When can i start Nutrients again?

Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
There is no set of rules per say … begin bloom only once plant has begun to work through excess nitrogen maybe a couple more straight watering only - THEN you can begin bloom only feeding.

If you are running TAP water you may already have the calcium/magnesium aspect covered as most city water has it already PLUS your nutes have it. ( label )
 
Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Ohighyall said:
Dry fertilizer wouldn't make the soil to hot for seedlings?
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It could - but a standard off the shelf potting mix ( not miracle grow ) Happy frog / light warrior / etc.

It is ridiculously easy to start a seedling - start it in a solo cup of mild potting soil. Thats it.

Once it gets up a good size - transplant it.
You will have a ready to use plant with an established rootball regardless if it is an auto or photo plant.
 
Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
This is recycled FFOF ( ocean forest ) soil from finished harvest. I just save what i can from containers and put in solo cups for new germination plants - it still has nutes in it . I try to waste nothing.

IMG_3457.jpeg
 
Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
If you have a good amended bagged soil with a good amount of nutrients in it already - you just have to water it …. Literally.

That plant will pull what it wants at its own pace instead of you trying to “ make it feed “. Most good soils can run a plant up for weeks. Autos only needs an average of a 100 days and most of that was fed on that bagged soil alone.

Remember its a plant - nothing special.
Treat it like a tomato plant or houseplant.

It is way too much trouble trying to guess “ bottle “ amounts of each bottle to find a balanced feed when the Soil it is in is already doing. Plus those are synthetic products which salts up your medium causing even more headaches.
 
Beeswings

Beeswings

Well-Known Member
Budzbuddha said:
It could - but a standard off the shelf potting mix ( not miracle grow ) Happy frog / light warrior / etc.

It is ridiculously easy to start a seedling - start it in a solo cup of mild potting soil. Thats it.

Once it gets up a good size - transplant it.
You will have a ready to use plant with an established rootball regardless if it is an auto or photo plant.
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I have to disagree with the easy to start a seedling. Temp, moisture, and humidity after germ have to be right, it can be really hard in the winter time in Minnesota.
 
Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Beeswings said:
I have to disagree with the easy to start a seedling. Temp, moisture, and humidity after germ have to be right, it can be really hard in the winter time in Minnesota.
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Not sure why you would have issues germinating there as i am sure other growers there do it. If you have good ambient temps indoor ( enough for you lets say ) then you can germinate. Cannabis can still grow in 50° - 60° temps at the coldest and your local area over there have 60% RH which can still germinate.

Your heated house would make new starts possible , how is that hard ?

You can even implement seedling heat mats.

IMG_4377.jpeg
 
G

Grower1974

Member
Budzbuddha said:
Not sure why you would have issues germinating there as i am sure other growers there do it. If you have good ambient temps indoor ( enough for you lets say ) then you can germinate. Cannabis can still grow in 50° - 60° temps at the coldest
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Agreed. I germinate anywhere between 58-70F. When they sprout, they see anywhere from 64-75F, and 50-65% RH. Never had issues.

Seedling starter mix, small starter pots, light water each day for 2-3 weeks. Done.
 
E

ec121

Well-Known Member
Ohighyall said:
I do have perlite in as well

I mix up a 5 gallon bucket
add 2 ml armor si
2.5 ml calmag
2.5 micro, grow and bloom
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1/1/1 ratio of of micro, grow, and bloom is for transition. Once the plants throw pistils, you need to switch to a ratio of 2/1/3 of Micro, Grow, Bloom.

When using General Hydroponics Flora Series 3-part, the proper NER (nutrient element ratio) is:

1/1/1 (M/G/B) mild veg (for early veg)
2/3/1 (M/G/B) aggressive veg (for mid and late veg)
2/1/3 (M/G/B) flower

How many ml's of each part would vary based on maturity of the plant (get an EC pen), but you want to keep the ratios correct so that the plant is getting the proper nutrition. So you doing 2.5/2.5/2.5 ml's of each part means you're doing a 1/1/1 ratio and the plant is not getting enough micronutrients and it is not getting enough bloom nutrients relative to the other part.

There is a formula that people use called Lucas which is 1/0/2 (M/G/B) from start to finish with an increase in EC as the plant matures. So basically it would use double the amount of Bloom for each part you use of Micro and wouldn't use the Grow bottle at all.

Whichever you do, you can't eliminate the Micro bottle. And always make sure you're thoroughly (and slowly) fertigating the plant until at least 10% (but more like 25%) comes out the bottom in runoff. This will help push out the salts in the medium.

Since you're using GH 3-part and some coco, on your next grow you should ditch the Promix and grow in coco or coco/perlite. Then you can feed plants multiple times a day and get monster growth.
 
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Ohighyall

Member
ec121 said:
1/1/1 ratio of of micro, grow, and bloom is for transition. Once the plants throw pistils, you need to switch to a ratio of 2/1/3 of Micro, Grow, Bloom.

When using General Hydroponics Flora Series 3-part, the proper NER (nutrient element ratio) is:

1/1/1 (M/G/B) mild veg (for early veg)
2/3/1 (M/G/B) aggressive veg (for mid and late veg)
2/1/3 (M/G/B) flower

How many ml's of each part would vary based on maturity of the plant (get an EC pen), but you want to keep the ratios correct so that the plant is getting the proper nutrition. So you doing 2.5/2.5/2.5 ml's of each part means you're doing a 1/1/1 ratio and the plant is not getting enough micronutrients and it is not getting enough bloom nutrients relative to the other part.

There is a formula that people use called Lucas which is 1/0/2 (M/G/B) from start to finish with an increase in EC as the plant matures. So basically it would use double the amount of Bloom for each part you use of Micro and wouldn't use the Grow bottle at all.

Whichever you do, you can't eliminate the Micro bottle. And always make sure you're thoroughly (and slowly) fertigating the plant until at least 10% (but more like 25%) comes out the bottom in runoff. This will help push out the salts in the medium.

Since you're using GH 3-part and some coco, on your next grow you should ditch the Promix and grow in coco or coco/perlite. Then you can feed plants multiple times a day and get monster growth.
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Thank you for breaking this down for me.i didn't want to overdo the nutrients since the plants are autos. That's all I kept reading....how less is more when it came to feeding. I was actually contemplating growing in straight coco, so thanks for that too
 
E

ec121

Well-Known Member
Ohighyall said:
Thank you for breaking this down for me.i didn't want to overdo the nutrients since the plants are autos. That's all I kept reading....how less is more when it came to feeding. I was actually contemplating growing in straight coco, so thanks for that too
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You don't want to overdo nutrients regardless of what the plant is, but General Hydroponics is a nutrient line for a variety of crops. What this means is their EC guidelines (e.g., how many ml's of each part to use) are generally going to be on the higher side because tomatoes, cucumbers, and other popular crops, take double+ the EC than cannabis uses and more people using their products grow those crops.

This is why the ratio of parts M/G/B are given and it is up to you, the grower of your specific crop, to know the total EC to give to your plants.

This is why you should get an EC pen. But in general, you want to be around the 1.0 to 1.2EC in mid and late veg and raise it to 1.2 to 1.4 in flower and "listen" to the plant.
 
G

Grower1974

Member
ec121 said:
This is why you should get an EC pen. But in general, you want to be around the 1.0 to 1.2EC in mid and late veg and raise it to 1.2 to 1.4 in flower and "listen" to the plant.
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My plants starve at anything under 1.4 EC LOL. I try to maintain 1.8-2.4 through the entire grow.
 
E

ec121

Well-Known Member
Grower1974 said:
My plants starve at anything under 1.4 EC LOL. I try to maintain 1.8-2.4 through the entire grow.
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What medium do you grow in? I'm in straight coco and fertigating several times a day, but I have used those EC levels in peat before with a dryback schedule.

That said, you can certainly train plants to use energy toward producing more and more sugars to accept higher and higher EC levels.
 
G

Grower1974

Member
ec121 said:
What medium do you grow in? I'm in straight coco and fertigating several times a day, but I have used those EC levels in peat before with a dryback schedule.

That said, you can certainly train plants to use energy toward producing more and more sugars to accept higher and higher EC levels.
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Ahhh. Makes sense. I use hot soil in general. First 4-5 weeks EC is above 2.8 just from the soil itself. After it’s been depleted down to 2.0, I start additional feeding 2X per week to maintain.
 
backwood_boss

backwood_boss

Well-Known Member
Budzbuddha said:
Not sure why you would have issues germinating there as i am sure other growers there do it. If you have good ambient temps indoor ( enough for you lets say ) then you can germinate. Cannabis can still grow in 50° - 60° temps at the coldest and your local area over there have 60% RH which can still germinate.

Your heated house would make new starts possible , how is that hard ?

You can even implement seedling heat mats.

View attachment 5373043
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Lmfao that looks like my forecast for the week. Wonder if your my neighbor budz
 
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