Spider Mites-Malathion

HDPursuit

HDPursuit

Well-Known Member
Hey Folks, gotta problem with spider mites and the nearest grow shop is 200 miles. Our garden centers are closing out and all I could find was Malathion by spectricide, insect spray for fruits and vegies, is this safe for my girls and me and get rid of the spider mites? Thanks
 
weedemart

weedemart

Well-Known Member
yes it would work but be carefull with this , its very harmfull for you and plant, test first on one plant. its a good systemic, already worked with.
 
chairroller

chairroller

Active Member
The tiny spider mites can be detected only by a full and thorough leaf inspection (on both sides of the leaf). If you find Spider Mites you must act fast and hit them hard.
The thing about spider mites is they are very quick to take over your plant, and even quicker to evolve and adapt to whatever methods you are using to try to kill them. They will soon develop resistance to almost any method you use to get rid of them.
If you have problems with spider mites, keep a constant and varied offence for the best chance at success.
If you already have an infestation, start hitting them hard with something that will kill them on contact.
Follow up in 2-3 days with something different that kills their eggs as well as a different method to kill the remaining adults (these ones will already be more resistant to your original method).
Repeat those two step at least one more time to ensure that you have really cleaned out your grow room.
 
HDPursuit

HDPursuit

Well-Known Member
So the Malathion is good for killing the mites or the larvae? Their in both my veg and flower rooms now. War is On! Where do the little suckers come from anyway? "If your Enemy goes to ground, give him no ground to go to" I need to find the source as well as committing genocide on the lil bastards.
 
Sunbiz1

Sunbiz1

Well-Known Member
HDPursuit said:
Hey Folks, gotta problem with spider mites and the nearest grow shop is 200 miles. Our garden centers are closing out and all I could find was Malathion by spectricide, insect spray for fruits and vegies, is this safe for my girls and me and get rid of the spider mites? Thanks
Click to expand...
http://www.spectracide.com/Products-and-Solutions/Other-Insect-Killers/Spectracide-Malathion-Insect-Spray-Concentrate.aspx

Be careful with this stuff, if you must use it do not leave on plants...I'd wait 20 minutes then rinse w/plain water.
 
JonnyAppleSeed420

JonnyAppleSeed420

New Member
They can catch a ride on your clothing from outside or someone elses garden, or come in through your ventilation. Once their in...look out! Get on them fast, hit them hard every second day. Using three different product usually knocks them down to where they are manageable. There are a number of decent products but they key is changing it up regularly. If you can clean and bleach everything between cycles and if your perpetual...get cleaning. Clean, clean, and more cleaning will help as much as the poisons...JAS
 
HDPursuit

HDPursuit

Well-Known Member
3 different kinds, geez tough lil shits. Installed some filters on my intake and the battle will continue. Complete scrub down and spray with the Malithion. Is it ok to use on flowering plants? Are there any that shouldn't be used during flowering? Sunbiz, I'm in your neck of the woods, what do you use for pest control? JAS thanks, new avatar?
 
weedemart

weedemart

Well-Known Member
never use pesticide if u are in flower. btw malathion is a systemic, even if u clean, it stay in the plant for~1month , maybe more.
 
JonnyAppleSeed420

JonnyAppleSeed420

New Member
I think they state not to use within 4 weeks of harvest. You really don't want to use any in flower but this dude MUST do something, its not aphids...its spider mites! Flower or no flower those little bastards will leave you nothing if left unchecked. Read labels, this is the best way to inform yourself. Hand picking sounds like it out of the question. The other extreme you can implement is a bug bomb, They will kill every living bug instantly, this is where the 3 part comes in, once you have killed the live ones you will need to wait for the hatch. Even a soap water solution can be used as part of you arsenal. Neemoil used in conjunction with the others mentioned would make a good front. Can you get your hands on lady bugs? they also work but they are slow to react if time is of the essence. JAS
 
A

adower

Well-Known Member
Once your into deep flower you don't have much options. Get some mitey wash and go in daily to keep them at bay. The mitey was they can't build an immunity to. Just be persistent and you will be fine
 
HDPursuit

HDPursuit

Well-Known Member
I'm 3 weeks into flower and veg is full up. Malithion says up to 7 days before harvest, but they don't list mary jane in the instructions ;) Have mixed up 1 teaspoon to a gallon and will be tackling the start of the war. I'll be hitting the net to see if I can find Mitey Wash reasonably priced. For now I'll be trying what I have. Sometimes living in BF is a drag, but not often ;)
 
SpicySativa

SpicySativa

Well-Known Member
Jeez... Threads like this make me REALLY glad I don't consume any meds grown by strangers... Spraying malathion on a crop that you cannot/will not wash before consumption... Really???

A great quote from William Albrect:

“Insects and disease are the symptoms of a failing crop, not the cause of it. It’s not the overpowering invader we must fear but the weakened condition of the victim.”
 
Po boy

Po boy

Well-Known Member
malathion is not a systemic:it's a contact pesticide. if that's all you have then i would use it during veg. only under dire conditions should it be used during early flowering and then rinsed off after twenty minutes or so, as earlier stated. it works great but heed the advice that everyone has given. GL
 
M

Mr Malathion

New Member
HDPursuit said:
Hey Folks, gotta problem with spider mites and the nearest grow shop is 200 miles. Our garden centers are closing out and all I could find was Malathion by spectricide, insect spray for fruits and vegies, is this safe for my girls and me and get rid of the spider mites? Thanks
Click to expand...
Seriously people, I realize you're all potheads, but if you don't know what you are talking about, maybe you shouldn't be giving out advice about pesticides.

First:
Malathion is NOT systemic in any way shape or form, it is a contact insecticide. (NOTE, _INSECTICIDE_ not Mitecide.)

Second:
More importantly, although Malathion is listed for mite control (it really shouldn't be), it is a horrible mitecide. It's highly toxic to most mite predators, and has very low toxicity to the actual mites, this usually results in mite flare ups when used to control non mite pests. Imidaclopride (which IS systemic) also causes mite flare ups.

Third:
Malathion is one of the most toxic and most broad spectrum of all the currently available insecticides, essentially a last resort atom bomb. Although it's "safe" when used as directed, it's not something you want to be coming into contact with on a daily basis, IE, I'd use it outdoors, but not indoors, and not on something that's going to be eaten (or smoked).

Safe quick and effective:
Neem oil.
Insecticidal soap.
Lady bugs! They eat them like candy, aphids and most other pests as well. Obviously don't use them with any broad spectrum insecticide or they'll be the first to die.
A hose. Yes, in a pinch you can actually wash most of the little buggers off with a stream of water.

All are inexpensive.

For a little more horse power:
Abamectin (Avid) A VERY effective mitecide, with relatively low toxicity . . . at least compared to Malathion.

Follow the above with a growth regulator:
pyridalyl (Overture)
hexythiazox (Hexygon)
etoxazole (TetraSan)

These are NOT cheap, but you can find small quantities available on ebay if you're not going to need a whole gallon.

Growth regulators ether cause sterility in survivors, or keep the eggs from developing. They only effect arachnids like mites, ticks, spiders, etc. so have essentially zero toxicity to humans. Mite eggs hatch in 3 days, so make sure you time your sprays correctly.

BTW, Mites like dry and hot conditions, so keeping the grow area cool and damp will go a long way towards keeping the little bastards at bay. Also water or disease stressed plants are much more likely to be hit by mites.
 
Last edited:
hotrodharley

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
Mr Malathion said:
Seriously people, I realize you're all potheads, but if you don't know what you are talking about, maybe you shouldn't be giving out advice about pesticides.

First:
Malathion is NOT systemic in any way shape or form, it is a contact insecticide. (NOTE, _INSECTICIDE_ not Mitecide.)

Second:
More importantly, although Malathion is listed for mite control (it really shouldn't be), it is a horrible mitecide. It's highly toxic to most mite predators, and has very low toxicity to the actual mites, this usually results in mite flare ups when used to control non mite pests. Imidaclopride (which IS systemic) also causes mite flare ups.

Third:
Malathion is one of the most toxic and most broad spectrum of all the currently available insecticides, essentially a last resort atom bomb. Although it's "safe" when used as directed, it's not something you want to be coming into contact with on a daily basis, IE, I'd use it outdoors, but not indoors, and not on something that's going to be eaten (or smoked).

Safe quick and effective:
Neem oil.
Insecticidal soap.
Lady bugs! They eat them like candy, aphids and most other pests as well. Obviously don't use them with any broad spectrum insecticide or they'll be the first to die.
A hose. Yes, in a pinch you can actually wash most of the little buggers off with a stream of water.

All are inexpensive.

For a little more horse power:
Abamectin (Avid) A VERY effective mitecide, with relatively low toxicity . . . at least compared to Malathion.

Follow the above with a growth regulator:
pyridalyl (Overture)
hexythiazox (Hexygon)
etoxazole (TetraSan)

These are NOT cheap, but you can find small quantities available on ebay if you're not going to need a whole gallon.

Growth regulators ether cause sterility in survivors, or keep the eggs from developing. They only effect arachnids like mites, ticks, spiders, etc. so have essentially zero toxicity to humans. Mite eggs hatch in 3 days, so make sure you time your sprays correctly.

BTW, Mites like dry and hot conditions, so keeping the grow area cool and damp will go a long way towards keeping the little bastards at bay. Also water or disease stressed plants are much more likely to be hit by mites.
Click to expand...
Thank you, Jesus, for sending along informed posters. One word of expert advice beats pages of bullshit any day. Thanks. Retired RN and I know all this because I am used to MSDS sheets and extended info we got in ER. If you do not know about a subject then start reading.And not bull crap from RIU posters. I look up EVERYTHING from the beneficial to the bad. Again, thanks.
 
hotrodharley

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
Mr Malathion said:
Seriously people, I realize you're all potheads, but if you don't know what you are talking about, maybe you shouldn't be giving out advice about pesticides.

First:
Malathion is NOT systemic in any way shape or form, it is a contact insecticide. (NOTE, _INSECTICIDE_ not Mitecide.)

Second:
More importantly, although Malathion is listed for mite control (it really shouldn't be), it is a horrible mitecide. It's highly toxic to most mite predators, and has very low toxicity to the actual mites, this usually results in mite flare ups when used to control non mite pests. Imidaclopride (which IS systemic) also causes mite flare ups.

Third:
Malathion is one of the most toxic and most broad spectrum of all the currently available insecticides, essentially a last resort atom bomb. Although it's "safe" when used as directed, it's not something you want to be coming into contact with on a daily basis, IE, I'd use it outdoors, but not indoors, and not on something that's going to be eaten (or smoked).

Safe quick and effective:
Neem oil.
Insecticidal soap.
Lady bugs! They eat them like candy, aphids and most other pests as well. Obviously don't use them with any broad spectrum insecticide or they'll be the first to die.
A hose. Yes, in a pinch you can actually wash most of the little buggers off with a stream of water.

All are inexpensive.

For a little more horse power:
Abamectin (Avid) A VERY effective mitecide, with relatively low toxicity . . . at least compared to Malathion.

Follow the above with a growth regulator:
pyridalyl (Overture)
hexythiazox (Hexygon)
etoxazole (TetraSan)

These are NOT cheap, but you can find small quantities available on ebay if you're not going to need a whole gallon.

Growth regulators ether cause sterility in survivors, or keep the eggs from developing. They only effect arachnids like mites, ticks, spiders, etc. so have essentially zero toxicity to humans. Mite eggs hatch in 3 days, so make sure you time your sprays correctly.

BTW, Mites like dry and hot conditions, so keeping the grow area cool and damp will go a long way towards keeping the little bastards at bay. Also water or disease stressed plants are much more likely to be hit by mites.
Click to expand...
You should write threads just on a single pesticide or mitecide. There is so much dangerous and incorrect advice out there.
 
Colo MMJ

Colo MMJ

Well-Known Member
Try Canola oil with a tblsp of dish soap like Dawn. In a gallon sprayer. Canola oil is $1.00 at Wal Mart for 16 ozs.
 
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