Please Help Plan Mini RDWC Room - Lighting & Ventillation

I'm not solid on my plans yet, but I am looking for some guidance, on choosing the best ventilation available, as well as lighting. Hopefully this is somewhat organized, I tried my best.

I am legally allowed to grow.

It will be a RDWC, with 4 sites (containers). Similar to what HygroHybrid builds in his tutorial. I would need to produce a minimum of 2.5oz per container (4 sites total) to be able to meet my medical needs. (I can do 2oz per 4gal-pot in soil under a 1000w so it should be possible.)

Space; [Medium Size Room.] I wanted to do 6ft. by 3ft., however I can not seem to find anything that size. I was looking at something that is 8ft. by 4ft. (6ft tall) (8x4x6).

Odour; [Very Important!]
>There were a couple different filters I was considering. These are the biggest (best?) ones I could find, but if you know of anything better please do tell!

Below in order or preference, what I was looking at.
.....1) Can-Lite 14" XL 3000CFM (87LBS) - $530 CAD
.....2) Can MAX 2500 - $380 CAD
.....3)Can 150 - 1260CFM max - $455 CAD
.....4) Mountain Air Carbon Filter 12" 1350CFM - $400 CAD
> I would get the matching inline fan for the filter. (Same brand/ recommended CFM-rating for that filter.)
> I am leaning more towards the Can Max 2500 or Can-Lite 3000. (I presume more CFM rating equals more scrubbing, equals less smell, right?)
> Is there anything better than these options for odour control?
> I am also considering adding a VapourTek Unit. (Thought about ozone, but I am not fond of the possible health hazards.)

Lighting; [Heat, Upfront Cost, Monthly Cost are all important factors.]
>Ideally I would want two LED units (one to cover two sites (containers), and one to cover the other two sites (containers). A local shop carries KIND and MARS Brands.
>I know people say build your own COB units if you're going LED (but that is a little over what I would like to do right now. I can do "tech" stuff, but I am dealing with so much right now I don't want to take on another entire "project". If I can find a company that sells build units I may consider.)
> One thing I am a little unsure about is, with HPS you run it a few cycles then change your bulbs. Are you supposed to change you LED units every few cycles, or is it a one time purchase (as long as diodes don't burn out)?
>[If I don't do LED, I would consider 2x 600W MH/HPS.]

Below in order or preference, what I was looking at.
.....1) Mars II LED Grow Light 1200 - $647CAD [Would get two units.]
.....2) Mars Hydro Reflectors 192 - $520CAD [Would get two units.]
.....3) Mars II LED Grow Light 900 - $520CAD [Would get two units.]
.....I've read Kind is similar to Mars in quality, but the price of Kind Led lights are almost double?
.....4) Kind LED K3-L600 - $1345CAD [Only one unit.]
.....[Backup] - 600W Digital Air-Cooled $360 [Would get two units.] (Sunmax Ballast and Bulbs, 4ft square radius reflector)

Joint Monster said:

I'm not solid on my plans yet, but I am looking for some guidance, on choosing the best ventilation available, as well as lighting. Hopefully this is somewhat organized, I tried my best.

I am legally allowed to grow.

It will be a RDWC, with 4 sites (containers). Similar to what HygroHybrid builds in his tutorial. I would need to produce a minimum of 2.5oz per container (4 sites total) to be able to meet my medical needs. (I can do 2oz per 4gal-pot in soil under a 1000w so it should be possible.)

Space; [Medium Size Room.] I wanted to do 6ft. by 3ft., however I can not seem to find anything that size. I was looking at something that is 8ft. by 4ft. (6ft tall) (8x4x6).

Odour; [Very Important!]
>There were a couple different filters I was considering. These are the biggest (best?) ones I could find, but if you know of anything better please do tell!

Below in order or preference, what I was looking at.
.....1) Can-Lite 14" XL 3000CFM (87LBS) - $530 CAD
.....2) Can MAX 2500 - $380 CAD
.....3)Can 150 - 1260CFM max - $455 CAD
.....4) Mountain Air Carbon Filter 12" 1350CFM - $400 CAD
> I would get the matching inline fan for the filter. (Same brand/ recommended CFM-rating for that filter.)
> I am leaning more towards the Can Max 2500 or Can-Lite 3000. (I presume more CFM rating equals more scrubbing, equals less smell, right?)
> Is there anything better than these options for odour control?
> I am also considering adding a VapourTek Unit. (Thought about ozone, but I am not fond of the possible health hazards.)

Lighting; [Heat, Upfront Cost, Monthly Cost are all important factors.]
>Ideally I would want two LED units (one to cover two sites (containers), and one to cover the other two sites (containers). A local shop carries KIND and MARS Brands.
>I know people say build your own COB units if you're going LED (but that is a little over what I would like to do right now. I can do "tech" stuff, but I am dealing with so much right now I don't want to take on another entire "project". If I can find a company that sells build units I may consider.)
> One thing I am a little unsure about is, with HPS you run it a few cycles then change your bulbs. Are you supposed to change you LED units every few cycles, or is it a one time purchase (as long as diodes don't burn out)?
>[If I don't do LED, I would consider 2x 600W MH/HPS.]

Below in order or preference, what I was looking at.
.....1) Mars II LED Grow Light 1200 - $647CAD [Would get two units.]
.....2) Mars Hydro Reflectors 192 - $520CAD [Would get two units.]
.....3) Mars II LED Grow Light 900 - $520CAD [Would get two units.]
.....I've read Kind is similar to Mars in quality, but the price of Kind Led lights are almost double?
.....4) Kind LED K3-L600 - $1345CAD [Only one unit.]
.....[Backup] - 600W Digital Air-Cooled $360 [Would get two units.] (Sunmax Ballast and Bulbs, 4ft square radius reflector)

Click to expand...

CMH have you considered just got one and love it. Mars is ok I have one but not top of the line two 315 lec/ CMH would be your best bet get the same production as a 600hps and way better than the led you listed I have each light you listed except kind but with them your paying for a name mars is not much different.

JM, I also grow indoors for my pain meds. I use a walk-in closet that's 5x10 total space and I use 5x5 for my system. Two rows of 4-3gal buckets plumbed to a central 18gal rez give me a total of 8 plants. I'm only on my 2nd year of growing and I can easily meet my needs(1.5#/yr) with 5 plants-I usually donate my excess to other patients. I started with some Mars and King led's-they can grow decent bud but decided to build a new system using Vero's. Primary difference between the blurple's and the cob's is that you get more photons for the same wattage-this grows hardier plants. There are companies(like Timber) that offer assemblies or kits using current tech diodes-get the best efficiency you can afford. Since the arrays will last for many years of service it makes more sense to use state of the art components. HPS has a substantially lower entry cost but added cost of dealing with waste heat and bulb replacements does add up. I don't have any experience with carbon scrubbers-hopefully others will chime in.

@Michiganjesse Thanks, I actually haven't really looked at CMH. If it comes down to my backup then that is something I might consider over traditional HPS.

@GBAUTO I appreciate your LED experience . I've been looking at some other units as well. I noticed CREE and Vero seem to come up in a lot of the COB units I'm seeing. I've also been watching some DIY videos and learning more about this in general.

Seems like a good well rounded unit.
..... opticledgrowlights.com/products/2-x-optic-6-cob-led-grow-light-620w
This seems rather simple...looks like what people are DIY'ing.
..... ledcanada.com/product/growthstar-scorpion-9x-550w-cob-led-grow-light-copy/
These look okay, but I don't know much about them.
..... www.bcblondes.com/Cree-cxb-3590-led-grow-light-with-meanwell-driver-p/bcb-1100rw.htm

Either way GB, even if you can tell me if I'm on the right track that would be great. I don't want to end up getting cheap/china Cob's, because that defeats the purpose (imo.).

And yeah, If anyone knows more about ventilation, I could really use some advice there. As I have someone working from home, odour control will be important! I was thinking the biggest filter I can get with a fan in the tent, vented completely out. A vapourtek unit outside the tent. And if absolutely necessary another scrubber and filter outside the tent.

[QUOTE="Joint Monster, post: 13876588, member: 509207"
@GBAUTO I appreciate your LED experience . I've been looking at some other units as well. I noticed CREE and Vero seem to come up in a lot of the COB units I'm seeing.

Seems like a good well rounded unit.
..... opticledgrowlights.com/products/2-x-optic-6-cob-led-grow-light-620w
I'd say this is lot of money for what you get.

This seems rather simple...looks like what people are DIY'ing.
..... ledcanada.com/product/growthstar-scorpion-9x-550w-cob-led-grow-light-copy/
See response from above.

These look okay, but I don't know much about them.
..... www.bcblondes.com/Cree-cxb-3590-led-grow-light-with-meanwell-driver-p/bcb-1100rw.htm
Getting closer but it's a really powerful lamp-more than you could use.

https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/ is a great source
http://timbergrowlights.com/fixtures/vero29-v7-fixtures/ another option
http://www.pacificlightconcepts.com/
Look at the specs given and spend some time researching what those numbers mean and how to determine if a fixture will give the best results for YOUR space.

[/QUOTE]

Thanks a lot GB. The HLG's look pretty cool, I saw them before but wasn't to knowledgable about quantum boards. To my understanding I'd want 1600W for a 4x8 space. That should be actual wattage drawn when looking at LEDs.

The more I talk to you the more I seem to want to DIY it... It reminds me of when I was 14 and was soldering LED lights on my brand new Xbox, I wanted white not green lol. Makes me want to pull out the tools, and it actually isn't as complicated as I was making it out to be in my head... A Simple loop, positive, negative, positive, negative, almost like Christmas-lights are.
I also found this tutorial super helpful, https://www.rollitup.org/t/diy-led-grow-lights-with-cree-cxa3070-cobs-and-cpu-coolers.805681/
^I like how he has 3-modes. I'd probably do something very similar with maybe 8x3000k and 3x5000k Cree's. Maybe some additional red or blue supplemental light? Or keep it the same, but build two units.
Growmau5's older threads on here had some good stuff to.
...I need to work out the specifics now, I'll be back.

JM, I would suggest that you work backwards- if you only need 10oz/grow you should be able to meet that in a 4x4 space with a decent light(500-600 watts actual) with current tech led's. Sit down and do a layout design incorporating the room dimensions with containers/rez and all other components. Then you can see the most efficient way to position the light sources-DIY lets you build the fixture to fit your space. On my 4 array bars I use 2 3K and 2 4K Vero's as well as 30W of supplemental 660's for flowering-seems to work really well.

10oz really was a bare minimum. If I could yield more it would be better. Enough to cut one grow cycle out of the year wouldn't be bad either. The filter I'm looking at (Can Max) is 4ft. long (plus another foot or so for an inline), so I thought it would be better to play on the safe side. (Unless someone knows of a smaller, but stronger filter?)
At this point I will probably go with a 4x8 Gorilla Tent. I'm still working out the specifics of the rdwc container sizes, but I know I want two containers per 4x4 area of the tent.

Both these Cobs say 117Watts, but the title of the Diy thread says 488W unit, and he is using a total of 6 Cobs.
> https://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cree-Inc/CXA3070-0000-000N00Z450F/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu4Prknbu83y0bObCPMgyC/AAZag4DB6D4TpVpI9Ddrqg==
> https://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cree-Inc/CXA3070-0000-000N00Z230F/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu4Prknbu83y0bObCPMgyC/l6eQby5L/DGQDb9TViwpOg==
Is he just referring to "Actual" watts the unit is pulling? Is his driver limiting energy and not using the full 117w?

GB, are you using Passive or Active Cooling? (I am considering going the active method, with a heatsink and fan per cob.)

He also used 3 "on/off" switches, but never mentioned where they relayed into the circuit. Any Idea? I really like the use of this, to be able to use the same led unit on smaller cuttings.

I have a whole diagram/sketch-up I'm working on. Those architecture classes sure do come in handy.

Joint Monster said:

Both these Cobs say 117Watts, but the title of the Diy thread says 488W unit, and he is using a total of 6 Cobs.
> https://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cree-Inc/CXA3070-0000-000N00Z450F/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu4Prknbu83y0bObCPMgyC/AAZag4DB6D4TpVpI9Ddrqg==
> https://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cree-Inc/CXA3070-0000-000N00Z230F/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu4Prknbu83y0bObCPMgyC/l6eQby5L/DGQDb9TViwpOg==
Is he just referring to "Actual" watts the unit is pulling? Is his driver limiting energy and not using the full 117w?

GB, are you using Passive or Active Cooling? (I am considering going the active method, with a heatsink and fan per cob.)

He also used 3 "on/off" switches, but never mentioned where they relayed into the circuit. Any Idea? I really like the use of this, to be able to use the same led unit on smaller cuttings.

I have a whole diagram/sketch-up I'm working on. Those architecture classes sure do come in handy.

Click to expand...

The spec listed is Cree's max output rating for the cob-most are never driven that hard because of efficiency and heat loss. It seems that using more cobs driven to lower power gives a more even coverage, so if you can afford to use more it works better. Unless you can only source Cree's I would DEFINITELY do some research on other chip options-
cree is a few years behind current tech and is more expensive to boot.
I run 140mm pin sinks and use my room fans for passive cooling. By using a 'B' version of Meanwell driver lets you dim easily-allows the array to serve many functions from seedlings to bloom.

[Mini Tangent / Thanks]
Well, I spent the weekend researching LEDs, while others were out partying lol. (I don't party, just a bad joke and strong work ethic.) Got a much better understanding of the different LED brands, how they're labelled, what's CRI, etc.

I hope you stick around this thread, because I don't know any other LED people, and you've been a great help so far @GBAUTO. A Lot of the LED stuff I've been researching seems somewhat experimental, such that, most people don't have direct comparisons and everyone is just building a X and then they decide they want to build Y to see how they can improve. Either way, I'm really just looking to build something one time, that I can use for the next few years. (technology is always changing imo.)

Hopefully others DIY'ers can find this thread somewhat helpful as well!

[Okay back on topic now]
I have narrowed down the big three brands; Cree, Bridgelux, Citizen.
> I'm not really interested in Citizen.
> Cree 3590 -> CXA3590-0000-000NT0BD30H -> ~$59CAD
> Bridgelux -> BXRC-30E10k1-C-73 -> $~40
> The Cree is a bit more pricey, and to my understanding the Vero 7Gen or SE has better technology and is more efficient with today's drivers. You also need to spend more on ventilation with Vero's.
....I could have saved a few days and just said GB did Vero, he must know what he's doing (I bet you put just as much, or more time into this haha), but at least I learned something new!

What do you think of these two cobs;
#1 - 3000k Cob > BXRC-30E-10K0-C-73-SE https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/bridgelux/BXRC-30E10K0-C-73-SE/976-1583-ND/6557085

#2 - 5000k Cob> BXRC-50C10K1-C-74-SE https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/bridgelux/BXRC-50C10K1-C-74-SE/976-1589-ND/6557091


I'm debating passive or active cooling. Active fans seem like it would be more effective and better for the leds longterm, but there is always a risk if a fan goes out. However a side-by-side test of a passive-Pin Heatsink Vs. an active-Fin Heatsink, the passive seems to run cooler. So I'm leaning towards the passive, Pin Heatsinks.

I haven't looked too specifically into drivers yet (that's next on my list). But I will most likely choose a dimmable Meanwell. I've seen people do 1 driver per cob, and I've seen people do 1 driver for all of their cobs. Is there an advantage to either setup? (I'd imagine one driver capable of powering all cobs would be easier to deal with?)
I need to see if One driver could power both 5000k and 3000k cobs together, or if I would need a different one for each type of cob.
And then see if I am able to wire all the drivers together, and just use one plug into the wall?

(I don't expect you to answer each and every thing above, unless you really want to <3. At this point, this is partially me keeping organized for the build as well. But any guidance is much appreciated.)
Now back to the web... research recommencing.

Quite a bit of math later, I think I've finally figured how to work how these calculations... Taking either of the two Vero's I posted above, BXRC30E10k0C-73-SE (Current Test - 1.71A , Voltage Forward 68.1V , Current Max 3.42A)

[Assumings the numbers below are calculated in a Series Circuit...]
(HLG-480HC1400 ...constant current region 171-343W / open circuit voltage max 420V) - Can I run a total of 5 Cobs? (Yes, I believe.) How about six? NO?
>At 1400mA ...one Cob pulls 95.34W, 5 Cobs = 476W
> 1 Cob = 68.1V , 5 Cob = 340.5V
...so it would just run five Vero 29 SE safely...?

To my understanding the lower you run the Cob, the less heat, the greater photons? How do I know what the sweet spot is (what's too low?...1050mA?). I figured 5Cobs at 1400mA would be better than 4Cobs at 1750mA (on one driver.) ...Since I want 10 Cobs, I would need two drivers?

I think that you will always have better efficiency and coverage with more low power arrays vs fewer hi power. It comes down to cost vs gain. I believe you will need some active cooling to support 90+ watts-I run mine to 80W and they get warm.
The only other concern about using bigger drivers-if you are using series wiring it exposes you to LETHAL voltage. BE CAREFUL
I would also look at the 36V version of the Vero-easier to fit more arrays on a driver and has better efficacy(lm/watt)

I thought about the 36V cobs to, well it's 37.7V (BXRC-30E10k0-D-73). I read configuration "C>B>D" at the end "D-73", so I thought the "C" cob might be better. But the 36/37V seems like it would be much easier to work with. I'm going to work out a setup with both and see what seems to work better... I'm guessing the "D" might be though.

The very first tutorial link I posted, the guy had one smaller driver per cob. Is there an advantage or disadvantage to doing this? I can't seem to find an answer to that. Or is it personal preference?
> Found this Instructional Manual, it seems to help partially answer this question.
> http://menarilighting.com/rapidled/documentation/VERO29 4' x 4' instructions.pdf

Also, I've read that Series is the way you want to run your cobs ideally. (reduces other risks like thermal run, However, if one cob goes out then the whole unit goes out.... but, I guess it's a simple fix of replacing the cob.

To be honest, I haven't research the heatsink aspect in depth yet. Ideally I'd like passive, as it seems like it's one less thing that can go wrong. But it might be safer for me to use active if I'm not exactly sure how much cooling is enough cooling. I will look into this more now, but as long as I run them under 80W I should be okay with passive? (I read 133mm PIN heatsink, as a Minimum size for Vero29/Cree.)
>The Test on that cob was 2.1A, 85C, so if I put a 2100mA driver and pull 79.17W that should work.

GBAUTO said:

if you are using series wiring it exposes you to LETHAL voltage. BE CAREFUL.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip, one can never be too careful! (The first time I worked with a 1000W HID kit, it had the wiring on the outside of the ballast, I accidentally touched it with a pair of pliers that had rubber handles......thought it was unplugged.... not something you want to do. Felty funny for a good hour after that.
As long as there is no current going through (not plugged in) it's safe. Once everything is wired, and connections are heatshrinked, it "should" be safe right?

Okay! I think I've finally got this down, well most of it at least. Talk about analysis-paralysis lol....30+Hours now....

I would build two units. Here is what one unit would look like; About 4ft by 4ft unit, 12 cobs, spaced 10-12" apart.

[Cob]
9x (3000k) BXRC-30E10k0-D-73 (2.1A , 85C , 37.7V , 143lm/W , 80CRI) https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/bridgelux/BXRC-30E10K0-D-73/976-1399-ND/6152409
3x (5000k) BXRC-50C10k1-D-73 (2.1A , 85C , 37.7V , 159lm/W , 70CRI) https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/bridgelux/BXRC-50C10K1-D-73/BXRC-50C10K1-D-73-ND/7691073

[Driver]
2x HLG-480H-C1750B (137-274V , Max 340V) https://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mean-Well/HLG-480H-C1750B/?qs=/ha2pyFadujNKHSI3o%2bznCbwHa7%2bv0IdrhirbpyW/HgcRhhMvzVaYA==
>I was leaning towards the 2100mA since that is what the LED was tested on, but I like the output at 1750mA better
> This driver (480W/1750mA) should be able to run 7 Cobs per driver. I plan to run 6 Cobs on each driver.
> @1750mA each Cob is running at 65.98W, 12cobs = 791.76W .....just under 800W which is what I was going for.

[Heatsink]
> First pick, 80-100W of heat cooling.. should be enough, headache free if it keeps temperature at appropriate levels. ($305 for 12) https://www.rapidled.com/140mm-pin-heatsink/
>Second pick - same thing as first pick. ($320 for 12) https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/products/sst-x-passive-heatsink-1?variant=1520311271451
> I also considered like a long aluminum bar, 4.25" profile by 42" or 48" or something... but I don't really know how big is big enough. Then I could have one bar per 4 cobs, and add one fan to each aluminum bar. But this might be getting overly complicated...

>Also considering these (Computer Fan+Heatsink) for the active cooling route, Much Cheaper than passive heatsinks surprisingly....I would just have to pick up another driver to run them.
> ( ($180 for 12) https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835200014&cm_re=heatsink-_-35-200-014-_-Product
> ($156 for 12) https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186100&cm_re=heatsink-_-35-186-100-_-Product


_________
[Side-note]
>I Just realized, and hopefully this is not a killer flaw, but I did all my math based on Wattage....So where I have now fit ~1580W in at 4x8 Tent.... have I gone way overboard on lumen output?
>I've read we want 5000-6000lm per sqft. (4x8 = 32sqf.), so 160,000-192,000 lumen.
>(I don't know what the lm/w is at 1750mA, but at 2100mA it's 143lm/W, at 1580W thats ~225,940lm)

@Joint Monster
I just built some lights using Vero 29's, 10's and samsung strips. If your going to be ordering your heat sinks from Rapidled I would get everything from them, use the 10% off first order, or wait for black friday to see any sales. The shipping alone on those heat sinks will be killer. 8x4 is a huge space but two of these kits will grow anything, no need for reflectors but I would pay extra for the poke in connectors. I see alot of canadian sites mixed in with your links youve posted so I assume your also in canada, I am as well. I priced and compared everywhere and ordering from Rapid came out to be the cheapest, and easiest for me including using Canadian Suppliers.
Hope this Helps
https://www.rapidled.com/vero29-4-x-4-grow-kit/

Looks like you have a workable design. the only suggestion I would make is using the SE version. The molex connector for the standard version is rated for 300V, I think so you would exceed the insulation rating of the connector. Definitely going to be bright in the tent! I use the Rapid 140 sinks on my rig and they do a great job.

@nc208
Thanks for the reply. Thanks for pointing out that 10% off first order code, I didn't even notice it....that will help a lot! Digikey is showing $0 shipping charge, but rapidled is still a few cents cheaper for each cob, and their drivers are cheaper to! Hopefully shipping doesn't kill me.... I will find out soon.
>If I order from RapidLed , I will go with the passive 144mm Heatsinks. (And buy everything else form them to.)
>If it is really crazy for shipping, I will look into cpu fan+heatsinks from newegg.

[Rapid's 4x4 kit]
>I saw that 4x4 grow kit.... what I don't like about it is that they make you choose 12 of the same cob. Then would 3500k (x12) be better than, 3000k (x9) + 5000k (x3)? (I liked the mixed spectrum, however I have not seen side-by-side comparisons).
>Also they're using 1400mA drivers (x4) which would output 1266W versus 1583W at 1750mA. (317W difference.)
> If I choose my own mix of cobs, the two "HLG-480H-C1750B" drivers, and put everything in the "cart" separately on RapidLed, then there is a difference of $200CAD (MORE, for both units total) versus just buying the 4x4 kit.
>These figures do not count for their "rail system" that is another $500+CAD (for two units).... I'll go to a hardware shop for that thank you very much lol.

@GBAUTO
Thanks again mate. Yeah, I wanted to solder lol.... but I'll probably swap for SE models. (I did not know their molex connector was only rated 300v!)

Joint Monster said:

@nc208
Thanks for the reply. Thanks for pointing out that 10% off first order code, I didn't even notice it....that will help a lot! Digikey is showing $0 shipping charge, but rapidled is still a few cents cheaper for each cob, and their drivers are cheaper to! Hopefully shipping doesn't kill me.... I will find out soon.
>If I order from RapidLed , I will go with the passive 144mm Heatsinks. (And buy everything else form them to.)
>If it is really crazy for shipping, I will look into cpu fan+heatsinks from newegg.

[Rapid's 4x4 kit]
>I saw that 4x4 grow kit.... what I don't like about it is that they make you choose 12 of the same cob. Then would 3500k (x12) be better than, 3000k (x9) + 5000k (x3)? (I liked the mixed spectrum, however I have not seen side-by-side comparisons).
>Also they're using 1400mA drivers (x4) which would output 1266W versus 1583W at 1750mA. (317W difference.)
> If I choose my own mix of cobs, the two "HLG-480H-C1750B" drivers, and put everything in the "cart" separately on RapidLed, then there is a difference of $200CAD (MORE, for both units total) versus just buying the 4x4 kit.
>These figures do not count for their "rail system" that is another $500+CAD (for two units).... I'll go to a hardware shop for that thank you very much lol.

@GBAUTO
Thanks again mate. Yeah, I wanted to solder lol.... but I'll probably swap for SE models. (I did not know their molded connector was only rated 300v!!!!!)

Click to expand...

Not to worry RapidLED is all about customization. Shoot them an email of what your wanting and they can put together a custom kit for you. Mix and match your cob spectrums or even change drivers to your liking.

Joint Monster said:

@nc208

[Rapid's 4x4 kit]
>I saw that 4x4 grow kit.... what I don't like about it is that they make you choose 12 of the same cob. Then would 3500k (x12) be better than, 3000k (x9) + 5000k (x3)? (I liked the mixed spectrum, however I have not seen side-by-side comparisons).
>Also they're using 1400mA drivers (x4) which would output 1266W versus 1583W at 1750mA. (317W difference.)
> If I choose my own mix of cobs, the two "HLG-480H-C1750B" drivers, and put everything in the "cart" separately on RapidLed, then there is a difference of $200CAD (MORE, for both units total) versus just buying the 4x4 kit.
>These figures do not count for their "rail system" that is another $500+CAD (for two units).... I'll go to a hardware shop for that thank you very much lol.

@GBAUTO
Thanks again mate. Yeah, I wanted to solder lol.... but I'll probably swap for SE models. (I did not know their molex connector was only rated 300v!)

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I would email Mike @ Rapid and ask him if it's possible to put together a custom kit-they may surprise you.

Michiganjesse said:

CMH have you considered just got one and love it. Mars is ok I have one but not top of the line two 315 lec/ CMH would be your best bet get the same production as a 600hps and way better than the led you listed I have each light you listed except kind but with them your paying for a name mars is not much different.

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Hi Michiganjesse! What brand Of CMH did you go with? How long have they been running?