Your Opinions Are Wanted

i have a 24”x36”x7’ space.
I’m growing autos for my second run. After my girl is done. Id like personal experience on how you ran your autos? I’m not in to lighting debates so let’s keep that to a minimum! Same with hydro vs dirt ! Piss off with that. I’m looking to see what people that grow great autos do! If you could I’d like to see links to great auto grows that have a decent amount of information that pertains to autos. Specifics like mg/L of ferts, NPK ratios, ppm, ph, temperatures. Stuff like that are what I’m searching for.

Way2-High said:

i have a 24”x36”x7’ space.
I’m growing autos for my second run. After my girl is done. Id like personal experience on how you ran your autos? I’m not in to lighting debates so let’s keep that to a minimum! Same with hydro vs dirt ! Piss off with that garbage! I’m looking to see what people that grow great autos do! If you could I’d like to see links to great auto grows that have a decent amount of information that pertains to autos. Specifics like mg/L of ferts, NPK ratios, ppm, ph, temperatures. Stuff like that are what I’m searching for.

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I always go 1/4 on nutes to begin with in Coco. My personal experience with ffof was it was too hot for my autos in the seedling stage

I go from seed to party cup for 2 weeks and then to a ten gallon fabric pot and feed the same as photos I never train them and get 8 oz to a lb Some of my friends grow in 45 gallon pots and grow them huge

Personally I use a DWC setup for my autos, and they routinely get as big/bigger as the auto's that are in my profile pic. I never top/FIM my autos, but I do LST them quite a bit, but nothing intense, I just bend over the main and tallest limbs over little by little every day as they hit late veg to allow more light to hit all of the budsites surrounding the main cola, which usually produces an affect similar to that of FIM'ing. In DWC you can easily make autos grow the size of regular photo's as long as they don't get any severe issues, as auto's can be stunted more easily and don't have the time to recover like photo strains. Max nutrient dosage I make it up to with auto's is 1/2 strength, although it's not common to even make it that high up the nutrient dosage latter. It more oftenly lands around the 1/4 strength area of bottle feeding recommendations.

*EDIT* My ppm's rarely go above 750-850 in my auto grows, ph is the same for photo strains in hydro which is 5.8, though I generally allow mine to drift between corrections for a wider range of element availability. Light schedule of 18/6 or 20/4 seems to work best for them. You can apply bloom nutrients earlier on to 'encourage' them to enter full bloom sooner than later, but this isn't to say you can make them bloom, you can just help them gear into full bloom a few days or maybe even a week faster at the expense of less vegetative growth. I use 5 gallon buckets, although some say 2.5 gals work fine. 5 gallons will obviously produce larger plants. I use Floranova Grow for veggy. I use GH Armor Si throughout the entire grow. When the plant is done stretching, or if I'm trying to encourage bloom while the plant is still in stretch, I begin adding the Floranova Bloom, along with very small amounts of Liquid Kool Bloom as not to burn them (about 1ml a gallon the first week of bloom nutes, move on up to 2ml a gallon when the plant's buds begin to swell, about 1-2 weeks after stretch is over. I switch from LKB to Dry Kool Bloom the last 2 weeks of growth, and use 1 week after that to just give plain PH'd water. Hope I could be of help

Running homemade peat mixes I routinely fed up to 950 ppm. I could have gone higher I believe. Feed/water/water. Used Lucas formula with Jungle Juice after the first month. Accidentally topped one doing my regulars and it recovered fairly well. Had to move them inside when it started freezing early (Alaska) and the 12/12 really extended the flower period. Probably a good 3 weeks.

thanks hotrod these ? help me with my up coming duties!