Aphid? Best way to get rid

Started getting a amphid infestation I believe? What’s the best way to kill them? I’ve been using plant therapy spraying it twice a week to try to contain them and it’s been doing an okay job not good enough tho they are still there. Herd I should try spinosad? I have two rooms indooor good amount of plants.98AA5940-73E3-4C4F-8803-D8FE2D92C259.jpeg
 
I have tried lots of insecticidal soaps all organic but I have found that 3 percent hydrogen peroxide mix in water with a touch of dish soap worked best and set up a few fly traps in grow room to catch any winged adults.
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
Probably get a lot of flak for this but Imidacloprid based products like Mallet 2F T&O are very effective at eliminating aphids. So if I was faced with such a large infestation of aphids and I was in veg (this is the time to do battle) I would use a product like Mallet @ 0.5 mL per gallon as a root drench and foliar application, dip if possible.

The Imidacloprid is bad for bees so I wouldn't advise using it outdoors. I have seen testing results that show the PPM zeroed out by 120 days, not sure how much would be there at 90.

If faced with the loss of a sizable commercial crop there is no time or place for fucking around with half assed solutions as you have for sometime already. If you had treated with Mallet at the get go then the problem would be gone.
 
Probably get a lot of flak for this but Imidacloprid based products like Mallet 2F T&O are very effective at eliminating aphids. So if I was faced with such a large infestation of aphids and I was in veg (this is the time to do battle) I would use a product like Mallet @ 0.5 mL per gallon as a root drench and foliar application, dip if possible.

The Imidacloprid is bad for bees so I wouldn't advise using it outdoors. I have seen testing results that show the PPM zeroed out by 120 days, not sure how much would be there at 90.

If faced with the loss of a sizable commercial crop there is no time or place for fucking around with half assed solutions as you have for sometime already. If you had treated with Mallet at the get go then the problem would be gone.
Im in week 2 of flowering can I just do foliar sprays with mallet? Or is it too late? I’m using grodans should I still root drench?
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
Im in week 2 of flowering can I just do foliar sprays with mallet? Or is it too late? I’m using grodans should I still root drench?
Probably have residual, not sure how cool you are with that lol. For me flower is always a no go zone for systemic pesticides. Last treatment prior to starting 12/12. Will it still be effective at eliminating aphids, sure. Will there be residual PPM in the product, most likely yes.

If you have winged root aphids then you definitely wanna drench, you could skip the foliar but IMHO you are best with both even though the product is systemic it has a knockdown effect as well.
 
Probably have residual, not sure how cool you are with that lol. For me flower is always a no go zone for systemic pesticides. Last treatment prior to starting 12/12. Will it still be effective at eliminating aphids, sure. Will there be residual PPM in the product, most likely yes.

If you have winged root aphids then you definitely wanna drench, you could skip the foliar but IMHO you are best with both even though the product is systemic it has a knockdown effect as well.
What’s winged root aphids? I think I only see them on the leaves not really in the root areas? Sorry kinda new to treatments for pest. So would you recommend root drenching the plants only? How will the pesticides advance to the leaves where the pest are?
 
Probably have residual, not sure how cool you are with that lol. For me flower is always a no go zone for systemic pesticides. Last treatment prior to starting 12/12. Will it still be effective at eliminating aphids, sure. Will there be residual PPM in the product, most likely yes.

If you have winged root aphids then you definitely wanna drench, you could skip the foliar but IMHO you are best with both even though the product is systemic it has a knockdown effect as well.
also what do you mean the product is systemic and has a knock down effect
 
Probably have residual, not sure how cool you are with that lol. For me flower is always a no go zone for systemic pesticides. Last treatment prior to starting 12/12. Will it still be effective at eliminating aphids, sure. Will there be residual PPM in the product, most likely yes.

If you have winged root aphids then you definitely wanna drench, you could skip the foliar but IMHO you are best with both even though the product is systemic it has a knockdown effect as well.
And I’m using grodans/ Rockwool 6x6 do I just add the product to the resovior and feeed my plants? Or how does the root drench work? How many times do I root drench? Willl my plants be safe? Or should I just leave these plants that are already flowering to flower and keep trying to contain the bugs while I start mallet on the fresh clones that I am vegging right now. Can mallet be added with neuts that are going to be feeding the plants? And also I only see them on the leaves do you think they are attacking my roots as well but I can’t see? Thank you in advance you really are providing great knowledge
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
What’s winged root aphids? I think I only see them on the leaves not really in the root areas? Sorry kinda new to treatments for pest. So would you recommend root drenching the plants only? How will the pesticides advance to the leaves where the pest are?
Root aphids have several stages of life, the first stages are in the roots and when the population is advances you will have winged fliers that spread the population. So if I am dealing with root aphids I need to get them at the source, the larvae. Thats why the root drench for root aphids. Aphids are evil, some species can lay eggs and even give live birth to clones asexually. The imidacloprid is a systemic pesticide so it will spread throughout the plant tissue therefore harming insects that would feed off the plant. It does exhibit a knockdown effect (kills rather quickly on contact) therefore it's best to apply directly where the aphids are present, so a dip and drench combined is the way to go. I saw what appeared to be a winged flier in the picture so thats why I was thinking you need to drench as well as dip, either way the population is advanced if you have those crawlers. Do some research on aphids and see how difficult they can be to remedy. Acephate/Orthene 97 is another product that has proven effective, it's smelly stuff lol. You definitely have a battle on your hands thats going to require something stronger than insecticidal soap. Using a multipronged attack is best when dealing with such an advanced infestation. So read up on the options available and decide what your pest management protocol will consist of.
 
Root aphids have several stages of life, the first stages are in the roots and when the population is advances you will have winged fliers that spread the population. So if I am dealing with root aphids I need to get them at the source, the larvae. Thats why the root drench for root aphids. Aphids are evil, some species can lay eggs and even give live birth to clones asexually. The imidacloprid is a systemic pesticide so it will spread throughout the plant tissue therefore harming insects that would feed off the plant. It does exhibit a knockdown effect (kills rather quickly on contact) therefore it's best to apply directly where the aphids are present, so a dip and drench combined is the way to go. I saw what appeared to be a winged flier in the picture so thats why I was thinking you need to drench as well as dip, either way the population is advanced if you have those crawlers. Do some research on aphids and see how difficult they can be to remedy. Acephate/Orthene 97 is another product that has proven effective, it's smelly stuff lol. You definitely have a battle on your hands thats going to require something stronger than insecticidal soap. Using a multipronged attack is best when dealing with such an advanced infestation. So read up on the options available and decide what your pest management protocol will consist of.
When you say dip and drench do you mean take the grodan cube and dip it in a bucket of the insecticide? I’m using a watering system could I just add it to my resovior with my nutrients and water the cubes? And then foliar spray? Would that work as a dip and drench? Or do I need to dunk the whole plant in the water and cubes
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
When you say dip and drench do you mean take the grodan cube and dip it in a bucket of the insecticide?
Dip = upside down plant submerged in a bucket or trashcan full of mix.
Drench = thoroughly soaking the medium with mix.

A foliar spray is sometimes the best we can do but it's difficult if not impossible to achieve 100% coverage, especially under the leaves where most pests prefer to reside.
 
Dip = upside down plant submerged in a bucket or trashcan full of mix.
Drench = thoroughly soaking the medium with mix.

A foliar spray is sometimes the best we can do but it's difficult if not impossible to achieve 100% coverage, especially under the leaves where most pests prefer to reside.
Do you know if it can be mixed in my resovior with my neutrients and fed to my plants?
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
I would still make sure to drench each site, in the case of root aphids you can often observe them hanging out on the pot rims to avoid the application.
 

Darkoh69

Well-Known Member
Probably get a lot of flak for this but Imidacloprid based products like Mallet 2F T&O are very effective at eliminating aphids. So if I was faced with such a large infestation of aphids and I was in veg (this is the time to do battle) I would use a product like Mallet @ 0.5 mL per gallon as a root drench and foliar application, dip if possible.

The Imidacloprid is bad for bees so I wouldn't advise using it outdoors. I have seen testing results that show the PPM zeroed out by 120 days, not sure how much would be there at 90.

If faced with the loss of a sizable commercial crop there is no time or place for fucking around with half assed solutions as you have for sometime already. If you had treated with Mallet at the get go then the problem would be gone.
Could not be said better :hump:
 
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