Root Development vs Plant Growth

Brick Top

New Member
I realize thats what you want.. My point is that the immobility is to be expected with copper hydroxide/carbonate.. They're really insoluble.. Making those stay put is no braggable task, they pretty much do that by themselves..
And I suppose they could toss some more mobile things like micros into the mix.. They could migrate into the soil while the majority of copper in OH/CO3 form would stay put.. I don't know if I'd want micros in that or not.. Alot of ppl have issues with Ca & Mg imbalances as it is.. Too many multitasking garden products are bound to conflict..

If you have any concerns you can always use one of the different types of pots that basically do the same thing just in a different way. Like the Rootmaker pot that air-prunes roots. The way it is done is different than using chemicals but the result is the same.

I will not say if one is better or more efficient but the same general action is performed so there are options to chemicals if someone has concerns about any imbalance occurring of possibly even health concerns.
 

born2killspam

Well-Known Member
I have no qualms paying BIG bucks for anything that returns the investment, but only if a really cheap solution doesn't do as good a job.. I can make loads of copper hydroxide..
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
I am real skeptical about containers that use air to root-tip prune as the right RH conditions must be present for this method to be effective. Roots are tenacious and will keep on growing and only die off as a last resort due to low RH.
 

pothed1

Active Member
LOL i have many years of exp of basically growing untechnically in mud,many people here i am sure know a damn site more than me.

One thing i do know is how to grow a great plant from a pot of mud and about helping to keep plants healthy and trained for your situation,i am fairly good at identifying problems with the plants as i have had so many problems myself over the years.

Anyway i have heard that you can feed your plants vitamin b complexes to improve growth rate and yield but i have never used it myself.
I did once try crushed kelp tablets but i found that it helped to encourage soil mould so i no longer did it.

Plants do need vitamins yes but how many and how often is not something that i really know about and i think it is probably more relevant to hyrdo/aero growers as well maintained soil with the correct nutrients will encourage the plant to produce for its own needs.

I have noticed that one of the key ingredients in molasses which is probably why many people who grow in soil rave about molasses is vitamin b as well as the carbs molasses has a large amount of vitamin b amongst other things as well as acting as a chelating agent which helps root growth in soil anyway.

Anyway please dont think i think im a know it all,i know that i only know a small amount of the knowledge and i know nothing hardly at all when it comes to hydro/aero/dwc etc.:peace:
dude exepert or not u cud defintly help me lol im a new soil growa and was have transpanted once in to 10inch by 10inch pots. i dnt no hw many litrs that is...im in 4th week of flowering and just noticed that roots are showing at the bottom ....is it too late to transplant??? do i need to transplant??? plants r betwen 3 n 4 feet tall indica supe skunk ... 250 wat hps on 5 girls...any help wud be much appreciated
 

born2killspam

Well-Known Member
Electrolysis of water with copper electrodes is easiest.. NaOH/KOH would be the best electrolyte, but baking soda would also be fine.. It will form as a blue-green precipitate.. (Green addition would actually be copper carbonate..
In anycase, if its in precipitate form in unsaturated water then it should stay immobile if mixed into a latex paint..
 

StlSoldier531

Active Member


Pot size DOES NOT matter ;)

I just to show that HUGE plants can be grown in small containers ...

Not my plant by the way .. it was a random pic I came across and I thought about this thread when I saw it
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member


Pot size DOES NOT matter ;)

I just to show that HUGE plants can be grown in small containers ...

Not my plant by the way .. it was a random pic I came across and I thought about this thread when I saw it
Huge plants can be grown in small containers, that's not the issue. Doesn't mean the plant's full potential could not have been realized in a larger container. There's a lot of yellowing fan leaves in the shot shown.

UB
 

StlSoldier531

Active Member
Huge plants can be grown in small containers, that's not the issue. Doesn't mean the plant's full potential could not have been realized in a larger container. There's a lot of yellowing fan leaves in the shot shown.

UB
1.) Yellowing leaves are not a bad thing when a plant is close to harvest because the plant isn't growing anymore and it is about to DIE anyways .. lol .. Green leaves up to the Harvest date are good but are NOT needed .. besides .. there are like 12 yellowing leaves (most of the others are still green) .. and how many leaves are on the whole plant?? Easily a 1000 or more ... and that plant is close to the end of the season ..

2.) Flushing a plant a few weeks before harvest will cause leaves to turn Yellow because the plant begins to use the remaining nutrients inside of it's leaves when there are no more nutrients in the root zone .. This also causes stress to the plant which can cause it to produce MORE trichs ..

3.) FULL POTENTIAL??!! A plant reaching it's full potential involves A LOT more than a specific Pot size .. Even plants grown in ground under full sun light do not always reach their full potential .. lol .. I have seen SMALL plants that are UNHEALTHY in LARGE pots, and have also seen plants in small pots that are BIG, HEALTHY and HAPPY .. any experienced grower will tell you that .. and if you have eyes you can clearly see that example just by searching the forums, doing grows and talking to other growers .. Environment plays the BIGGEST part in "FULL POTENTIAL" .. you as a grower should know that much ..

So STOP TROLLING!!! ;)
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
1.) Yellowing leaves are not a bad thing when a plant is close to harvest
Don't fall for the bullshit. Yellowing leaves is a grower problem usually brought on by low N bloom foods.

2.) Flushing a plant a few weeks before harvest will cause leaves to turn Yellow because the plant begins to use the remaining nutrients inside of it's leaves when there are no more nutrients in the root zone .. This also causes stress to the plant which can cause it to produce MORE trichs ..
Flushing is another stupid noob paradigm. Give me some real proof of any "MORE trichs". Trike production is relative to a healthy plant and genetics. Stress is not a good thing if it affects carbo production via the process of photosynthesis. A yellow leaf is a non-productive leaf.....period.

3.) FULL POTENTIAL??!! A plant reaching it's full potential involves A LOT more than a specific Pot size .. Even plants grown in ground under full sun light do not always reach their full potential .. lol .. I have seen SMALL plants that are UNHEALTHY in LARGE pots, and have also seen plants in small pots that are BIG, HEALTHY and HAPPY .. any experienced grower will tell you that .. and if you have eyes you can clearly see that example just by searching the forums, doing grows and talking to other growers .. Environment plays the BIGGEST part in "FULL POTENTIAL" .. you as a grower should know that much ..

So STOP TROLLING!!! ;)
Go tell your friend that if he wants to use small pots then he should use a complete food like Dyna-Gro and or something like Rootmaker pots. This might help. http://riddlem3.com/index.php/topic,3838.msg70114.html#new

UB
 

StlSoldier531

Active Member
Don't fall for the bullshit. Yellowing leaves is a grower problem usually brought on by low N bloom foods.
I agree .. lol .. But those plants were a roughly a month away from being harvested .. if those 12 yellowing leaves were green instead of yellow .. I don't think the yield would have been much different

Flushing is another stupid noob paradigm. Give me some real proof of any "MORE trichs". Trike production is relative to a healthy plant and genetics. Stress is not a good thing if it affects carbo production via the process of photosynthesis. A yellow leaf is a non-productive leaf.....period.
Again I agree .. a yellowing leaf is not productive .. but again those are OLD plants .. NOT young seedlings in the vegetative stage .. leaves at that age and that close to harvest do not have as much use anymore .. the end yield would have been the same even if they were all green .. maybe he could have gotten a couple of grams more .. lol .. but when we are talking about a 1 pound plant .. a few grams doesn't make a difference

Go tell your friend that if he wants to use small pots then he should use a complete food like Dyna-Gro and or something like Rootmaker pots. This might help.
Agreed!! Root pruning pots are extremely effective ...

And I will have to check out that Dyna-gro and see how good it is .. I personally have never used the stuff .. but .. I like to try NEW things ;)

The point I am making is .. Smaller pots have the advantage of using less medium which is the reason some like to use them instead of larger pots .. and in case you haven't checked recently .. Soil is very very expensive these days .. lol ..
BIG plant + Less soil = Better
Same size plant + larger pot + more money spent = BAD
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
You need to learn some basic botany. Yield is directly affected by the quality of the root system and foliage. THC content and cannabanoid profile is dependent on getting a plant to a certain stage of development, late. If you aint got a bunch of healthy green leaves close to or at harvest, it aint gonna happen. You'll end up with ditch weed quality.

Big Bud and other "cannabis specific" bloom crap aint gonna do it either. In fact, such foods actually work against the grower, but don't tell anybody.

I don't buy commercial potting soil so I wouldn't know how much it costs...... not that cost is an issue. If you can't afford another 3 bucks to fill up a 5 or 7 gallon pot rather than a 3........

Don't get me wrong, those are beautiful plants and who doesn't like eye candy but they are far from harvest. Rather than using a cherry picked photo I'd like to see what they looked like at harvest. The guy made a poor call regarding his choice of pot size.

UB
 

StlSoldier531

Active Member
You need to learn some basic botany. Yield is directly affected by the quality of the root system and foliage. THC content and cannabanoid profile is dependent on getting a plant to a certain stage of development, late. If you aint got a bunch of healthy green leaves close to or at harvest, it aint gonna happen. You'll end up with ditch weed quality.
UB
I thought THC content was dependent on genetics ... I mean YES .. Health of the plant is a factor .. but if that was the only factor then why are growers constantly looking for a "potent" strain to grow .. lol .. why not just grow any strain??
 

Phaeton

Active Member
I am not arguing a case here, this is just what happened with my strain in my climate.

I have grown 17 oz plants in 3 gallons of rockwool. I did this a few times and then started bringing the plant size down. Quality changed, plant health changed, things grew different.
I played with it, been growing since 1998 and have lots of room, kids are gone. Anyway, I tried lots and lots of combo's and a few things stayed the same.

Sativa, the strain I grow, develops health annoyances when yield exceeds 3 oz per gallon of rockwool. Obviously the plants don't quit as I grew over 5 oz/gallon for awhile. But the plants are more stable and keep those green leaves right through cut time with that ratio.

I was so careful in the wording there because I aquired an indica that those numbers do not fit, still working them out.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
I thought THC content was dependent on genetics ... I mean YES .. Health of the plant is a factor .. but if that was the only factor then why are growers constantly looking for a "potent" strain to grow .. lol .. why not just grow any strain??
Since when is a "strain" any better regarding culture or potency than bagweed? You keep falling for the profit and romance-the-weed motivated hype.......
 

cannawizard

Well-Known Member
*bagseed = random phenos from unknown genos (buying expensive commercialized "strains" doesnt ensure squat; its a gamble either way)
 
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