To Grow or Not to Grow

RayRay747

Well-Known Member
so I have this auto sour diesel that is seriously stunted and having some deficiencies which I think started from the soil pH being way to high (8.5-9.0 range). Was thinking an iron deficiency but unsure and not sure I want to attempt to save this plant. I’ve only kept it this long to try and diagnose the issue for training purposes.

My question to RIU peeps is: do I pull this plant and make room for a new opportunity or try and wait to see yields?

I’m pretty sure this one is severely stunted as it’s sister is looking like a beast compared to this one.

Stunted Auto Sour Diesel:

0D950878-90DF-4137-BF1B-A7177AED70B5.jpeg

It’s Sister Auto Sour Diesel:

A45CBBF4-D943-41AB-843B-D37FFAF3920E.jpeg
 

blake9999

Well-Known Member
Just adjust the PH to 6.2 to 6.5 and keep going. These are Weeds and bounce back quickly once you get it in check. bongsmilie
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
depends on how much room you have. if you have the room to spare, correct any remaining issues on the smaller plant, let it veg a little longer to catch up, and it ought to be ok. if you need the room, get rid of it now and start a fresh plant, after making sure the same issues aren't going to occur again.
 

RayRay747

Well-Known Member
Just adjust the PH to 6.2 to 6.5 and keep going. These are Weeds and bounce back quickly once you get it in check. bongsmilie
It’s an auto forget to mention that. Not sure how much more it can bounce back tbh. It’s already over one month old compared to its sister which is just under 2 weeks.

Not sure if it’s worth it.
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
still the same answer i guess. the smaller plant won't have time to catch up to the larger one, but it'll still flower. if you're counting on that plant to keep you in smoke, you might want to just shit can it and start again, it'll flower, but it won't yield like the other one
 

RayRay747

Well-Known Member
still the same answer i guess. the smaller plant won't have time to catch up to the larger one, but it'll still flower. if you're counting on that plant to keep you in smoke, you might want to just shit can it and start again, it'll flower, but it won't yield like the other one
It has been shit canned lol. I didnt want to waste my light space and energy on that plant when i can start a photo and get the yields over 15ozs if possible per plant. I can deal with that vs a shitty stunted auto giving me 1gram lmao. was hurtful to pull but i know its for the better and my photo that is about to pop the soil will appreciate me more for giving them the space they need.

The two other autos that were not stunted are seriously growing like they are on some good smoke. Two rounds of LST and another round coming tomorrow and sites are popping up all over....
 

RayRay747

Well-Known Member
How did you get your soil to be ph9, like thats rare for soil.

:-)
Well I have a couple theories:

1) my tap water comes out around 7.3-7.4...I used to boil the water which after that and testing the pH, the pH was increased to around 8.3. Not sure if the substances in the water are breaking down when the water is boiled which in turn causes one of those substances to increase in volume causing the pH to increase.

2) I added oranges to the boiled tap water. Now I read that when the oranges get added to water it creates additional ammonia which in turn increases pH.

I was using oranges as a way to try and reduce chloramine but no longer go this route and just bubble, add my nutes and call it a day..

Nevertheless, i switched to using just spring water now, bubbled that for a few hours, add my nutes, bubble the nute mix for about 30-60mins then feed the plants. This seems to work well and my plants are like night and day now. No more stunted plants and my current ones going are looking great imo.
 

RayRay747

Well-Known Member
What sort of soil is it?
Stonington blend growers mix - their "super soil"

It def is not the soil and the 5 others i have going are not stunted and have no evident issues. The two other autos are by far doing much better than the 2 that were/are stunted. I thrashed one and am flushing the other tongiht and tomorrow and will dry it for some small smoke to have.

I have 3 (3 autos) in coast of maine super soil and have 2 (photos) in dr. earth 2/3 and 1/3 coco with some added organic plant food to give that soil a try...

All plants besides the one that were fed with the water described above are doing great. Those 2 plants were in the coast of maine super soil, but im pretty sure it had to do with the water problems I was causing or have with using the tap water.
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Ah cool, I only asked because it looked the same colour as coco. I'm not a soil guy so was just wondering (mainly hoping it wasn't coco with how you had it PHd) bongsmilie
 

RayRay747

Well-Known Member
Ah cool, I only asked because it looked the same colour as coco. I'm not a soil guy so was just wondering (mainly hoping it wasn't coco with how you had it PHd) bongsmilie
yeah i would have really done some messed up stuff lol. But yeah. I would have loved to pinpoint the issue but I can only say for certain its either from boiling the water, boiling the water and adding oranges or just adding oranges to unboiled tap water. So until I have the time/patience to test the tap water with the plants again (and possibly lose a plant) I will stick with my $1.30 per 5gallon spring water...:) Thanks for the responses tho. This is a great way for me to learn so much and also try and contribute.
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Soil is not really changed by the ph of water, any science to this would lie in the very weak water buffers.

If you add oranges to water your doing weird stuff some noob made up mainly.

Your water can be analysed from the water report that is publically available from almost all first world water systems.

Chlorine does f'all to soil, whats your level 3ppm or somthing, again dont listen to these myths just ugnore and use.

Mainly its somthing else not related to water and soil has very strong buffers to counteract most things.

If you new just use basic soil water and ferts and dont comlicate stuff.

Again id like to mert the person that started this orange chlorine rubbish to apply some real science to his ass.

These sites just confuse if your not use to then, grow it like anything else and ignire all the rubbish, we cab check your water very easily if you post the detailed water analysis here :-)
 

RayRay747

Well-Known Member
Soil is not really changed by the ph of water, any science to this would lie in the very weak water buffers.

If you add oranges to water your doing weird stuff some noob made up mainly.

Your water can be analysed from the water report that is publically available from almost all first world water systems.

Chlorine does f'all to soil, whats your level 3ppm or somthing, again dont listen to these myths just ugnore and use.

Mainly its somthing else not related to water and soil has very strong buffers to counteract most things.

If you new just use basic soil water and ferts and dont comlicate stuff.

Again id like to mert the person that started this orange chlorine rubbish to apply some real science to his ass.

These sites just confuse if your not use to then, grow it like anything else and ignire all the rubbish, we cab check your water very easily if you post the detailed water analysis here :-)
def. i learned and changed my technique fast. all my plants are vibrant now and flourishing. my environment is dialed in nicely and I think the 3 autos and 2 photos I have going now will do just fine with the water/feed regimen I have going now. At least now I know for certain those 2 ugly plants were stunted, if we compare them to the 2 newer autos i got going...

Unless it was the soil which is possible but I guess I wont really know now until i go back to using tap water which i will try out once I get some yields under my belt so i can have something to smoke lol...
 
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