Watercooled Smart IC COB LED Build

ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
mahiluana said:
:peace: hi mr. ttystikk - sorry to mention, that all the sticky flowers we are talking about
here in rollitup - are a result of light-input, so light is not always transformed to heat.
In our case - THC & Co. is chemicaly stored light energy.
With PV panels you can charge your electric car and transform light into movement.

But you are right - heat is a very dominant form of energy, as we can see by the rising global temperature. But I guess you also still doubt, that even the most efficient CREE chip(or whatever)
produce > 70% of heat ? :eyesmoke::?:
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That's still heat accounted for in a closed system, isn't it?

I didn't doubt you at all.
 
wietefras

wietefras

Well-Known Member
mahiluana said:
@wietefras ?? Are you dyslexic ??
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No I am not, but your post was dumb.

The dissapointment is on my side.
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That's dumb too. Just try to learn first instead of screaming nonsense.

- you never did a watercooled build !
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I did. The heat absorbed from the COBs heating up the water matches the specs. So there are many reasons why I know you are wrong.
- you never measured the heat of a led chip !
Click to expand...
I have posted pictures with a thermal imaging camera ...
- you never read this link - as I told you 5 times 5 month ago !
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I did read the link, that's why I explained where you complete missed the point. As did others after me.,

But by all means go with ttystick meaningless spam and stick to your dead end misconception.

assume LEDs convert 25% of the input
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You accented the wrong bit. I fixed it for ya. The 25% is chosen arbitrarily to give an example calculation. That is not a given for all COBs. IF your COB is only 25% efficient THEN you need to cool 75% yes. However our COBs run at currents where they are usually 40% to 50% efficient and then you only need to cool 60% to 50%.
 
ssj4jonathan

ssj4jonathan

Well-Known Member
Wanted to update this thread for posterity's sake. Going with the most economical means of production has its downside. Given the humidity range of 40-80%, my $1 clipboard has started to bend slightly up from the corners where the eyebolts are located. The weight of the setup plus the humidity has started to bow the hardboard. It's minor and there's no need to panic.
Another problem I've been running into are with the water pumps, which are wired in parallel, they're are acting funny. Every once in a while one pump will turn off while the other keeps going. Once I turn off and on the AC adapter, they start working normally. Not sure what to do about that. Radiator fans, and waterpumps are all wired in parallel to a 6A 12V adapter. The fans are unaffected. Might have to solder the power leads on the waterpumps to get the electricity to flow equally. Luckily one pump is able to run water through both waterblocks, but the water goes backwards into and through the dead waterpump straight into the res, some goes through the radiator also.
Aside from that, the watercooled setup is working wonders. These COBs might be on the lower end of efficiency but they work real good. Also temps have not risen passed 2 degrees above ambient. I've been running this setup at 150W lately, however, I will be upping the wattage to 300-600 watts as the budding stage progresses. Started budding today! Will be building another 2 rigs after this budding cycle. Funds are tight right now so I have to put a hold on everything, including the electric bill (i.e. forced flowering. lol)
 
mahiluana

mahiluana

Well-Known Member
wietefras said:
That's dumb too. Just try to learn first instead of screaming nonsense.
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@wietefras : " I only quoted information of CREE and OSRAM "



Also, why can't you at least learn from the fact that you keep getting these basic things wrong? Why do I need to waste my time again on something so basic and so obvious? I have corrected you on at least a dozen major mistakes. It might be annoying that you need to be corrected, but at least learn from this. So when I tell you you are wrong again, at least be sensible enough to think and see why I'm right again and you are wrong again.

wietefras said:
I did. The heat absorbed from the COBs heating up the water matches the specs. So there are many reasons why I know you are wrong.
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mucho bla bla ---> photo please ?

wietefras said:
I have posted pictures with a thermal imaging camera .
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We talked about the heat power (W) your thermal imaging camara is absolutely useless to
measure watts - so sorry - it does not make any sense to reply to your posts in future.

Too stupid - too ignorant / that`s what i call " trumpyfied :finger:".
 
wietefras

wietefras

Well-Known Member
mahiluana said:
@wietefras : " I only quoted information of CREE and OSRAM "
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That's fine, but then you came with the idiotic statement that their calculation example is the best we can do. You don't need to cool 75%. That's just a calculation EXAMPLE of a poorly performing light.

It really cannot be this hard to grasp something so simple.
 
wietefras

wietefras

Well-Known Member
mahiluana said:
That`s what I say.

Pt = 0.75 * Vf * If !!!
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Yes and that's why you are such an idiot. As is immediately clear from the text you posted, that 75% is only valid if the efficiency of the leds is an ASSUMED 25%. Which is only valid for cheap Chinese burple fixtures and Kind LEDs. We run our COBs/strips/boards at up to 50% so then it would be:

Pt = 0.5 * Vf * If !!!

And then you went on not to understand the difference between dissipated heat an radiated heat/light in that other thread which supposedly proved your point. Double idiot.

If your parents weren't too stupid to buy a condom we wouldn't be having this nonsense from you ... :lol:
 
mahiluana

mahiluana

Well-Known Member
wietefras said:
Pt = 0.5 * Vf * If !!!
Click to expand...

:spew:Pt = 0.5 * Vf * If

wietefras said:
Chinese burple fixtures and Kind LEDs
Click to expand...

You are really dyslexic: Because CREE on his site nowhere mentioned burple or kind leds - they talk about CREE leds.

Nobody knows from where you suck " chinise burple " out of your sick brain.

:fire::fire::fire::arrow: As an expert in watercooled led light -

and world record holder in energy-efficacy of lamps and lightning in general,

I`m one of the only few producers of watercooled led lamp kits worldwide.

Many different led chips(CREE, CITIZEN,... and others)

were tested by myself to proof the amount of heat power dissipated.

The chip in the blue condom is a CREE royal blue XLamp
and CREE is wrong !!! - it`s not 50% energy efficient (maybe they talk about light efficiency)

Even high quality chip @ very low current produce the same heatpower =

Pt =~ 0.75 * Vf * If

:fire::fire::fire::idea: (for dyslexics))

CREE assume and estimate ~ what I know (and what everybody could know easiely)


You don`t assume or know anything
You just believe in your own shit
You are a stupid babyboy ...
and an ignorant piece of shit...:mrgreen:..

 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
mahiluana said:
:spew:Pt = 0.5 * Vf * If



You are really dyslexic: Because CREE on his site nowhere mentioned burple or kind leds - they talk about CREE leds.

Nobody knows from where you suck " chinise burple " out of your sick brain.

:fire::fire::fire::arrow: As an expert in watercooled led light -

and world record holder in energy-efficacy of lamps and lightning in general,

I`m one of the only few producers of watercooled led lamp kits worldwide.

Many different led chips(CREE, CITIZEN,... and others)

were tested by myself to proof the amount of heat power dissipated.

The chip in the blue condom is a CREE royal blue XLamp
and CREE is wrong !!! - it`s not 50% energy efficient (maybe they talk about light efficiency)

Even high quality chip @ very low current produce the same heatpower =

Pt =~ 0.75 * Vf * If

:fire::fire::fire::idea: (for dyslexics))

CREE assume and estimate ~ what I know (and what everybody could know easiely)


You don`t assume or know anything
You just believe in your own shit
You are a stupid babyboy ...
and an ignorant piece of shit...:mrgreen:..
Click to expand...
You've proven that watts in equals best out. Works for toasters, televisions, radios and LED lighting.

What's less clear is what percentage of the chip's output was light before it hit something (like the condom, for instance) and thus became heat.
 
wietefras

wietefras

Well-Known Member
:spew:Pt = 0.5 * Vf * If
Pt =~ 0.75 * Vf * If

:fire::fire::fire::idea: (for dyslexics))
Click to expand...
Wow this is just scary. You can curse and lie about your "achievements" all you want, but it's incredibly clear that that that 75% is just an example and not something that's fixed for all leds. Seriously how can that even be?

You should at least have some understanding that leds can me more or less efficient.

Here is your own quote again:
Cree royal blue XLamp LEDs are over 50% efficient and white XLamp LEDs are over 40% efficient. That is, under normal operating conditions, approximately 50% to 60% of the input power is output as heat
Click to expand...
That is what Cree literally tells us normally 50% to 60% is output as heat.

Then they continue to give an example of some useless calculations (since 50% efficiency simply means 50% is coming out is dissipated heat, so why would you need a fucking formula anyway??!?!!):
To be conservative, assume LEDs convert 25% of the input power to light and output 75% of the input power as heat.
Click to expand...
Perhaps you need to look up the words "conservative" and "assume" in the dictionary ...

And shytstikk might keep on upvoting your drivel, but even he should be able to understand that you're just talking bullshit. He just does that to people who shove feathers up his ass praising his unrelenting deluge of uninformative spam.

Anyway, this is the last you'll read from me. If you still are unable to understand this, you are just too dumb to know how dumb you are and obviously cannot be helped. Perhaps in 6 months or so you will look back on this and suddenly get it and feel that blush of red in your cheeks about how much of a dumbass you were not understanding something so simple.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
wietefras said:
Wow this is just scary. You can curse and lie about your "achievements" all you want, but it's incredibly clear that that that 75% is just an example and not something that's fixed for all leds. Seriously how can that even be?

You should at least have some understanding that leds can me more or less efficient.

Here is your own quote again:
That is what Cree literally tells us normally 50% to 60% is output as heat.

Then they continue to give an example of some useless calculations (since 50% efficiency simply means 50% is coming out is dissipated heat, so why would you need a fucking formula anyway??!?!!):


Perhaps you need to look up the words "conservative" and "assume" in the dictionary ...

And shytstikk might keep on upvoting your drivel, but even he should be able to understand that you're just talking bullshit. He just does that to people who shove feathers up his ass praising his unrelenting deluge of uninformative spam.

Anyway, this is the last you'll read from me. If you still are unable to understand this, you are just too dumb to know how dumb you are and obviously cannot be helped. Perhaps in 6 months or so you will look back on this and suddenly get it and feel that blush of red in your cheeks about how much of a dumbass you were not understanding something so simple.
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A wall of text signifying nothing.

As usual.
 
wietefras

wietefras

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
A wall of text signifying nothing.

As usual.
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It explains how efficiency should be calculated. Makes sense it's too much for you to understand 4 lines of text.

But talk about uninformative shit. Come on man, almost half the posts on this forum are yours and none of those have any useful information in them at all, plus a "wall of text" useless footer. It's just you fishing/fisting for likes all the time.

Anyway, you two bulshitting losers have fun with your bro-fest and "bro-science". If calculating 100% - 50% is already too difficult then it's a lost cause I'm afraid.
 
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