Would 4 Vero 29s cover a 32"x32" tent?

Rapidled claims it can run 3-5 36v Veros that's why I bought the driver. But if you add up the V it exceeds it. Now I'm confused. Also dimming it takes away volts?

I'm seeing 37.2 at 1050ma. 36.2 at 1400ma at 25C so assuming temp is 40C a little voltage droop should have it hitting 36. I think it will work.

Ok I guess there's no harm in buying 5 cobs worse case scenario it won't fire and I'll go back to 4. Thanks for the help guy's this stuff gives me a headache some times.

Maybe I'm reading the wrong charts but this one says 37.2v @1400ma and 36.5v @1050. Anyway, I guess we'll find out!!

just a PSA people should prob distinguish which of the vero 29s they are using as there are 3 different versions of the gen 7 (apart from older gens) - so sayng "vero29" is pretty much the equivalent of saying "i use cree" or "i use clu048" or "i use cobs"- which isnt super helpful to the newbies

CobKits said:

just a PSA people should prob distinguish which of the vero 29s they are using as there are 3 different versions of the gen 7 (apart from older gens) - so sayng "vero29" is pretty much the equivalent of saying "i use cree" or "i use clu048" or "i use cobs"- which isnt
super helpful to the newbies

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Thanks but I literly never understand what you're saying. Everyone of your responses leaves me more clueless.

vero B
vero C
vero D

alll different, check it out

Krytend said:

Thanks but I literly never understand what you're saying. Everyone of your responses leaves me more clueless.

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There are 3 versions of the Vero 29 Gen7.

The reason for the different versions is that a COB is a bunch of really small diodes all under one phosphor layer (COB literally means Chip On Board). All these little chips are set up in parallel strings. Depending on how they're wired, different voltages and drive currents are needed.

There are 3 versions you'll commonly see. They are B, C and D. This is important because you need to make sure your constant current driver can handle the voltage draw.

The 'D' version is technically the lowest power version. It runs at a Forward Voltage (Fv) of 38.7v at 2100ma - this is the "typical" (manufacturer suggested) drive current. This means each COB uses just over 80w

The B version runs at 52v at a drive current of 1800ma (typically under-driven at 1400ma or 1750ma). At 1400ma it pulls about 72 watts and at 1750ma it pulls approximately 91 watts. This is more or less the most common version.

The C version uses 69v at 1710ma. The more typical drive current is 1400ma. At 1400ma this little guy pulls about 96w and is the most powerful Vero. You can drive it at 1750ma too, but it's not generally suggested. This tends to be the most expensive version.


This doesn't touch on the issues of electrical efficiency (lower current = more light per watt used) out the thermal efficiency (cooler chips = more light)


As a perspective check, I run 4 Vero 29 Gen7 3500k 'D'; 2 per driver on a Meanwell HLG-240-C2100B. That driver is rated to handle up to 3 of the 'D' version.

This gives me 325w of COB and more or less maxes out my 2x4x5 tent - meaning adding more LEDs will not realistically boost what I can produce without further supplementing CO2.

You're dealing with 1sq/ft less than me, so 4 Vero 29 LEDs will be enough for that space, regardless of the version. That is, unless you want to start adding CO2.

Danielson999 said:

Maybe I'm reading the wrong charts but this one says 37.2v @1400ma and 36.5v @1050. Anyway, I guess we'll find out!!

View attachment 3990734

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You're reading it right and those are the right part numbers but there must have been a revision since then. The current revision is K, shows same output, slightly reduced voltage and slightly improved LPW numbers.

Rahz said:

You're reading it right and those are the right part numbers but there must have been a revision since then. The current revision is K, shows same output, slightly reduced voltage and slightly improved LPW numbers.

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Right, so he should make sure he knows what revision he's buying because it could make the difference between all 5 working or not. It's also likely that some shops don't even sell revision K and only have older stock.

I'm gonna add citizen 1214's to my existing 1212 build and that will increase the lumen-output by 25%! I was gonna get veros but I don't like the higher voltages. At that point I'd get the citi 1818 or cxm22

http://www.rapidled.com/bridgelux-vero29-3000k-90-cri-d/

5 of these, I feel like selecting the parts are Harding then actual building the damn thing.

Rahz said:

You're reading it right and those are the right part numbers but there must have been a revision since then. The current revision is K, shows same output, slightly reduced voltage and slightly improved LPW numbers.

Click to expand...

interesting ill try to get my hands on some and test in the sphere

ZeroTrousers said:

There are 3 versions of the Vero 29 Gen7.

The reason for the different versions is that a COB is a bunch of really small diodes all under one phosphor layer (COB literally means Chip On Board). All these little chips are set up in parallel strings. Depending on how they're wired, different voltages and drive currents are needed.

There are 3 versions you'll commonly see. They are B, C and D. This is important because you need to make sure your constant current driver can handle the voltage draw.

The 'D' version is technically the lowest power version. It runs at a Forward Voltage (Fv) of 38.7v at 2100ma - this is the "typical" (manufacturer suggested) drive current. This means each COB uses just over 80w

The B version runs at 52v at a drive current of 1800ma (typically under-driven at 1400ma or 1750ma). At 1400ma it pulls about 72 watts and at 1750ma it pulls approximately 91 watts. This is more or less the most common version.

The C version uses 69v at 1710ma. The more typical drive current is 1400ma. At 1400ma this little guy pulls about 96w and is the most powerful Vero. You can drive it at 1750ma too, but it's not generally suggested. This tends to be the most expensive version.


This doesn't touch on the issues of electrical efficiency (lower current = more light per watt used) out the thermal efficiency (cooler chips = more light)


As a perspective check, I run 4 Vero 29 Gen7 3500k 'D'; 2 per driver on a Meanwell HLG-240-C2100B. That driver is rated to handle up to 3 of the 'D' version.

This gives me 325w of COB and more or less maxes out my 2x4x5 tent - meaning adding more LEDs will not realistically boost what I can produce without further supplementing CO2.

You're dealing with 1sq/ft less than me, so 4 Vero 29 LEDs will be enough for that space, regardless of the version. That is, unless you want to start adding CO2.

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My driver is 1400ma 4 cobs would put me at 200watts. I'm only one sq foot less than you but 125watts less than your set up. Doesn't seem like enough ?

CobKits said:

interesting ill try to get my hands on some and test in the sphere

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Thanks I'm inresting in your findings.

CobKits said:

interesting ill try to get my hands on some and test in the sphere

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Since the flux remains the same I'm not sure the chips are revised. It's possible the electrical characteristics as just documented more precisely. I sent an email to Bridgelux. They don't have the best record getting back in touch via email but we'll see if they respond.

Krytend said:

My driver is 1400ma 4 cobs would put me at 200watts. I'm only one sq foot less than you but 125watts less than your set up. Doesn't seem like enough ?

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Depending on the version, you are also under-driving them, which means that you're getting slightly more light for every watt.

Rahz said:

Since the flux remains the same I'm not sure the chips are revised. It's possible the electrical characteristics as just documented more precisely. I sent an email to Bridgelux. They don't have the best record getting back in touch via email but we'll see if they respond.

Click to expand...

i dont think the big companies nerd out like we do on such things