Discussion in 'LED and other Lighting' started by Zbud94, Jan 9, 2017.
Ive owned a kind l600 and a platinum 600 and they both were nothing compare to the cobs--
wish i would of knew about cobs before i dumps over a g into these light but now i completely converted over to cobs--love the electricity bill-my mars 1200 or whatever the biggin they sell was drawing more electricity then the cobs they are not efficient-
cutter has cree cxb 3590 in various colors for 32.00 usd right now
I often steer a newbie to HID MH,, if they dont want to do the work of DIY cob, or they just dont understand , some people fear working with wires,, its ok i guess,, we are all differant , but a new bie with a HID mh set up will grow much better bud than CFL or blurple lights,, sure that stirs all types of emotions in some,
He is correct. Lol, i just purchased a 200w 4 cob from Dan at Timber this morning! Im replacing a viparspectra 900....crazy. dont get me wrong, ive had a lot of fun and learned a ton with my vipar, BUT,if you want to get serious results- you need better equipment. Factory made panels are wasteful, plain and simple. I used to defend them quite often. Perhaps if you do some more research on PAR and PPFD you will come on over to the cob side? I am super excited again!
Talk to Olive Drab Green... he used vipars also, then switched to cob...no turning back.
I can't decide if I want to get a timber citi or if I want to build my own citi...
I would imagine that not many of you LED guys have used a HID light, or you wouldn't recommend these crappy blurple lights, they are one of the worst lighting solutions out there.
Citi cobs are cool the holders and the passive sinks make it a snap
have you made any choices yet?,, hows the search going for you
I know the heat sinks aren't in the cart, they were out of stock. Should I run active or passive ? Thinking active to run more power if needed! What else am I gonna need ? Besides some simple ground wire?
if you run active, you will also need to get a power supply to run the pc fans, and its double the wiring,, having ran both active and passive now,, i much prefer the passive,, you should be able to get passives thru other sellers,,
I will also say, i was pleased by the amount of air movement in the canopy by the pc fans when turned up on high,,
but with passive your lights are more certain to not fail, as a pc fan failure would not be such a good thing
if you do go active cooling with the artic 11 pc sinks,, i used this power supply for the pc fans,, it lets you adjust the speed of the fans to suit your needs,, quieter,, louder,, ect, its adjustable,,
i might ad,, if you go active cooling with pc heat sinks, you WILL have to drill and tap the heat sinks yourself, and its not all that easy,, i have broken taps off and had to redrill, ect
That makes sense! So running each cob around 50 watts would be fine passive ? So then I could remove one of those drivers !
Yeah I'm not to keen on the drilling aspect of this diy. Like to keep that to a minimum.
yes you can drive your cobs at 50 watts with the passive sinks,,
here is the passive thread,,
agree with you,, drilling and tapping was a royal pain in the butt,, and added lots of time to the previous builds,, but back then the passives were not out yet,, so its all we could do
but with the passive predrilled sinks and the cob holders,, there is no drilling and no soldering any more,, espeically using those wago connectors
I'm doing a pictorial review of a Timber 2 light kit, hoping it will help folks in this situation. Timber kits are great.. I'm no wiring expert and the Timber kits feature very good wiring, recently upgraded to automotive grade water resistance. Pic and Dan's comments:
..these are automotive grade waterproof connectors that we use in all of our kits wherever there is an electrical connection. Additionally, we also use glue lined military grade heat shrink on the electrical fused inlet connection, which is rated for 250 V at 10 Amps and has a fuse (with a spare) in case of electrical surges – standard on all of our products, kits and framework units.
New change we made about a month ago – now the potentiometers are all detachable (with the same waterproof interconnects) in cast you want to run without dimming, or in case of failure so that you don’t have to send the entire power supply back, and will not result in down time in the event of a potentiometer failure.
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