QWISO - Keeping Glass Clean

AlGore

Well-Known Member
Ok so, this is prob pretty stupid stuff but its becoming a pain in the ass for me and thought there might be some good tips out there...

First, is it cool to evap a pan full of iso with a slick pad lining the bottom? I read on skunkpharm that polars won't soak into the silicone but not entirely sure why everyone isn't doing this if it's perfectly safe.

Next, I'm trying to keep my pyrex pans, and now my vacuum filter beaker, as clean as possible obviously.

Dish washer leaves sediment and takes an hour each time, also doesn't get all the stuck on left overs from the last evap off. First I was just washing them then rinsing with 99% iso that I use for cleaning computer shit and my glass pipes and stuff, but that is getting expensive, and is such a pain in the ass, lol. I've thought about using the same pan for multiple runs, and that I could reclaim a lil of what I was too lazy to scape from the previous one that way. But then I already know I'm getting more dust and whatnot than I'd like in my shit as is with the first run so I'd rather not.

And now this beaker thing, I just ran some pressed kief(I chopped it up) I've had just laying around forever to see what happens and figured since not much gets in there on a run, I can do a few in a row without having to clean it. But I just let it dry out a bit after the last run and there is a film and sediment chilling all up the inside, so I don't wanna run another one with out rinsing with clean iso, etc...

AHHHHH am I over thinking this shit? lol.
 

Southerner

Well-Known Member
Just use the same dish or whatever over and over again...possibly toss a cover on it if dust is really and issue. Never used a silicone pad for QWISO but the best answer I can find concerning it is:

"Polymers can dissolve, but silicone rubber won't dissolve in alcohol. It will swell to some degree depending on the type of silicone and degree of cross-linking of the polymer. When this happens, the polymer is essentially trying to dissolve, and taking solvent into its structural lattice. It could swell to many times the original size. But when the alcohol is removed and allowed to evaporate, it will return to the original state, it had not dissolved, or melted."

So sounds like it shouldnt be a problem.
 

qwizoking

Well-Known Member
I won't let silicone touch my extracts... it leaches. For sure. It says medical grade silicone with no logos.....in the medical and pharmaceutical industry silicone contaminants are a known problem..it doesn't matter how pure or whatever, its completely soluble in the solvents we use. Even in the medical industry we are aware and try not to leech but yea it happens. That's why the silicone tubing will become stiff and will lose its stretchiness...silicone shouldn't be used with butane or really even iso or etoh as its still somewhat miscible..the completely pure cannabinoids aren't much better for direct contact...... "In the body crystalline silica particles do not dissolve over clinically relevant periods. Silica crystals can activate the NLRP3 inflammasome inside macrophages and dendritic cells and thereby result in processing of pro-Interleukin 1 beta into its mature form. Chronic exposure to silica may thereby account for some of its health hazards, as interleukin-1 is a highly pro-inflammatory cytokine in the immune system. [26][27][28] This effect can create an occupational hazard for people working with sandblasting equipment, products that contain powdered crystalline silica and so on. Children, asthmatics of any age, allergy sufferers, and the elderly (all of whom have reducedlung capacity) can be affected in much less time. Amorphous silica, such as fumed silica is not associated with development of silicosis, but may cause irreversible lung damage in some cases. [29]

Laws restricting silica exposure with respect to the silicosis hazard specify that they are concerned only with silica that is both crystalline and dust-forming."

Sooo idk how smoked silicone would effect you....not good long term I don't think... I plan on smoking hash for a good few more decades... I wouldn't advise to blast or store long term..but as fade would say, even oxygen is toxic at high doses, all in the amount...something like that atleast..... I don't know..until someone does some research or already has the prior knowledge(I don't feel confident 100% in my own knowledge of the subject). And can tell me assuredly there will be no issues,especially accumulate overtime and all that.. Iwon't use it...

most articles talking about the swelling also talk about tear strength, compression, or color. Being altered from the use...if it migrates in or gets absorbed to cause swelling it leaches when it comes back out
Combined a couple quotes

Oh and if your confused why I said silica.....
"When silicone is burned in air or oxygen, it forms solid silica (silicon dioxide) as a white powder, char, and various gases. The readily dispersed powder is sometimes called silica fume."










Now about keeping your stuff clean.. don't bother throwing in the dish washer or anything.you want a dish with hard corners to minimize what you can't scrape with a razorblade.. it kinda reduces the quality slightly of your next batch with old material..have a designated storage area for all hash making equipment. After I scrape I cover my dish and put all my materials in that clean cabinet or whatever to prevent dust and poop.....I don't know what you mean about the beaker thing
 

midnitetoak

Active Member
I made the mistake of leaving leftovers from previous BHO runs in my Pyrex which caused the wax texture to become inconsistent... Still got me pretty baked tho just looked kinda weird. I just do like you and use ISO to wipe everything down... I have been reclaiming oil from my tools, tubes and pans this way and just reclaimed my rig which was getting clogged from all the wax ive been dabbing waiting for my buds to cure....tastes like blah but also effectively gets you baked which mitigates the cost IMO. To answer the question yes you are overthinking this... ISO is cheap as fuck...you could try everclear as an alternative but costs about the same as 99% ISO tho you can find a larger bottle on the cheap if you buy in bulk.
 

AlGore

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the input on the slickpad, was just a thought, I've used it in the past for very low volume bho reclaim, which went into banana bread if I remember right, but yea, gonna avoid it for smokeable stuff.

And yea, it's cheap enough I suppose. Esp if I get 91% at the store. Although the 99 cleans so fucking well, lol.

Soap and water with a sponge actually works pretty good but so much bull shit in my water there is always crap leftover when it dries, lol. I was thinking maybe a sanitize solution or something to rinse it in after but w/e. I'll just keep using iso to clean, shit makes the glass shine so pretty. ;-)

btw, the beaker thing: http://www.amazon.com/1000ml-Vacuum-Filter-Hand-Pump/dp/B003SSM77K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1390001202&sr=8-1&keywords=vacuum+filtration

One more dumb question, what do you guys store your concentrates in? All the shops give it out in lil plastic containers with or w/o parchment and some use mini glass jars. What sort of dangers are we talking about here keeping it in something like that for weeks/months? I assume glass is best, assuming it's quality glass. Any brands or suggestions on what to get?
 

qwizoking

Well-Known Member
Ah ol' buchner
Well you can't scrape plastic, but I would feel fine storing in it provided its you know high density(hdpe) I would think they would be. For the most part plastic is pretty safe, I mean most iso is found stored in plastic bottles but generally plastic should be avoided as it really likes thc and such, will absorb it

parchment paper is made by running sheets of paper pulp through abath of sulfuric acid [1] (a method similar to how tracing paper is made) This process partially dissolves or gelatinizes the paper. This treatment forms a sulfurized cross-linked material with high density, stability, and heat resistance, and low surface energy – thereby imparting good non-stick or release properties. The treated paper has an appearance similar to that of traditional parchment.......

then baking parchment... a coated paper, for which a suitable release agent — acoating with a low surface energy and capability to withstand the temperatures involved in the baking or roasting process — is deposited onto the paper's surface; silicone (cured with a suitable catalyst) is frequently used.


So you can see that depending on the type of parchment it may or may not contain a coating..the ones without a coating can stick to hash and can be tricky removing..kinda like the plastic...Ive used it a few times..I've even used aluminum foil

I don't really have a good answer on how to store it..I use a wide short glass vial thing most of the time or a small plastic container..I'm pretty lazy and sometimes just leave it stuck to a razor blade and cut chunks off when I use..I store that in a clean drawer in my coffee table:) but yea i don't really know of the perfect container...kinda like scraping, well we all use razorblades scrape off with another and transfer to your container or leave it on the blade..there are razor blade holders that help but both containers and method of scraping need improved

Side note.....if you use a whip style vape a lot..you will notice the outside of the tube gets sticky as the hash migrates
 

AlGore

Well-Known Member
Yea, I'm not a fan of the parchment at all. I would assume the contianers I'm getting are safe. Most are lil hard plastic dishes with twist on lids, my fav shop uses softer ones that snap togther clam shell style. Then some use glass vials like your talking about with screw on plastic lids.

The glass ones seem to actually waste more as it gets stuck to it better, but there is also always that film on the bottom of the plastic ones as well. Overall not really concerned about that level of loss.

Maybe I'll post some pics later, gonna be posting some asking about this white milk from that keif wash I mentioned in the first post, looks crazy atm, lol.
 

lio lacidem

Well-Known Member
I use a blown glass bowl type thing. Cost 30 bucks had it for years. The nice part about it is very wide top so i can actually wipe clean with iso when it gets gunky or if im putting something special in it.
 

BluJayz

Well-Known Member
Did I catch this right, you use 91% for your extract and 99% for cleaning your pipe?

Might want to switch that around. The 99% "technical" iso is the same as Walgreen's 99% iso.

We use iso to remove any remaining gunk. You would never know it was used for wax.



The "milky white" is the left over water and alcohol going trough some sort of reaction causing it to perspire white. (Someone will chime in with more details) Let it dry there is still some oil in it.
 

AlGore

Well-Known Member
Did I catch this right, you use 91% for your extract and 99% for cleaning your pipe?

Might want to switch that around. The 99% "technical" iso is the same as Walgreen's 99% iso.

We use iso to remove any remaining gunk. You would never know it was used for wax.



The "milky white" is the left over water and alcohol going trough some sort of reaction causing it to perspire white. (Someone will chime in with more details) Let it dry there is still some oil in it.
Haha, thanks, yea it was still very liquid at that point, that kief run turned out kinda crazy, ran some popcorn as well, it ended up pretty nice.

And not exactly. I have always ordered 99% tech grade for cleaning computer parts, mostly thermal surfaces, also have lil handy wipes of the same stuff. I used to use 91% to clean glass or the volcano, replacing formula 420/710 for the former. But then I started using the 99 tech stuff for cleaning and it works so much better than the 91 imo. For my most recent ventures in qwiso I've been using 99% reagent.
 
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