simple way to convert a ebb table to a DTW table

Discussion in 'Drain-To-Waste Hydro' started by hellraizer30, Mar 22, 2013.

  1.  
    hellraizer30

    hellraizer30 Rebel From The North

    here we have a basic flood table drilled and plumbed for ebb & flow.
    IMG_1500-small.jpg
    And the res under the table.
    IMG_1501-small.jpg
    now pull out the 3/4 drain fitting and slide a peace of
    1/2 hose through it.
    IMG_1502-small.jpg
    should end up looking like this.
    IMG_1503-small.jpg
    then go ahead and re attach it to the table
    IMG_1504-small.jpg
    and what it should look like from under the table.
    IMG_1505-small.jpg
    then go ahead a install a 1/2 90
    IMG_1506-small.jpg
    then add a 1/2 on/off valve
    IMG_1507-small.jpg
    now its time to lay out the 1/2 supply hose.
    you can do this anyway you feel best suits
    your table.
    IMG_1510-small.jpg
    IMG_1508-small.jpg
    then you will need to cap off the ends.
    IMG_1509-small.jpg
    from here its time to start running 1/4 dripper lines, before
    you do setup how and where you want to punch the hole. sucks
    to plug holes :) if you end up with some longer lines then others
    then you can put a 1/4 valve to slow flow on the shorter ones
    to even out flow.
    IMG_1524-small.jpg
    IMG_1526-small.jpg
    now the dripper end you can use drip emitters or drip stakes
    but i like this method of a 1/4 tee helps spread out the water
    for a better soak.
    IMG_1525-small.jpg
    smart pots and coco = nice root growth :)
    IMG_1529-small.jpg
    the 1/2 flood side fitting is now the 1/2 drain side
    and can be plumbed however you like.
    IMG_1532-small.jpg
    i just run mine to a 5 gal bucket, yah you got to watch
    it so it dont flood! but its better to drain it more often
    and give you a chance to test run off.
    IMG_1533-small.jpg
    I setup by res like this you can however you like.
    IMG_1513-small.jpg
    IMG_1512-small.jpg
    IMG_1511-small.jpg

    and now its time to get the table going
    IMG_1530-small.jpg IMG_1531-small.jpg
     
    Feisty1UR, supdro, Tim Fox and 5 others like this.
  2.  
    Moebius

    Moebius Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the right-up Hellraizer.
     
  3.  
    hellraizer30

    hellraizer30 Rebel From The North

    No problem moebius hope to do a few more here real soon
     
  4.  
    PurpleBuz

    PurpleBuz Well-Known Member

    great tutorial but why do you want a DTW ? Seems like a waste of nutes.
     
  5.  
    hellraizer30

    hellraizer30 Rebel From The North

    Its not anymore wastefull than running recycle, when you do a weekly res dump on a recycle theres leftovers
    that you get rid of! Well that amount is about equal to the run off in drain to waste. And in this system you can
    add about anything you want without fear of bactiria outbreaks in your res! Plants feed on one level of nutes
    and ph is solid as it come with very little if any drift! And by using coco the medium has the ability to drain out
    faster = more feed times and a much faster growth!
     
  6.  
    PurpleBuz

    PurpleBuz Well-Known Member

    Mostly valid points except if I ran dtw I would end up throwing away a lot more nutes than in my recirc. I grow in coco chips\stones and water several times a day during light period. For 4-6 plants under a 4 foot bed, I would throw away about 5 gallons everytime I turn on the water.
     
  7.  
    hellraizer30

    hellraizer30 Rebel From The North

    Hard to picture that you could not dail back the flow to lessen the run off! For every 25gal of water i mix weekly i get
    5gals of run off and thats 3 feeds during lights on for 1 min. And that feeds 18 girls, here soon im going to 4feeds starting
    on week 3
     
  8.  
    PurpleBuz

    PurpleBuz Well-Known Member

    But I want a lot of hydro flow. Rather than providing a strong nute solution, I provide a weaker solution and refresh it with volume to ensure that no localized nute imbalances occur. I guess its just different in how we feed.
     
    horribleherk likes this.
  9.  
    thecoolman

    thecoolman New Member

    I keep Wayne auto sump pumps in my drain reservoirs when they hit about 8 inches it pumps it to the yard.
    20 percent or so runoff keeps nutrient levels from building up.
     
  10.  
    Lucius Vorenus

    Lucius Vorenus Well-Known Member

    How would you recommend it if you had to do this to 4 4x8 tables and wanted to use just 1 res for feeding?
     
  11.  
    hellraizer30

    hellraizer30 Rebel From The North

    First i would get with a water company and get a 200 gal tank and plumb each table to it...
    start off filling it 50gals and see how long it lasts and dial your feeding in, once you ready
    fill it up so it will last 1week and your set!

    You could go on vacation for as long as your water reserve last :)
     
  12.  
    hellraizer30

    hellraizer30 Rebel From The North

    Looking a bit more into it i would say a 650gph pump would do it! As long as your not lifting water more than 3ft.
    run it 3/4 lines with 1/4 drip lines. You will need 1/2 in and 1/4 in inline valves to controll flow. Something that large
    will take time to dial in.
     
  13.  
    Lucius Vorenus

    Lucius Vorenus Well-Known Member

    I agree. Where would you put valves? I was thinking just soft hose running down the middle of the tables and 1/4 hose punched into the sides of the hose and into the stakes in each pot. We run approx 40 plants per 4x8 table.
     
  14.  
    hellraizer30

    hellraizer30 Rebel From The North

    The 1/4 valves i would put at the start of where the 1/4 leaves the 3/4 soft hose. And the 3/4 valve i would put as close to the res
    as you could
     
  15.  
    Lucius Vorenus

    Lucius Vorenus Well-Known Member

    So if you had 48 plants in a 4x8 flood you would have 48 1/4 valves? Maybe im confused by what you mean by valves. Got a pic?
     
  16.  
    hellraizer30

    hellraizer30 Rebel From The North

    The 12th pic shows the vavle im talking about, you dont need 48 of them! You only use them on the short lines
    so you can compansate for the long lines being slower feeding.

    pic 8 show the 1/2 in valve that controls the overall flow/pressure to the feed lines
     
  17.  
    Daggy

    Daggy Well-Known Member

    I have a simular setup on 4x8 trays tilted at an angle by bricks and supported by play wood and 2x4
     
  18.  
    since1991

    since1991 Well-Known Member

    How do you make runoff tables with the lowest possible clearance?For us 6.5 foot Michigan basement setups? Them bulkheads take up valuble real estate. Plus the table on bricks. Shopvac? Corrugated roofing plastic to rain gutter to sump? Blocks in runoff saucers with shopvac? Been trying different things for awhile
     
  19.  
    PicklesRus

    PicklesRus Well-Known Member

    Is the res waste good for your back yard?
     
  20.  
    Jumfrey13

    Jumfrey13 Active Member

    I
    Would say build a frame of 2x4's on caster wheels. On one side, use 6" in wheels, the other, use 4". You may be able to get away with using 2x3's which will be cheaper and much lighter. Problem with this design is that you can't put your reservoir or drain bucket under the tables and thus, what you save in verticle space, you will lose in lateral space. I was about to try the wood frame method as I described, but I realized it seemed lime a hassle when I was putting one together. I have yet to get my tables but I am thinking of just putting them on cinder blocks so I can fit a small reservoir underneath, but if you don't have the verticle space, I could see why the wood frame method would have to do.
     
    since1991 likes this.

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