Watering in 3 Gallon pot

Hey guys, im starting my first grow with som autoflowering seeds (not sure yet what strain but would love suggestions!) and i know that it's best to plant your germinated seed into the 3 gallon pot you're going to harvest in. How much water should I give it in the 3 gallon pot. I have heard different things from only 2 cups every three days to completely watering the whole 3 gallon pot and waiting a week for the next watering. I want to start my first grow off right and not with over watering them! Thanks!
 

trichmasta

Active Member
1.Autoflower strains =LAME!!
2.never put a freshly germinated seeds in that big of a pot...start with a Dixie cup or a 1 gal.
3.with fresh transplants never over water!! I like to lightly water the soil before I drop my rapid rooter in, then inoculate, and backfill. After multiple (2-3) light feedings/waterings you can go for a little runoff out the pot. I shoot for 10-20% once plant is established in new home.
 

aCiDjEsUs

Well-Known Member
Autos are not lame, their just quicker and more convenient for smaller grow ops.
You should plant your autos straight into their final home, if you start them out in "solo" cups then transplant them you're looking at some stress to the plant, and you don't want that in autos there's not a lot of time for them to recover.

Just water the 3gal pot 'till you see run off about 24hrs before you plant the seeds in, if you use tap water remember to let it sit out for about 24hrs for the chlorine to evaporate and adjust your ph to 6.5 because tap water seems to run high in ph my, tap is at 7.6.

And after that when it's time to water when their young just stick your finger into the soil about 2 inches deep and if it feels dry then water with about 200ml of plain water, and when they grow up you will go by the weight of your pot, you will get the hang of it.

I always water my pot when their big till I see some run of and then I know I'm good for about 2-3 days it depends on the temps and RH.

So happy growing and have a nice and "sunny" day :)

No nutes till about 3 weeks in and then you want to start them off with 1/4 of it says on the chart.
 
Thanks acidjesus, i read everywhere not to stress an auto. I hope to eventually start growing with regular seeds and grow my own seeds with a male, but i want to start real easy because this is my very first grow. Also i was thinking of buying feminized seeds, does that change how i grow the auto at all? I want to buy the seeds of lowryder.co.uk because of theyre seeds selection. Does anyone know if they ship to USA, and also any other sites to buy auto seeds from with a big selection. Thanks!
 

Jogro

Well-Known Member
-There is no reason NOT to plant ceeds into their final pot *if* these are feminized ceeds and you have enough space to accomodate the larger pots. The main reason people start with small cups and such is to save space and do gender selection. But if you can avoid transplantation, that's never a BAD thing.

-How much you need to water depends mostly on temperature and size of plant. If the plants aren't too hot, and have plenty of soil volume, you can get away with watering every few days. Small autos in big pots, you shouldn't have to water too often. Obviously, the more water you add per watering, the less frequently you'll have to water. But yes, you can overwater, and also too much humidity (from overwatering) in a small grow space can promote mold problems, especially late in flowering.
 

lowblower

Well-Known Member
with bigger pots you need to water the whole soil, coz if you do just a few cups, that water will spread out and evaporate, so if you go out for a whole day your seedling will go crispy and dieeeeeeee. There aint no probs with watering the whole pot, just make sure you dont water again till it really needs it. It means you will need to be alot more careful bascally, coz seedling are vulnerable :leaf:
 

truepunk87

Well-Known Member
I don't water my plants very much unless its a flush. Basicly I do Mandro, water less more often :)
 

aCiDjEsUs

Well-Known Member
Thanks acidjesus, i read everywhere not to stress an auto. I hope to eventually start growing with regular seeds and grow my own seeds with a male, but i want to start real easy because this is my very first grow. Also i was thinking of buying feminized seeds, does that change how i grow the auto at all? I want to buy the seeds of lowryder.co.uk because of theyre seeds selection. Does anyone know if they ship to USA, and also any other sites to buy auto seeds from with a big selection. Thanks!
I think majority of autos are feminised seeds, and no that doesn't change a thing.

I don't know about lowryder.co.uk, but you can always check the sponsor of our site Sea of Seeds they got very nice selection of autos and they do ship to the states ;)
I used Attitude twice and they are too a good seed bank, and they ship to the states ;)
 

loquacious

Well-Known Member
okey dokey shit lips!! Keep listening to myths of growing and not learn yourself...transplanting causes very little if any shock. Lol!!:lol:
putting any seed in a container you hope to achieve any decent yield from is just stupid and laughable!!

I'll leave you auto flower herm lover fan boys alone now.
Please don't feed this worthless troll! For your information, starting in a solo cup and transplanting is pointless and a myth perpetuated by dipshits like you!
 

ltecato

Well-Known Member
OK, what if you plant a seed in a big pot and it grows four inches and dies? You have a large pot full of soil that is now contaminated, which could be a problem if you hope to reuse it. So you've wasted a bunch of expensive dirt, maybe, and have nothing to show for it. What would it hurt to plant the seeds in peat pots and then switch the seedlings to bigger pots once they grow a decent root system? Or starting the seeds in rockwool cubes?
 

loquacious

Well-Known Member
OK, what if you plant a seed in a big pot and it grows four inches and dies? You have a large pot full of soil that is now contaminated, which could be a problem if you hope to reuse it. So you've wasted a bunch of expensive dirt, maybe, and have nothing to show for it. What would it hurt to plant the seeds in peat pots and then switch the seedlings to bigger pots once they grow a decent root system? Or starting the seeds in rockwool cubes?
There is no need to start in a cup. I didn't say you couldn't, I just said that it is not needed.
 

Trousers

Well-Known Member
okey dokey shit lips!! Keep listening to myths of growing and not learn yourself...transplanting causes very little if any shock. Lol!!:lol:
You are not smart enough to understand what I wrote. Why transplant if you can avoid it? It is more work and unnecessary. If you need to do it for reasons like space and all, okay, but why not avoid it if you can? Why? Because you are a dumbass.
putting any seed in a container you hope to achieve any decent yield from is just stupid and laughable!!
Your English is stupid and laughable. What are you trying to say?
I'll leave you auto flower herm lover fan boys alone now.
There it is, the hallmark and bastion of stupidity, the "herm" argument. You are too stupid to be giving advice. Go away and play with your toys, maybe have your mom make you some hot cocoa with petite marshmallows.
 
Thanks everyone for all the replies/advice! I am about 2-3 weeks away from starting my grow. I think i am going to get my seeds at Attitude Seeds since they seem to have the best reputation as well as great promotions. Couple more things i need some help with:
1.What about the nutrient feeding schedule. I have fox farm both soil (ocean forest) and nutes. I heard that the fox farm soil has enough nutrients in it already so i wouldnt have to feed it for the first 2-3 weeks.
2. Should i change my light once the plant starts to flower. I have both MH and HPS bulbs. I will add in a link at the bottom for the exact setup for more clarification on everything. Lighting has been my biggest problem with starting my grow. I am still unsure of all the numbers and everything. I heard that you need 6500K of lumens for veg and 2700K for flowering or the other way around.

Thanks again everyone for all the replies, i will definitely post a link to my grow journal once my adventure begins! :)
 

aCiDjEsUs

Well-Known Member
Hey

For the nutes, you are correct, ffof has some stuff already in it so you need anything for the first 2-3 weeks, and then you can start them off with 1/4 strength of what it says on the bottle. For autos you just want to use some of their Big Bloom threw out the grow and Tiger Bloom when they start to flower, I don't use Grow Big because there's not a lot of veg. growth. I always feed like that water, water, feed, water water, feed..but that's just me I think everyone has their own schedule.

For the lights, you want to use MH for veg. and HPS for flowering, 6500K is for veging your plant and 2700K is for flowering.

Color temperature is a characteristic of visible light that has important applications in lighting, photography, videography, publishing, manufacturing, astrophysics, horticulture, and other fields. The color temperature of a light source is the temperature of an ideal black body radiator that radiates light of comparable hue to that of the light source. In practice, color temperature is only meaningful for light sources that do in fact correspond somewhat closely to the radiation of some black body, i.e. those on a line from reddish/orange via yellow and more or less white to blueish white; it does not make sense to speak of the color temperature of e.g. a green or a purple light. Color temperature is conventionally stated in the unit of absolute temperature, the kelvin, having the unit symbol K.
Color temperatures over 5,000K are called cool colors (blueish white), while lower color temperatures (2,700–3,000 K) are called warm colors (yellowish white through red).[SUP][1][/SUP] This relation, however, is a psychological one in contrast to the physical relation implied by Wien's displacement law, according to which the spectral peak is shifted towards shorter wavelengths (resulting in a more blueish white) for higher temperatures.

The color temperature of the electromagnetic radiation emitted from an ideal black body is defined as its surface temperature in kelvins, or alternatively in mired (micro-reciprocal kelvins).[SUP][3][/SUP] This permits the definition of a standard by which light sources are compared.

To the extent that a hot surface emits thermal radiation but is not an ideal black body radiator, the color temperature of the light is not the actual temperature of the surface. An incandescent lamp's light is thermal radiation and the bulb approximates an ideal black body radiator, so its color temperature is essentially the temperature of the filament.
Many other light sources, such as fluorescent lamps, emit light primarily by processes other than thermal radiation. This means the emitted radiation does not follow the form of a black body spectrum. These sources are assigned what is known as a correlated color temperature (CCT). CCT is the color temperature of a black body radiator which to human color perception most closely matches the light from the lamp. Because such an approximation is not required for incandescent light, the CCT for an incandescent light is simply its unadjusted temperature, derived from the comparison to a black body radiator.

View attachment 2432087
 

Old number nine

New Member
lol ive never grown an auto that was a hermie, wtf are you on about? And its not a good idea to transplant autos if you dont HAVE TO because they flower automatically, if you transplant when they are flowering then you can reduce yeilds. So, would you recommend transplanting a flowering regular plant? no, its not recommended at all, so dont transplant autos after then first three weeks. If you can go straight into 2gals then do it it will save a job later and roots will grow as big as they can
 

Old number nine

New Member
lol ive never grown an auto that was a hermie, wtf are you on about? And its not a good idea to transplant autos if you dont HAVE TO because they flower automatically, if you transplant when they are flowering then you can reduce yeilds. So, would you recommend transplanting a flowering regular plant? no, its not recommended at all, so dont transplant autos after then first three weeks. If you can go straight into 2gals then do it it will save a job later and roots will grow as big as they can
 

Old number nine

New Member
See attached file.
The one in the middle ,pot fell on it
Lay covered up for hour.
Transplanting,well it was completely
Bareroot when I uncovered it.
White widow auto strain
Spread some clonex on it,stuck it in a 4
Gallon when the others 5 inches tall
This one looked was two inches tall.
As you can see it almost caught up
With the other ones.leaves are twice
The size.i read all this stuff about trans
Planting ,well as you can see.
They are starting their bud run late.
6 and half weeks old ,the runt is coming up from behind .you can tell it's also been
Topped once.90 % of what you see
Too two weeks for the runt to get with
2 inch of catching her sisters.
1-was completely bare rooted once
2-topped once
3-defoliated except for two sets of nodes
4 leaves and topped.
Two weeks Later,well look.
The little bitch is now saying
Bring it on.
 

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