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Watts are watts, each watt is 3.41 BTU of heat. A 300w lamp (of any type), a 300w computer, a 300w television, etc., will generate the same amount of heat. A 600w LED will produce exactly twice the heat of a 300W HID. The distinction is that LEDs don't waste their wattage budget on IR heat...

2.6+ umols/watt for a current top-shelf LED fixture 1.3 umols/watt for HID Easy math.

An HID bulb is no more natural than a diode. The fact that HIDs produce their light through ionization is irrelevant. LEDs are far more efficient and have a more "natural" spectrum, to borrow a term.

I'd start another seed in case that one doesn't recover. 35c at 35% RH is not ideal, particularly for a seedling. Less temp and more RH would be beneficial. There's no 50w light in existence that's gonna produce 600ppfd at 20"; your measurements are erroneous.

Technology marches on. Current LEDs are ~ 100% more efficient than HID lamps. Unless you need the heat more than the light, an LED is an easy choice. HID bulbs are still widely available, check online.

I'd stick to sticky traps. It seems insane to introduce a noxious pesticide into a grow.

Without a picture, who knows? As a blind guess, "wait a few days" is rarely the wrong answer.

I don't know why your results would be any different. I've used five or six 3lb. bags over the past few years and it's been a consistent issue. It matters not if it's RO or Lake Michigan tap, hot or cold, manual or power mixed, there's always some sediment. It's not an issue for me unless...

Mega Crop is a great value and works as well as anything else I've tried. The only negative is that is NEVER completely dissolves and will muck up a reservoir.

If you can grow veggies, there's no reason you shouldn't have success with cannabis. In fact, most people would be far better served to get growing info from sources other than weed forums. Treat it like a pepper and you'll have few problems. Most cannabis-specific info is completely bogus.

How will a fan help to reduce humidity if the ambient humidity is already 50-70%?

Actually kinda both: One net was left behind from the previous grow, I just slide it up and out of the way until needed. The second net was installed much later. It takes more time to cut the netting than install it with a few zip ties. Come harvest time, the top net can usually be slid up...

No, just a typical hybrid; Bros. Grimm Cinderella Purple. I generally add the trellis netting as needed.

It's a good "problem" to have. A trellis will prevent your buds from flopping over.

Auto's have their niche, but they're a poor choice for a new grower since there's limited time to correct any mishaps. A problem that may take a few weeks to correct for a photoperiod plant can be cataclysmic for an autoflower.

I'm sure it'll be fine, it's a healthy looking plant. It's my understanding that it's beneficial to tear away some of the circling roots to encourage new growth. It'll probably just take a little longer for the plant to adapt to its new pot. Grow bags are better in that regard; the roots get...

Did you prune or tease away the mass of roots circling the solo cup? For a point of reference; I routinely transplant between 1 pint grow bags and fabric pots; it usually takes 3-4 days to see roots poking through the fabric pot. No discernible growth slowdown.

There's no reason to raise the EC based on the size of the pot. The only difference should be fertigation frequency.

Pistol Pistils

It's generally better to put the dehumidifier in the lung room rather than inside the tent. You're environment will dictate how effective a dehuey will be inside the tent.