Transplanting without the stress.

bf80255

Well-Known Member
@bf80255 no problem. Thanks for calling me back.

I still think patience is best for transplanting. If the whole root ball won't pop right out. She ain't ready.

But I appreciate your experiments. Keep it up brother.
I disagree with you on that point only because with autos if you wait until the roots have filled the cup youve pretty much already stunted it. photos tho, yeah 100%

definitely agree with the patience part , thanks man for sure! :D



thankfully over the last few decades of growing I've learned how to use the rite size final pot .....I usually just slide the root ball rite out of the solo cups no issue in the evening and transplant ......with no issues/stress...GL
I appreciate the input michiganmed but like I was saying, im really trying to find a way around transplanting because for someone with years of experience gardening, transplanting is pretty hum drum, Ive transplanted plenty of autos with zero shock myself but to the beginner gardener it can be pretty difficult.

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Indacouch

Well-Known Member
I disagree with you on that point only because with autos if you wait until the roots have filled the cup youve pretty much already stunted it. photos tho, yeah 100%

definitely agree with the patience part , thanks man for sure! :D
Missed the autos part indeed ....I've never fucked with autos ....so your response to me would be accurate since I have no exp with autos ....GL
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
I disagree with you on that point only because with autos if you wait until the roots have filled the cup youve pretty much already stunted it. photos tho, yeah 100%

definitely agree with the patience part , thanks man for sure! :D
I admit I only grew autos in their final pot. I forgot about the autos for a minute there.

so I have no experience transplanting one but I don't see any reason it would stunt them. And the autos I grew didn't mind training and one went almost 4 months total and was killer weed. And one was pretty much burned to death but was flushed and re grew her leaves and still finished fat. In fact she had the highest yield.

Myths were continually busted when I grew them.

So I don't know if you are correct either. Autos flower at a certain maturity not root length.
 

Indacouch

Well-Known Member
I admit I only grew autos in their final pot. I forgot about the autos for a minute there.

so I have no experience transplanting one but I don't see any reason it would stunt them. And the autos I grew didn't mind training and one went almost 4 months total and was killer weed. And one was pretty much burned to death but was flushed and re grew her leaves and still finished fat. In fact she had the highest yield.

Myths were continually busted when I grew them.

So I don't know if you are correct either. Autos flower at a certain maturity not root length.
I've never grown em.....but also don't see why transplanting techniques that work great would be any different for autos in cups opposed to regulars in cups transplant wise ......oh well nothing I actually have to concerned with anyway
 

tk9119

Well-Known Member
Use 2 solo cups, cut bottom out of 1 cup and cut from bottom of same cup to the rim of cup leaving 1/4 inch uncut do the same on opposite side of cup. Side cut cup into uncut cup take hole for drainage. When transplanting into final pot pull inner cup out put in final pot cover sides with medium, cut 1/4 of rim of cup you left pull both sides of cup out --- done
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
Use 2 solo cups, cut bottom out of 1 cup and cut from bottom of same cup to the rim of cup leaving 1/4 inch uncut do the same on opposite side of cup. Side cut cup into uncut cup take hole for drainage. When transplanting into final pot pull inner cup out put in final pot cover sides with medium, cut 1/4 of rim of cup you left pull both sides of cup out --- done
If you are going to do that can't you just cut the bottom out of the only cup and place the bottomless cup on the new pot and cut away the cup and fill around with soil.
 

bf80255

Well-Known Member
Missed the autos part indeed ....I've never fucked with autos ....so your response to me would be accurate since I have no exp with autos ....GL
lol thanks man

I admit I only grew autos in their final pot. I forgot about the autos for a minute there.

so I have no experience transplanting one but I don't see any reason it would stunt them. And the autos I grew didn't mind training and one went almost 4 months total and was killer weed. And one was pretty much burned to death but was flushed and re grew her leaves and still finished fat. In fact she had the highest yield.

Myths were continually busted when I grew them.

So I don't know if you are correct either. Autos flower at a certain maturity not root length.
well the thing is when you transplant, even if you dont see it, your damaging the roots to an extent (would be impossible not to considering root hairs are invisible to the naked eye and if you have visible roots when transplanting youve definitely broke a bunch.) the main issue with that is autos unlike photos have a finite life cycle.... so say this plant will run through its cycle in 120 days from seed, if you transplant it at any point its gunna take 3-4 days to recover from the damage/shock and start growing well again. you just took 120 days of potential light/nutrients/growth and turned it into 116 and thats like 80 less hours of light with an auto lol yah see what i mean? but I get you, they definitely take a lot of punishment and keep going the question is just, whats optimal?

Use 2 solo cups, cut bottom out of 1 cup and cut from bottom of same cup to the rim of cup leaving 1/4 inch uncut do the same on opposite side of cup. Side cut cup into uncut cup take hole for drainage. When transplanting into final pot pull inner cup out put in final pot cover sides with medium, cut 1/4 of rim of cup you left pull both sides of cup out --- done
Badda Bing! and we have a winner! lol thanks man, definitely gunna try this!
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
@bf80255 i don't ever see transplant stress. They are happy to be in the larger pot. They go right back under intense light and grow a node usually in a couple of hours after. This is the sign of a healthy hungry ready to be up potted plant.

And I just told you my auto re grew its leaves after major deficiency and still finished with a qp on her a month late.

The only thing different about autos is that they flower when they reach maturity rather than because of length of darkness.

All the rest is myth from forums and internet guides.

So you have re stated your beliefs and so have I. Let's just agree to disagree on this.

I won't post about it to you anymore.
 

bf80255

Well-Known Member
@bf80255 i don't ever see transplant stress. They are happy to be in the larger pot. They go right back under intense light and grow a node usually in a couple of hours after. This is the sign of a healthy hungry ready to be up potted plant.

And I just told you my auto re grew its leaves after major deficiency and still finished with a qp on her a month late.

The only thing different about autos is that they flower when they reach maturity rather than because of length of darkness.

All the rest is myth from forums and internet guides.

So you have re stated your beliefs and so have I. Let's just agree to disagree on this.

I won't post about it to you anymore.
sounds good, nice chatting with you michigan.
 

BroSki95

New Member
Sorry to revive an old post, but what can be done to mitigate the shock symptoms when you transplant incorrectly or too soon or too late. Recently transplanted 3 from plants (2 bag, 1 auto) and they're dieing. Leaves are crispy, droopy, and it seems like they haven't gotten any better.

Started by turning off my 300w led and resorting to my 2- 23w cfl fixtures. Was that the right move? What else can I do?
 

Cannabis.Queen

Well-Known Member
Sorry to revive an old post, but what can be done to mitigate the shock symptoms when you transplant incorrectly or too soon or too late. Recently transplanted 3 from plants (2 bag, 1 auto) and they're dieing. Leaves are crispy, droopy, and it seems like they haven't gotten any better.

Started by turning off my 300w led and resorting to my 2- 23w cfl fixtures. Was that the right move? What else can I do?
I need a bit more info on the transplant, like how it was done; did you use the same soil did you water right away, pot size? Photos too! You can send me a message if you'd like or create a threat and I'll see what I can do to help as will other members bongsmilie
 

Chuckdizzle

Well-Known Member
Use 2 solo cups, cut bottom out of 1 cup and cut from bottom of same cup to the rim of cup leaving 1/4 inch uncut do the same on opposite side of cup. Side cut cup into uncut cup take hole for drainage. When transplanting into final pot pull inner cup out put in final pot cover sides with medium, cut 1/4 of rim of cup you left pull both sides of cup out --- done
@bf80255 - Have you had a chance to try this method yet? Sounds like perfect idea to me. I also liked the weed block fabric idea, but I can see lots of potential for ripping off a bunch of roots that have grown into the fabric. This cut-cup within a cup idea seems great because the roots will be contained in the plastic and slide out instead of being ripped out.

Let us know if you've tried it and how it went!
 

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
This might sound weird. But panty hose. Cut the leg off of one. Put your soil in it and start your seed. You can first start it in peat pellet or whatever then panty hose. But anyway fill panty hose with soil and let it grow till you start seeing roots on the side. You can shape your dirt once wet. Then after u see roots put panty hose and all in bigger 5g or 10g pot whatever size u wanna use. The roots grow right through them. I've done it before but not with autos.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
I start seeds or clones in small 9-hole seed-starter pots and let them grow until they got some decent roots going then use a bread knife to cut the bottom of the rootball off and stick it in a bigger pot like 1L. Then I do it each time as they move up to 2L. 1gal, 2.5 and then a 4gal pot if I'm growing them big.

No special treatment other than to wet the fresh soil where the bottom of the sawed-off rootball will sit when dropped into it's new home. Always see new roots poking out the drain holes in a week or less so it doesn't really hurt to hurt your roots.

Just like your plants or its branches. You cut the end off and they branch out further down the line.

Treat them like babies and they'll act like babies.

Pruning a mother plant in a 2L tobacco can into another one full of holes to switch it to DWC.

ScroG04.jpg

A week later they looked like this.

Newroots.jpg

Release you fear and reach for the bread knife! :D
 

tk9119

Well-Known Member
I start seeds or clones in small 9-hole seed-starter pots and let them grow until they got some decent roots going then use a bread knife to cut the bottom of the rootball off and stick it in a bigger pot like 1L. Then I do it each time as they move up to 2L. 1gal, 2.5 and then a 4gal pot if I'm growing them big.

No special treatment other than to wet the fresh soil where the bottom of the sawed-off rootball will sit when dropped into it's new home. Always see new roots poking out the drain holes in a week or less so it doesn't really hurt to hurt your roots.

Just like your plants or its branches. You cut the end off and they branch out further down the line.

Treat them like babies and they'll act like babies.

Pruning a mother plant in a 2L tobacco can into another one full of holes to switch it to DWC.

View attachment 3983294

A week later they looked like this.

View attachment 3983295

Release you fear and reach for the bread knife! :D
Are you talking about an auto?????????
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Not supposed to transplant autos is what I hear.

I've grown some autos to breed with but not for yields. All mine are regular, non-fem plants.
 
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