Samsung F Series LED Strip Build for a 3x3' (links for ALL parts inc.)

nfhiggs

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
skoomd said:
Awe yeah!

Nice to see you figured out how to get the 22" heatsink/channel to work out!

I might add a brace or two across the frame, depending on how sturdy the strips are.It'll give you something to mount your driver on as well. Frankly though, I just hotglued my driver to the back of the heatsinks because I couldnt really drill it into them.

What driver are you gonna power those with?
Click to expand...
The sinks are glued to the angles with RTV. Probably not sturdy enough to support the power supply - that will go on a shelf in the top of the cabinet, like all my others.

If they come loose from their own weight I'll just pick up some JB weld.

They will be powered with a Meanwell LRS-150-24 CV power supply at a little under 150W. Gotta give it a little room because the power supply crowbars hard when it hits the current limit, instead of just racheting the voltage back like most.
 
skoomd

skoomd

Well-Known Member
nfhiggs said:
The sinks are glued to the angles with RTV. Probably not sturdy enough to support the power supply - that will go on a shelf in the top of the cabinet, like all my others.

If they come loose from their own weight I'll just pick up some JB weld.

They will be powered with a Meanwell LRS-150-24 CV power supply at a little under 150W. Gotta give it a little room because the power supply crowbars hard when it hits the current limit, instead of just racking the voltage back like most.
Click to expand...
Ah good point. Yeah, the silicone probably won't hold up a driver. And you wouldn't want to use that particular driver inside the grow anyways, so good on having it outside of the space.

The silicone should be plenty to hold up the strips, though only time will tell.
 
nfhiggs

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
skoomd said:
Ah good point. Yeah, the silicone probably won't hold up a driver. And you wouldn't want to use that particular driver inside the grow anyways, so good on having it outside of the space.

The silicone should be plenty to hold up the strips, though only time will tell.
Click to expand...
I used it with my other strip light as well, but gravity is not working against that one. We'll see how it goes.
 
jarvild

jarvild

Well-Known Member
nfhiggs said:
The sinks are glued to the angles with RTV. Probably not sturdy enough to support the power supply - that will go on a shelf in the top of the cabinet, like all my others.

If they come loose from their own weight I'll just pick up some JB weld.

They will be powered with a Meanwell LRS-150-24 CV power supply at a little under 150W. Gotta give it a little room because the power supply crowbars hard when it hits the current limit, instead of just racheting the voltage back like most.
Click to expand...
That first build of mine is all pop riveted together including the strips to the channel. Not a single screw
One of the reasons I went with the 24" heatsinks was to be able to turn the angle flat on the bottoms to support the bars themself, that way I can drop in extra bars of strips or single diode strips of supplemental chips in a modular frame. Molex plugs on the ends and I have a custom unit I can use to experiment with.
 
skoomd

skoomd

Well-Known Member
jarvild said:
One of the reasons I went with the 24" heatsinks was to be able to turn the angle flat on the bottoms to support the bars themself, that way I can drop in extra bars of strips or single diode strips of supplemental chips in a modular frame.
Click to expand...
Yeah that's how mine is set up. I can just drop on a strip+heatsink onto it and the L frame supports the weight. Obviously would want to secure it on there too though so it doesn't slide around haha

Do you need a special tool to drive in rivets?
 
jarvild

jarvild

Well-Known Member
skoomd said:
Yeah that's how mine is set up. I can just drop on a strip+heatsink onto it and the L frame supports the weight. Obviously would want to secure it on there too though so it doesn't slide around haha

Do you need a special tool to drive in rivets?
Click to expand...
Yes. a rivet tool available at any hardware store.
You just have holes drilled in the side of the angle and use pins through the holes to lock into the fins of the heatsinks.
 
nfhiggs

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
jarvild said:
That first build of mine is all pop riveted together including the strips to the channel. Not a single screw
One of the reasons I went with the 24" heatsinks was to be able to turn the angle flat on the bottoms to support the bars themself, that way I can drop in extra bars of strips or single diode strips of supplemental chips in a modular frame. Molex plugs on the ends and I have a custom unit I can use to experiment with.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I meant to do that, but had a brain freeze when I ordered the heat sinks and put in 22 inches instead of 24.
 
jarvild

jarvild

Well-Known Member
nfhiggs said:
Yeah, I meant to do that, but had a brain freeze when I ordered the heat sinks and put in 22 inches instead of 24.
Click to expand...
So you have some hanging off the
ANC said:
Rivet guns are cheap. Every man should own one.

I'm anal, so I like drilling and tapping...
Click to expand...
Not much meat in a 1/16" thick piece of Aluminum to hold any threads. The units running heatsinks are all tapped and screwed though.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ANC
ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
IMG_20180418_134038[1].jpg
Nice, I still have to start sawing up my frames for my next light.
Some speed weed grown in the light on the side of my Samsungs.
Cutting was rooted for two weeks and in the tube for 2 weeks so far.
The flower is about the size of my thumb.
 
L

lawlzcake9000

Member
What is the difference between your model samsung strips vs the model led gardener has for his 3x3 build? LED has
1510-2221-ND and you have 1510-2217-ND.. Thanks.
 
skoomd

skoomd

Well-Known Member
lawlzcake9000 said:
What is the difference between your model samsung strips vs the model led gardener has for his 3x3 build? LED has
1510-2221-ND and you have 1510-2217-ND.. Thanks.
Click to expand...
I used the exact same strips from the second 3x3 build LEDgardener has, not sure why the numbers are any different. The only thing I did different really is use a mix of 3000k and 3500k whereas LEDgardener has only 3000k for those builds.
 
L

lawlzcake9000

Member
skoomd said:
I used the exact same strips from the second 3x3 build LEDgardener has, not sure why the numbers are any different. The only thing I did different really is use a mix of 3000k and 3500k whereas LEDgardener has only 3000k for those builds.
Click to expand...
Ah I see the difference now.. Its the forward voltage and flux.. What does this mean? One is higher than the other? Is higher better?
 
Last edited:
skoomd

skoomd

Well-Known Member
lawlzcake9000 said:
Ah I see the difference now.. Its the forward voltage and flux.. What does this mean? One is higher than the other? Is higher better?
Click to expand...
Well he has a 3x3 build that uses the double row strips, and one using the single row strips. Im using the single row strips. The double row strips have twice the forward voltage because they're twice the power (so therefore twice the flux as well). So if you went with the double row strips, you'd only need 5 strips instead of 10, and you'd use the HLG-320H-48 driver instead of the HLG-320H-24 driver.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top