Samsung F562B Linear Strip Build

Takeshy

Takeshy

Well-Known Member
Stone_Free

Stone_Free

Well-Known Member
I won't advise you on the driver choice cos last time I did that to someone I made a mistake lol
Have a look in my sig - the PAR/PPF/DLI calculator might be of some use for your design!
Use beam angle of 120 for the LM561's

Hope this helps!
:peace:
 
freemanjack

freemanjack

Well-Known Member
Takeshy said:
LED
48 x LM561C F Series F562B Linear Strip 3000K 80CRI (SI-B8V261560WW)
https://www.digikey.pt/products/en?keywords=SI-B8V261560WW

Driver
4 x Mean Well HLG-185H-C700B
http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mean-Well/HLG-185H-C700B/

Is this driver choice correct for that amount of strips?
I want to drive them in series with each diode running at 77.78mA. Each strip has 72 diodes in a total of 3456 diodes.

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
No, that driver looks to be a 10vdc output, you need a minimum forward voltage of 23vdc and 48 in series would need 1104vdc!!!!! I think you might need to start from electrical theory basics. If you want to drive 48 strips, work out the total wattage - Amps (1.12A) x Volts (23VDC) = (1236w) then find you cheapest driver selection to supply your wattage (probably 4 x 300W) then select the voltage range of that driver to most closely match a multiple of your strips (48 / 4 = 12 / 4 = 3 x 23v = 69vdc) so a 300w 70vdc rated driver would drive one string of 12 strips made up of 4 parallel sets of 3 in series. Personally, I would opt for a 23vdc driver and run the lot in parallel.
 
Takeshy

Takeshy

Well-Known Member
freemanjack said:
No, that driver looks to be a 10vdc output, you need a minimum forward voltage of 23vdc and 48 in series would need 1104vdc!!!!! I think you might need to start from electrical theory basics. If you want to drive 48 strips, work out the total wattage - Amps (1.12A) x Volts (23VDC) = (1236w) then find you cheapest driver selection to supply your wattage (probably 4 x 300W) then select the voltage range of that driver to most closely match a multiple of your strips (48 / 4 = 12 / 4 = 3 x 23v = 69vdc) so a 300w 70vdc rated driver would drive one string of 12 strips made up of 4 parallel sets of 3 in series. Personally, I would opt for a 23vdc driver and run the lot in parallel.
Click to expand...
The driver has a maximum output of 286V.
http://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=hlg-185h-C

And...
Amps (0.7A) x Volts (23VDC) = 16.1W x 48 Strips = 772.8W
 
freemanjack

freemanjack

Well-Known Member
Takeshy said:
The driver has a maximum output of 286V.
http://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=hlg-185h-C

And...
Amps (0.7A) x Volts (23VDC) = 16.1W x 48 Strips = 772.8W
Click to expand...
My mistake, I was reading from the spec list on mouser; **Output Voltage-Channel 1: 1 VDC to 10 VDC obviously mislabeled dimmer circuit the output voltage is only in the description at the top instead of listed in the spec. So each of those drivers could handle 12 strips in series @ 700mA. And my mistake (again!) I was reading from the difikey rated drive current @1.12A
 
nc208

nc208

Well-Known Member
You'd be much better off finding strips you can buy. The strips you linked have 0 in stock and shows no info about getting more.
 
canadian1969

canadian1969

Well-Known Member
Seriously the EB strips seem to be the ones to beat, I am very happy with mine. Everyone has their panties in a bunch over these F series, but I get 159 lm/w at half the price. What diff does a 10 lm/watt sacrifice make if for flexibility and availability, plus the driver selection and wiring is stupid simple. Go with the 1400B driver as you can dim it to 700mA (50%) for peak performance, but still have upward headroom.
1x HLG-185H-C1400B will power 6 of these and is dimmable from 20-200watts per driver.
https://www.digikey.pt/product-detail/en/bridgelux/BXEB-L0560Z-35E2000-C-A3/976-1498-ND/6236284
You are better off with the 3500K for combined veg/flower, maybe 4000K fro scrogs.
These are also 80 CRI, so you arent sacrificing anything there.
When I bought my mean well drivers there was basically no price difference between the 700/1050 mA and the 1400mA so going to the max made sense, just dim them with a 100K potentiometer to whatever drive current you like.
 
Stone_Free

Stone_Free

Well-Known Member
canadian1969 said:
but I get 159 lm/w at half the price
Click to expand...
It isn't all about lm/W though. You might get 159lm/W at half the price but you'll get less than half the luminous flux. Efficiency doesn't grow weed. It's about the total output first then efficiency comes after that.
Not saying EB's aren't great - they are - but for me the FB24B's are unbeatable. 2 in my space at 8 inches above the ScrOG'd canopy is perfect. I'd need 5 of the EB's to achieve more or less the same thing. If you do a comparison between Wattage used to achieve the same thing the EB's lose by quite a bit and the efficacy is miles below the F24B's.

When looking at efficiency you need to look at the grow as a whole not just the lighting.
Again, not dissing the EB's at all. It's just that a proper comparison easily shows the Samsungs are better. That's why they cost more.
:peace:
 
K

key4

Well-Known Member
Stone_Free said:
It isn't all about lm/W though. You might get 159lm/W at half the price but you'll get less than half the luminous flux. Efficiency doesn't grow weed. It's about the total output first then efficiency comes after that.
Not saying EB's aren't great - they are - but for me the FB24B's are unbeatable. 2 in my space at 8 inches above the ScrOG'd canopy is perfect. I'd need 5 of the EB's to achieve more or less the same thing. If you do a comparison between Wattage used to achieve the same thing the EB's lose by quite a bit and the efficacy is miles below the F24B's.

When looking at efficiency you need to look at the grow as a whole not just the lighting.
Again, not dissing the EB's at all. It's just that a proper comparison easily shows the Samsungs are better. That's why they cost more.
:peace:
Click to expand...
What numbers are you comparing here mate?

umol/£? PPFD maps?

You have to give your numbers to back up what you are saying or you're just guessing/missinforming.

:)
 
tomate

tomate

Well-Known Member
BXEB-L0560Z-30E2000-C-A3
2410 lm - 22.1 V - 7.41$ @ 156 lm/W @ 325 lm/$

SI-B8V261560WW
4335 lm - 23 V - 14.48$ @ 168 lm/W @ 299 lm/$

7.7% higher efficiency at 8% less lm/$ for the 2' single row F-Series compared to the EB series equivalent.
But the typical flux Bridgelux is providing was calculated at TC = 25°C whereas samsung it's data has been calculated at TC = 65°C which is something that has to be taken into account.

I guess the 2nd gen EB Series will be on par with the F-Series Gen3 and where only the availability will matter.
 
K

key4

Well-Known Member
tomate said:
BXEB-L0560Z-30E2000-C-A3
2410 lm - 22.1 V - 7.41$ @ 156 lm/W @ 325 lm/$

SI-B8V261560WW
4335 lm - 23 V - 14.48$ @ 168 lm/W @ 299 lm/$

7.7% higher efficiency at 8% less lm/$ for the 2' single row F-Series compared to the EB series equivalent.
But the typical flux Bridgelux is providing was calculated at TC = 25°C whereas samsung it's data has been calculated at TC = 65°C which is something that has to be taken into account.

I guess the 2nd gen EB Series will be on par with the F-Series Gen3 and where only the availability will matter.
Click to expand...
So thats great for us humans but what about the plants?
 
Stone_Free

Stone_Free

Well-Known Member
key4 said:
What numbers are you comparing here mate?

umol/£? PPFD maps?

You have to give your numbers to back up what you are saying or you're just guessing/missinforming.

:)
Click to expand...
It was more statements based upon the PDF datasheets and the fact that efficacy doesn't grow plants mate. If you compare the strips running at max power you can see which is best. When someone tells people to turn down their lights to increase efficiency it is totally missing the point. Lower light levels mean less PPF/D - as you know better than I do mate - which means lower quantity or quality of weed.
Here is some figures. Look at the lumens of 36,000 (2 x FB24B's) in the attachment. To achieve this with the EB's you'd need about 4.25 strips running at max power of around 260W and that would give an efficacy of 134lm/W. The FB24B's achieve this with 2 strips running at 205W and 168lm/W

I'm in a bit of a rush to go out so can't do much more atm :)
 

Attachments

tomate

tomate

Well-Known Member
key4 said:
So thats great for us humans but what about the plants?
Click to expand...
EB Series Gen2 3000K
QER=4.84 µmol/J
LER=331.66 lm/W
= 2.55 µmol/J

EB Series Gen1 3000K
QER=4.87 µmol/J
LER=324.99 lm/W
= 2.34 µmol/J

15.5W * 2.34 µmol/J / 7.41$ = 4.89 µmol/$

F-Series Gen3 3000K
QER=4.86 µmol/J
LER=321.60 lm/W
= 2.54 µmol/J

25.8W * 2.54 µmol/J / 14.48$ = 4.53 µmol/$
 
Last edited:
K

key4

Well-Known Member
tomate said:
EB Series 3000K
QER=4.84 µmol/J
LER=331.66 lm/W
= 2.28 µmol/J

15.5W * 2.28 µmol/J / 7.41$ = 4.77 µmol/$

F-Series Gen3 3000K
QER=4.86 µmol/J
LER=321.60 lm/W
= 2.54 µmol/J

25.8W * 2.54 µmol/J / 14.48$ = 4.53 µmol/$
Click to expand...
Perfect. There is a difference, so going by that the samsungs are a little cheaper assuming driver costs and heatsink costs are the same.

But... 5 strips vs 2 strips. Whats the ppfd across the canopy looking like would be my next question?

Price point for the eb gen2s will be interesting.
 
Serva

Serva

Well-Known Member
Stone_Free said:
It isn't all about lm/W though. You might get 159lm/W at half the price but you'll get less than half the luminous flux. Efficiency doesn't grow weed. It's about the total output first then efficiency comes after that.
Not saying EB's aren't great - they are - but for me the FB24B's are unbeatable. 2 in my space at 8 inches above the ScrOG'd canopy is perfect. I'd need 5 of the EB's to achieve more or less the same thing. If you do a comparison between Wattage used to achieve the same thing the EB's lose by quite a bit and the efficacy is miles below the F24B's.

When looking at efficiency you need to look at the grow as a whole not just the lighting.
Again, not dissing the EB's at all. It's just that a proper comparison easily shows the Samsungs are better. That's why they cost more.
:peace:
Click to expand...
I am prefering 5 eb strips, instead of 2 f strips, because you get a better uniformity and because the light is more diffuse (less shadows) also more penetration. I would like to see bridgelux constructing strips with the smaller SMD‘s 2835 0.2W 3V (~170lm/w), so I can get more strips :)

And if money wouldn‘t matter, the h-series would get my interes!
 
Stone_Free

Stone_Free

Well-Known Member
Serva said:
because you get a better uniformity and because the light is more diffuse
Click to expand...
My space is 2ft wide. One F series per foot of width is perfect. With a beam angle of 120 degrees I can get each strip quite close and coverage/penetration is great in a ScrOG set-up. 5 EB's would use more power to achieve the same PPF and the light from each strip would overlap.
This would mean extra heat I'd have to extract - it works out about 25% more power. Also all that extra plastic is bad for the environment.
I don't think the H series is any better than the F for our requirements.

In the end maybe it is "horses for courses" but I prefer to use less of everything where possible. Have a look at the tool in my sig and use it to work out the design with both, just for comparison.
Your grow so your rules but for me 2 is better than 5 :)

At least our hobby allows us to do things differently to achieve the same thing which is nice :)
:peace:
 
D

Dave455

Well-Known Member
Stone_Free said:
My space is 2ft wide. One F series per foot of width is perfect. With a beam angle of 120 degrees I can get each strip quite close and coverage/penetration is great in a ScrOG set-up. 5 EB's would use more power to achieve the same PPF and the light from each strip would overlap.
This would mean extra heat I'd have to extract - it works out about 25% more power. Also all that extra plastic is bad for the environment.
I don't think the H series is any better than the F for our requirements.

In the end maybe it is "horses for courses" but I prefer to use less of everything where possible. Have a look at the tool in my sig and use it to work out the design with both, just for comparison.
Your grow so your rules but for me 2 is better than 5 :)

At least our hobby allows us to do things differently to achieve the same thing which is nice :)
:peace:
Click to expand...
Have you ever done a par test to see numbers at canopy for f double strip light ?
What canopy height ?
 
Serva

Serva

Well-Known Member
My space is nearlly 2x3x3 ft, and I was running 2x 75w fl tubes in veg, now I got 12x 1‘ eb strips at overall 50w. 1/3 of energy cost, just because the light is EVERYWHERE now. From practical experience, for me it is the other way around, than you point out. As more lightsources I have, as less power I need, because the light is delivered to the plants more evenly. When I have more strips, and more overlapping, the light is more efficiently delivered to the plants. Atleast thats my points of view. Like you said, it‘s good what is working for you. Just a little theroetical discussion.

Perfect scenario in my mind would be an completly illuminated box/tent/room. Like outdoor, you have one main direction, but because of all the diffusion and reflexion, it‘s bright all around.
 
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