Spider mites 2 weeks before harvest.

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Faustin024

Well-Known Member
Got spider mites at the end of harvest, assuming since they are spinning webs that they have been there for at least a month but I can't find any on the microscope and they don't seem to be doing any real damage yet. I was curious to if anyone has used mighty wash(just picked up a bottle) and if I was able to put it on the buds. Was worried it would ruin my smell and maybe increase chances of bud rot. Lmk what everyone thinks would be greatly appreciated
 
cat of curiosity

cat of curiosity

Well-Known Member
i wouldn't risk spraying anything this late. at harvest, trim your branches and use a toothpick to manually remove webbing. hanging upside down, the mites will travel to the new ''top'' and die off as branches hang upside down. good luck!
 
F

Faustin024

Well-Known Member
cat of curiosity said:
i wouldn't risk spraying anything this late. at harvest, trim your branches and use a toothpick to manually remove webbing. hanging upside down, the mites will travel to the new ''top'' and die off as branches hang upside down. good luck!
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I'm kinda confused you mean during harvest right? That's what I was thinking too I didn't want to spray anything cause I'm starting to get really close but didn't want them messing up my buds. There really isn't any damage yet it's strange. I give it a dose of silica so maybe it's doing its job good. I might just pull a little early and say fuck it.
 
cat of curiosity

cat of curiosity

Well-Known Member
Faustin024 said:
I'm kinda confused you mean during harvest right? That's what I was thinking too I didn't want to spray anything cause I'm starting to get really close but didn't want them messing up my buds. There really isn't any damage yet it's strange. I give it a dose of silica so maybe it's doing its job good. I might just pull a little early and say fuck it.
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yes, i meant at harvest. i've been through your situation before and it looks worse than it is in most cases. for your next run, i recommend forbid during veg as a preventative. @Dr. Who turned me on to this stuff and i am very impressed with it. no mites at all for months, and i couldn't find anything they weren't immune to...
 
F

Faustin024

Well-Known Member
cat of curiosity said:
yes, i meant at harvest. i've been through your situation before and it looks worse than it is in most cases. for your next run, i recommend forbid during veg as a preventative. @Dr. Who turned me on to this stuff and i am very impressed with it. no mites at all for months, and i couldn't find anything they weren't immune to...
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I use avid(just not this late) it works just as much wonders if you need another product forbid and flora mite def work wonders as well. Those bastards just snuck up in there on my rose plants and then did a seal team 6 down to my ladies LOL caught me off guard cause I even was using a microscope every week lol
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Faustin024 said:
I use avid(just not this late) it works just as much wonders if you need another product forbid and flora mite def work wonders as well. Those bastards just snuck up in there on my rose plants and then did a seal team 6 down to my ladies LOL caught me off guard cause I even was using a microscope every week lol
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Avid (active ingr, abamectin) contains an actual toxic substance. It is lethal to bee's and is highly toxic to aquatic wildlife...I choose not to use it for that reason.

Floramite (active ingr. bifenazate) again. It is also lethal to bee's but is listed as a Category IV (practically non toxic) chemical to Mammilian ingestion.

Forbid 4F (active ingr. spiromesifin) Is toxic to aquatic life. Is listed as a Category IV (practically non toxic) chemical to Mammilian ingestion. This is also an effective on Whitefly's......I have not had to find that out and never want to.....If you think mites are bad...You ain't seen a Whitefly problem yet!

I choose Forbid for several reason over the others....my choice. I have found that nothing works better - for me. I do and always will - AVOID AVID!

cat of curiosity said:
yes, i meant at harvest. i've been through your situation before and it looks worse than it is in most cases. for your next run, i recommend forbid during veg as a preventative. @Dr. Who turned me on to this stuff and i am very impressed with it. no mites at all for months, and i couldn't find anything they weren't immune to...
Click to expand...
If it's a preventative measure. I might try Oberon instead. Oberon is the 1/2 strength version of Forbid. this is used on Vegetables and fruits (berries). It maybe cheaper!

Did you know that Mighty Wash contains pyrethrin? It does, in such a small - minute actually, amount that by federal law (has to in Oregon) it does not have to list it on the label !! The unspoken truth is that Pyrethrin, in very very small amounts...is a mite repellent!
The use of it at seams of the walls, doors and anywhere a mite could enter....Repel's them....
That's how Mighty Wash actually works..It does not kill them, it makes them go away!

A friend has used it for years and I've never seen him get mites....He simply puts 1 drop of Pyretrin concentrate per gallon of water and fills a garden sprayer. He hose's down any place mites could come in, about once a week.....I can't bring myself to be proactive..I'll stick to being reactive. After all, I haven't had mites in years....

just my 2 cents
 
S

Samsonator

Well-Known Member
Faustin024 said:
Got spider mites at the end of harvest, assuming since they are spinning webs that they have been there for at least a month but I can't find any on the microscope and they don't seem to be doing any real damage yet. I was curious to if anyone has used mighty wash(just picked up a bottle) and if I was able to put it on the buds. Was worried it would ruin my smell and maybe increase chances of bud rot. Lmk what everyone thinks would be greatly appreciated
Click to expand...
If you are about to chop ripe plants down with mites on them, use a pump sprayed filled with warm water and a couple drops of dish soap. This will wash away the web's and a lot of the mites. Its not what you look to do normally, but to save some of you're nugs from being one giant web, it's an effective way without toxic chemicals.
 
chemphlegm

chemphlegm

Well-Known Member
I'd vacuum all visible evidence and with plants outside being sprayed with cold hose water
I'd bleach my rooms' surfaces and return shaken and dried plants. its two weeks, man, be over before you know it.

oh, and then....I'd never ever let another clone or grower into my space again:bigjoint:
 
thumper60

thumper60

Well-Known Member
cat of curiosity said:
i wouldn't risk spraying anything this late. at harvest, trim your branches and use a toothpick to manually remove webbing. hanging upside down, the mites will travel to the new ''top'' and die off as branches hang upside down. good luck!
Click to expand...
good reply,i have seen this happen hang up side down check with scope 24 hrs later,all mite on end of cut stem I think its works better then spraying late,killing an smoking
 
F

Faustin024

Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the opinions guys. I was just tripping cause I've put all this work in now they are attacking lol. I decided to just leave it be and combat the webbing every day with a toothpick(LOl) and then do a dunk wash before I flip them upside down. Dr who I feel like all three are very phytotoxic to environment, I use avid only on my roses but they are inside a contained tent so it really doesnt get sprayed anywhere but in a contained tent in a sealed room so I'm the only environmental factor. I was always wondering how you could repel them tho around the house. Good insight tho, cause I never took a clone in so I was baffled on how they got in
 
mr sunshine

mr sunshine

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
Avid (active ingr, abamectin) contains an actual toxic substance. It is lethal to bee's and is highly toxic to aquatic wildlife...I choose not to use it for that reason.

Floramite (active ingr. bifenazate) again. It is also lethal to bee's but is listed as a Category IV (practically non toxic) chemical to Mammilian ingestion.

Forbid 4F (active ingr. spiromesifin) Is toxic to aquatic life. Is listed as a Category IV (practically non toxic) chemical to Mammilian ingestion. This is also an effective on Whitefly's......I have not had to find that out and never want to.....If you think mites are bad...You ain't seen a Whitefly problem yet!

I choose Forbid for several reason over the others....my choice. I have found that nothing works better - for me. I do and always will - AVOID AVID!



If it's a preventative measure. I might try Oberon instead. Oberon is the 1/2 strength version of Forbid. this is used on Vegetables and fruits (berries). It maybe cheaper!

Did you know that Mighty Wash contains pyrethrin? It does, in such a small - minute actually, amount that by federal law (has to in Oregon) it does not have to list it on the label !! The unspoken truth is that Pyrethrin, in very very small amounts...is a mite repellent!
The use of it at seams of the walls, doors and anywhere a mite could enter....Repel's them....
That's how Mighty Wash actually works..It does not kill them, it makes them go away!

A friend has used it for years and I've never seen him get mites....He simply puts 1 drop of Pyretrin concentrate per gallon of water and fills a garden sprayer. He hose's down any place mites could come in, about once a week.....I can't bring myself to be proactive..I'll stick to being reactive. After all, I haven't had mites in years....

just my 2 cents
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Dude those white flies are fucken assholes, any tips on fucking them up? I've moved to a new place that is full of them. I've taken their numbers down significantly, but they don't want to leave. Should I just spray my whole backyard with avid? They're just fucking chilling everywhere, Trees, grass, bushes.




I'd rather deal with spidermites. I know you said you hate avid, I do too. But desperate times calls for desperate measures. I can't put any weed back there that's gunna be nasty. I gotta get rid of these flies first.
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
mr sunshine said:
Dude those white flies are fucken assholes, any tips on fucking them up? I've moved to a new place that is full of them. I've taken their numbers down significantly, but they don't want to leave. Should I just spray my whole backyard with avid? They're just fucking chilling everywhere, Trees, grass, bushes.




I'd rather deal with spidermites. I know you said you hate avid, I do too. But desperate times calls for desperate measures. I can't put any weed back there that's gunna be nasty. I gotta get rid of these flies first.
Click to expand...
I'd give the Avid a shot and follow it up with Forbid, in a rotation attack......Don't start with out having the forbid....
this way the whiteflies will not build a resistance to it. At least that's the idea in using that method. Whiteflies have a strong ability to become resistant to insecticides. A good bet is to use and insecticide soap to start and apply every 3-4 days till you target the remaining ones with the "nukers".

By attacking outside in your area. you might consider treating the area with Ortho systemic insect killer.
3 weeks later. Hit the area with Bayer advanced tree and shrub insect control and rotate into the nukers....

Whitefly parasites are effective in warmer months.

lacewing
Ladybugs

When i worked and ran greenhouses. We would order Encarsia formosa and Delphastus pusillus.. These things do a great job in controlling Whiteflies. At least in the greenhouses it did.....If you have them around, they'll stick around outdoors and really help in control...

Here's a public outlet for Whitefly preditors.

http://www.naturescontrol.com/whitefly.html

Good Luck! I hate them buggers too!
 
mr sunshine

mr sunshine

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
I'd give the Avid a shot and follow it up with Forbid, in a rotation attack......Don't start with out having the forbid....
this way the whiteflies will not build a resistance to it. At least that's the idea in using that method. Whiteflies have a strong ability to become resistant to insecticides. A good bet is to use and insecticide soap to start and apply every 3-4 days till you target the remaining ones with the "nukers".

By attacking outside in your area. you might consider treating the area with Ortho systemic insect killer.
3 weeks later. Hit the area with Bayer advanced tree and shrub insect control and rotate into the nukers....

Whitefly parasites are effective in warmer months.

lacewing
Ladybugs

When i worked and ran greenhouses. We would order Encarsia formosa and Delphastus pusillus.. These things do a great job in controlling Whiteflies. At least in the greenhouses it did.....If you have them around, they'll stick around outdoors and really help in control...

Here's a public outlet for Whitefly preditors.

http://www.naturescontrol.com/whitefly.html

Good Luck! I hate them buggers too!
Click to expand...
Cool, thank you so much.
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Faustin024 said:
I use avid(just not this late) it works just as much wonders if you need another product forbid and flora mite def work wonders as well. Those bastards just snuck up in there on my rose plants and then did a seal team 6 down to my ladies LOL caught me off guard cause I even was using a microscope every week lol
Click to expand...
don't use miticides.. use predator mites
trust me, i'm fairly sure I've battled mites more than any human on the planet.
miticides will breed a super-mite, resistant to miticides
you kill 99% of the mites, and the only ones left to fuck and procreate (at maddening efficiency no less) are the resistant ones
over four yrs i bred mites that were resistant to EVERYTHING.
no joke.
and i lost a 100 dollar bet to my friend about all this
i told him NO fuckin way predator mites would work for these.
annnd i had to buy him a 100 dollar steak, cuz i was WRONG.
no spraying, no work, now reapplication every three days,no nasty dead chemical infested mite bodies on the buds, just millions of mites being systematically hunted down and eaten alive by the predator mites, your plants will be picked clean as hell, and the predator mites take off after they are finished.

Plus like i always say.. the thought of them being ripped apart, and eaten alive in hopefully a VERY painful death?
makes me fuckin happy.

CRUCIAL that the correct predator mite is chosen, you need to buy from someone that knows WTF is up with them, if the wrong species is bought?
they don't do shit.
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
cat of curiosity said:
yes, i meant at harvest. i've been through your situation before and it looks worse than it is in most cases. for your next run, i recommend forbid during veg as a preventative. @Dr. Who turned me on to this stuff and i am very impressed with it. no mites at all for months, and i couldn't find anything they weren't immune to...
Click to expand...
it'll work 99% effectively for like the first maybe four or five applications, then you may see resistance.
mine laughed at forbid, avid, azamax, pyrethrins, dichlorvos, etc.
mites are amazing creatures, if we evolved as fast as they did, we'd be supreme beings moving shit with our minds...
more importantly NOBODY knows what happens when you smoke herb with traces of miticides on it.
no studies on that at all.
i don't want to be 55 and having a weird obscure cancer and be thinkin
"wonder if the yrs of miticides were safe to use..?"
 
714steadyeddie

714steadyeddie

Well-Known Member
I could use some help fellas what does this look like any sort of bug eggs.

I don't have a loupe at the moment.

It's mostly on new growth. No bite marks yet.

All I have is spinosad for prevention IMG_6146.JPGIMG_6147.JPGIMG_6148.JPGIMG_6150.JPG
 
Bugeye

Bugeye

Well-Known Member
If not trichomes, you better figure out what lays eggs that look like trichomes. You have trichomes on leaves in veg. That's my guess, but get a fucking scope and get a clear look. Good luck!
 
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