Outdoor Ground Disease? HELP

thizzrdie

Active Member
I am having trouble at my grow spot at this certain area for the last 2 years. Its starting to spread threw my whole garden. Its a disease in the soil that's making them turn purple on the leaves stem like under the leaf(like veins I don't know) (not from the cold) and the inside leaves(where the internode is) curling up.when the insides threw grow they would be real wrinkly.If it touches another plant it will spread the disease to it. They'll live but grow really slow, and go from 7 blades to 3. I think its sumthing with the original soil there because its only 2 sq ft of a 8x8 patch. PLEASE HELP
 

mogie

Well-Known Member
Until you know what this is and contain the problem stop growing outside. I would move the grow to inside. Are you growing designer genetics or bagseed?

Are you plants from seed or clone?

How old are your plants total?

Are your plants in flower?

How big are the plants (in height and # of nodes)?

What size planter are they in?

Chemical or organic fertilizer?

How frequently do you water and how much do you use?

How frequently do you feed them and how much do you use?

Have you seen any bugs in your garden?
 

mogie

Well-Known Member
This might now even be of any help but on the off chance here it is:

Aphids:

Signs of an infestation:
Stunted, curled leaves. Aphids use piercing mouthparts to suck sap from the Phloem. Ants often accompany aphids (Ants help transport aphids around), and will also need to be controlled. Aphids secrete a sugar-like ?honeydew?, which make the undersides of the leaves sticky.

How to get rid of aphids:
Use sticky traps (i.e. No Pest Strip) for prevention and detection. Beneficial insects like ladybugs can be used to naturally control an infestation. A soapy spray (i.e. Safer?s Soap or detergent in warm water) can also be used to suffocate them.

Summary:
? Suck plant sap
? Cause stunting, leaf curling
? Leave honeydew deposits on leaves
? Ants in the grow room

Contributed by: Sniperman
Submitted: July 24th, 2004

Aphids: symptoms include curled or yellow leaves. Sticky honeydew residue on leaves, general weakness in plants.

Control: spray with a strong stream of water (during veg only). Sticky yellow traps. Alum foil mulch. Predatory bugs. Horticulture sprays. Most general-purpose garden spray r dusts, including pyrethrins, rotenone, and Malathion.

Spider Mites:

Signs of an Infestation:
Mites will first be noticed by the presence of small, discolored spots located near veins in the leaves. To see them, you will need the help of a 10X loupe, or a 30X Microscope. Mites use piercing mouthparts to suck sap. Mites will slow growth and attack the buds in advanced stages. The life cycle of the spider mite is closely tied to the temperature of the grow room; slow an infestation by keeping temp in the low 70?s.

Eliminating spider mites:
A ?No Pest strip? is very effective in eliminating them. Avid is a very effective systemic chemical control. A soapy spray will also keep their numbers in check (thoroughly coat underside of the leaves). Space plants out to minimize transfer movement between plants.

Summary:
? Suck plant sap
? 'Speckling' may indicate mites underneath
? Mites may appear transparent, black or red
? 'Bronzing' of the leaf is characteristic
? Webbing is present in advanced stages


Thrips:
Image by Sog: Thrip size reference
Signs of an infestation:
Thrips feed on new leaves of plants (and flowers); fresh leaf growth will deformed. A metallic sheen on leaves is one sure indicator of Thrips.

Sog "Thrip feces are easy to see with the naked eye; they show up as black spots on the leaves and stems of infected areas. Thrips themselves are a pale pinkish color."

Controlling Thrips:
Interestingly, Garlic repels Thrips. Cooler temps will slow down the life cycle, and blue sticky traps will trap adults. You can siphon them off by rustling the plant, and sucking them up with a shop-vac!
< tr>
Image by Sog: Silvered leaves
indicate heavy attack
Predator mites are also beneficial in the control of Thrips. Fine powdered Sulphur applied to the leaves will control them as well. A biological spray containing Beauvaria bassiana, (A fungus that grows and consumes Thrips) is also effective. Spraying the leaves with Chrysanthemum also kills Thrips.

Summary:
? Feed on plant tissue
? Rasp leaf surfaces and suck juices
? Heavily damaged plants appear silvery or gray
? Plants may be distorted, especially seedlings


Whiteflies:

Signs of an infestation:
Whiteflies are also sap-suckers. The top surface of leaves on infested plants become pale or spotted due to these insects feeding on the undersides of the leaves. Heavily infested plants will produce a buzzing cloud of flies if shaken.

The Whitefly life cycle is interesting in that the larval stage does all the damage. The larva will hatch and remain until it has quickly molted 3 times. Then it pupates and an adult emerges.

Controlling the Whitefly:
Insecticidal soap will take care of an infestation, as will the more toxic Diazanaon. Apply the soap (plus a wetting agent) to all parts on the plants, and both sides of the leaves. This will act to block the breathing pores and suffocate the pests.

Summary:
? feed by sucking plant juices
? mottled leaves indicate heavy attack
? may cause yellowing or death
? excreted honeydew may cover lower leaves, and black mold may grow on honeydew


Fungus Gnats:
Image by Ot1: Fungus Gnat
Signs of an infestation:
Fungus Gnats are attracted to soils that are rich in compost and nutrients. They lay eggs on the surface, hatching into larvae. Those larvae feed on the root tissue, including root hairs, and the outer cell covering of the root; often leaving only the central tube of the root. External signs include discolored leaves, and systemic plant failure. Fungus gnat adults will often run across the medium and may fly if the plant is shaken.

Controlling Fungus Gnats:
Pyrethrum aerosols, as well as placing yellow sticky traps all around the plant will help control the emerging adults. Gnatrol (containing natural Bt) is highly recommended.

Summary:
?Gnats vector root rot
?Gnats on the medium, or bottoms of the plants
?&#188;? long whitish maggots in the soil
 

mogie

Well-Known Member
Check you stem out carefully. Do you see any places (especially near the bottom) that are dented in or are slimy? Any of this sound familiar? Symptoms:

Initial:
Yellowed, droopy and wilting leaves (possibly exhibiting mineral deficiencies). Leaf curl over - ram's horns' - roots are unable to uptake nutrients at that strength because they are infected.
pH becomes more acidic (pH should rise slowly in a healthy system)
'Burnt' root tips (browning tips may also be a result of light exposure, or over fertilization)
Reduced water consumption and rising nutrient strength
Brown colored roots. (Note: GH "Micro" will stain roots brown as well; stain darkens @ ppm's. Healthy root should be white or slightly tan)

Advanced:
Brown and slimy roots with a slight to strong rotting odor. Plant may appear healthy.
Reddish and swollen root collar, becoming blackened over time. Eventually the plant will fall over as all connecting tissue will have been 'eaten away'.
 

thizzrdie

Active Member
Thanks Mogie. I just found a small ant hill about 2 feet away from the infected area. I also seen 2 climbing on the stem of 1 plant. I noticed some slimey looking stuff on the stem of a healthy plant. What is this. It abouth a foot from the top of 4 foot plant. The plants also have about 5 sets of leaves going up. They are growing really slow if at all. The other plants in my garden are healthy and vigourus. I am using bag seeds of the same strain, they are 100% organic, and I started them indoors. I don't think its bugs because its been going on for 2 years and only a 2x2 area affected.
 

thizzrdie

Active Member
HELP!!!!! I just went to my spot and its spread to 2 of my kush plants. What is some easy remedies for killing a root disease? I don't want to loose my whole crop to this
 

themaritimer

Well-Known Member
thizzrdie, I'd be inclined to go with Mogie and look after it through the aforementioned methods. If it's a soil issue, it would have reared it's head in the initial stages of your grow. Soil replacement is the method of repair if the soil is the problem.
Are there any insects that are currently in abundance where you are this time of year? Did the problem occur at the same time last year? It may be a certain insect larvae that hatches or becomes active at this time of year in your area that is the source of your problem.
There are numerous soil treatments out there, none of which I'd recommend using around your plants unless it is an absolute last resort.
 

potroast

Uses the Rollitup profile
It sounds like you have aphids. They leave a sticky residue on the top of the leaf. Look on the underside of that leaf and you'll see a colony. The ants will then feed on the honeydew left by the aphids.

You need to get rid of them. I suggest pyrethrin-based pesticide, Foxfarm Don't Bug Me is a good one, or you can find a weaker one at casa de pot.

HTH :mrgreen:
 

mogie

Well-Known Member
I read a tip a while ago about using Pottasium Permanganate (Condy's Crystals)to control ants. Decided to give it a go. You can get PP at Chemists or some Supermarkets. You only use minute amount and mix it with plain water (just a few grains - enough to turn the water a pale to mid pink, not so much that the water goes purple to opaque). Then just water into the soil.

For me this has worked like a charm. AND IT WORKS ON WHITE ANTS, TOO. Keeps all sorts of ants out of the soil and away from the roots. Didn't harm plants at all.

Don't Bug Me is an excellent product.
 
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