Sixstring's Cob Build

bri77

Well-Known Member
With the other way you get better structural strength, the aluminum will cool the heat sink better, each 'bar' will have a much neater, slimer profile.

Annnndd.. none of that will make any practical difference to your grow. Probably just my OCD kicking in. I honestly thought you'd say it was just like that because you were still working on the spacing. Not in a million years would I put them the "wrong" way round. It'd be like getting in the back seat to drive a car, lol.

Having said that, Im on my first grow and you're some sort of one-plant jedi master. Seriously man,those plants are just gorgeous. I'll try to grow a big ass plant next round, must be much more satisifiy than a bunch of smaller plants.
 

sixstring2112

Well-Known Member
With the other way you get better structural strength, the aluminum will cool the heat sink better, each 'bar' will have a much neater, slimer profile.

Annnndd.. none of that will make any practical difference to your grow. Probably just my OCD kicking in. I honestly thought you'd say it was just like that because you were still working on the spacing. Not in a million years would I put them the "wrong" way round. It'd be like getting in the back seat to drive a car, lol.

Having said that, Im on my first grow and you're some sort of one-plant jedi master. Seriously man,those plants are just gorgeous. I'll try to grow a big ass plant next round, must be much more satisifiy than a bunch of smaller plants.
Yeah i do bigger plants mostly to stay within my plant count numbers but also so we can just harvest just a few plants a week and keep the cycle going without being too far over weight.our med laws here are a joke.
 

itsmetobyt

Active Member
yeah buddy. Green Gene championed the 90 deg LEDIL angelinas back in the day, so check out his vids too for comments on their performance.
I am going to copy and paste a response that I sent to someone via email this morning. check it out and see if it applies to you. Any others that read it, make sure my numbers and calcs are correct. my feelings wont be hurt to make edits or corrections.

I would recommend a universal bar type system. I am not including shipping in these price estimates, or quantity discounts .

I am going to recommend a slightly higher drive current setup for you to minimize upfront costs while preserving efficiency and flexibility to dim later for higher efficiency once you have enough bars to cover the space fully. This spec will cost you more on heatsinks upfront, but you will get an extra 50w per bar with this setup.

BAR MODEL 250w each wall dissipation @ 51-52% efficient for 130 PAR watts per bar. (120 heat watts per bar)

(4) Cree cxb3590 36volt version : mix of 3500k, 4000k, a couple 5k total. top bins (see incl spread sheet of top bin codes)
suppliers: Kingbrite, Cutter Electronics, Pacific Light Concepts. not sure of current coupon codes, but check!
best price with a discount code from pacific light concepts is $43.02 each

(1) meanwell HLG 240h-c1750b : <--- get the b version here, so you can dim for higher efficiency later runs 4 cobs at 62 watts each
suppliers: Bravo Electronics, Mouser, Online Components.com ($75ea)

(1) 30-34" heatsink for active cooled(with a computer fan on top of each bar), or go 42-48" for a passive setup, heres the math on the heatsink based on attached spreadsheet titled (HeatsinkUSA)
the 5.886" www.heatsinkusa.com profile has 40.31 in2 of surface area per one inch of length. So to handle the 120 heat watts passively, the bars will have to be pretty long at 42-48" ($75 per bar)

(4) Ideal cree cob holders part# 50-2303CR (newark.com) ($2.50 ea)
thermal paste

4-40 or 6-32 mounting screws (amazon)

a bunch of 18 gauge solid core wire

Wago connectors for easy connections on DC led & AC plug ends. 222-412 lever nuts ($15 per 50 pack)

So assuming you buy a bunch of wire, connectors, thermal paste and screws, the cost of the components per bar will be approx: $332

Each bar will be the equivalent of a 342watt HPS single end.

ROI Calculations

Each bar will save you 92 watts at the wall over HPS. And 314 BTU of heat per hour over HPS.
Per day savings in a 12/12 flowering room will be (.092 kW)(12 hr) = 1.104 KwH savings per day per bar. @ your rate?? assuming 15 cents/KwH
$0.1656 savings per bar per day. or $5 per month per light over HPS, ($60 per year savings , per bar over HPS)

Lets assume a highend 600w HPS with a nice big air cooled reflector and a digital ballast, hortilux bulb costs $400-500
Two of these bars will crush it since they are equivalent to 684w of HPS, but their cost is $332ea x2 = $664

At $164 price difference you are looking at ROI in 2.73 years based off of only electrical savings, not very impressive right?
when you factor in HVAC savings of 3768 BTU per day, 113,040 BTU per month, 1,356,480 BTU per year, things start making sense.
(impossible to calc BTU savings without knowing your HVAC system and environmental factors)

In closing, I don't know your skill level as a grower, but I can pull around 0.88 grams per watt with 600w HPS. (528g per run)
I can pull 1.5 GPW ++ all day long with cree cobs. If I had these bars, I would estimate 375g per bar per 8-9 wk run. or (750g per pair of bars)
So when you factor in increased production of an extra half pound of bud per pair of bars, all the sudden these LEDs start paying themselves off very very quickly.

I hope this helps and wasnt too confusing. let me know if you have any more questions.
First off thank you for all the information that you have offered here. I am still trying to wrap my head around how all this led stuff works. I have been reading for weeks and this has by far been the most informative. However after watching a video of a rep from environmentallights explaining how to choose the correct driver, I am somewhat confused with the combination of components listed here. I may be completely wrong and if I am please feel free to set me straight. In the video the rep stated when choosing a driver for a given set up of cobs, you take the cob voltage (36v) and multiply by amp driven (1.75) and divide by .80 = the correct driver.....36 x 1.75 / .8 x 4cobs = 315. So wouldn't the HLG320-C1750 be needed instead of the 240?
I just want to get this right the first time. Thanks for your time!
 

sixstring2112

Well-Known Member
First off thank you for all the information that you have offered here. I am still trying to wrap my head around how all this led stuff works. I have been reading for weeks and this has by far been the most informative. However after watching a video of a rep from environmentallights explaining how to choose the correct driver, I am somewhat confused with the combination of components listed here. I may be completely wrong and if I am please feel free to set me straight. In the video the rep stated when choosing a driver for a given set up of cobs, you take the cob voltage (36v) and multiply by amp driven (1.75) and divide by .80 = the correct driver.....36 x 1.75 / .8 x 4cobs = 315. So wouldn't the HLG320-C1750 be needed instead of the 240?
I just want to get this right the first time. Thanks for your time!
You should go on youtube and search @Growmau5 and watch his videos,part 1 thru 7 then you will be much better informed on all this diy jazz ;)
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
First off thank you for all the information that you have offered here. I am still trying to wrap my head around how all this led stuff works. I have been reading for weeks and this has by far been the most informative. However after watching a video of a rep from environmentallights explaining how to choose the correct driver, I am somewhat confused with the combination of components listed here. I may be completely wrong and if I am please feel free to set me straight. In the video the rep stated when choosing a driver for a given set up of cobs, you take the cob voltage (36v) and multiply by amp driven (1.75) and divide by .80 = the correct driver.....36 x 1.75 / .8 x 4cobs = 315. So wouldn't the HLG320-C1750 be needed instead of the 240?
I just want to get this right the first time. Thanks for your time!
You want to run 4 3590's on a 1750ma on a single driver right?
I personally have 8, on 2 drivers. So I can guarantee it works.

HLG-240H-C1750B is what you want.
36x1.75= 62-64watts. X 4= 248-256. It's one of the best setups to utilize all the driver has. For efficiency, that's where your "X.80" factor is coming in. They suggest finding a setup that fills closer to 80% of the drivers total capacity. But it works beautifully in the hlg240-c1750 drivers.
P.s.- get the "B" version drivers so you can add a 100k Potentiometer to the white and blue dimming leads to manually dim them with ease!
 

itsmetobyt

Active Member
You want to run 4 3590's on a 1750ma on a single driver right?Tha
I personally have 8, on 2 drivers. So I can guarantee it works.

HLG-240H-C1750B is what you want.
36x1.75= 62-64watts. X 4= 248-256. It's one of the best setups to utilize all the driver has. For efficiency, that's where your "X.80" factor is coming in. They suggest finding a setup that fills closer to 80% of the drivers total capacity. But it works beautifully in the hlg240-c1750 drivers.
P.s.- get the "B" version drivers so you can add a 100k Potentiometer to the white and blue dimming leads to manually dim them with ease!
Thanks a ton! I think all this is finally starting to click. Time to go shopping.
 

sixstring2112

Well-Known Member
Holy shit man how the hell can you get soo many? I would have to save for 2 years or more to see that....:shock:

lol i actually had a few more on the way after the pic but yeah its gettin to be a pricey transition.just gotta break it up into a few seperate purchases.its about a pound haha.

just about got this 72v fixture done.just need to mount the dimmers and find a 240v power cord.i robbed a power outlet off one of my old dead digi ballast and mounted it to the rails.edit for the pic
20160828_230344.jpg
 

Uberknot

Well-Known Member
lol i actually had a few more on the way after the pic but yeah its gettin to be a pricey transition.just gotta break it up into a few seperate purchases.its about a pound haha.

just about got this 72v fixture done.just need to mount the dimmers and find a 240v power cord.i robbed a power outlet off one of my old dead digi ballast and mounted it to the rails.edit for the pic
View attachment 3768264

I don't have the luxury of that :P looks fun though.
 

sixstring2112

Well-Known Member
@Growmau5 can you give me any advice/info on how to hack this big fucker.
Mars 2 - 1600w (actual draw 760w)
I watched your hack video but this sucker has a few more parts to her lol.
I pulled out a power supply but there aint no writing on it anywhere.looks like they all have at least 2 sets of leads,some have 3 sets (the drivers).fans are 12 v 0.30A.fuggin pigtails everywhere,and lots of extra thermal paste haha.
Should i.just bust out a multi meter and check the leads? If so i would like some guidance on that as well.i know i know,noobie
 

Attachments

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
@Growmau5 can you give me any advice/info on how to hack this big fucker.
Mars 2 - 1600w (actual draw 760w)
I watched your hack video but this sucker has a few more parts to her lol.
I pulled out a power supply but there aint no writing on it anywhere.looks like they all have at least 2 sets of leads,some have 3 sets (the drivers).fans are 12 v 0.30A.fuggin pigtails everywhere,and lots of extra thermal paste haha.
Should i.just bust out a multi meter and check the leads? If so i would like some guidance on that as well.i know i know,noobie
@REALSTYLES would be a great resource for this.
 
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