Water cooled COB Build/pic heavy

Godfather420 said:

Which unit did/do you have? I saw a couple units like that, but most were chinese rebranders with no customer support....or 15k

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Godfather420 said:

I would add though, that in our high humidity situations, that to remove as much humidity as we do that with out adding heat to the equation most ac's would cool a room below target temp trying to keep the latent heat load down. Yes humidity is relative but only in the sense that as temp goes up it goes down and vice versa. However when you add a humidity creating source weather that be plants or humans, as we know, AC's will cool the room down and remove some of the humidity but not all of it. Like having a 70f wet bulb room temp and 70 percent humidity or 80f room temp with 70 percent humidity.

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ttystikk said:

These guys;
http://chillking.com/home.php

Who, by the way, helped Hydro Innovations get started. Then HI moved to Boulder, CO and was bought out and rebranded as Surna. Don't buy their shit, their customer service consisted of threatening to call the cops if I complained about their equipment not working.

The ChillKing unit I purchased was custom built with two internal tanks, two Ranco controllers, pressure switches for low side, high side and extraction fan, and a half horsepower water pump for each tank. Flow through the system can be anywhere from zero on up. 240V single phase, 16A when running, R410a.

And ChillKing stands behind their gear; they use Parker Sporlan filter driers. Parker changed the design and didn't notify ChillKing, so the hot side drier failed and killed my compressor. ChillKing coordinated with Parker and made sure they paid for ALL parts and labor for a complete end to end repair. The unit cost me less than $10k, and the peace of mind is worth every last red cent.

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ttystikk said:

Colder water in the water cooled air handler will solve this problem, as long as there's a heat source in the space. Balancing RH was done by adjusting chilled water circuit temperature. With HID grow lighting, that was never a problem.

I used the system to chill water cooled COB LED lighting modules of my own design. The lights actually got too cold!


This is how I was trying to accomplish it as well. In my early trials 60f water temp seemed baller! Then I figured I'd balance temp and humidity with my lights and warm air dehu's like the Sante Fe's, Quests, etc

I was in the midst of a redesign when the local police showed up and shut my lab down. I've been fighting with them since January. Yes, I'm in Colorado. Yes, it's legal here. Somehow the motherfuckers still want to treat me like a criminal, so I'm fighting it and taking it to trial if need be.

I renegading in a legal state too. Been at it a long time and I aint slowing down now.

I'll be happy to help with your project in any way I can, because this work needs to be done. Efficient indoor gardening is essential to the world's food supply in the future.

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Godfather420 said:

Thanks brother. Headed back to CAD land but i really appreciate your efforts in this. This is our motivation as well. This wonderful plant is a catalyst to stepping big ag's game up. Food shortages are coming and growing things indoor is gonna be mandatory if the costs of produce continue to rise. You've really blazed a solid trail in this water-cooling game. I intended to try and help push it further. Speaking of trail blazer's. an interesting company to watch. Lemnis Orion. Last I checked they were claiming something like 2.73mol/j. Talk to ya soon mate.

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ttystikk said:

That's Lemnis OREON. Took me a minute to find it!

I have a few connections in the LED world, I'll see how their claims stack up...

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Godfather420 said:

Thanks for the correction on Lemnis. Been following them for a while. They seem fairly legit but we all know the proof in the pudding.

Here's the new drawing that I'm working on. Damn, after looking at your unit, I really like what you did there TTYS.Question? do you get free cooling from that unit in the winter? I.E. no compressor load? Thats what I'm really after. I usually have to much waste heat to reclaim and would rather not create it than try to find somewhere to put it. If that makes sense. You see when your compressor is running in the winter, if your like me you've got the windows open in the winter to because your house/ garage is hot! In the dead of winter here, my windows are usually half open and I'm in my undies puffin on a chonger! I'd like to only pay for the heat I need. but without the compressor cycle, the water temps on our lights wold not be substantial enough to heat with. I.e. 60F water in 70f water out. You really need at least 110f to get decent hydronic loads. Anyways more question........I fucking love this shit! My brain hurts and I want more!!!!!!!!

"Sleep is like water, my body will tell me when I need that, not a watch." MEView attachment 3987164

Still got some valves to cut in and a flow meter, but 90%

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ttystikk said:

And the direction of airflow across the radiator in the water cooled air handler matters;

PUSH air through to cool it. This is the direction of heat flow in the climate controlled space.

PULL air through to warm it/cool the water. This the direction of flow for the 'compressorless chiller'.

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ttystikk said:

For cooling without a compressor you need a radiator and a fan on a thermostat. Water circuit passes water through the radiator. Fan kicks on when air temperature is below your target temperature, I used 50F.

You'll have to monitor the system or have a low temp cutoff because it's possible for such a setup to overdo it.

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Godfather420 said:

I didn't ever notice it making that big of a difference. When we cooled this thing last winterView attachment 3987705
It didn't seem to matter that we were pulling thru the radiator. I froze it up last winter cooling this do to low glycol content and lack of it being wired to temp sensor. But it crushed it hard. I already built my Free Cooler. So for now it'll be a pull through. Reesearch in the water-cooled pc game seems to show that it doesn't matter much whether you push or pull through a radiator. Not saying it doesn't at the larger scale, just what we noted. My 10t chiller also pulls through the radiators as well as most of the FCU's I looked at buying for dehumidification and cooling.

In the picture you'll see the power supplies and pcb's. This mined BITCOIN. Those power supplies are 600w a piece. 30,000w or 90,000btu of load.

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Growmau5 said:

@Godfather420 greetings. I try my best to get back with as many people as possible. Sorry if you slipped thru the cracks. How can I help you?

cheers

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