-lights-Samsung_60730773356.html

 

[Rocket Soul]

Any opinions on these, with the added 730, 660, 460 and 365nm diodes?

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/DIY-240w-LED-grow-lights-Samsung_60730773356.html

Looks dodgy. The spectrum they show does not in any way match the leds they quote: blue peak around 470nm (w the white leds peaking in 450 and extra blue in 460) and far red peak at 780 nm (instead of 730!?!) makes absolutely no sense w regards to the leds they spec. Cheap enough though and would love to see what they can do regardless.

 

[PhenoMenal]

Looks dodgy. The spectrum they show does not in any way match the leds they quote

They also have a LOT of LED's cramped into a small area! ... (this is their photo)

I think people underestimate LM561C's heat profile ... they are superbly efficient - we're now using heatsinks!... but they still generate heat, as does the driver. Here in the Australian summer i've had to use air conditioning to keep my 2 x QB-304's happy (i cant wait to see what happens in our winter - they might provide all my warming needs for that room lol, ie. that would mean zero need for heating, so it might balance out )
Maybe im wrong, and maybe they're perfect for ppl in cold climates in which case it's not a problem being so close together

 

[OLD MOTHER SATIVA]

hilarious...they took "my "panel design and dimensions and added a few colours....

thanks rt2..lol..

 

[OLD MOTHER SATIVA]

"Maybe im wrong, and maybe they're perfect for ppl in cold climates in which case it's not a problem being so close together"

yes unfortunately for us northerners u r incorrect that they will provide the heat we need in winter up here...

however if i used the same amount of watts as my hps i could grow another 40% area ...

it may happen next year...

 

[Viceman666]

hilarious...they took "my "panel design and dimensions and added a few colours....

thanks rt2..lol..

Just curious.. does it create any issue using different spectrum led on the same board powered by the same driver? Or it doesnt and they all use the same current/voltage?

What did you do with your panels? Are you using them or they dont meet your needs?

 

[sixixix]

I'm thinking about redesigning my flower fixture, dimming my 8 x 3590's down from 1.4A to 0.7A and installing 4 of these boards. R2T said they could be run up to 70W without cooling, but I'll probably use an alu slate for additional cooling and run them closer to 100W each.

The upgrade itch needs to be scratched! My veg setup is three qb120 @ 50W each. and they work great, but I want to try something a bit more "advanced" than plain white 561c board this time, that's why I'm looking into these

 

[OLD MOTHER SATIVA]

I'm thinking about redesigning my flower fixture, dimming my 8 x 3590's down from 1.4A to 0.7A and installing 4 of these boards. R2T said they could be run up to 70W without cooling, but I'll probably use an alu slate for additional cooling and run them closer to 100W each.

The upgrade itch needs to be scratched! My veg setup is three qb120 @ 50W each. and they work great, but I want to try something a bit more "advanced" than a plain white 561c board this time, that's why I'm looking into these

why should they not fit my needs.. i did a good design ..the addition of few different colours was cute but yawnsville

don't over think it amigo...the rest[and most] of the equation is grower skill..don't get too hung up on this tech..
561 c or b..they all do great

 

[PhenoMenal]

just a quick update on my 2xQB-304 now that ive added the potentiometer ...
before i added the potentiometer (ie running 100%), both the Meanwell driver and heatsink aluminium base were VERY hot-to-the-touch (cant touch for more than half a second, and it elevated room temperature substantially, not ideal in hot 30C+ summer days), but now i've added potentiometer + 10k transistor, and when running at the lowest (0) i can hardly detect any warmth from the heatsink, and just mild warmth from the driver.

I'm loving dimmability!
1) these awesome LEDs _allow_ us to dim them, so its sweet to be able to take advantage of that offering! (most LED growlights dont have dimming), and
2) it's a very handy controllable parameter in regards to heat, especially for hot summer days (not to mention the ability to fade out from summer into winter) - I will do some light-meter & watt-meter tests soon, and
3) it's a very handy controllable parameter in regards to spectrum ... eg. i have 3000k flower and 6500k veg QB's, so i can literally and physically fade between the two, just as summer fades to winter on Earth

 

[ANC]

Yeah, it is amazing how much heat you add relative to light once you start nearing Test current.
I also ran my lights a little cooler over the warm days. Now that things are starting to get cooler, I am running them just above Test current and they are not all that hot.

 

[conversekidz]

L-channel, U(C)-channel, or flat bar. Personally, for a strip build, I'd opt for U-channel.

add giant aluminum panel to the mix

 

[DankaDank]

I'm just giving you guys a heads up on R2T boards. They lack some basic PCB safety measures as I found out first hand, be careful when mounting them with screws as the copper has barley any clearance around mounting holes and if you tighten them to much the screws conduct electricity to the frame. luckily I used serrated washers when mounting driver so my frame was grounded, I would have gotten a nasty shock at +200vdc. I switched to nylon fasteners.

 

[conversekidz]

I'm just giving you guys a heads up on rt2 boards. They lack some basic PCB safety measures as I found out first hand, be careful when mounting them with screws as the copper has barley any clearance around mounting holes and if you tighten them to much the screws conduct electricity to the frame. luckily I used serrated washers when mounting driver so my frame was grounded, I would have gotten a nasty shock at +200vdc. I switched to nylon fasteners.

So your over tightening resulted in damage to the board and your lack of the use of an isolation media on a "hot" board caused a potential shock scenario means they lack basic PCB safety measures...

 

[nfhiggs]

I'm just giving you guys a heads up on rt2 boards. They lack some basic PCB safety measures as I found out first hand, be careful when mounting them with screws as the copper has barley any clearance around mounting holes and if you tighten them to much the screws conduct electricity to the frame. luckily I used serrated washers when mounting driver so my frame was grounded, I would have gotten a nasty shock at +200vdc. I switched to nylon fasteners.

"rt2" boards?

 

[conversekidz]

"rt2" boards?

R2T = Run To Target....vendor on alibaba

 

[DankaDank]

So your over tightening resulted in damage to the board

I'm not saying that it could not have been avoided with better practice. It is difficult to judge the line between boards being tight to ensure good contact with heat-sink and over tightening. Also even at a moderate tightening , if during the tightening process the screw rotates it can easily rupture the silkscreen. It also seems softer then most other pcb's I have dealt with.

your lack of the use of an isolation media on a "hot" board

In regards to isolation media I had no idea there was copper under the mounting holes as I assumed it is a simple and standard practice that there would not be any

potential shock scenario means they lack basic PCB safety measures...

Are you saying that there should be copper around the mounting holes ?