Question about drivers
- Thread starter Heisengrow
- Start date
mahiluana
Well-Known Member
hi brother 4` x 5` Yes
- cool down with cold beer and wire your fingers in parallel with your growing grow head room -and all drivers will wire your chips in series as long as you limit your personal current to control
space, time and state of mind.
GrowLightResearch
Well-Known Member
Heisengrow
Well-Known Member
So the cobs don't emit any light to the either side of the diode?sounds weird.if they only emit light in a 6 inch square that' is a waste
GrowLightResearch
Well-Known Member
I did not have a 4x5 plot handy. I could do a simulation with his setup but that would take a few minutes of effort and the OP does not seem interested.
GrowLightResearch
Well-Known Member
Yes they will but the irradiance will be so much less. All the CoBs will be contributing to the total irradiance across the entire canopy. when you get to the edges the irradiance gets very weak.
The majority of irradiance at any given point is from the adjacent CoBs.
The irradiance from each CoB is additive. Depends on the height.. Height is critical too.
mahiluana
Well-Known Member
exactly - but make shure that Vf of your chip isn`t higher ~41,5V
look to the datasheet of @GrowLightResearch and estimate your real Vf -
which depend on the Tj of the chip - and can be a bit higher in a cold winter morning, starting a cold chip
Heisengrow
Well-Known Member
The chip is the bridgelux vero29 gen 7 d series 3500k Fv is 38.7
Heisengrow
Well-Known Member
Yeah man I have been researching cobs and quantum boards all week.im not discounting what you are saying it just don' make sense that there would be no footprint on the other side of the diodes.
GrowLightResearch
Well-Known Member
This is a simulation of one bar of 5 CoBs 12" apart. Measured from the center point to 6" past the end of the bar. You can see it drops off quick.
GrowLightResearch
Well-Known Member
The Bridgelux EB Gen2 and Samsung F-Series, cannot be beat for cost or performance.
I just bought 7 strips to measure the actual irradiance vs. the simulated. For you setup you'd add an 11" EB strip to the 44" EB. I have a $3,000 spectrometer to measure the actual PPFD. I am expecting well over 1000 µmol/m²/s based on a Reddit post.
I am not a fan of QB either. LEDs are too concentrated vs. strips for uniformity. And cost. The EB Gen 2 are dirt cheap. QB's too expensive for me and not good enough.
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mahiluana
Well-Known Member
for 2 cold beers (one for mä)
you should always know Vf and If of your chips to know the watts on the wall -
if then your driver works with 94% efficiency your powermeter will show
Vf * If + (100-94%)
the min. with hlg185h-c1050 = 95v * 0,525A = 49,8W
the max. = ~ 209v * 1,05A = 219W
Vf = 5 x 38,7v is close to perfect
Heisengrow
Well-Known Member
Thank you guys for all the help.i think this is what I'll be going with.so 40 cobs per 4x10 and 8 drivers.i think they may run cooler with not having to work so hard also.ill have a 9000btu mini split zone for each room.3 rooms total with 4x10 scrogs.
GrowLightResearch
Well-Known Member
I showed the Max values. But maybe for an older revision of the V29. I do not use typical.
Min Typ Max for BXRC-xxx10Kx-D-7x @ 2100mA 35.8, 38.7, 41.6
I'm on at least my sixth by now. Sam Adam's '76
A voltmeter is a must, A voltmeter that reads milli-volts is recommended. I like this one with a temperature problem too. I liked it enough to buy another. It has a USB port for logging.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G1PJ2XI/
I also highly recommend putting a 0.01Ω resistor on each wire coming from the driver driver.
Read the voltage across the resistor and you have to exact current.
I'm currently testing these from Digikey:
LVR01R0100FE70 RES 0.01 OHM 1% 1W AXIAL WW $1.95
SR3R0100FE66 RES 0.01 OHM 1% 3W RADIAL $0.76
BR3FB10L0 RES 0.01 OHM 3W 1% RADIAL $0.78
MSR1-0R01F1 RES 0.01 OHM 1W 1% RADIAL $0.90
GrowLightResearch
Well-Known Member
Kick some ass with them. I'm too anal about cost and efficiency. Your stuff will still work great.
Temperature is very important. I will not run an LED that get's too hot to touch and hold on to (i.e. 50°C). I almost never will go above Test Current.
mahiluana
Well-Known Member
mahiluana
Well-Known Member
i`m on @ my last - see you
Heisengrow
Well-Known Member
That shit looks fancy.im already running water chillers for dwc.if I was in dirt or coco I would definitey go that route with some old cpu water chillers.my brother builds aluminum boat towers.i could weld up some square tubes and mount the cobs on plates attached to the tubes and run water through the square tubes.remove all the heat.
mahiluana
Well-Known Member
no welding needed - flange + rubber is tight enough for low pressure loop
- easy&cheap heatsink to diy // cost you 40 feet of tube +fittings ---and
--- you could prepare ~200L of hot service water per day if your grow space is close to your household.
CobKits
Well-Known Member
they emit at about a 120 degree pattern. every datasheet shows the pattern (though all cobs are about the same). you can narrow the beam with reflectors if needed
