Soilless Media - Flushing Before Use?

Dr.Nick Riviera

Well-Known Member
It just isn't working for me. The soil is testing at 6.8 ph. My newest sprouts developing pale centers within 4 -5 days of growth. I'm fine flushing the slow release lime and replacing with calcium nitrate based cal mags or even CaliMagic, which is a blend of calcium carbonate and calcium nitrate. Maybe it was just a bad batch, or this general purpose mix that is stocked through the box stores.

I'm going with the following advice -



Light Warrior it is.



My town water comes from a lake, and is treated with Soda Ash. It raises the PH so when it goes through our distribution system, it is less corrosive and leaches less heavy metals. I get 8.5 to 9.0 out of the tap, and RO is actually more efficient at a higher ph, but will not change the ph unless the ph level is caused by an alkaline dissolved solid. My RO water comes out at the same PH, too high. If I PH the RO water and check it in a day or two, it is still spot on, so no risk of drift or anything like that.

I thought RO would be close to neutral and was very puzzled by it, until I did the research.



That's interesting, you use hydroton instead of added perlite? How much do you add? How much earthwork castings do you add, and what brand?
growstones are recycled glass that looks like perlite https://www.sunlightsupply.com/shop/bycategory/growing-media/growstone-gs-2-mix-this-soil-aerator.
and i use these EWC http://www.fertilizeronline.com/wormcast.php

the growstones don't float to top like perlite and the EWC are some of the best you can buy.
1=bale pro-mix, 1=40lb ewc,1=bag stones,mix well
 

Underground Scientist

Well-Known Member
"Hello,

Thanks for your interest in Pro-Mix products.

All Pro-Mix soilless mixes contain nutrients for initial plant growth, this starter charge normally feeds plants for 1 or 2 weeks of growth. The Pro-Mix Premium potting mix also has a slow release fertilizer incorporated and this can continue to release nutrients throughout the crop. That’s why your are seeing a charge in your leachate." - Premier Horticulture
 

Dr.Nick Riviera

Well-Known Member
"Hello,

Thanks for your interest in Pro-Mix products.

All Pro-Mix soilless mixes contain nutrients for initial plant growth, this starter charge normally feeds plants for 1 or 2 weeks of growth. The Pro-Mix Premium potting mix also has a slow release fertilizer incorporated and this can continue to release nutrients throughout the crop. That’s why your are seeing a charge in your leachate." - Premier Horticulture
are you using the premium potting mix? Do they consider the myco in BX as a nutrient charge?

http://www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-bx-mycorrhizae/
 

Underground Scientist

Well-Known Member
are you using the premium potting mix? Do they consider the myco in BX as a nutrient charge?

http://www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-bx-mycorrhizae/
I think I confused some by saying premium mix...not sure why I had premium stuck in my head. It is the Pro Mix All Purpose Mix, stocked by Lowes and Home Depot. I didn't really even see it on Premiere Horticulture's main site. It could be box store exclusive. I did not see anywhere on the package where it said it had fertilizer in it, so I thought I was good. It does not have the micorhizzae in it like BX or HP, and I didn't care because I have innoculants of my own. The price point of 14 bucks vs 38 bucks for BX was the driving force. They both have the same ingredient list except for the micorhizzae. It appears they hid some fertilizer in it, but I see no granular particles. Weird.
 

Underground Scientist

Well-Known Member
Prepared two Light Warrior mixes with perlite and vermiculite. Flushed with 3X volume of container with 5.8 water, 6 ppm. Ended with runoff at 30 ppm and 5.8 ph. Re Agitated by hand and returned to cups, then added a solution of 2 ml Clonex Nutrient Solution, 1 ml of CaliMagic, and 1 ml of Voodoo Juice bacteria, and 1 ml of Pirhana Micorrhizae to 1 gallon (scaled down to 1 quart size) ending in a ppm of 156. Allowed to drain. Placed a 1 inch hole and put 1 drop of Clonex Rooting Hormone, and backfield to 1\4 or 1\2 inch deep and inserted seed, backfilled. Then they went in the small humidity dome, under the T-5. We will see how they compare to the initially unwashed peat mix.
 

growingforfun

Well-Known Member
Prepared two Light Warrior mixes with perlite and vermiculite. Flushed with 3X volume of container with 5.8 water, 6 ppm. Ended with runoff at 30 ppm and 5.8 ph. Re Agitated by hand and returned to cups, then added a solution of 2 ml Clonex Nutrient Solution, 1 ml of CaliMagic, and 1 ml of Voodoo Juice bacteria, and 1 ml of Pirhana Micorrhizae to 1 gallon (scaled down to 1 quart size) ending in a ppm of 156. Allowed to drain. Placed a 1 inch hole and put 1 drop of Clonex Rooting Hormone, and backfield to 1\4 or 1\2 inch deep and inserted seed, backfilled. Then they went in the small humidity dome, under the T-5. We will see how they compare to the initially unwashed peat mix.
Your still trying way too hard. You shouldnt need to do all that stuff, its already ready to use.

I know you want "better" but i dont think thats how you get there... ive used happy frog a lot in the past as it is, turns out very fast growth, immediately.

Maybe just try a "control" plant and use it as it out of the bag and see if it doesnt do better when you dont check ppms of run off, and ph, and all that. I just mix my nutes and dump em into the dirt... it aint hydro. Its very simple... working really well too with my beer can colas...
 

Underground Scientist

Well-Known Member
Your still trying way too hard. You shouldnt need to do all that stuff, its already ready to use.
I'm thinking it might be better with a really good soil. All ears to your blend, and my biggest concern with true soil is bugs...How is that for you?

If I wasn't soilless, I wouldn't want the soil so clean.

Beer can buds huh, what's the flower light, grow height/style.
 

growingforfun

Well-Known Member
My current style is pretty small compared to my old way, i can go over both if ya like.

Right now im using fertilome red bag. Its a light airy soil comes loaded with perlite. I hate vermiculite in my mixes for what its worth... just dont like the look an feel. Anyways. This soil is basically a seed starter, it works great. I gave my first nutes about a week or 2 after sprout, just a tiny bit, so more than nothing, but not a real dose of nutes. I then go back to tap water next time and then a little more nute next time and so on. I dont rely on the lable as much more than a do not exceed limit.

Ive found its best for me to use simple nutes. I really like GH micro for veg, but i do change periodically to my General organics lineup, or other brands. Ive got around 4 nutrient lines i switch between. Ive found they all preform well for me. I also use the supernatural brand a lot, and thats what this round used.

1 tsp supernatural 1 part flower/gal around 1 time feed per week, water as needed other times.

My fav thing to mix into the dirt is hydroton/expanded clay pebbles. If the goal is to add air to the dirt these do it hest imo. Vermiculite holds water. Perlite floats and is so small it doesnt do the job as well as the clay imo. The hydroton must be rinsed well before use. If you use it. Its not needed tho. Meh. A layer at the bottom is good if you feel your pot needs to drain even better, but its best to only try adding one thing at a time to see if its worth it to you. Im not adding anything to the dirt right now.

Bugs arnt a issue, you should be using neem in rotation with kelp, dawn dish soap, and peppermint soap. Neem is very good for the plant and also kills bigs, so win win. Dont use neem on seeds or stressed plants generally. Dont use neem after flowers come on.

Using a single 1kw hps, 1/2 gallon pots and 3 gallon pots and 2 gallon pots. Trying to find a very scaled back style now, that works for me.

In the past i was doing 20 gallon pots and 8kw rooms.

Best way to high yield is scrog, but im doing perpetual now to pull a plant down every week or 2 and so im doing everything in a way that things are easy to move and stack. Plants are 27 inches floor to bud tip going for 2 zips a plant on 10 in rotation.

Its kinda a stealth grow, in the way im doing it, because it can all be put away easily in about 10 min. I couldnt figure out an easy way to scrog this style but when i do i may go over to that.


Fox farms soil is fine as is, or add perlite, or add hydroton. I like a ratio of 1/3 clay to ffof. Dont use nutes for nearly a month with the exeption of kelp, carbs, an maybe a microb but it does come preloaded. If you do a transplant into ffof right at flower flip dont add flower nutes for a few times. Then ease in.
 

Underground Scientist

Well-Known Member
Interest
My current style is pretty small compared to my old way, i can go over both if ya like.

Right now im using fertilome red bag. Its a light airy soil comes loaded with perlite. I hate vermiculite in my mixes for what its worth... just dont like the look an feel. Anyways. This soil is basically a seed starter, it works great. I gave my first nutes about a week or 2 after sprout, just a tiny bit, so more than nothing, but not a real dose of nutes. I then go back to tap water next time and then a little more nute next time and so on. I dont rely on the lable as much more than a do not exceed limit.

Ive found its best for me to use simple nutes. I really like GH micro for veg, but i do change periodically to my General organics lineup, or other brands. Ive got around 4 nutrient lines i switch between. Ive found they all preform well for me. I also use the supernatural brand a lot, and thats what this round used.

1 tsp supernatural 1 part flower/gal around 1 time feed per week, water as needed other times.

My fav thing to mix into the dirt is hydroton/expanded clay pebbles. If the goal is to add air to the dirt these do it hest imo. Vermiculite holds water. Perlite floats and is so small it doesnt do the job as well as the clay imo. The hydroton must be rinsed well before use. If you use it. Its not needed tho. Meh. A layer at the bottom is good if you feel your pot needs to drain even better, but its best to only try adding one thing at a time to see if its worth it to you. Im not adding anything to the dirt right now.

Bugs arnt a issue, you should be using neem in rotation with kelp, dawn dish soap, and peppermint soap. Neem is very good for the plant and also kills bigs, so win win. Dont use neem on seeds or stressed plants generally. Dont use neem after flowers come on.

Using a single 1kw hps, 1/2 gallon pots and 3 gallon pots and 2 gallon pots. Trying to find a very scaled back style now, that works for me.

In the past i was doing 20 gallon pots and 8kw rooms.

Best way to high yield is scrog, but im doing perpetual now to pull a plant down every week or 2 and so im doing everything in a way that things are easy to move and stack. Plants are 27 inches floor to bud tip going for 2 zips a plant on 10 in rotation.

Its kinda a stealth grow, in the way im doing it, because it can all be put away easily in about 10 min. I couldnt figure out an easy way to scrog this style but when i do i may go over to that.


Fox farms soil is fine as is, or add perlite, or add hydroton. I like a ratio of 1/3 clay to ffof. Dont use nutes for nearly a month with the exeption of kelp, carbs, an maybe a microb but it does come preloaded. If you do a transplant into ffof right at flower flip dont add flower nutes for a few times. Then ease in.
Interesting. I'm going for a 600 HPS in a 3x4'9"x6, dominator xxxl hood. My ballast is 1000, so I have that option. Perpetual, so two PVC framed scrog screens with 2x3 holes. Two plants go in a month. Screens 8" from top of 5 gallon, (trade gallon). 24" from light to screen, with 6-12" headroom left. Drainable trays for each screen, two plants per screen. Legally allowed 6 mature, so I can breed two clones in another space. Light running on a mover 6" distance.

I wondered about hydroton.
 

growingforfun

Well-Known Member
I like a bit more room than 8 inches, i think 12 or 16 inches to the screen. But i dont know if it could make a differance really. Your setup looks good tho.


I just feel bad for people when they make it harder than it has to be... ive had friends freak out over shit that doesnt matter an end up losing crops over an over because they actually create problems. Or become convinced there are invisible bugs that "you cant see, amd the plant wont show any signs in the bud but they are on the leaf" i look at the leaf an sure its maybe got some nutrient lockout or something but no bugs. Next thing i know he tosses over a month of work out.

I just always try to tell people chill out, take it easy, an let the plants grow em'selves.
 

growingforfun

Well-Known Member
It's dimmable, 600, 750, 1000. I don't know what purpose the 750 is. Hard to find a bulb that size, and hate to run a 1000 at 750, probably mess up the spectrum. 600w bulb, and 1000w bulb. My veg ballast can do 250, 400, and 600.
Im fairly sure your mistaken. Use a 1kw bulb or risk it blowing up.

Use a 600 watt ballast for the 600 watt bulb.
 
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