Best way to boost terp and frost production organically?

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Northwood

Well-Known Member
I can't recommend any "magic" trick that might boast production of terpenes or resin, but the most obvious thing is to keep the environmental parameters and nutrient availability to your plant throughout its flowering period at optimum levels for your plants to live up to their genetic potential. That can mean lots of light, especially spectrum in the further red zone upon flower, but with way more photons it received before the switch to 12/12. A significant increase in light intensity may help a bit with the "stretch" issue as well. But yes, blast them and take them to their optimal VPD level just to the point where they keep their stomata open all day. That will increase "resin production" I guess.

Terpenes are volatile fellows, and will leave your plants faster if the temperature is higher, the humidity lower, and light more intense when growing. But it's really in the dry and cure that terpenes get lost the most in the cycle if you have your growing environment reasonably dialed in. Improving the after-harvest drying and processing of flower is probably the easiest way to getting better at preserving terpenes.

And any site or whatever that promises to influence the trichome density on your calyxes by selling some "organic" liquid thing is likely snake oil IMO.
 
Richard Drysift

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
1. Dank compost. There’s not a lot of stuff you can add externally to make more potent bud. Resin production and terpenes are mostly a result of genetics but you can provide a high brix compost consisting of decomposed fruit and vegetables which will make for very active compost. Most bagged EWC is from worms fed mostly shredded paper; very little nutritional value. Home made EWC is rich in plant based sugars which makes for high brix compost; it’s for the same reason people add molasses. A supernatural level of microbial activity will not only increase the plants overall health avoid a lot of other issues in your grow like ph lockout. If you don’t already use mycorrhizae in your grow that’s another thing that will assist with absorption of the full range of available nutrients in your mix.

2. I believe proper light spectrum during flower cycle is key for resin production. If you use HPS or MH change out the bulb every 6 months...they lose a small percentage of output every 30 days. Used to run a T5 alongside my hps with full spectrum plus UV bulbs which really seemed to up the frost factor. Have not been running it recently as I have recently upgraded to COB leds. Wanted to see how the Timber redwood did on its own this cycle but was considering putting the T5 back in the flower room to finish some plants I have currently ripening. Adding UV light helps increase resin production but having multiple light sources during warm months can also cause other issues like increased temps.
 
N

Northwood

Well-Known Member
Skylander said:
Keep developing your soil! Neglecting the soil after harvest is where lots of people go wrong. Continue to feed your soil and continue to establish a dense cover crop if youre doing No-till and it will get better every cycle.
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It's hard to do no-till indoor organic without doing that, so the cycling of nutrients needs to be continuous. Flowering plants need less nitrogen than in veg, but nitrogen is priceless and you don't want anything unused escaping up your exhaust vent in the air. Damn you N for being so volatile! So a cover crop indoors will sequester that unused nitrogen, and make it available later when your next cycle is in fast vegging mode and wants it the most.

So yeah, that's right for us no-till growers who are allowing our plants to get whatever amount of nutrients they want at whatever time they want it. Happy healthy plants produce more dankness IMO.
 
FRICKITYFRICKTYFRESH

FRICKITYFRICKTYFRESH

Well-Known Member
Richard Drysift said:
1. Dank compost. There’s not a lot of stuff you can add externally to make more potent bud. Resin production and terpenes are mostly a result of genetics but you can provide a high brix compost consisting of decomposed fruit and vegetables which will make for very active compost. Most bagged EWC is from worms fed mostly shredded paper; very little nutritional value. Home made EWC is rich in plant based sugars which makes for high brix compost; it’s for the same reason people add molasses. A supernatural level of microbial activity will not only increase the plants overall health avoid a lot of other issues in your grow like ph lockout. If you don’t already use mycorrhizae in your grow that’s another thing that will assist with absorption of the full range of available nutrients in your mix.

2. I believe proper light spectrum during flower cycle is key for resin production. If you use HPS or MH change out the bulb every 6 months...they lose a small percentage of output every 30 days. Used to run a T5 alongside my hps with full spectrum plus UV bulbs which really seemed to up the frost factor. Have not been running it recently as I have recently upgraded to COB leds. Wanted to see how the Timber redwood did on its own this cycle but was considering putting the T5 back in the flower room to finish some plants I have currently ripening. Adding UV light helps increase resin production but having multiple light sources during warm months can also cause other issues like increased temps.
Click to expand...
I'm actually building my first worm bins next week.
 
Skylander

Skylander

Well-Known Member
Northwood said:
It's hard to do no-till indoor organic without doing that, so the cycling of nutrients needs to be continuous. Flowering plants need less nitrogen than in veg, but nitrogen is priceless and you don't want anything unused escaping up your exhaust vent in the air. Damn you N for being so volatile! So a cover crop indoors will sequester that unused nitrogen, and make it available later when your next cycle is in fast vegging mode and wants it the most.

So yeah, that's right for us no-till growers who are allowing our plants to get whatever amount of nutrients they want at whatever time they want it. Happy healthy plants produce more dankness IMO.
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Absolutely...I was meaning to place emphasis on soil maintenance between grows. Maintaining optimal moisture in the soil to keep those dry amendments breaking down, IPM measures,etc. I just brought this up because I made these mistakes when I first started. I didnt worry about the soil until I needed it and found myself playing catch up. Terps and resin production are the results of good genetics, environment and in this case organic soil with proper CEC. He will never unlock the true potential of his soil without proper maintenance. I just dont want to see him in the hydro section complaining about how soil sucks! :D:D:D:D:D
 
OrgrO

OrgrO

Well-Known Member
I use sulfur to enhance terp production. I use Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) last few weeks of flower and/or top dress with fast acting sulfur or gypsum (calcium and sulfur)
To boost frost I supplement UV with full spectrum + UV fluorescent tubes or reptile lamps.
 
FRICKITYFRICKTYFRESH

FRICKITYFRICKTYFRESH

Well-Known Member
OrgrO said:
I use sulfur to enhance terp production. I use Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) last few weeks of flower and/or top dress with fast acting sulfur or gypsum (calcium and sulfur)
To boost frost I supplement UV with full spectrum + UV fluorescent tubes or reptile lamps.
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This is awesome info. thanks so much
 
Oldreefer

Oldreefer

Well-Known Member
After years of growing good quality weed, those who smoke my stuff have been reporting an increased potency...and noticeable frostiness....The only change I've made is a dehumidifier to my tent. After 3 harvests showing the same increase regardless of strain, tells me that environment IS a major factor as much so as genetics.
 
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youraveragehorticulturist

Well-Known Member
It's normal for plants to yellow a little at the end, but maybe, maybe your plant was a little hungry for K near the end. Potassium is supposed to be the "quality element."

I'm trying to find a nice way to do a lower phosphorus, higher potassium late flower feeding. I'm just worried about burning off all my leaves with langbeinite.
 
MustangStudFarm

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
youraveragehorticulturist said:
It's normal for plants to yellow a little at the end, but maybe, maybe your plant was a little hungry for K near the end. Potassium is supposed to be the "quality element."

I'm trying to find a nice way to do a lower phosphorus, higher potassium late flower feeding. I'm just worried about burning off all my leaves with langbeinite.
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I think that some of the yellowing is from being deficient in manganese and is mistakenly diagnosed for low N. You can tell if it's a Mn problem because there will be spots with yellowing.
 
MustangStudFarm

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
FRICKITYFRICKTYFRESH said:
My first fully organic soil grow has come do an end and I'm extremely satisfied with the results. Product is currently curing and smells incredible. Just curious what the best way is to boost terpene and resin production organically for my next run.
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My best advice would be to get a soluble soil test to see if you have any nutrients being locked out. Here is my favorite Soil Savvy: https://www.amazon.com/Soil-Savvy-Understand-Fertilizer-Recommendation/dp/B01GIMOG8A/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-drs2_0?cv_ct_cx=soil+savvy&dchild=1&keywords=soil+savvy&pd_rd_i=B01GIMOG8A&pd_rd_r=36c3670c-d0f1-498d-99b1-d396602c38ef&pd_rd_w=gJMSz&pd_rd_wg=zAAmS&pf_rd_p=f3f1f1cd-8368-48df-ac69-94019fb84e3f&pf_rd_r=47QYTJAGQQRA9W4JT8M1&psc=1&qid=1600207542&sr=1-2-f7123c3d-6c2e-4dbe-9d7a-6185fb77bc58
 
N

Northwood

Well-Known Member
MustangStudFarm said:
I think that some of the yellowing is from being deficient in manganese and is mistakenly diagnosed for low N. You can tell if it's a Mn problem because there will be spots with yellowing.
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Could be, but a shortage of manganese is rarer than unobtainium in even natural, unamended soils. Usually the cause is too high a pH, and interveinal chlorotic symptoms will be there. Kinda like iron deficiency too. Manganese is only party mobile, so you're likely to see the symptoms on new/upper growth as well. A soil test is the only way to tell for sure.
 
MustangStudFarm

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Northwood said:
Could be, but a shortage of manganese is rarer than unobtainium in even natural, unamended soils. Usually the cause is too high a pH, and interveinal chlorotic symptoms will be there. Kinda like iron deficiency too. Manganese is only party mobile, so you're likely to see the symptoms on new/upper growth as well. A soil test is the only way to tell for sure.
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Are you referring to ground soil or potting soil? I would agree that ground soil is abundant in Mn but not potting soil. Here are a few soil tests that I have done over that last couple of years, it's potting soil BTW.
DSC01229.JPGDSC01223.JPGDSC01216.JPG
 
N

Northwood

Well-Known Member
MustangStudFarm said:
Are you referring to ground soil or potting soil? I would agree that ground soil is abundant in Mn but not potting soil. Here are a few soil tests that I have done over that last couple of years, it's potting soil BTW.
Click to expand...
Very interesting. What potting soil was this specifically? They must have actually went to trouble to get it below 0.5 ppm! Lol

I say that because it's pretty damn hard to find anything in nature that contains less than half a part per million of Mn anywhere - certainly not a leaf or any other organic material.
 
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