MMJ Dreaming 99
Well-Known Member
Where do you get genesis boards? I would love to know what the PAR or light reading is on that fixture. It looks like it would kick a DE HPS. Beautiful job.
Pictures of your DIY lights - Post your pics!!!
- Thread starter TimeToBurn
- Start date
astonehead
Well-Known Member
The genesis boards are from a guy on instagram these are the mk1 he is doing one with reds to in now and a different size board.
I also like to know the par but on lux at the minute but the 3000k don't look that impressive on a lux meter
I also like to know the par but on lux at the minute but the 3000k don't look that impressive on a lux meter
ganjamystic
Well-Known Member
do you mind posting a link or telling us the guy's name on instagram?
astonehead
Well-Known Member
The guys name is ledmedicalgrow but there's a few people having boards made, they are pretty much all the same chips anyway
mahiluana
Well-Known Member
LIGHT HEAT COGENERATION Many people think that led-light is more efficient, because it produces less heat.
That`s a fallacy !
The heat production of led light is still ~75% of the input power.
Even if we drive quality led chips at low current.
Heatpower Pt = ~ 0.75 * Vf * If
---> Aircooled leds are ~ 25% energy efficient.
Using the heat power of your chips you can reach 85% with a coolmac system.
The simple and transparent structure of coolmac disign is not only a very cheap solution -
but also the most energy-efficient way to satisfy your needs of light and heat.
Heat management is a main issue in led industry.
With only 3W waterpump and a low water flow of 200L / h
you are able to blow the heat of 1200W lamp power into your heat exchanger.
Low junction temp. and longlife included.
60% of the input power can be recovered and used by integration of a heat exchanger.
Total price of a coolmac system with real 1000W can be under 1000,- US$ with the
heat exchanger included.
With quality drivers and chips (mean well, cree,...) this price will
increase "slightly".
The installation is also simple and can be done by everybody, who is able to connect a water pipe or garden hose.
If you still use gas or oil to produce your hot water - this watercooled system can help you
to have enormeous savings in money and CO² production.
Easy to copy (DIY) and to adjust to your personal needs of size, spectrum and power.
nc208
Well-Known Member
Built this today, its going to go in a 18x18 box designed to grow 1 plant. I wanted to make something that would give me an even distribution, each strip is designed to run at 25.2w each, they can be cranked up to 50.4w each but need a fan as heatsinks get quite hot at 2100 Ma. Each strip has 96 Samsung Diodes 3500k 80 cri. The fixture has a 16" x 12" footprint.
Big Green Thumb
Well-Known Member
berten-ernie420
Well-Known Member
Big Green Thumb
Well-Known Member
This is a little better pic of my disco shop!
DIY-HP-LED
Well-Known Member
The Left Overs Lamp
Here is a lamp I made some some stuff I had laying around and left overs from other projects. It's made from a heavy (structural) 18" long X 4" wide x 2" high, section of C channel aluminum extrusion. I think I paid around $5 or $6/ft from my local supplier (a machine shop) for this extrusion and I have two matching 6" X 3" heatsinks acquired from the scrap yard mounted (with cheap paste) about an inch and a half in from each end of the channel with 4mm screws, the middle 5 inches doesn't have any heat sink over it. The rest of the structure is made from a dead ATX power supply and two pieces of custom bent flashing, from a local building supplier. I have the 120 mm ATX power supply fan sucking and the 2 x 90mm fans on each end blowing to keep the fixture running at around 40 C. The lamp has a tripod mount or can be hung from chains and draws 335 watts according to the kill-o-watt, the screws sticking out the bottom are legs to set the lamp down on.
As for the innards, let's see if I can remember, the two outside flood light and the center Citizen CLU048 COBs are each driven by dirt cheap ebay 50 watt drivers. The 10 watt CW and dual band monos are driven by separate small buck converters powered by the wall wart you see attached to the side of the case (with silicone rubber adhesive), as are the fans. The 5 x 4000K LED strips (attached with CPU tape) are driven at about 20 watts each and were obtained for free from a scrap yard by stripping them off two GE high bay LED bulbs. They run at around 72 volts, so ran a 100 watt 36 volt driver through a boost converter to power them, I like em and they sure do put out light.
Here is a closeup of the lamp end, the fan is mounted on the channel about 1/2" from the heat sinks with silicone rubber adhesive and gaps are filled with foam weather stripping. Air flows in the ends, through the heatsinks and out the top of the ATX PSU along with the heat, I took care in mounting the inner components, to maximize airflow through the lamp. Many of the internal parts are mounted on top of the heatsinks to force more air through them and the ATX box only has the boost converter and 100 watt driver mounted on the sides and cooled by the passing air. Not the most efficient lamp in the world, but what do ya expect with left over parts and junk. It's effective, useful, flexible and I had fun building it, which is probably why I did.
For more info visit my thread: https://www.rollitup.org/t/economical-multi-led-chip-projects-for-growing.852256/page-17#post-13762488
Here is a lamp I made some some stuff I had laying around and left overs from other projects. It's made from a heavy (structural) 18" long X 4" wide x 2" high, section of C channel aluminum extrusion. I think I paid around $5 or $6/ft from my local supplier (a machine shop) for this extrusion and I have two matching 6" X 3" heatsinks acquired from the scrap yard mounted (with cheap paste) about an inch and a half in from each end of the channel with 4mm screws, the middle 5 inches doesn't have any heat sink over it. The rest of the structure is made from a dead ATX power supply and two pieces of custom bent flashing, from a local building supplier. I have the 120 mm ATX power supply fan sucking and the 2 x 90mm fans on each end blowing to keep the fixture running at around 40 C. The lamp has a tripod mount or can be hung from chains and draws 335 watts according to the kill-o-watt, the screws sticking out the bottom are legs to set the lamp down on.
As for the innards, let's see if I can remember, the two outside flood light and the center Citizen CLU048 COBs are each driven by dirt cheap ebay 50 watt drivers. The 10 watt CW and dual band monos are driven by separate small buck converters powered by the wall wart you see attached to the side of the case (with silicone rubber adhesive), as are the fans. The 5 x 4000K LED strips (attached with CPU tape) are driven at about 20 watts each and were obtained for free from a scrap yard by stripping them off two GE high bay LED bulbs. They run at around 72 volts, so ran a 100 watt 36 volt driver through a boost converter to power them, I like em and they sure do put out light.
Here is a closeup of the lamp end, the fan is mounted on the channel about 1/2" from the heat sinks with silicone rubber adhesive and gaps are filled with foam weather stripping. Air flows in the ends, through the heatsinks and out the top of the ATX PSU along with the heat, I took care in mounting the inner components, to maximize airflow through the lamp. Many of the internal parts are mounted on top of the heatsinks to force more air through them and the ATX box only has the boost converter and 100 watt driver mounted on the sides and cooled by the passing air. Not the most efficient lamp in the world, but what do ya expect with left over parts and junk. It's effective, useful, flexible and I had fun building it, which is probably why I did.
For more info visit my thread: https://www.rollitup.org/t/economical-multi-led-chip-projects-for-growing.852256/page-17#post-13762488
kony brado
Well-Known Member
hi there
Are these dc connector you'r using rated to the voltage on the string ?
better safe than sorry...
bizfactory
Well-Known Member
It's 18 gauge wire ¯\_(ツ)_/¯hi there
Are these dc connector you'r using rated to the voltage on the string ?
better safe than sorry...
kony brado
Well-Known Member
The wire is not not the problem,it's the connector,i believe its rated for 24v max.
You'r runing 36v*3 =108v ~ i believe.
I wold change that connector personaly.
You can chop it of,and still use the original wire,just replace the connector with waggo connector or soldier.
good luck
bizfactory
Well-Known Member
You are probably right. Realistically, how do you think it would fail from too much voltage? It's definitely not warm to the touch.The wire is not not the problem,it's the connector,i believe its rated for 24v max.
You'r runing 36v*3 =108v ~ i believe.
I wold change that connector personaly.
You can chop it of,and still use the original wire,just replace the connector with waggo connector or soldier.
good luck
kony brado
Well-Known Member
They might melt at some long usage i guess.
personally,i wold not take the chance,it's the easiest job and wago go to 300v+ probably,very easy to use,cheap and will provide a much more solid contact than these dc plugs.(the chance of loosing the light or your house in the extreme case is not worth taking)
im not saying they will fail for sure,but why take the chance?
live and grow another day
thanks
bizfactory
Well-Known Member
Word, gonna look for a higher rated quick connector. Not gonna use wagos.
Danielson999
Well-Known Member
Why not use wagos? They are as safe as it gets.
Sickomindo
Well-Known Member
Mine
Attachments
Danielson999
Well-Known Member
Nice light. It looks menacing over top of those babies.
Cletus clem
Well-Known Member
Ill call this a diy light now. Rapid led 3 cob vero 29 gen 7 kit, 3500°k. Didnt post it here as it was a pretty well put together kit, all i did was assemble. Tonite i fabricobbled some reflectors for it though. Buddy of mine gave me some lengths of reflector material from what looks like would be for a 2 bulb t12. I cut the peak out of the middle and reversed the 2 halves, drilled some holes and tapped/drilled the polycarb lense. Happy with the results so far but have yet to fire it up
