Will regalia burn pistils in flower

This company has the worst customer service ever. No one ever answers no one emails you back ever. Their product is almost a hundred dollars a gallon. But no one can answer if this product burns or discolors the flowers. Maybe someone here knows
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
What are you trying to control ??? Pm ??

Cuz you have a simple solution for it , in your fridge.
 
Milk? Baking Soda? None of these work. Which is why I went OMRI with Regalia. Other things like Cease etc work. I am dealing with a light case. I think its because I have treated with Regalia early on. Things like Green Cure work too, but I still havent found a dose that wont burn the crap out of the pistils. Maybe someone can correct me, but I have by observation found that when the Pistils get burned early on, they dont gain as much mass as they would have? Can anyone second that or offer additional advice.
 

Warpedpassage

Well-Known Member
If you are worried about pistils burning, apply it as a soil drench instead of a foliar. The product works systemically and not as a contact spray. I'm having good results with it so far.
Wow, it works on pm sytemically by drenching medium!!!! thats pretty cool!!
What kind of doasge do you use for drench and how often to keep pm at bay?
Also are using coco or soil?
Thanks.
 

waterproof808

Well-Known Member
Wow, it works on pm sytemically by drenching medium!!!! thats pretty cool!!
What kind of doasge do you use for drench and how often to keep pm at bay?
Also are using coco or soil?
Thanks.
It is a translaminar fungicide not a systemic, there is a difference. Application rate is 10-30ml per gallon. I've been doing roughly 2 tbsp per gal for foliar and my plants are doing great with no signs of PM or mold.
If you have access to giant knotweed you could easily make your own.
 

Warpedpassage

Well-Known Member
Many thanks for clarifying. Are you able to spray during late flowering? I was hoping to drench instead of spraying.
 
It is a translaminar fungicide not a systemic, there is a difference. Application rate is 10-30ml per gallon. I've been doing roughly 2 tbsp per gal for foliar and my plants are doing great with no signs of PM or mold.
If you have access to giant knotweed you could easily make your own.
Active ingredient is called "Resveratrol" same stuff in anti aging beauty products. You can easily find it in bulk powder form online. If someone is courageous the only other step would be figuring out the rate of resveratrol dry powder to H20. You can also of course use giant knotweed and make a tea, at the end of the day resveratrol is the active ingredient that allows giant knotweed and regalia to prevent Fubgus spores so well.

In a University of California Davis Agriculture School study they used regalia alone, regalia with another OMRI biofungicide, chemical fungicide, and no fungicide at all.

To my recollection crops with just regalia lost around 10% of harvest. Crops with both regalia and a second BioFungicide lost around 5% total yield. While crops without any lost about 30-40% total yield. Those crops with chemical Fungicide lost 5% or less. I'm really giving a guess on the numbers here, I'm not interested in finding this article again. The point I wanted to make is about the efficacy of Regalia alone. It is a seriously great product and with use of other biofungicides can provide almost identical protection to that of a chemical Fungicides like Eagle 20.

This company has the worst customer service ever. No one ever answers no one emails you back ever. Their product is almost a hundred dollars a gallon. But no one can answer if this product burns or discolors the flowers. Maybe someone here knows
It is OMRI rated but I would never put it on flowering plants loaded with pistils, just personal choice. Maybe isolate one plant and try it if you are concerned isolate a lesser plant and see for yourself I'd love to know answer.

I personally don't even use compost tea sprays on plants with pistils and opt for root feeding compost teas.
 
Last edited:

R.Raider

Well-Known Member
I know this thread is a couple years old but does anyone know if this stuff can be used to fight or prevent root rot in hydroponics?
 

waterproof808

Well-Known Member
I know this thread is a couple years old but does anyone know if this stuff can be used to fight or prevent root rot in hydroponics?
I dont think it would help much for root rot. Usually that is caused by your water temps being too warm. Are you running a sterile rez or adding bennies?
 

R.Raider

Well-Known Member
I dont think it would help much for root rot. Usually that is caused by your water temps being too warm. Are you running a sterile rez or adding bennies?
My water temps are fine. I moved to a new place a couple years ago and now I can't get away from Fusarium(lab confirmed) if my life depended on it. I've started from scratch and cleaned and disinfected the shit out of everything several times now. I've tried sterile and several different kinds of bennies. Someone recommended I try "Prestop" the other day so I ordered some of that today. See what happens I guess.
 

bhd!

Active Member
My water temps are fine. I moved to a new place a couple years ago and now I can't get away from Fusarium(lab confirmed) if my life depended on it. I've started from scratch and cleaned and disinfected the shit out of everything several times now. I've tried sterile and several different kinds of bennies. Someone recommended I try "Prestop" the other day so I ordered some of that today. See what happens I guess.
Either start using UC Roots or adding chlorine to your mix. The easiest way to run hydro is sterile in my opinion.
 
Top