Reverse Engineering everyone's nutrients

The_Enthusiast

Active Member
i have for a few brands
GH 3 part
GH 1part
advanced 3 part
technaflora

they all run ratios something between
1:2:3 or 1:1:2 or 2:1:4
N : P : K

for example in ppm:
80:40:120 or 60:60:120 or 70:35:140
Yea, but if you calculate, as i did before NPK ratio doesn't correlate to PPM ratio. I'll have to find my calculation spreedsheet of some nutrient brand it was.. example 1:1:1 and ih had something like 60-80-100 or something (i really cant remember now) ppm per element. Because NPK is written in lets say P205 equivalent and P2O5 has this:
P - atomic mass: 30.97
O - atomic mass: 8.00
So P2O5 has molar mass 2xP and 5xO -> 61.94(P) and 40(O) so from that there is only 60.7% P in that

Potassium is usually written in K2O equivalent
same story:
K - atomic mass: 39.1
O - atomic mass: 8.0
So K2O has molar mass: 86.2, and there is about 90.7% K in that

So to conclude: 1:1 P:K ratio they write down in equivalent form (P205 or K20) has a actual 0.607 : 0.907 ratio
 

Redoctober

Well-Known Member
Advanced Nutrients sells to gullible uninformed and naive people who have never cracked a chemistry text in their lives, and preys most profitably on their ignorance.
Do we know if Advanced is using the exact same NPK as GH and just adding aminos? Is it the same formula?
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
Yea, but if you calculate, as i did before NPK ratio doesn't correlate to PPM ratio. I'll have to find my calculation spreedsheet of some nutrient brand it was.. example 1:1:1 and ih had something like 60-80-100 or something (i really cant remember now) ppm per element. Because NPK is written in lets say P205 equivalent and P2O5 has this:
P - atomic mass: 30.97
O - atomic mass: 8.00
So P2O5 has molar mass 2xP and 5xO -> 61.94(P) and 40(O) so from that there is only 60.7% P in that

Potassium is usually written in K2O equivalent
same story:
K - atomic mass: 39.1
O - atomic mass: 8.0
So K2O has molar mass: 86.2, and there is about 90.7% K in that

So to conclude: 1:1 P:K ratio they write down in equivalent form (P205 or K20) has a actual 0.607 : 0.907 ratio
all of that went over my head... and is likely far beyond my knowledge since I do not understand it...
I can only speak to what my excel spread sheet that automatically does the math for me after I install the parameters
I don't do the math myself.. some peeps use hydro buddy but I prfer the excel version that's floating around

the math(or at least the math the program provides) says I feed my N at 70ppm and my K 120ppm
'
when I input the GH % info the math tells me how much of each element in ppm that im feeding (not counting water source)

GH 3 part bloom with kool bloom
mixed per instructions during mid to late flower

K is double the N as in relationship to elemental ppm
 
Last edited:

im4satori

Well-Known Member
Do we know if Advanced is using the exact same NPK as GH and just adding aminos? Is it the same formula?
im not sure its exact... i could be remembering wrong but if memory serves i think advanced feeds lower P and higher K to N ratios than the GH
 

The_Enthusiast

Active Member
all of that went over my head... and is likely far beyond my knowledge since I do not understand it...
I can only speak to what my excel spread sheet that automatically does the math for me after I install the parameters
I don't do the math myself.. some peeps use hydro buddy but I prfer the excel version that's floating around

the math(or at least the math the program provides) says I feed my N at 70ppm and my K 120ppm
'
when I input the GH % info the math tells me how much of each element in ppm that im feeding (not counting water source)

GH 3 part bloom with kool bloom
mixed per instructions during mid to late flower

K is double the N as in relationship to elemental ppm
If your calculator is correct than everything is in order. When I first started, many years ago I used liquid based premixed (2 or 3 part) solutions, after few years I switched to salt based premixed solutions (micro and macro nutrients).
The problem with prebuild salt solution (powder) is you know what is in the BAG (25kg or 10kg) but not in that 5g or 10g spoon you took.
So after that I switched ( read all the books I found / university grade ) about mixing nutrients.
Again there are at least 4 problems using premixed liquid fertilizers:

1) The ratio of each element in fertilizer isn't in sync with a maybe optimal 100N-100P-200K-60MG-(3-4xMG CAL-> 180-240)

2) Elements aren't alone they are combined like Calcium Nitrate - its always in a ratio so adding it adds N and Ca and fertilizer manufactures don't specifi what compounds they have in their solution

3) Its chemically impossible to have every element in high concentration in a fertilizer - if you checked my solution I have 13 elements I believe. At one concentration (depending on element) they became something else that is insoluble from that moment...

4) Price: before my reservoir change costed 10€ now its between 0.8-1.1€ (same volume)
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I'm running a 5-11-26 plus micros mix, along with calcium nitrate, epsom salt and a dash of MKP.

50 gallons of nutrient solution costs me less than fifty cents US. I admit it isn't as precise as it could be but it's plenty close enough for my needs, and it's as easy to mix as it is cheap.
 

boilingoil

Well-Known Member
How about my Gold Range Zone from Dutch Master?
Here is the breakdown of the label.

0.06% nitrate nitrogen
0.16% K2O
0.06% S
0.1% Cu
Liter bottle
 
Forgive me for butting in again, I posted way back .... But I must try again; Think this through, if you stop using bottled concentrates you will save lots of money. Liquid concentrates are only sold to cannabis growers - why ? Cannabis growers are the only ones who buy liquid concentrates - why ?

There is nothing cannabis-specific to any of those liquid concentrates - there is no reason to believe in the scam perpetuated by the companies that sell liquid fertilizer concentrates. One day we will all agree on this, and we'll remember when we didn't know any better. Yes I am trying to enlighten our community, so start spreading the word ! Liquid fertilizer concentrates are for those that don't know better, but listen up - I'm telling the facts of horticulture....

You can instead use what every professional grower uses - real, super-soluble, unadulterated, scientifically developed and tested, professional grade fertilizers. They existed long before GH or AN or FoxFarms or Botanicare etc etc ever came along and started to sell to uninformed cannabis growers. You can't copy Epsom Salts, Calcium Nitrate or Plant Prod's dry, soluble fertilizers.

The companies like GH, AN, Botanicare etc etc... just add water to the dry fertilizers, and then create a sub-standard product for which there is no chance you'll be able to get a "minimum guarantee" or a guarantee of any kind. Adding water and concentrating is destabilizing to the salts, and enables chemical reactions to occur that will not happen if the water weren't added. Why add water and preservatives to a perfectly good product or nutrient salt ? And why pay so much for less?

One 15 kilo bag of Plant Prod's 20-20-20 / 15-30-15 / 8-20-30 costs $65, and that will make 15,000 liters of nutrient solution.! 25 kg MgSO4 (Epsom salts) costs $30 and that will make up to 125,000 liters of nutrient solution! A 25 kg bag CaNO3 costs $60 and it'll make > 83,000 liters of nutrient solution. Add some potassium silicate to pH up, and you're done ! For $200 you've got a year's worth of fertilizer that never goes off or precipitates, and it's complete - your plants will LOVE all 13 elements being delivered solubilized, chelated and free of methyl paraben and sodium benzoate !

It is like buying Kool Aid with water and preservatives already added - Liquid concentrates are a scam. Every trained horticulturist knows this scam. All fertilizers for plants are dry powders first, and in that dry form they are most stable, and they offer you a "guaranteed minimum analysis". That is important - especially for any "reverse engineering" to calculate ppm of each ingredient.

Every professional horticulturist knows how to calculate the grams of fertilizer needed to deliver the PPM desired in a nutrient solution, but this cannot be done with any hope of accuracy when using liquid concentrates that are unstable, and that are manufactured with wide ranges of accuracy. You're guessing at best since the contents of the bottle are not what's on the label.

The labels on any bottle will not have accurate numbers on them from which one can calculate some element's ppm being delivered. I worked for one of the companies that's mentioned over and over in this thread, I edited their entire production manual, I watched the manufacture of the products daily, and know every formula. Formulas were changed before the bottle's labels were reprinted. And they ALL have huge amounts of unlisted preservatives in them - yes it is true !

Many imperfections occur in mixing these concentrates, usually in batches of 10,000 liters of more at a time. The batches are mixed with hot water, so guess what happens when the stuff is packed and the bottles cool? On some occasions I saw the bottles of a new formulation were labelled with old, outdated labels that had incorrect data. Formulas were changed on the fly because of insolubility issues, and more preservatives were added, with no testing ever done on any plants before stuff was sold with outdated labels on them. They'd do whatever prolonged shelf life, made the manufacturing cheaper or sold more product.

There is no chance of a "minimum guarantee" for any element that's bottled up and concentrated - that's why professional growers would refuse to even try. Some liquid "grow" formulas are 1-0-0 .. that's 99% water ! But you get green dye and maybe some preservative for good measure, in case the bottle starts to grow something of its own. What really is in the bottle ?

The cannabis community once was a bunch of recluse "outsiders" who didn't get easy access to grower-supply stores or basic horticulture extension-services and we all wanted to be covertly growing, so we were a perfect target for the GH,AN,etc etc type companies to sell us the scam of liquid concentrates. We might even like the idea of being catered to by these companies, but they are taking us for suckers, perpetuating the myth that there is something "special" for cannabis in their unreliable products.

I am speaking from experience, forgive me if it sounds like ranting, but how can I convince everyone to understand the horticultural facts about mineral fertilizers ? Don't add water to the fertilizers until you are going to fertigate your crops. And in that case you'd be adding the dry fertilizer to the water - there is no concentrated state ever, and minerals stay in solution.

The science and horticultural know-how used in the real, big, wide world of agriculture and agribusiness is the foundation that cannabis growers can rely on now. Let's share the knowledge! We don't have to be "outsiders" to the truth about growing anymore, it's becoming legal now! Maybe take a course in Horticulture with the money you save when you stop buying liquid concentrates.?
 

CannaReview

Well-Known Member
Forgive me for butting in again, I posted way back .... But I must try again; Think this through, if you stop using bottled concentrates you will save lots of money. Liquid concentrates are only sold to cannabis growers - why ? Cannabis growers are the only ones who buy liquid concentrates - why ?

There is nothing cannabis-specific to any of those liquid concentrates - there is no reason to believe in the scam perpetuated by the companies that sell liquid fertilizer concentrates. One day we will all agree on this, and we'll remember when we didn't know any better. Yes I am trying to enlighten our community, so start spreading the word ! Liquid fertilizer concentrates are for those that don't know better, but listen up - I'm telling the facts of horticulture....

You can instead use what every professional grower uses - real, super-soluble, unadulterated, scientifically developed and tested, professional grade fertilizers. They existed long before GH or AN or FoxFarms or Botanicare etc etc ever came along and started to sell to uninformed cannabis growers. You can't copy Epsom Salts, Calcium Nitrate or Plant Prod's dry, soluble fertilizers.

The companies like GH, AN, Botanicare etc etc... just add water to the dry fertilizers, and then create a sub-standard product for which there is no chance you'll be able to get a "minimum guarantee" or a guarantee of any kind. Adding water and concentrating is destabilizing to the salts, and enables chemical reactions to occur that will not happen if the water weren't added. Why add water and preservatives to a perfectly good product or nutrient salt ? And why pay so much for less?

One 15 kilo bag of Plant Prod's 20-20-20 / 15-30-15 / 8-20-30 costs $65, and that will make 15,000 liters of nutrient solution.! 25 kg MgSO4 (Epsom salts) costs $30 and that will make up to 125,000 liters of nutrient solution! A 25 kg bag CaNO3 costs $60 and it'll make > 83,000 liters of nutrient solution. Add some potassium silicate to pH up, and you're done ! For $200 you've got a year's worth of fertilizer that never goes off or precipitates, and it's complete - your plants will LOVE all 13 elements being delivered solubilized, chelated and free of methyl paraben and sodium benzoate !

It is like buying Kool Aid with water and preservatives already added - Liquid concentrates are a scam. Every trained horticulturist knows this scam. All fertilizers for plants are dry powders first, and in that dry form they are most stable, and they offer you a "guaranteed minimum analysis". That is important - especially for any "reverse engineering" to calculate ppm of each ingredient.

Every professional horticulturist knows how to calculate the grams of fertilizer needed to deliver the PPM desired in a nutrient solution, but this cannot be done with any hope of accuracy when using liquid concentrates that are unstable, and that are manufactured with wide ranges of accuracy. You're guessing at best since the contents of the bottle are not what's on the label.

The labels on any bottle will not have accurate numbers on them from which one can calculate some element's ppm being delivered. I worked for one of the companies that's mentioned over and over in this thread, I edited their entire production manual, I watched the manufacture of the products daily, and know every formula. Formulas were changed before the bottle's labels were reprinted. And they ALL have huge amounts of unlisted preservatives in them - yes it is true !

Many imperfections occur in mixing these concentrates, usually in batches of 10,000 liters of more at a time. The batches are mixed with hot water, so guess what happens when the stuff is packed and the bottles cool? On some occasions I saw the bottles of a new formulation were labelled with old, outdated labels that had incorrect data. Formulas were changed on the fly because of insolubility issues, and more preservatives were added, with no testing ever done on any plants before stuff was sold with outdated labels on them. They'd do whatever prolonged shelf life, made the manufacturing cheaper or sold more product.

There is no chance of a "minimum guarantee" for any element that's bottled up and concentrated - that's why professional growers would refuse to even try. Some liquid "grow" formulas are 1-0-0 .. that's 99% water ! But you get green dye and maybe some preservative for good measure, in case the bottle starts to grow something of its own. What really is in the bottle ?

The cannabis community once was a bunch of recluse "outsiders" who didn't get easy access to grower-supply stores or basic horticulture extension-services and we all wanted to be covertly growing, so we were a perfect target for the GH,AN,etc etc type companies to sell us the scam of liquid concentrates. We might even like the idea of being catered to by these companies, but they are taking us for suckers, perpetuating the myth that there is something "special" for cannabis in their unreliable products.

I am speaking from experience, forgive me if it sounds like ranting, but how can I convince everyone to understand the horticultural facts about mineral fertilizers ? Don't add water to the fertilizers until you are going to fertigate your crops. And in that case you'd be adding the dry fertilizer to the water - there is no concentrated state ever, and minerals stay in solution.

The science and horticultural know-how used in the real, big, wide world of agriculture and agribusiness is the foundation that cannabis growers can rely on now. Let's share the knowledge! We don't have to be "outsiders" to the truth about growing anymore, it's becoming legal now! Maybe take a course in Horticulture with the money you save when you stop buying liquid concentrates.?
There's nothing wrong with bottled nutrients, it's which company make the biggest BS claims about the products and which company charges the most for 90% water. Same thing can be said about food. Why buy food from the grocery store when you can just grow plants and raise animals. Well for 95% of the public out there is not feasible BUT they can get pre packaged/pre cut products and cook their own.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Forgive me for butting in again, I posted way back .... But I must try again; Think this through, if you stop using bottled concentrates you will save lots of money. Liquid concentrates are only sold to cannabis growers - why ? Cannabis growers are the only ones who buy liquid concentrates - why ?

There is nothing cannabis-specific to any of those liquid concentrates - there is no reason to believe in the scam perpetuated by the companies that sell liquid fertilizer concentrates. One day we will all agree on this, and we'll remember when we didn't know any better. Yes I am trying to enlighten our community, so start spreading the word ! Liquid fertilizer concentrates are for those that don't know better, but listen up - I'm telling the facts of horticulture....

You can instead use what every professional grower uses - real, super-soluble, unadulterated, scientifically developed and tested, professional grade fertilizers. They existed long before GH or AN or FoxFarms or Botanicare etc etc ever came along and started to sell to uninformed cannabis growers. You can't copy Epsom Salts, Calcium Nitrate or Plant Prod's dry, soluble fertilizers.

The companies like GH, AN, Botanicare etc etc... just add water to the dry fertilizers, and then create a sub-standard product for which there is no chance you'll be able to get a "minimum guarantee" or a guarantee of any kind. Adding water and concentrating is destabilizing to the salts, and enables chemical reactions to occur that will not happen if the water weren't added. Why add water and preservatives to a perfectly good product or nutrient salt ? And why pay so much for less?

One 15 kilo bag of Plant Prod's 20-20-20 / 15-30-15 / 8-20-30 costs $65, and that will make 15,000 liters of nutrient solution.! 25 kg MgSO4 (Epsom salts) costs $30 and that will make up to 125,000 liters of nutrient solution! A 25 kg bag CaNO3 costs $60 and it'll make > 83,000 liters of nutrient solution. Add some potassium silicate to pH up, and you're done ! For $200 you've got a year's worth of fertilizer that never goes off or precipitates, and it's complete - your plants will LOVE all 13 elements being delivered solubilized, chelated and free of methyl paraben and sodium benzoate !

It is like buying Kool Aid with water and preservatives already added - Liquid concentrates are a scam. Every trained horticulturist knows this scam. All fertilizers for plants are dry powders first, and in that dry form they are most stable, and they offer you a "guaranteed minimum analysis". That is important - especially for any "reverse engineering" to calculate ppm of each ingredient.

Every professional horticulturist knows how to calculate the grams of fertilizer needed to deliver the PPM desired in a nutrient solution, but this cannot be done with any hope of accuracy when using liquid concentrates that are unstable, and that are manufactured with wide ranges of accuracy. You're guessing at best since the contents of the bottle are not what's on the label.

The labels on any bottle will not have accurate numbers on them from which one can calculate some element's ppm being delivered. I worked for one of the companies that's mentioned over and over in this thread, I edited their entire production manual, I watched the manufacture of the products daily, and know every formula. Formulas were changed before the bottle's labels were reprinted. And they ALL have huge amounts of unlisted preservatives in them - yes it is true !

Many imperfections occur in mixing these concentrates, usually in batches of 10,000 liters of more at a time. The batches are mixed with hot water, so guess what happens when the stuff is packed and the bottles cool? On some occasions I saw the bottles of a new formulation were labelled with old, outdated labels that had incorrect data. Formulas were changed on the fly because of insolubility issues, and more preservatives were added, with no testing ever done on any plants before stuff was sold with outdated labels on them. They'd do whatever prolonged shelf life, made the manufacturing cheaper or sold more product.

There is no chance of a "minimum guarantee" for any element that's bottled up and concentrated - that's why professional growers would refuse to even try. Some liquid "grow" formulas are 1-0-0 .. that's 99% water ! But you get green dye and maybe some preservative for good measure, in case the bottle starts to grow something of its own. What really is in the bottle ?

The cannabis community once was a bunch of recluse "outsiders" who didn't get easy access to grower-supply stores or basic horticulture extension-services and we all wanted to be covertly growing, so we were a perfect target for the GH,AN,etc etc type companies to sell us the scam of liquid concentrates. We might even like the idea of being catered to by these companies, but they are taking us for suckers, perpetuating the myth that there is something "special" for cannabis in their unreliable products.

I am speaking from experience, forgive me if it sounds like ranting, but how can I convince everyone to understand the horticultural facts about mineral fertilizers ? Don't add water to the fertilizers until you are going to fertigate your crops. And in that case you'd be adding the dry fertilizer to the water - there is no concentrated state ever, and minerals stay in solution.

The science and horticultural know-how used in the real, big, wide world of agriculture and agribusiness is the foundation that cannabis growers can rely on now. Let's share the knowledge! We don't have to be "outsiders" to the truth about growing anymore, it's becoming legal now! Maybe take a course in Horticulture with the money you save when you stop buying liquid concentrates.?
:clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap:
 

The_Enthusiast

Active Member
There's nothing wrong with bottled nutrients, it's which company make the biggest BS claims about the products and which company charges the most for 90% water. Same thing can be said about food. Why buy food from the grocery store when you can just grow plants and raise animals. Well for 95% of the public out there is not feasible BUT they can get pre packaged/pre cut products and cook their own.
But yes there is, if we put price and ratios apart (and purity) - the next main issue is this:
You just cant CONCENTRATE 13 elements in good ration in 2 or 3 bottles - in concentrations that they are putting it... It's chemically impossible.

And on topic does anyone know where can I score this in Europe: Nickel(II) carbonate / NiCO3. I believe it could be useful in something about 0.6 PPM
 

The_Enthusiast

Active Member
Forgive me for butting in again, I posted way back .... But I must try again; Think this through, if you stop using bottled concentrates you will save lots of money. Liquid concentrates are only sold to cannabis growers - why ? Cannabis growers are the only ones who buy liquid concentrates - why ?

There is nothing cannabis-specific to any of those liquid concentrates - there is no reason to believe in the scam perpetuated by the companies that sell liquid fertilizer concentrates. One day we will all agree on this, and we'll remember when we didn't know any better. Yes I am trying to enlighten our community, so start spreading the word ! Liquid fertilizer concentrates are for those that don't know better, but listen up - I'm telling the facts of horticulture....

You can instead use what every professional grower uses - real, super-soluble, unadulterated, scientifically developed and tested, professional grade fertilizers. They existed long before GH or AN or FoxFarms or Botanicare etc etc ever came along and started to sell to uninformed cannabis growers. You can't copy Epsom Salts, Calcium Nitrate or Plant Prod's dry, soluble fertilizers.

The companies like GH, AN, Botanicare etc etc... just add water to the dry fertilizers, and then create a sub-standard product for which there is no chance you'll be able to get a "minimum guarantee" or a guarantee of any kind. Adding water and concentrating is destabilizing to the salts, and enables chemical reactions to occur that will not happen if the water weren't added. Why add water and preservatives to a perfectly good product or nutrient salt ? And why pay so much for less?

One 15 kilo bag of Plant Prod's 20-20-20 / 15-30-15 / 8-20-30 costs $65, and that will make 15,000 liters of nutrient solution.! 25 kg MgSO4 (Epsom salts) costs $30 and that will make up to 125,000 liters of nutrient solution! A 25 kg bag CaNO3 costs $60 and it'll make > 83,000 liters of nutrient solution. Add some potassium silicate to pH up, and you're done ! For $200 you've got a year's worth of fertilizer that never goes off or precipitates, and it's complete - your plants will LOVE all 13 elements being delivered solubilized, chelated and free of methyl paraben and sodium benzoate !

It is like buying Kool Aid with water and preservatives already added - Liquid concentrates are a scam. Every trained horticulturist knows this scam. All fertilizers for plants are dry powders first, and in that dry form they are most stable, and they offer you a "guaranteed minimum analysis". That is important - especially for any "reverse engineering" to calculate ppm of each ingredient.

Every professional horticulturist knows how to calculate the grams of fertilizer needed to deliver the PPM desired in a nutrient solution, but this cannot be done with any hope of accuracy when using liquid concentrates that are unstable, and that are manufactured with wide ranges of accuracy. You're guessing at best since the contents of the bottle are not what's on the label.

The labels on any bottle will not have accurate numbers on them from which one can calculate some element's ppm being delivered. I worked for one of the companies that's mentioned over and over in this thread, I edited their entire production manual, I watched the manufacture of the products daily, and know every formula. Formulas were changed before the bottle's labels were reprinted. And they ALL have huge amounts of unlisted preservatives in them - yes it is true !

Many imperfections occur in mixing these concentrates, usually in batches of 10,000 liters of more at a time. The batches are mixed with hot water, so guess what happens when the stuff is packed and the bottles cool? On some occasions I saw the bottles of a new formulation were labelled with old, outdated labels that had incorrect data. Formulas were changed on the fly because of insolubility issues, and more preservatives were added, with no testing ever done on any plants before stuff was sold with outdated labels on them. They'd do whatever prolonged shelf life, made the manufacturing cheaper or sold more product.

There is no chance of a "minimum guarantee" for any element that's bottled up and concentrated - that's why professional growers would refuse to even try. Some liquid "grow" formulas are 1-0-0 .. that's 99% water ! But you get green dye and maybe some preservative for good measure, in case the bottle starts to grow something of its own. What really is in the bottle ?

The cannabis community once was a bunch of recluse "outsiders" who didn't get easy access to grower-supply stores or basic horticulture extension-services and we all wanted to be covertly growing, so we were a perfect target for the GH,AN,etc etc type companies to sell us the scam of liquid concentrates. We might even like the idea of being catered to by these companies, but they are taking us for suckers, perpetuating the myth that there is something "special" for cannabis in their unreliable products.

I am speaking from experience, forgive me if it sounds like ranting, but how can I convince everyone to understand the horticultural facts about mineral fertilizers ? Don't add water to the fertilizers until you are going to fertigate your crops. And in that case you'd be adding the dry fertilizer to the water - there is no concentrated state ever, and minerals stay in solution.

The science and horticultural know-how used in the real, big, wide world of agriculture and agribusiness is the foundation that cannabis growers can rely on now. Let's share the knowledge! We don't have to be "outsiders" to the truth about growing anymore, it's becoming legal now! Maybe take a course in Horticulture with the money you save when you stop buying liquid concentrates.?
I totally agree with you, this part of horticulture should be debunked. Nutrient and light wise. Maybe few people on this forum would like to collaborate and write a nice little beginner/advanced PDF that would structure NUTRIENTS and LIGHTS to start of (and it should be in metric and imperial system) I'm volunteering if a project like that arises.
 
These days we cannabis growers can always obtain the same 3 dry fertilizers used by professional growers; it's nothing requiring an 'elite' or special access.

At the back of every cannabis-grow-store you will find all 3 dry fertilizers I mentioned. They hide the stuff, but will sell it to anyone who asks!

In farming communities the "Farmer's Supply" store or the "Grower's Supply" co-op will stock everything in bulk and these stores are the cheapest source.

All grow shops sell a base fertilizer like the Canadian brand called Plant Prod; use 20-20-20 for veg' growth or 15-30-15 for blooming and 8-20-30 for finishing. Use 1.0 grams per liter of the base fertilizer for full strength (850 ppm +/- 100).

Every grow store I go into I ask to see their big bags of CaNO3 and MgSO4, and they will be buried in the back, costing very little. Use CaNO3 at 0.3g/liter and MgSO4 at 0.2g/liter.

These dry powders make a perfectly soluble, totally complete, nutrient solutuion with all chelated-micronutrients.

After the base fertilizer raises the res' ppm to ~850ppm, the CaNO3 and MgSO4 will raise the reservoir's ppm to around 1150 - 1250ppm. Add potassium silicate and use some pH Up (potassium hydroxide- KOH) to bring the pH above 6.5 and the final concentration will be near 1350 ppm, I personally bring pH to 7.0, and see a pH drop in my soil leachate to as low as 5.9-6.2 pH when watering to run off. This leachate should have a salinity of 2400 - 3000 ppm, and not be increasing over time.
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
do i need to use mpk if i switch to Jack's blossom booster during flower? plan was to start out using classic Jack's, then switch to booster 1 gram per week after the 12/12 switch, so by the 4th week it would be straight booster.
 
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