Please help

organic grow
I know I have a calcium problem but what is the other?
Please help ty

how close and what type light, could be light bleaching or
that looks like a micro nute def
it might be an iron def which would be the most common def of micros

do you know the ph?
did you build the soil or buy it?

are you fertilizing and if so what fertilizer

is your fertilizer high in P ?
it would be very rare but excessive can can lock out iron

why do you believe your calcium def?

It's showing calcium def also you can see it just look closely. I'm using 7.4.4 nutes top dressing. I don't know the ph and it is outdoor.
What should I do?
The soil is ffof.

well light bleaching is ruled out

ffof ph is good from the bag so I don't think its a ph issue

I looked but I see nothing that says calcium def

your fert is 7-4-4 and organic so P issues aren't likely

honestly... im not sure

does the 7-4-4 fertilizer contain a % amount for calcium? likely derived from gypsum ?

I don't know man im stumped

but
if you are calcium def and it does happen to be iron def (that's what it looks like)

calmag has both calcium and iron, its not organic but its water soluble so itll be available quickly compared to the organic fertilizer which would take time

IngredientsTotal Nitrogen (N) 7 %
0.67 % Ammoniacal Nitrogen
0.19 % Urea Nitrogen
0.94 % Other Water Soluble Nitrogen
5.2 % Water Insoluble Nitrogen
Available Phosphate (P2O5) 4 %
Soluble Potash (K2O) 4 %
Calcium (Ca) 6.5 %
Magnesium (Mg) 0.9 %
Sulfur (S) 1.7 %
Iron (Fe) 0.9 %

Derived From: Seabird Guano, Fish Meal, Kelp Meal, Bat Guano, Fish Bone Meal, Rock Phosphate, Blood Meal, Langbeinite,Ferrous Sulfate, Dolomite, Neem Meal, Sulfate of Potash, Oyster Shell, Feather Meal, Greensand, Volcanic Ash, Glacial Rock Dust.

ALSO CONTAINS NONPLANT FOOD INGREDIENTS

2.0 % Humic Acid (Derived from Leonardite)

Look at the last picture all the way on the bottom u can see calcium def.

that fertilizer seems to have a good portion of calcium in it

how much and how often have you been adding it?

nope..don't see it lol

calcium def shows as red or rust colored freckles down low and maybe in the middle and later burns the leaf margins

you might just need to feed it more

Every 9 days I'm feeding it 2 cups.

that sounds like a lot... ive not been growing in organics long but that sounds like a real lot

a real lot

id guess it would be more like every month

I see a couple spots but not enough to indicate calcium def or warrant any response

the main issue is the yellowing of the tops

I cant see how your calcium def feeding that fertilizer every 9 days with 6% calcium in it

you might post in the organic section

the organic peeps hang out in that section

im afraid to guide you wrong

Ok thanks.

for now

id go ahead and give her a spray of Epsom salt 1/2 tsp per gallon and consider watering in 1/4 tsp to the roots every so often (1x per week)

that's a safe amount and wont hurt anything

the fertilizer you have the % for magnesium is relatively low and the leaves have a small amount of fold like a canoe or taco which can indicate mild magnesium def

I don't think the yellowing is related to magnesium def but the leaf cupping is likely

usually the yellowing from magnesium def will show in the middle or lower growth and not in the tops ... but I have seen in rare cases magnesium def can look different in different strains and grows and environments

Cool thanks I just sprayed them so they are kinda wet.

just for comparison

im running an organic grow now

I build the soil adding
for 20 gallons soil equal parts peat, compost and perlite
6 cups fertilizer mix (alfalfa, kelp, crab, neem, fish)
2.5 cups lime dolomite

my plants are 12 weeks of age since rooted and ive only added water, thats it and I have no def. .. no other fertilizer needed

comparatively your adding 2 cups every 9 days and I think its a smaller pot size

I added 8 cups total to span over 12 weeks which averages out to a little over a half cup per week

This is some kind of micronutrient issue, but what is the cause?

There is no calcium deficiency I can see in the photos, who told you this? get close up of what you think is Ca deficiency and/or open picture in cheap little paint program and circle what you think is Ca deficiency? but this doesn't matter because one little spot doesn't mean shit and need full plant whole picture to determine anything anyway.

Sunsetblazin18 said:

IngredientsTotal Nitrogen (N) 7 %
0.67 % Ammoniacal Nitrogen
0.19 % Urea Nitrogen
0.94 % Other Water Soluble Nitrogen
5.2 % Water Insoluble Nitrogen
Available Phosphate (P2O5) 4 %
Soluble Potash (K2O) 4 %
Calcium (Ca) 6.5 %
Magnesium (Mg) 0.9 %
Sulfur (S) 1.7 %
Iron (Fe) 0.9 %

Derived From: Seabird Guano, Fish Meal, Kelp Meal, Bat Guano, Fish Bone Meal, Rock Phosphate, Blood Meal, Langbeinite,Ferrous Sulfate, Dolomite, Neem Meal, Sulfate of Potash, Oyster Shell, Feather Meal, Greensand, Volcanic Ash, Glacial Rock Dust.

ALSO CONTAINS NONPLANT FOOD INGREDIENTS

2.0 % Humic Acid (Derived from Leonardite)

Click to expand...

deficiency sulfur vs iron... iron vs sulfur.... and why? just need more? I don't think so... soil pH out of range?? hmmmm... but why? could too much fertilizers have done this? .. excess elements antagonizing eachother?? plant green tone is kind of light.. but look at some tips burnt down.. hmmmm.... I don't know. Most likely some crazy chemical reactions are going on down there from all the fertilizer.

This is my next thoughts...
What is night time temps? Is it freezing in there?
Do you feed them freezing cold water?

You answered your own question ....

The lockout is what caused the coloring ... Since you " don't know " what your ph is .
Is the issue .... Calmag at 6.5 Start at 1 teaspoon per gallon of water. Pour entire gallon in container. You are trying to rebalance soil PLUS leech all that excessive feed you have dumped on her.

Mobile nutrients are nitrogen in the form of nitrate, phosphorus (P) in the form of phosphate, potassium (K), magnesium (Mg), chlorine (Cl), zinc (Zn) and molybdene (Mo).

Calcium (Ca), sulfur (S), iron (Fe), boron (B) and copper (Cu) are immobile.

If there is a deficiency of mobile nutrients, the symptoms are first seen in the older leaves, as the nutrients are transported to new growth from there. Deficiencies of immobile nutrients first appear in the new growth as the plant was unable to take up sufficient amounts to transport them to the new shoots.

Mobilty or immobility is always relative, plants can transport immobile nutrients to other areas by making use of chelators. A deficiency of these nutrients can be amended by foliar fertilization.
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What does it mean for an element to be mobile or immobile in plants?
Generally speaking, mobile elements are those that can be moved from older to newer tissue in the plant, while immobile ones cannot be. For example, calcium is incorporated into the cell wall, so it is immobile; it cannot be relocated later.

Plants with a deficiency of mobile elements (e.g. nitrogen) will exhibit damage to older tissues as the nutrients are moved to new growth. Conversely, plants lacking immobile elements (e.g. calcium) will exhibit stunted new growth while the older tissues stay healthy. Some elements (e.g. sulphur) fall somewhere between these two extremes.
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A lot of nutrients are wrongly applied or completely wasted because they never reach their target. It is so important to understand how nutrients move within plants in order to make sure that soil- or foliar-applied nutrients are taken up and moved within the plant to the part of the plants where they will be used. Knowing how nutrients move also can help us apply nutrients at the right time during the season.

Which nutrients are non-mobile?
Eighteen mineral nutrients including Carbon, Hydrogen and Oxygen are commonly described as essential for plants. Many scientists have added silicon (Si) as an essential element to their list. Of the elements that are essential to crop production and applied to crops through the use of fertilizers, only 7 (N, P, K, Mg, Na, Cl, and S) are mobile in all crops. There are 9 nutrients which are limited in how they move in most crop plants.

Phloem mobile or not?
Surprisingly all nutrients move in the xylem. When we’re talking about non-mobile nutrients we’re really talking about the nutrients that won’t move in the phloem. The xylem is for carrying water and nutrients from the roots upward toward the leaves. The phloem is for carrying sugar, other metabolites and nutrients either upward or downward in a plant (depending on time of day). Phloem mobility is the key for a nutrient to be redistributed within the plant once it is taken up. It is also a key to successful movement of nutrients applied to the foliage. Zinc, for example is needed mostly in the growing points and in newly expanding leaves. Most foliar applied Zinc hits the older leaves where it is not needed. Since it doesn’t move well in the phloem, most of it stays in the leaves and never hits the target.

Any nutrient that is sufficient in the soil will be carried up to the leaves in sufficient quantities. The non-mobile nutrients are the problem. If, for even a short time, the soil is not able to supply what the plant requires, rapidly growing plant parts quickly become deficient in the non-mobile nutrients because they cannot be moved from older leaves, roots, stems or wood to the plant part in need. A classic example is Calcium (non-mobile) deficiency symptoms in supposedly Calcium-rich soils. Blossom rot on tomatoes, bitter pit in apples and hollow heart on potatoes are often aggravated by a lack of soil moisture during hot weather. The lack in soil moisture reduces the amount of water and Calcium moving up the plant. The little bit of remaining Calcium tends to move toward leaves, not toward the fruit (xylem movement is mainly toward leaves, phloem movement is mainly toward fruit).

Some important exceptions
Non-mobile nutrients are stored in the leaves by specific binding proteins. Some plant growth regulators and biostimulants can down regulate the genes for these proteins and cause these nutrients to become mobile.